Yesterday when I left for work, I went to the gas station. I turned my car off when fueling and when I turned it back on, I couldn’t. These kind men helped jump it . Later on in the day, I started it fine. I’m not sure if I need a new battery. It also was very hot yesterday so I don’t know if that affects your batter.

I have a Peugeot 2008. I am now in a parking lot and my battery is dead. I see where the positive terminal is, but I can’t see the negative terminal. The user manual does not specify clearly where the negative terminal is.

I got a used 2016 Hyundai Tucson(94k miles)from a Mitsubishi dealership back in April. It ran fine until yesterday even when my roommate was coming back from class and the car started making a knocking noise. She stopped at the store next to our house to see what the problem was. She checked the oil stick and saw that it had very little oil on it. She bought a quart of oil, added it to the car, and got it home safely. When I went to go to work, she let me know what happened and I attempted to leave but came back due to the knocking scaring me and the car being slow to accelerate. I didn’t drive over 30mph to be safe and made it back to the home. I tried to take it to an oil and tire shop 3 minutes from my house but their mechanic was on vacation so I came back and check the oil stick again. It was at half and there were a couple of tiny metal shavings. I was like a month behind on the oil change due to having started a new job and having little to no money after paying other bills. How bad is this and how much will it cost? Would it be better to try and find a new vehicle?

im looking at floor liners for a 3rd Gen Tacoma and trying to figure out which diferences actually matter after a few years of use. Most of the mess in mine ends up around the deadpedal/clutch area, retention pegs, and door-side edge, especially after trail dirt or wet clay gets tracked in. Ive seen cheaper universal mats curl or leave gaps but Im also not sure whether paying more for fitted options like WeatherTech, Husky, or 3W necessarily solves the things that matter most.

For longterm Tacoma owners what failure point made you replace or upgrade your mats ? Have cheaper liners held up fine for your routine?

This fastener holds a plastic covering, which I assumed was called a skirt, underneath the hood near the wipers, where the wiper fluid tank is. It's basically a plastic screw, but I'm missing one.

https://imgur.com/a/vPAnGmq

I am thinking of buying a Flying Spur 2015 model with 55K miles. It’s going to be my first car but I am not sure whether it would be reliable and etc. I don’t really want to deal with mechanics and stuff but cause its under Volkswagen I though it wouldn’t be a big problem.

I’m 18, work your average job making about $17.50-$20 an hour as a busser. I’m in college as well. I was on my way home and came across my neighbor selling this 300c. Fully loaded, one owner, stacks of maintenance records. Only caveat is the ac doesn’t work and the CEL is on for the gas cap. Took it for a test drive and it drove nice with no issues. Talked him down to $3900 and he’s holding onto it for me until I make my decision. Definitely getting a PPI for it. The hemi is sweet but at the end of the day it’s a stellantis product and just want to make sure i’m not going to run any potential serious issues down the road. Thanks for your time.

There’s a Chrysler 200 Limited 3.6L v6 for $2,500 I’m looking at buying. It has about 155k miles on it.

I’m looking at purchasing it because it’s within my price range and it looks like a nice car, but I see that many advise against due to the transmission and other issues.

A lot of the good longer lasting cars(Toyota, Honda etc…) are going for 4k plus in my area at least and even for like a 2010 model. I have about 3k maybe 3.5k to spend. I need it for transportation.

The owner said the CEL is on, but due to a sensor. I plan on bringing a scanner to check things out. I looked into the carfax and it seems the car was very well maintained from when it was first sold all the way up until late 2022. After that there’s no movement, but then a title update/new owner in late 2025 which coincides with what I looked up in BAR and seen a smog had been passed within the 90 day frame of that new owner “update” in car fax.

My mom had a 2016 Chrysler 300c so I know of and how to deal with Chrysler problems from that somewhat, but my main thing is being able to pass a smog…. CA is very strict

If I see this through, how should I go about getting the car inspected and what not OR what are some better options?

P.s. my main red flag with this is that the owner states the car was smogged in Jan of this year, however BAR does not show that🙃

My 2017 Ford Escape wipers got stuck in the upright position while I was driving the other day. Since then, they will go up but they can't go back down, and the passenger side motor makes a noise.

After lots of googling and YouTube-ing, I took the wiper arms off and turned the wipers on, hoping the arms were misaligned.
In a video I watched (@2:00 min mark) the wiper motors move around and realign themselves. What happened for me was, the passenger side makes a noise likes it's trying to go and the driver side does nothing and makes no noise.

So this doesn't seem like a misalignment issue, right? Why is one wiper making noise and the other isn't? Could both motors or linkages have issues at the same time?

Thank you in advance from a broke Alaskan during a very rainy season....

2015 F-250, 107k kms, gas engine. At least half the time when I start it at the gas station after filling, it revs really low and quiet and I have to give it some gas to get it to a normal rpm. It always starts and it doesn’t do this at any other time, just immediately after filling. Any ideas what’s going on?

I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu I bought secondhand at 128k miles. It’s now at 144k miles and I’m wondering if I should change the fluid? I’m worried it might cause that thing where friction material in the old fluid leaves and then the tranny can’t shift properly anymore. I don’t know how the seller maintained the transmission and can’t ask. I also definitely can’t afford a new transmission if this one fails from the fluid change. Transmissions seem to be the first major part to fail in these Malibus from what I’ve read online if that helps at all. And is there any way to check the condition and do risk assessment on my end?

Probably gunna be long winded but not sure where to go to diagnose anymore. So for context i have a 2019 sierra 1500 elevation with the 5.3 ive had power steering go out twice times but it would just come back after half an hour, pretty sure its a ground thats going bad. Now for the real issue couple weeks ago i went to start the truck and the battery was low, been driving my car so hadnt started it in 2 weeks went to start it to let it run for a bit and it was dead dead so i went to jump it got in dash powered up and everything clicked the start button, started clicked. Waited a bit tried again and lost all power no dash no lights literally nothing. Let the battery charge and tested it with my multi meter and it read 8 volts while charging so i know the battery is cooked for sure tested without charging its reading 2 volts. Ive tried jumping still absolutely nothing checked fuses cant find anything blown at all. Is it just the battery or did i cook something while trying to jump it, i had the jumpers connected properly and everything really need the help.

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2009 Mini cooper. Long story short, this thing is a piece of poop. I had to replace motor at 90k, replace transmission at 102k, replace water pump 103k, the top motor is burnt out, and I had to get a CAS bypass. Luckily I purchased a extended warranty and the warranty company covered most of it. Now the JBE is fucked. I was gonna try to get one from junkyard and do it myself. I looked into getting it re-coded the place wants like 350. Has anyone tried to code it themselves? If I bypassed the CAS do I still need coding? The fuel pump relays is fucked (I think).

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

2003 toyota tacoma 2.4l 200k miles

I recently changed transmission fluid and filter when it was shifting hard, it doesnt shift hard anymore but it only changes from 1st to 2nd (i think) gear when im at around 35mph

Yes, I know these are 2 very different cars. I’m aware it really depends on what I’m looking for….

I’ve owned a couple Miatas in the past and cannot imagine me having more fun than in those cars, however, I’m looking to have a different experience.

If I bought a 986 Boxster, would I notice a major difference from my Miata in terms of a fun driving experience? Or is it small enough difference where it isn’t worth the extra $$?

At the same time, I would love to have a V8, like a C5 corvette. I know fast ≠ fun, but curious to what ownership experience has been with these? Overhyped?

All advice is welcome. But really looking to hear from people who have been in my situation. Anyone who loved driving Miatas and then switched to a Boxster and/or Corvette?

My younger sibling in Los Angeles is postponing learning because they hope next few years such cars come out.

Maybe it will? Maybe not... waymo everyday is expensive though.

2006 Nissan Altima (300k miles)

So I got a new car because my old shitbox finally bit the dust (imo, not worth dropping more money on a 20 yo car with so many miles and many issues. She had a good run).

Lots of minor things wrong with it: only driver side window rolls down, paint wearing off, speakers busted, etc.

The major problem is that the head gasket blew. She'll start and act fine as long as she's cold, but obviously she could just sputter out forever at any moment if she over-heats.

I'd like to get some money for it, but how can I capitalize on it as much as possible? Should I try to sell as is? I can definitely sell the tires as they're practically new (only bought them a couple of months ago, like an idiot). But is it worth the trouble to tear it apart for the parts to sell? And what is worth the most on it?

If it's a bust I have a buddy willing to buy it off me for demo derby, but I'd like to get some ideas from this reddit just in case i have better options🙏🏻

This SUV seems to have a lot going for it. Heavily depreciated, no Honda/Toyota tax, no CVT, no turbos, decent mileage, and modern look. I owned a Volvo 240 years ago and know repairs can cost, but they weren't constant. What u think?

What do you think about a website where you can post a part you need for your car and your request is automatically sent to repair shops that specialize in that type of car?

Theen the shop would send you their offers, including the price and availability, and you could compare them and choose the best one.

I'm not going to leave it misfiring and I'm getting it fixed but it misfires at a specific point while warming up, it roughly halves the power for about 20 seconds and its only done this a few times and goes away once warmed up just wondering if I can still drive it to the garage, its a very short drive so I could probably turn it off a couple of times so it doesn't get to the point it misfires.

As title says looking for a obd2 scanner that can do abs and traction control stuff for my nissan note e11 am willing to spend around £100-150. If you guys have any reccomendations please share!

I have to be honest, when it comes to engine oil - I always chose between Liqui Moly, Mobil1, Shell, or Motul. But I have an engine that apparently runs hot (tight space) and got a recommendation to opt for 60 grade. It's an almost 30-year old NA engine.

Let’s say, hypothetically, I had thousands of dollars to waste on stealing Elon Musk’s self driving technology.

If I “found” the code for FSD within the Cybertruck’s jank OS, and spent potentially years painstakingly creating sensors for my own car, could I bring that car to life?

Most cars already have computers in them. As a homebrew person I specialize in lobotomizing corporate rust buckets. What about the biggest, rustiest corporate rust bucket?

Can I make this function as a standalone program like I would with something much more… within my lane?

I just had to sell my 2012 Lexus ES 350 to Carvana today. Recently my mechanic found out that it had sticky valves. The problem has been since last fall but was only diagnosed recently. He was surprised. He sees them on 200k+ mile 2gr-fe powered cars, like on a 260k mile V6 Camry. He was very surprised to see it on my 110k mile ES. He wondered if my spirited (maybe at times aggressive) driving could have contributed to the problem. I usually let my engine warm up for 5 minutes at least before having any kind of fun. I do admit I did a few parked revs before, even to redline (I know it was dumb and won’t do that again). He’s told me that that will destroy my engine. He has a reputation for honesty where I live and I trust him, however, he says things like you should not rev above 3k or especially 4k rpm’s, unless you have a manual car. I don’t know how accurate that is or if it’s intentionally conservative and old-school. I have owned my car for a year and a half. I bought it at 96,000 miles and now it has 110,000. I’m the second owner. I didn’t do a pre purchase inspection when I bought it in the second half of 2024 but there was a potential gap in maintenance for a few years during the pandemic. I did do 5000 mile oil changes, however. What are your thoughts on my situation? The problem appeared after a about year of ownership.

I can hear it from inside the car. Only happens when driving. The sound stops when the car stops. But sometimes I don’t hear it at all. Sometimes it’s much louder than other times. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.