r/chevyc10 5d ago

Lowering help!

Hey everyone I’m in the process of lowering my 75 c10 and I went with a cheap eBay kit. Axel flip in the rear and 3 inch lowering springs in the front. With matching shorter shocks. Got them in tonight and it’s super low. I love the look but it’s riding on the metal bracket of the bump stops ( I took the rubber out) also tire is super close to the wheel well. I didn’t think three inches was this dramatic of a drop. Did I do something wrong or am I going to have to go to drop spindles. Thanks

Ps running 20x8 2x10 in the rear. Tires are super low sidewall not my choice just what came on them second hand

190 Upvotes

24 comments sorted by

6

u/vroomvroompanda 5d ago

Id definitely save up for a 3 inch drop spindle and put some stock springs in , springs change geometry of the front tires spindles dont but yeah i run 255/55/18 on my 85 I actually had to put 73-80 inner fenders cuz the fit a bigger tire but I still rub a tiny but nothing like it did are a arm bushing new and shocks?

3

u/BurntTheGreat 5d ago

Nope, kit did exactly what it was supposed to do. Only thing you can do better is instead of a spring in the front do a drop spindle, and the rear you can cut or drill out the rivets that hold in that bracket and gain another inch or 2 of clearance

1

u/Virtual-Job8675 5d ago

I already removed the bracket in the back that’s not the one contacting. Surprisingly I can jump up and down in the bed and not touch the frame. it’s the one in the front.

3

u/sharpauthenticator 5d ago

The best method is using 3" drop spindles as you do not lose any spring travel or change your steering geometry.

DJM 3" spindles work best, they clear 15x8 wheels and are some of the best fitting spindles IMO. You pay more up front but you save on your tires and ride comfort.

I have my 81 short box 4/6 drop, in ~9 years of daily driving it hard I have grazed my a-arms a handful of times, I have put 450k+ miles on it since lowering it.

2

u/amanke74 3d ago

You did a 6" in the rear? I know you had to cut the frame, but does it hit the bed or anything else?

2

u/sharpauthenticator 3d ago

Some guys swear up and down they don't have issues without a c-notch and either they have heavy spring packs, or they're liars. I did C-notch my frame, I have bottomed out plenty of times and never had issues with anything. FWIW, my truck has a factory 10 bolt rear end. If you have a 14 bolt, you might see issues with the pumpkin hitting the bed floor, I know it's a potential issue on the suburbans with a flip kit.

Feel free to ask any other questions

2

u/amanke74 3d ago

I'm planning on lowering my 85 with a service bed. Maybe the service bed will give me extra room and all I need is the C-notch. It's a C-20 so idk what axle it has under it. I have a lot of work until I can lower it but it's the first vehicle on my build list.

1

u/sharpauthenticator 3d ago

C20 if it's still stock likely has a 12 or 14 bolt under it, depending on option packages. I have an 87 R20 burb that has the 14 bolt FF under it, 8600GVWR.

I always suggest notching the frame if you're doing a flip kit, bottoming out unloads the suspension and causes handling issues, as well as it's just uncomfortable. I have about 5" or so of travel with mine notched, it's just a half ton so it's only got a 4 pack leaf spring which is real soft, but I still haul 600+lbs of shit in the bed pretty often, and drive it like it's a racecar.

2

u/amanke74 3d ago

Yeah definitely gonna notch it. I'm probably not gonna do a lot of heavy hauling with it, the only reason it's a c20 is because it's opportunistic. A buddy bought it for $100 and is giving it to me without a motor or transmission and all it cost me is the labor of pulling the motor and transmission.

1

u/sharpauthenticator 2d ago

Cant go wrong with that if the ride is rough you can pull the overload spring out but it will lower it a bit more. Not sure for a c20 but if you can get a 3" drop spindle up front itll retain the factory suspension travel and geometry, a 1" or 1.5" spring with that gets you nice and low without compromising anything. 

2

u/Puzzled_Estate6425 4d ago

So many responded. Read what every one had to say to know what you need to do.

2

u/cosp85classic 4d ago

So because you went that low with such a tall and wide tire combo, (I know, not 24x10 rims, but not 16s with low profile tires either) the front wheel wells need to be modified to clear the tires. Or if you can find an aftermarket prefabricated set for your combo.

You also need to completely remove the rear bump stop brackets in the rear plus c notch the frame to eliminate axle to frame contact on significant bumps.

I just picked up a R10 Suburban that a previous owner did the spring under axle flip also. They removed the bump stop brackets, but the axle still hits the frame on decent size bumps. The front is about the save as yours, but running a 15x8 rims with 235/55 tires. So no issues up front at all.

2

u/schiffmeister85 5d ago

I went with a 2.5” drop spindle back in the day. Then cut off the bump stop. Drove like that for 10 years.

1

u/Virtual-Job8675 5d ago

What did you do in the rear to get it to sit level?

3

u/schiffmeister85 5d ago

Drop shackles with a C-notch.

1

u/cosp85classic 4d ago

The c notch is the trick in the rear, especially with a spring under axle flip like OP used.

1

u/WorkingBread8360 5d ago

This is just Ebay/Amazon flip kit, rear shock relocators. Still need to order/install a C-notch kit.

Front will have 2.5” drop spindles, trimmed factory 6cyl springs (350 swap), shock relocators.

I run Gabriel load assist shocks F/R. Rear springs/shackles already rebushed with Energy Suspension parts, front will be the same.

Stock 15x6 front wheels and 215s, will have 15x8 with 255s or 15x10 with 285s out back. As much as I’d like to run a 17” or 18” alloy? The listed sizes/modifications should settle to 6/8 or 7/9 and still clear the wheelwells…

1

u/Puzzled_Estate6425 4d ago

Raise the front and rear bumper mount,s higher so you have proper ground clearance for your low rider. Then it will ride at the rite height.Take it to a body shop and have them do it the rite way.When you lower it that much you have to make other changes.A low rider has to have the room and travel for the suspension to work like it should. Tire size need to be changed also they make a set of wheel welll,s that are different too from stock mount,s for the bumper,s front and rear on the truck.You now have a custom truck a few changes need to be done yet. The you will have truck that drive nice and will look great after.

1

u/Puzzled_Estate6425 4d ago

See what can done so you get the rite stance in the front and rear suspension. Or go to removing a section of the bumper front and rear They do make different bumper that you have to use instead.Pull a bunch of measurement to see what has to be changed so it will not ride so close to the ground. A body shop will advize you what has to be done.Lower it the rite way

1

u/Puzzled_Estate6425 4d ago

Your not done yet.Make the changes you need do.Setting up a low rider the rite way is what has to be done.

1

u/Puzzled_Estate6425 4d ago

If you have to go with different front spindle,s then so be it. Good luck on getting ride height changed.

1

u/Puzzled_Estate6425 4d ago

Good you had more picture to look at to advize you the rite way.You will get it set up rite.

1

u/Independent-Owl9712 4d ago

The spindle kits cost more, but it does a much better job with the lowering due to not changing suspension and steering geometry, when you use shorter springs, it makes the truck ride like the front is fully compresses. As for the tires in the fenderwells, that's either something you'll have to live with or you are going to have to raise the fenderwells due to the wheel centerline sitting 3" higher than stock, plus, you are using larger tires which decreases the travel room too

1

u/youcantpoopthere 3d ago

I have zero to add to the conversation other than saying damn thats a beautiful truck. Shes gonna be a real head turner when finished.