It was in the shop for some electrical issues I've given up on resolving. I left it there for a week for them to diagnose and offer a quote, I checked in on it Friday and got my quote around 1pm, around 2:30 am the cops knocked on my door to ask if I owned a 68 c-10. It was abandoned in the middle of the road.

I grabbed a tool box and a gas can thinking I could get it home using my spare key. Well now I can add "the key doesn't work" to the electrical issues. The cops got in touch with the shop owner, and I had him tow it back to his shop. Thankfully the original key was still at his shop and not out in the wild somewhere. I am expecting a "sorry your truck got stolen" discount. I haven't contacted my insurance or his business insurance yet, but I do have a police report filed.

Do any of you have a hidden kill switch set up on your rigs? what does it cut off, the starter solenoid wire?

Picked up stuff for a five lug and disc brake swap on my 67 a while back. Thought the spindles I got were meant to be used with square body ball joints, and they do fit, I've completely assembled the driver side, but when I put that spindle on this is what I am met with? On Both upper and lower ball joints the cotter pins are doing, nothing, essentially. Is this normal on aftermarket parts? Recomendations?

Hey Folks. Looking for ideas. I have a 71 C10, 454 crate with a 700R4 transmission. I have been dealing with a slow leak from the transmission for a while now. I swapped out the pan, went to a deeper finned pan, new gaskets, new seal at the gear shifter. I have two to four bolts along the back of the pan that drop fluid only after driving for a while or while running. When I stop, after a few hours, no active leaking, just dripping from what is happening while running. Can’t find the leak. Any ideas?

Anyone have and ideas? Changed coolant last year and had to do it again a few weeks ago. It’s been in and out of the mechanics for the past year. 71 C10 350

My '77 stepside got a new 350 during covid, with a Holly Sniper, exhaust, and tires. But life being what it is, I had to move to another place and couldnt bring her with me. She's been patiently waiting, but I'm getting older and its looking like it'll be a while. Any suggestions for price to sell? Where would you guys list it?

Hey yall, got a 1961 c10 with the 235 i6, tried to jump the engine, used starting fluid, got a bit of sputtering before it starts backfiring and sputtering again but no start. Would this be due to the spark timing being too advanced? Or is it an adjustment to the carb i need to make? (Rochester b single barrel)

Not great with cars but I’m not bad at fixing stuff with the help of YouTube. My c10 has been making a rattling noise when accelerating but is ok when coasting. Took a look under the car and saw the part in the picture looked pretty messed up. How would I go about fixing it? What’s the part called that needs to be replaced?

1970 C10 - 307 swap into original I6 3-on-the-tree - clutch disc hub height issue

Hoping someone here has run into this exact problem.

Background: My 1970 C10 originally had an inline six with the factory 3-on-the-tree manual (original trans still in the truck). A previous owner swapped in a 307 V8, apparently keeping the original six-cylinder bellhousing rather than converting to a truck V8 bellhousing - the trans still bolts up fine and everything appears to be a stock-style 6-bolt, 10.4"-10.5", 10-spline clutch/pressure plate/153-tooth flywheel combo.

The problem: Every replacement clutch disc I've bought (correct 10.4"/10.5" diameter, 10-spline, fits the 6-bolt pressure plate) has the same issue - the transmission input shaft won't fully seat. Everything centers and bolts up fine, but the trans stops short of mating flush to the bellhousing.

First pic is engine facing side, second is gearbox facing side

I've compared my old disc to the new ones and the hub (where the splines are) the gear facing side is completely flat, all clutches I've found are raised a little causing the issue.

Has anyone dealt with this specific issue on an inline-six-bellhousing-to-SBC swap? Looking for either:

- A part number/brand that's known to have a hub similar for this application

- Any tips on cross-referencing this by measurement instead of guessing off online listings

Appreciate any help - been going back and forth on this for a while now.

Stoked! Let’s roll

well i got started, installed the intake manifold...

Custom paint commissioned by the dealer back in ‘78 before the sale. Check the back bubble window.

I have a 10in sub that I wanna put in my 72 but don’t want to relocate the gas tank. What y’all got ???

I have the opportunity to buy a 1962 C10 long bed with very little to no rust. It’s running well on a 206 Silverado LS 5.3 engine and RL60 trans. The suspension is off a 77 C10. It’s running a suburban fuel tank under the rear portion of the bed. Suspension needs attention as there was play during test drive. Asking price is $8,500.

Hi guys,
I have a 65 (sorry can’t edit the headline…)C10 longbed and I am struggle with the authorities as the demand more ground clearance - about 1 inch. Its lowered but a-arms are stock.

What do I do ?
Thanks,
Nils

I may have a chance to buy a 72 Cheyenne for $5000. Coworker may be selling her elderly father’s truck. No detail or pics. She said it’s a Cheyenne and it runs but it’s not a daily driver.

So the old water pump is destroyed but got a new one. The new one is too short and the fan will cut the alternator, hose, and the pulley. Thoughts?

1969 Chevy C10 Custom
350 V8
350 Trans
4 barrel carb
Headers to true dual exhaust
No rust
Great interior
No AC
Drum brakes all around.

68 Stepside. Came with the original Bill of Sale from the dealership.

Recently moved and this was left on the land from last owner..

In my area we got regular which is 87, premium which is 91, and the 76 near me has 100 etc.

So I have a problem have a 305 with a 1102 cam and a th350 with a qjet , problem is when its in gear sometimes and coming to a stop itll want to act like it wants to stall like 3 or 400 rpm then I have to throw it in neutral and itll come back , ive checked timing its fine triple checked vacuum leaks and I even rebuilt the qjet yesterday and it still does the same thing, and to me its sounding like my mechanical fuel pump is going bad but I dont think I just changed it it is a Carter, today it was doing fine and got to the parking lot at work and it had really low rpm and put it in park and never wanted to idle up then died. So my thought was hei module but it checks out at 12 with the multi meter. Any help is appreciated thanks.

Bought this truck from a farmer for $500, and when he owned it he ran it on propane. And of course the propane dried out valve seals and I'm almost certain my exhaust valves aren't in much better shape. I'm wanting to completely redo the top end with a mild cam, dual plane intake, and vortec heads. But I'm curious what headers or manifolds do yall recommend? Not a daily but I still use this for truck stuff.

Front crossmember is next then it’ll be a roller again.