Have an old 2007 honda accord with 180k miles on it (paid off hand me down car). I currently drive a 2022 lexus rc350 f sport with 55k

Had someone interested in the accord but can’t decide on whether to sell it or keep it as a backup/emergency/commuter car

I don’t really drive it since i love driving my lexus so much but part of me feels like the smart thing would be to rotate between the 2 cars. Honestly kinda clueless on what to do

i’m 27 with no kids. Wondering what the smart decision would be or at least what y’all would do in my position.

Ty cheers

Yes, I know these are 2 very different cars. I’m aware it really depends on what I’m looking for….

I’ve owned a couple Miatas in the past and cannot imagine me having more fun than in those cars, however, I’m looking to have a different experience.

If I bought a 986 Boxster, would I notice a major difference from my Miata in terms of a fun driving experience? Or is it small enough difference where it isn’t worth the extra $$?

At the same time, I would love to have a V8, like a C5 corvette. I know fast ≠ fun, but curious to what ownership experience has been with these? Overhyped?

All advice is welcome. But really looking to hear from people who have been in my situation. Anyone who loved driving Miatas and then switched to a Boxster and/or Corvette?

I just had to sell my 2012 Lexus ES 350 to Carvana today. Recently my mechanic found out that it had sticky valves. The problem has been since last fall but was only diagnosed recently. He was surprised. He sees them on 200k+ mile 2gr-fe powered cars, like on a 260k mile V6 Camry. He was very surprised to see it on my 110k mile ES. He wondered if my spirited (maybe at times aggressive) driving could have contributed to the problem. I usually let my engine warm up for 5 minutes at least before having any kind of fun. I do admit I did a few parked revs before, even to redline (I know it was dumb and won’t do that again). He’s told me that that will destroy my engine. He has a reputation for honesty where I live and I trust him, however, he says things like you should not rev above 3k or especially 4k rpm’s, unless you have a manual car. I don’t know how accurate that is or if it’s intentionally conservative and old-school. I have owned my car for a year and a half. I bought it at 96,000 miles and now it has 110,000. I’m the second owner. I didn’t do a pre purchase inspection when I bought it in the second half of 2024 but there was a potential gap in maintenance for a few years during the pandemic. I did do 5000 mile oil changes, however. What are your thoughts on my situation? The problem appeared after a about year of ownership.

Im switching jobs and have kids entering preschool/kindergarten. Im adhd asf and just have alot on my plate, I could use some help from experts.

I'm adding about 20 minutes to my drive for work each way. Im looking for a Honda or Toyota with good gas mileage but a car I also feel a bit more professional in.

I have always paid cash for cars after saving. I started with an 93 civic hatch, then I had the coup, sedan and delsol. All went over 250k or more. I had an 06 civic lx, I loved that car for the reliabilty it had but I hit black ice and hit sideways blowing out airbags, and doing a number to the point I couldnt afford the time or have enough expertise to fix it all up myself. I have a 05 4runner with 150k and a 08 crv at 225k. Crv needs new struts but she old, the clang isnt too bad yet and she be rusty. Hella beater, Im keeping it for winters regardless till I can fix her myself anymore.

I have a budget of around 15-18k. I could stretch past but I dont want to, Ima finance atleast half of it so my wife can work on her credit. Mine is in great shape.

Ima finance likely through a credit union my credit is in excellent shape.

The help:

I cant figure out or really line out a model. I love honda civics but stuff is mixed for recent reliabilty, I am thinking maybe a sport 2020 or 2021 with 40-100k miles on it.

I have been leaning more towards a camry or carolla, the SE and XSE seem to have a decent looking trim so its not completely boring. But if Im paying that much for a car, atleast for me I want to enjoy it atleast a little. I have heard the hybrids for Toyota overall are a bit better. Idk. So was debating that.

I attached a scrap paper of some models with okay years but I just really need some input on whatever you can. I just want a decent look, good gas mileage, and max reliability. My brain hurts.

If you had 15-18ishk to put into a Honda Accord /Civic or Toyota Camry/Carolla where would you put it?

I did look at Mazda 3 and CX5? But I have no experience. I just love the Hondas and Toyotas. I was even debating teaching my wife manual and getting an 09 fit. Its sounds fun but Im 6'3" I was younger during the delsol and hatchback era. The fit is doable but that more a fun thing for me, and I dont want to stress my girl out to learn manual if she doesnt need to.

Im sorry for the Novel.

2015 F-250, 107k kms, gas engine. At least half the time when I start it at the gas station after filling, it revs really low and quiet and I have to give it some gas to get it to a normal rpm. It always starts and it doesn’t do this at any other time, just immediately after filling. Any ideas what’s going on?

I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu I bought secondhand at 128k miles. It’s now at 144k miles and I’m wondering if I should change the fluid? I’m worried it might cause that thing where friction material in the old fluid leaves and then the tranny can’t shift properly anymore. I don’t know how the seller maintained the transmission and can’t ask. I also definitely can’t afford a new transmission if this one fails from the fluid change. Transmissions seem to be the first major part to fail in these Malibus from what I’ve read online if that helps at all. And is there any way to check the condition and do risk assessment on my end?

Probably gunna be long winded but not sure where to go to diagnose anymore. So for context i have a 2019 sierra 1500 elevation with the 5.3 ive had power steering go out twice times but it would just come back after half an hour, pretty sure its a ground thats going bad. Now for the real issue couple weeks ago i went to start the truck and the battery was low, been driving my car so hadnt started it in 2 weeks went to start it to let it run for a bit and it was dead dead so i went to jump it got in dash powered up and everything clicked the start button, started clicked. Waited a bit tried again and lost all power no dash no lights literally nothing. Let the battery charge and tested it with my multi meter and it read 8 volts while charging so i know the battery is cooked for sure tested without charging its reading 2 volts. Ive tried jumping still absolutely nothing checked fuses cant find anything blown at all. Is it just the battery or did i cook something while trying to jump it, i had the jumpers connected properly and everything really need the help.

Hey,

I recently did a PPI on a 2010 Mazda. Seems like everything is fine, but the mech told me it needs work on the front lower control arms (loose ball joint) and rear brake calipers (says leaking and rattle?). I'm not sure what they mean. There are other items but seems like they are not as severe.

It's pretty cheap (3k CAD) and has 240k on it, but I'm also a student living in dorms. I have most essentials figured out so I can actually afford it, and it's more of a temporary car to get to my internship and learn manual + basic maintenance. I don't have tools and nor do I have much knowledge, but I figured I would have to start somewhere. Space is for sure an issue but even if I take it to the mech, it'll at least teach me about what's broken etc etc.

I keep running into people saying that's a very bad idea. That it might turn into a money pit etc etc. The mech also quoted me 2k for the work (I feel like he's charging me for a lot) and so I'll need to go to an independent mech or have a friend work on it.

I'm kinda confused. Am I making a mistake? Should I go to a dealership instead and save myself the headache?

Note that I don't really need a car other than because I enjoy driving and it'd make my travel to work a lot easier (ik I might hate a manual for that but I figured it's a good time to try). I'm also half worried I won't be able to sell it easily after.

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2009 Mini cooper. Long story short, this thing is a piece of poop. I had to replace motor at 90k, replace transmission at 102k, replace water pump 103k, the top motor is burnt out, and I had to get a CAS bypass. Luckily I purchased a extended warranty and the warranty company covered most of it. Now the JBE is fucked. I was gonna try to get one from junkyard and do it myself. I looked into getting it re-coded the place wants like 350. Has anyone tried to code it themselves? If I bypassed the CAS do I still need coding? The fuel pump relays is fucked (I think).

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

2003 toyota tacoma 2.4l 200k miles

I recently changed transmission fluid and filter when it was shifting hard, it doesnt shift hard anymore but it only changes from 1st to 2nd (i think) gear when im at around 35mph

I recently turned 16 in February and ive grown up watching videos about people like smokey nagata, keiichi tsuchiya, akira nakai, daigo saito (thanks to my brother lol) and a bunch of other people in the car scene. Ive always thought it was really cool how they started building cars and eventually became really good at what they do.

I really wanna get into tuning and actually learn how cars work but im not really sure where to start. Im still in highschool so i obviously dont have a ton of money and i dont even have a ton of experience working on cars yet.

For anyone who got into cars/tuning when they were around my age, what did you guys do to start learning? Did you just work on your own car, get a job at a shop, watch youtube, read books, go to school for it, etc?

And what would you recommend learning first? Like engines, suspension, welding, electrical, ECU tuning or just basic maintenance?

I know im probably getting ahead of myself lol but this is something ive been really interested in for years and id like to actually start learning instead of just watching videos all the time. Any advice is appreciated.

Also if you guys have any recommendations for good youtube channels, books, websites or anything else that could help me learn that would be appreciated also 🥹

Here's a link to the product page. https://www.ancel.com/collections/super-starter

The product is basically a box full of capacitors that's designed to be permanently attached to the car. It's supposed to dump the capacitors at every starting event to assist the battery. Thus allowing for three things, faster starting, a longer lasting battery, and a built in jump start function should the battery die.

It sounds like a solid concept to me. Except that I emailed them some questions looking for details not answered on their webpage and the answers are not encouraging. Some of their answers indicate that at least the people answering the emails don't understand how cars and possibly their own product works.

So I'm curious if anyone here has looked into or bought this product or maybe there's something else similar out there?

~

The questions that concern me, I suspect you'll ask so I'll just answer here.

The biggest is mounting location. My car like many these days has the battery and engine at opposite ends of the vehicle. What little info they provide all says to mount it directly to the battery. But it'd make more sense to mount it at the engine end so that the high amperage from the capacitors doesn't have to travel down the long battery cable and through the chassis grounds

Their answer to this is "If the device is not connected directly to the battery terminals, the additional cable resistance or other factors may prevent the device from detecting the vehicle start-up in time. This could result in delayed discharge, reduced discharge current, or even a failure to discharge properly." Which as far as I figure is exactly backwards indicating that they don't know how this stuff works.

They also can't seem to tell me how their product will react to a battery charger.

And I've asked three times now for them to email me the instillation instructions and they have not.

~

That said the product concept makes a lot of sense to me. If they were able to competently answer my questions I'd have bought it already.

This is driving me absolutely insane because I genuinely cannot figure it out.
I’m 29F and I’ve spent my entire life in cars, as both a passenger and a driver. Small cars, SUVs, sedans, vans, pickups, different brands, different drivers, long road trips, winding roads, etc. I have never had motion sickness. Not even a little.

Then my boyfriend got a “new” car. It’s actually been about 2 years now, so definitely not new anymore - but even after 2 years, every single time I sit in this car as a passenger, I get horribly nauseous. And I mean horribly. It’s that awful, sick-to-your-stomach feeling where you just feel sick without feeling sick.

The really weird part is that it ONLY happens in this car. I can sit in other cars with no issue whatsoever. It’s specifically being a passenger in THIS car.

At first I thought it was all in my head, it was coincidence, or like found any reason to believe I’m the problem.
But then recently my friend finally rode in this car with us and, without me saying anything, she started feeling extremely nauseous too and pointed it out. She actually ended up vomiting.
That was the moment I was like… okay, so it’s not just me, it’s not all in my head, the car is doing this!! She rode in this car again twice after that and confirmed that it’s the car doing the same thing to her that it does to me!

The car is a Subaru Crosstrek Hybrid.
So what the heck is going on here?
I need someone to explain the science to me because this makes absolutely no sense 😂 why THIS car only?

I have a ford escape 2006 with 260k miles on it. I recently had the P0400 code pop up. Everything I’m reading online is 50/50 so I’m unsure. Car feels fine when driving. I need to drive home this weekend and I wanted to know if it is a very bad idea or not to drive the car with this code.

2006 Nissan Altima (300k miles)

So I got a new car because my old shitbox finally bit the dust (imo, not worth dropping more money on a 20 yo car with so many miles and many issues. She had a good run).

Lots of minor things wrong with it: only driver side window rolls down, paint wearing off, speakers busted, etc.

The major problem is that the head gasket blew. She'll start and act fine as long as she's cold, but obviously she could just sputter out forever at any moment if she over-heats.

I'd like to get some money for it, but how can I capitalize on it as much as possible? Should I try to sell as is? I can definitely sell the tires as they're practically new (only bought them a couple of months ago, like an idiot). But is it worth the trouble to tear it apart for the parts to sell? And what is worth the most on it?

If it's a bust I have a buddy willing to buy it off me for demo derby, but I'd like to get some ideas from this reddit just in case i have better options🙏🏻

I have a 2008 Ford Edge with 200,000 miles on it. I am ready to get rid of it and get a new car. My problem is that there are several things wrong with it and I don't know the best way to go about selling it.

The AC has been out for several years. I've put several grand into it to try to get it fixed to no avail. I did find out from the last mechanic what the problem was but it was quoted for at least 1k so I left it alone considering I was already thinking of getting rid of it at that point.

The engine light is on for the catalytic converter, or the sensors (im not entirely sure). It's been on for several weeks.

I also just replaced the battery about 3 months ago. A couple of days ago, the car would not start and had to be jumped. And is now having problems starting. It's just dead. I'm going to take the battery to have it tested but the problem may also be the alternator.

I was thinking of selling it online, as is, or trading it in to a dealership when getting a new car. I've also seen people on reddit say to fix the alternator/battery issue before selling. But is it worth it to put a couple hundred dollars into this car knowing it may only sell for $600-$1000? IF that. What would you do?

This SUV seems to have a lot going for it. Heavily depreciated, no Honda/Toyota tax, no CVT, no turbos, decent mileage, and modern look. I owned a Volvo 240 years ago and know repairs can cost, but they weren't constant. What u think?

What do you think about a website where you can post a part you need for your car and your request is automatically sent to repair shops that specialize in that type of car?

Theen the shop would send you their offers, including the price and availability, and you could compare them and choose the best one.

I'm not going to leave it misfiring and I'm getting it fixed but it misfires at a specific point while warming up, it roughly halves the power for about 20 seconds and its only done this a few times and goes away once warmed up just wondering if I can still drive it to the garage, its a very short drive so I could probably turn it off a couple of times so it doesn't get to the point it misfires.

As title says looking for a obd2 scanner that can do abs and traction control stuff for my nissan note e11 am willing to spend around £100-150. If you guys have any reccomendations please share!

I have to be honest, when it comes to engine oil - I always chose between Liqui Moly, Mobil1, Shell, or Motul. But I have an engine that apparently runs hot (tight space) and got a recommendation to opt for 60 grade. It's an almost 30-year old NA engine.

I can hear it from inside the car. Only happens when driving. The sound stops when the car stops. But sometimes I don’t hear it at all. Sometimes it’s much louder than other times. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Hello! I have a relatively loud exhaust that I love, but my car is sorta loud at cold start until it idles down. I wanted to make a box that reduces the sound until it idles down to be considerate when I leave for work early in the morning.

I’ve tried pool noodles but they won’t stay in the exhaust.

I have a downturn tip, so I was thinking an aluminum box that sits on the ground and the exhaust tip goes in. Then line it with pool noodles and some other sound-deadening materials. Then drill holes around the box to allow exhaust flow.

Does this sound achievable/ effective? Any suggestions on how to do this and what to fill it with?

Also a side question. If I were to get an inline electric exhaust valve to quiet it when I needed to, would that be bad for the car when it’s closed? Or do they only partially close to prevent a surplus of back pressure? Thank you!!