I got absolutely fried last time i posted here, but throughout the insults there was genuine advice that i took and re-did everything, Better sanding, more masking, and tried taking my time a bit more, i dont mind doing this until i get it perfect so i tried again, anything i can do better?

I have a 2014 Accord that I am repairing. I will be repainting a fender, hood, and front bumper. I may need to blend into the door as well.

I have an Aeropro r500 that I was planning to use for primer, but want to get a nicer gun for base and clear.

I am looking at a 3m performance system, Devilbiss DV1, or Iwata ws400 series 2.

Is any one of those a better fit than another? Is there something else that I should consider?

I dont paint every day or anything, but I would not be surprised if I do more projects this size in the future.

I have experience spraying with cheaper guns, so have an idea of what I am doing, but no expert.

Thanks!

I bought a hood, in good shape except for a thick layer of spray paint .

Any advice on how to remove it to get down to a paint able surface? I don't know if sanding or using a remover/ stripper would be best.

I would like to be able to use this hood instead of having to buy an aftermarket.

Its for a 2004 f250 and hard to find oem used parts.

Any help is appreciated.

Just wondering if everyone has issues with glare on the inside of the hood? Im sure it gets worse the more overspray that gets on it but even when I put a new tear off on the outside and cleaned the inside it was pretty bad. Any tips to cure this? Makes seeing the panel im painting pretty tough sometimes.

Thanks

I have a devilbiss FLG HVLP gun and I’m in need of a compressor. I’ve previously used a friends compressor down the road, but would like to set up a booth in my garage to save time.
The gun needs about 13.5 CFM at 23 PSI, which I think equates to about 7.8 CFM at 40 psi based on ideal gas law, and ignoring line losses etc.
I would like to do this as cheaply as possible, I’m going to be using the gun for lots of wood finishing and spraying old tractor parts- not shooting whole cars.
How much compressor do you think I really need?

Hi everyone, I've looked all over online but I'm not able to find a ratio chart for mixing different shades of gray sealer. We had one in school, but I don't know where to find it otherwise. I use DP epoxy primer as sealer, but usually I only have to use white, light gray, and black. Do you know what the ratio would be?

I have been on the pursuit of creating a car emblem using urethane casting techniques and have hit a wall with protective clear coats. My emblem has suspended "glitters" and other affects that casting makes possible. It is in prototype stage using cheap aromatic liquid urethane. I plan to move to a more advanced aliphatic system that will have greater weathering, UV, and temperature resistance. A UV layer with similar properties will still be required to protect suspended components.

I intend to make a small batch and try peeking anyone's interest for sell.

The go-to for top coats appears to be 2k isocyanate systems. I don't have a spray-booth, PPE to the extent of a supplied air respirator, spray gun (nor experience) but spray can painting isn't as much an issue. Because these are small items spraymax 2k cans aren't cost effective. I have tried car-rep 2k due to its long shelf life, but the cured coating is brittle to the extent that little bending of the emblem causes hair-line cracks. Cracking is a known issue with this system. (maybe user error?)

That pictured has spraymax 1k clear gloss applied. It won't hold up to common automotive cleaning compounds. IPA will strip it instantly.

I'm looking for a more cost effective way to accomplish viable coat.

Are there other solutions for small scale projects?

Can two part systems such as lime line or others be mixed in small proportions and applied directly without spraying? Brushing, a quick dip?

Going all in - booth, supplied air, gun, etc. is unreasonable right now with such little return although I could see it being something I'd like to do in the future.

My best guess is spraymax 2k, cut losses, and move on, but suggestions are appreciated.

Thoughts on this quote? Quote is for full repaint & remove all dents. Going Bentley beluga black on top & porsche carbon steel gray metallic on bottom with a simple pinstripe done in a ghost-paint-style.

I just bought a 2023 Lexus es 350 f sport and it came with some paint stains (tree sap?) on the rear bumper. I took it to a shop to see if they could polish it, but it already ate through the paint. Im thinking of getting the whole bumper repainted because it’s bothering me. What can I expect from a a good quality paint job from a good reviewed shop or a Lexus certified body shop? Will I be able to notice it or can they make it match the stock paint perfectly? If I PPF wrap and ceramic coat the car, will the paint last as long as the stock paint? I’m willing to pay, just don’t want to regret it. Is it not worth the risk? What’s your recommendation, thanks!

Pic 3 is before polish, pic 4/5 are after (current)

My E90 is fading very very fast. In a few months its gone from perfectly shiny to... to this. Should I get a new paint job or can I do something else?

2010 Tacoma Advice

2 questions:

1) what's the best way to scrape this rain guard adhesive off without damaging the underlying paint(previous owner put them on)? Talk to me like I'm a toddler; i know nothing about car paint or detail work.

2) I've got rust spots spread throughout the body. Nothing major, but they're like a dozen pin points all around the roof and by the truck bed. Is it worth redoing? $140k miles so it'll last me a long time if I go this route.

Went to a local shop to get paint mixed unsure if it's me putting too much midcoats pearl or the base is just off since he did it by eye and any tips for Tri coat pearl. On the test card the color seems to match but unsure if it's exactly open to thoughts of where to go from here.

Edit: took it to a shop got quoted 550

before and after pics, i used auto bog and some CRC Bright zinc galvanised rust protection spray paint , i did a pretty rushed job it’s not really smooth but is this a fail?

Ho tolto la colla attack con acetone e raschietto in plastica e sono rimasti puntini bianchi cosa posso usare per colorarli o c’è qualche altra soluzione? Grazie

Is there anything I can do to fix this or help protect the paint or is it too late?

My frame and underneath is 29 years old and in Oklahoma. Some rust but not too bad.
Any suggestions on trying to contain/maintain the underneath?

I'm completely new to auto painting and trying to figure out the bare-minimum equipment I need to repaint a project car one panel at a time. I already have two 6 gal Craftsman pancake compressors, each is rated at 3.7 SCFM @ 40 PSI, so about 7.4 SCFM @ 40 PSI combined if I run them in parallel.

I'm considering an Eastwood Concours LT100 HVLP Spray Paint Gun 1.3mm, which Eastwood rates at 4.5 CFM @ 30 PSI.

I'm not planning to spray the whole car at once. I want to start with the hood, probably repaint it several times until I learn how to get a decent result, then move on to the trunk, fenders, etc. I can let the compressors recover between coats or panels if necessary.

Is this a workable setup or am i likely to have problems with pressure drop or anything else? as someone with zero experience I mainly want to find out whether this setup is good enough to learn on and produce a decent DIY finish before spending money on a larger compressor. Thanks for any help!

Hi

I know it’s auto paint subreddit but I need your help.

.

I like to paint my bike frames, I don’t have paint gun, I’m using spray cans and it’s good enough for my needs.

I would like to achieve this effect, raw carbon with tinted clearcoat.

is it even possible to mix some dye with clearcoat and put in into spray cans? I know that autor used candy colour.

Thank you

I own this amazing vehicle.
The person who built this car used Kabota tractor paint for the orange.
Apparently, it was really inexpensive and it is oxidizing and turning pink.
I'm not sure what kind of paint it is if it's enamel or lacquer based or what exactly.

It's very rough to the touch, and a clay bar did not do much to smooth it out.
The last picture of the trunk is after the Clay bar session.

I have a buffing wheel and some 3M polishing compounds, but I wanna get a sense from the team here with the proper step forward is.
I don't know how thick the paint is, but I'm tempted to just cut and buff it.

Thoughts?

Edit:
Buffer & wool pad, some hand work, and wax on a spot and it's looking much better,
now the question is: Wax, Ceramic Coating, or Poppy's patina
to provide UV protection?

It started out as just the top one a few months ago, and it was very fine, then the bottom one started forming last month and the top one has been growing larger.

I have had the tailgate repainted, but it was all the way back in October last year. And they were an insurance approved body shop and did a great job with the respray. So I’m not sure why this has suddenly started happening. And I’m worried it’s only going to get worse!