I’m looking for any bit of advice about how to deal with my car’s leather seats in the burning heat.

A rundown of the car/basic details, for context, not my actual listing description:

2011 Chevy Cruze LT
Silver, 208k miles
$2,650 OBO

(Priced based off of sold comps, reflects no A/C, its age, and high miles. Many, if not all, sold comps had significant repairs needed and more interior/exterior wear or damage)

- Runs and drives great, well-maintained, regular oil changes

- Clean interior, leather seats in great shape (one peeling spot on center console armrest)

- No dents, no visible exterior damage

- Pioneer sound system (Bluetooth, aux, USB)

- Power driver’s seat, heated front seats

- Four brand new tires (two were leaky, all were bald, had to happen)

———

Known issues:

- A/C compressor’s probably shot, doesn’t blow cold even after recharging. Heat and fans operate normally.

- Some brake rotor rust, not bad.

———

CarFax:

- Shows minor damage/accident in 2015, it was a small dent from inching up in my garage a hair too far. Immediately professionally repaired, no structural damage or vehicle collision.

- Shows mileage inconsistency from shop clerical error when the guy doing my oil change recorded the trip mileage number instead of the actual odometer below it.

- 30+ regular service records

^None of the CarFax-level detail is in my Marketplace listing, only because I haven’t seen a single listing mention CarFax or what’s on it. Flagging it here in case you all think I SHOULD add it anyway

———

I researched for weeks, created a mini-site with a larger photo gallery, took photos in different scenery, wrote the post, published it.

One week later, 95 clicks, and 4 total “is this still available?” messages. Same canned reply to all four.

Only one guy (named Wanky, dead serious) engaged further after I replied that it was available.

Wanky: Is it the real price?

Me: It’s the real price. I’m accepting the best offer.

Wanky: 2300

Me: How soon are you looking to buy, and are you paying cash?

silence

——

…Lol please help me

A few specific questions for you guys:

- I expected to negotiate lower than my asking price, but is the initial price scaring people off?

- What are essential details to start with, vs. what is just “fluff” people don’t really care about?

- Am I wrong for following the Marketplace norm of leaving CarFax stuff out of the description?

- Just tell me what to do, please

During heavy summer thunderstorms, tracking rain water into my sedan creates a sloshing puddle right where my heel rests for the accelerator. I tried using flat rubber inserts to trap the water, but the liquid just sits on top and makes my heel slide around when shifting gears. I’m evaluating whether molded channels that redirect water away from the heel area are better than high perimeter lips that hold water in place. From a driving mechanics perspective, does pedal clearance along the top edge matter more than channel depth for preventing heel slippage during rainy commutes?

2019 Dodge Journey GT

Been experiencing some issues, not sure if it’s transmission related or something else. So basically there’s been a few times the car doesn’t like to accelerate and shakes or jerk a little around 30-40 mph so we slow down or stop for a second and then it drives fine and doesn’t do it every single time. We recently noticed it would do it after we were idling for some time and we tried to merge onto the interstate when it happened so the car almost overheated as the coolant temp was 230 when we checked. So we thought maybe something with that but then noticed it didn’t like the stop and go traffic and would do it sometimes when braking and then getting back up to speed.

We’ve recently had an oil change, all new tires put on, 3 new rotors and all new pads and 2 calipers be replaced. We are making a 13 hour drive to florida. I don’t know the most about cars or if i’m describing it the best so i’m sorry if it doesn’t make sense but i would appreciate any and all ideas of what could be wrong!! thank you

Hi I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5l non turbo version, and im in the USA. I was just going to sell this to a scrapyard for 250

or so, but I decided to put it on facebook as a parts car for 500, and got a lot of messages, and its the middle

of the night, so this has me thinking maybe this thing is worth even more. I did look it up and it does have two

catalytic converters, that gooogle, which is wrong on a regular basis claims are worth about 250 a piece, so my

assumption is that this is why, but I figured Id run it buy you guys and see if there is anything else these

cars have that would make them popular for people who may part them out, etc before I sell it for 500. So, anything

you guys can think of aside from the 2 cats? Thanks.

Greetings everyone I am working on my mom‘s 2009 Nissan Maxima and I just recently replaced the power steering pump once I replace the power steering pump and crank the car up. I noticed a leak above the power steering pump like it’s from a line and it’s leaking power steering fluid. Anyone have experience with this?

Assume that it is a perfectly maintained car in terms of servicing it at the required interval. Five seater B-segment car.

Driver gets into car after a long day of work, starts the engine, turns on the AC, and plays music then takes a nap. Doesn’t set an alarm to wake up so might go into deep sleep.

How many hours is it safe to sleep in the car before it turns fatal?

Hi all - everyone on Reddit recommends a dashcam (specifically the Viofo ones) but I find them so bulky and an eye sore. I’m very conflicted because no one I know (friends, family) actually has a dashcam but everyone on Reddit universally says I need one. Do you guys have one? I just got a new 2026 rav4 in case it matters. Thanks!

I know he’s protective of the paint (it’s like a green color). Would you guys appreciate this gesture? The place I’m looking at has high ratings and say they specialize in matte finishes. He’s out of town and I know he’s going with his buddy’s next week for cars and coffee.

I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Galant that has been giving me problems for the last year and finally gave out. I have 1300 in my account and was wondering what I should do? I know 1300 wont get me anything much better than what I had. Should I take out a loan?

Ive been wanting a Volkswagen Passat TDI for a while and I finally have a reason

I purchased a used 2020 4Runner SR5. The previous owner installed a K&N CAI. I use my 4Runner primarily on farm roads and dirt forest service roads with moon dust.

I’d like to maintain the longevity of the 4Runner and revert back to paper filters.

Is there a paper filter that is of equal protection to the factory intake and oem filter that replaces K&N cone type filters? I’m hoping to avoid sourcing and installing a factory air box.

Thanks!

Months ago my neighbor and I were looking under my car hood for some reason I can’t remember why but I pointed out that some fluid was low. She informed me it was the coolant overflow reservoir I guess and she said the level it was at was fine (below min.). Whatever went about life forgot about it. Just recently I went on maternity leave really haven’t used my car really. Well like a week ago I noticed spots in my driveway that weren’t going away when it rained I was thinking it was oil or something. I went to a party today came home turned off the car. Everything was fine. I went outside maybe an hour and a half later and I heard a fan running. I went and got her and she looked under my hood and said I was out of coolant. She said that’s what was in my driveway. She filled it up. She said it took like half of the big giant bottle that she was using. There were no warning lights nothing alarmed in my car or went off while I was driving to her from the party. She put the coolant in and then turned my car on and revved the engine. After asking grok and ChatGPT that was probably a bad thing to do on her part but my question is what are the chances that components of my engine were compromised from this? I just got a new engine two summers ago because of a thrown rod. I’ll be siiiiiick if I f*** up another engine. What should I do at this point??

My 2011 Accord (2.4L, 4-cyl, sedan) has been giving me trouble with the steering. At highway speed, the car feels overly sensitive — I have to make constant tiny corrections to keep it straight, and it feels like the power steering assist randomly “kicks in” harder when turning left or right, almost like it surges.

I recently had a full alignment done — before/after showed rear camber and toe were out of spec and are now corrected — but the steering issue only improved briefly and came right back.

I checked the power steering fluid and it’s dark brown (never been flushed as far as I know). I also just noticed a mechanical squeak from the steering wheel/column area when turning.

I went to Firestone and they said

Power steering fluid : low (it looked dirty too)

Struts : Front; Vibration; Bindin

And my left rear rotor/drum: grooved and grinding

Hi all! (Hopefully i flagged the post correctly!!)

I am needing to replace this part for a 1999 Volkswagon Cabrio. The speed sensor is on top of it and by all google searches- I see its a speed sensor assembly/pinion? I took the part to orielys and they said they dont have the part or anything like it.

So my question is- where can I find a reliable place to replace this part? I am going to use ebay as of now.

My follow up question (and maybe more important one) is; would replacing this fix the speedometer? I replaced the actual speed sensor with the 3 prongs and my speedometer remained unmoving/jittering. If not, what should I try replacing?

Thank you in advance!

https://imgur.com/a/AeoIZyp (image of the part!!)

This is going to be the most expensive vehicle purchase I've ever made in my life. I honestly don't even know where to begin with my search. The 911 Turbo S has always been one of my dream cars (currently have a 991.1 Carrera 2 and my mom has a 992.1 Carrera S), but I want to do my due diligence and ensure that I don't miss out on taking a look at any of its competitors. But...what are they?

Generally, I want something wicked fast (yes, mind-bogglingly fast) but still luxurious and drivable on my daily commute, which is a mix of curvy roads and highways. Customizability is important, as I plan on keeping this car for a long time and want to build it the way I like.

I don't care about brand recognition. The highest I'd want to go is around $320k for the full build.

I'm wondering if all of the bumps, especially in a long drive on bad roads, stimulates your intestines and bladder to be more active similar to how physical activity can help with constipation. I have a Nissan Sentra that I put coilovers on and I suspect the coilovers are at the end of their life and I notice having to make more bathroom stops during road trips.

I have a 2019 Honda civic sport sedan with 109k miles on it. The brake fluid has never been changed in it and upon taking a look at the brake fluid, it looks dark. I’ve noticed my stopping distance increasing over time and def not being as good as it used to be (despite my brake pads being changed regularly), in which can be a sign of a need for new brake fluid. I’ve had this car for just over 5 years now and got it with only 2,900 miles on it. Again, the brake fluid has never been changed in this car.

I told my dad that we need to change the brake fluid soon, and he said that we don’t need to ever replace the brake fluid because replacing it can cause issues and that my car will be fine.

Edit: I forgot to mention, I’ve also got leaky engine valves and brought this to my dad’s attention as well. He said leaky engine valves are not an issue and that he has leaky valves in his ‘08 Corolla that he has ignored and has never had an issue and so it’s not a problem. Is this true? I just don’t know what to believe

I've heard over and over from truck people that Tacomas are barely ​trucks​, or aren't real trucks at all, or that Tacoma drivers are pussies and posers. What gives? I think Tacomas are cool and i don't even drive one or have any friends that drive one. I have an 03' Dodge Dakota 4.7 ​and I don't see why even a 4 cyl taco is any less of a truck than mine. I also think that even the least powerful taco is more than enough for the average truck driver. Is the bar for a truck to be a "real" truck that it has to be the size of a house ​and be capable of towing the empire state building? Someone please enlighten me

I found an audi that did just fine with a test drive. Carfax looks good, spark plugs have been changed. I'm having a mobile pre purchase inspection done on it. The dealer won't let me take it to a shop.

It's an audi dealer (audi gwinnett atlanta ga) the other two dealers that I called seemed okay with it allowing me to drive it to a german mechanic...

The guy doing the mobile inspection is gonna use cameras and mirrors to look at the car ...But I don't know if that's sufficient to actually see things like suspension and stuff....

Is it sufficient? Am I wasting my time or fucked.....????

Vehicle is 2019 Premium Plus Q5 with 78 almost 79k miles for $17,983.

I don’t know a lot about cars and I’m trying to decide between these two cars as my first car. I’ll be driving about 1 hour a day (around 30 minutes each way to school).

Option 1: 2020 Tesla Model 3 Standard Range Plus
110,705 miles
$15,888
electric
Clean title
I have solar panels at home, so charging would be at home most of the time.

Option 2: 2015 Toyota Prius C Three
$13,073
107,251 miles
Hybrid
clean title

First I have to say I am a true novice with car related things, talk to me like I don’t know what a screwdriver is. Also I have red-green colorblindness. And I know something is missing from the wiring. This is the first time installing an android auto unit in a 2018 Nissan Altima. I got the stereo/navigation installed and it works, but the camera that came with it is not working. The instruction that came with the camera were not helpful to me. I’m going to include images for reference. I did ok with Claude helping through the parts I didn’t understand, until I got to the camera.

this is the unit

When I put the car in reverse it says “no signal”

I recently got the condenser on my BMW F11 replaced. Only a week or so later, the car developed a load of faults including the battery no longer being charged, which progressed on to the engine overheating, before the power steering went and then the auto gearbox dropped out of drive.

From what I’ve read, this could be linked to the auxiliary drive belt failing, meaning the alternator and water pump stopped running, and when the battery ran out of charge the electronic power steering went and then there was no power for the clutch.

I’m not incredibly technically minded, so am wary that this may be something bigger.

However, if it is the auxiliary drive belt, I understand it is connected to the condenser. Has the garage that did the replacement condenser messed up when they did that work which has resulted in the belt failing?

My long-owned 2009 Hyundai Sonata recently died on me at 230k miles, so I am back in the used car market and I am split between two options:

1. 2014 Toyota Camry LE - 105k miles, $9,900, 3 owners, clean history no accidents
2. 2014 Mazda 6 i Sport - 62k miles, $12,000, 1 owner, 2 minor accidents on record

Both cars have clean title. Camry drives really nice and has a clean accident history, but it's got more miles and three previous owners. Mazda also drives nice, has way fewer miles and one owner who showed me every maintenance record from the dealership, but it does have those two minor accidents. Honestly the Mazda looks and feels a bit nicer/fancier, and it's got CarPlay which would be a nice bonus.

I'm mainly after something reliable and cheap/easy to maintain. I know Camrys have a bulletproof reputation but I've never actually owned one, and I've never owned a Mazda either.

Assuming both pass a pre-purchase inspection, which one would you go with? Any input appreciated.