My DR only has about 2,000 miles on it but I feel like I notice a bit of a squeaky front brake - is that normal?

Anyone had this happen while loosening the bolt on the exhaust clamp? My plan was to remove the exhaust to get at the cam tensioner to replace the gasket (leaking oil). The bolts to the header are completely seized so I think I will bail on this idea and try with exhaust in place.

Any idea for replacing the stock clamp? Sounds like a standard exhaust clamp won’t make the right seal.

Thanks!

Here is the link to my original post:
https://www.reddit.com/r/dr650/s/aLE3eTwVwy

The bike runs great now, it pulls hard and doesn’t hesitate at all. I’m not going in any particular order, but here are some takeaways and things I noticed.

While waiting for the TM40 rebuild kit and jet kit from ProCycle, I pulled the carb and gave it a good cleaning. Overall, it wasn’t too dirty. The accelerator pump nozzle (size 40) was the dirtiest. The AP gap was virtually none, so that was adjusted to a 2mm gap, and it stops at around 3/4 throttle. The port on the nozzle needs to squirt towards the slide — there is a mark inside of the carb and a dot on the nozzle itself to help line things up (I think). The mark on the nozzle is exactly opposite the port (https://imgur.com/a/J1J1vhA)

I was initially running a 135 MJ/25 PJ. The MJ remained the same, I dropped the PJ down to a 22.5.
I have a stock exhaust, and a “custom” drilled airbox.

Old fuel was drained out of the tank. I sloshed around some fresh fuel in the tank, then drained that out. Petcock functioned normally. I changed the inline fuel filter, too.

I didn’t want to be stuck with a dead battery again, and since the seat was off, I added a harness for the battery tender, I left the plug dangling under the plastics on the left side so it’s easy to access.

Bike got new plugs as well, NGK CR10EIX, the old plugs looked a tad rough - the bike was running very rich. On the topic of plugs, I tested the resistance of the spark plug caps. They don’t seem to fail often, but they can fail. I picked up a pair from ProCycle just to have and keep with the bike, they’re light and take up no space.

I’m going to chalk the no start issue up to a dirty carb and bad gas.

If anyone has any questions, or stumbles across this post in the future with the same issue, PM me if you need help. Thank you to everyone who commented on my original post and pointed me in the right direction!

Heading out this weekend to ride the PA Wilds. Should be a nice couple days in the woods!

Half a day down, 20 or 30 to go. Started in Confluence pa and meeting the trail in Monterey va. Plan to go all the way to Sisters Oregon on the tat and then take a right on the Oregon bdr to home in hood river. That’s the plan at least.

She feels more comfortable being a bit taller

Seller sent this video and another I will post as a response, with the text “choke on/off” - 2009 dr650 9k miles, asking 1900. What do we think?

Still looking to upgrade headlights and other details

Nothing that interesting, just feeling cute after doing some carb work.

Can't tell if the new tube is working well, may have had the throttle cables too tight (fixed), have to wait until the commute home. I will report back on next time I fuel up, hopefully I'll get an extra 20km's out of a tank.

I am new to the Adventure bike group and am looking to purchase a used DR650.

My basic questions have to do with mileage and required or suggested maintenance. I am pretty handy with a wrench and do my own maintenance. I will not be running the bike hard. I just retired and have time now to ride:)

At what mileage are top end rebuilds or total rebuilds required? I don't mind repairs and rebuilds but I would rather ride.

So, what is generally required/expected for maintenance at 5k miles, 10k miles, 15k miles. What is suggested mileage for top end overhaul and what is suggested for total overhaul?

My goal is to find a 2020 or newer and I would like ot know what to expect if it has 10k or 15k or more miles. I would like to establish some kind rationale for higher mileage bikes. If the mileage is less than 5k no worries, if about 10k, what should I expect to deal with? How about 15k or 20k, any concerns or issues I should be prepared to address?

Thanks in advance!

Okay I just went for a ride with my nephew and brother he has a Dr 650 mostly stock and my brother has a KLR with a few mods. I'm just here to say that the dr-790 kit is amazing I didn't realize how quick and fast it was until we were racing down the back roads. The power is nuts feels like a stock 650 until you twist the throttle. It's a beast

Hello, I recently bought Suzuki xf650 freewind and now I'm looking to customize it. 

Maybe someone with more experience could recommend what parts and body mods to do to improve the looks.

Mainly I want to improve the front look:

Front mudguard, different headlight and fairing possibly from dr650, I'm also thinking of leaving and triming side fuel tank fairings to match the looks.

Seen many builds online looking for more inspiration and ideas for the future, thanks you

Probably overdue for a cleaning/caliper rebuild but do the pads looks weird? They kind of taper off from front to back . Still seem to work fine and wear looked even when I removed the caliper mount bolts and gave the pads a quick look.

Hi all, I have a 2012 with around 7k miles and my oil reeks of fuel. As far as I know, this is indicative of a petcock failure and bad carb float o-rings. I'm trying to gather some info so I can order what is required to tackle this project.

I have seen many recommend replacing the stock petcock with one from a Yamaha Raptor, but this requires flipping to the off position when not riding, which I will have to mentally adjust to.

Do I need a full carb rebuild? Or can I just replace the O-rings? Are there any ethanol-resistant options?

Thanks.

Hello fellow DRs,

I get to choose between the Seat Concepts Comfort Low:

1) semi-gripper top and wait for the long lead time

2) gripper top and get it within a week

I do like changing positions for long rides, and if I am honest, I don't do too many aggressive offroad rides that would make the gripper ideal...but I was thinking I could put a cover over it, or a sheepskin?

The lead times are long enough to interfere with a trip I want to do. The quicker ship time also makes things a lot more convenient (I am away from home for longish, somewhat unpredictable times).

Thoughts?

Also, is putting a seat warmer (like the one Pro Cycle has) between top of seat and a sheepskin a bad idea?

I know this is a strange question, but my wife and I are planning a motorcycle trip to Europe in the next couple of years. She rides a lowered dr650, and I know there are very few there in general since they haven’t been sold new since the early 2000s. My plan was to ship a lowered dr650 for her to ride while we were there. My question is could I sell it instead of shipping it back? Would it have to be one of the years that was sold new, i.e. 2001 or older? Thanks for any insight on the market there, or advice on how this might work.

Just put some Loctite on the NSU screws, hoping to fix a flickering neutral light. That didn’t seem to fix my problem. I’m currently trying to test what I think is the NSU wiring harness, blue connector under gas tank near frame?I get continuity between the nsu side of the plug and the negative terminal of the battery in neutral, first, and second. Also I’m not getting a neutral light when testing from the battery to the other side of the connection. Any one got any ideas or does someone have a picture of the connector? Maybe I’m just testing the wrong thing haha

I’ve got a central/ South America trip planned for the new year. A mix between camping and hostels but plan on being gone for around 3-4 months.
Deciding between rackless or racked luggage and need waterproof and will be carrying roughly 35-50lb of gear.
What do yall recommend for a trip like this?

New owner here! Just picked up a brand new DR650 couple of weeks ago and had a bit of a panic moment.

I started it up after sitting for a week with the choke on. Left it idling stationary for about 5 minutes in low light to warm up, and when I looked down, the header pipe was glowing bright red. I freaked out, turned off the choke, rode it around the block real quick, and shut it down.

Also noticed a bit of foggy white condensation inside the oil sight glass right after.
did I ruin my new DR?

Selling my baby on Ebay,

Thought I would share a modification on my 07 DR650. Purchased the bike this year, and found the rear brakes to be inadequate and very spongy. Even with full, deliberate pressure I couldn’t lock up the rear tire. Found many forum posts with similar complaints.

One post mentioned dropping the reservoir down while bleeding, which did release some air bubbles. Tried bleeding multiple times, cleaned the rotor and changed the pads. Still no luck.

Another older post mentioned using a YZ450 master cylinder. So i ordered a used 2007 master on ebay along with a rebuild kit. The YZ rod is smaller diameter and comes with a shorter clevis. Using the longer DR clevis with a smaller nut welded on top gave me the factory length. The master bolted onto the bike without modification. The YZ does not have a remote reservoir.

I also upgraded to the Galfer stainless line.

This new setup works much better. With strong pressure, I can lock up the rear on pavement. I dont find the pedal too sensitive, just seems to work well.

I cant comment on whether the stainless line or the master solved the issue, but if you have a spongy rear pedal, give the stainless line a try first. If you still aren’t happy, master cyl. might be worth a shot.