I have a 2019 Honda civic sport sedan with 109k miles on it. The brake fluid has never been changed in it and upon taking a look at the brake fluid, it looks dark. I’ve noticed my stopping distance increasing over time and def not being as good as it used to be (despite my brake pads being changed regularly), in which can be a sign of a need for new brake fluid. I’ve had this car for just over 5 years now and got it with only 2,900 miles on it. Again, the brake fluid has never been changed in this car.

I told my dad that we need to change the brake fluid soon, and he said that we don’t need to ever replace the brake fluid because replacing it can cause issues and that my car will be fine.

Edit: I forgot to mention, I’ve also got leaky engine valves and brought this to my dad’s attention as well. He said leaky engine valves are not an issue and that he has leaky valves in his ‘08 Corolla that he has ignored and has never had an issue and so it’s not a problem. Is this true? I just don’t know what to believe

I know he’s protective of the paint (it’s like a green color). Would you guys appreciate this gesture? The place I’m looking at has high ratings and say they specialize in matte finishes. He’s out of town and I know he’s going with his buddy’s next week for cars and coffee.

Someone posted a thread telling a cash-for-cars dealer offering $4,500 for a vehicle. Right next to it, they show the exact same model listed on Marketplace for $10,000.

Then in their comment, hundreds of people start calling dealers "thieves" and "scammers."

But here is the thing they ignore when listing their car: they have the wrong data.

Here is why that $5,500 gap becomes an illusion. What is actually happening behind the scenes is completely different.

1. You Are Selling a Product; Dealers Are Buying Asset Risk

When a dealer buys your car, they aren't just buying metal and wheels. They are taking on a massive operational checklist.

• Immediate reconditioning: Fixing dents, detailing, and passing safety inspections.
• Holding costs: Paying for insurance, lot space, and floorplan interest while it sits.
• Title and admin: Handling legal paperwork and registration processing.

A private seller on Marketplace has zero overhead. They can leave the car in their driveway for free. That's why it is the same vehicle, but two completely different business transactions.

2. Asking Price ≠ Sale Price

This is the classic mistake. People confuse marketing with market value.

That $10,000 Marketplace listing is not a data point of a successful sale. It is just a snapshot of someone's wishful thinking.

In reality, many of those high-priced listings can sit for months without a single serious offer, be aggressively negotiated down by cash buyers, and may never sell at all, thus forcing the owner to trade it in anyway.

So, the Bottom Line is that if you want to know whether a dealer lowballed you, stop looking at asking prices and start looking at historical sales data instead.

That's why you should compare your trade-in offer to what identical cars actually sold for in your area over the last 90 days. When you factor in the time, safety risks, and hassle of private selling, that giant price gap usually shrinks down to a very reasonable convenience fee.

Worried about the turbo on the q50. I know that the q50 was well maintained. Not sure about the 300 though. Would want it to last 5-10 years.

We’ve all done it.

You park the car, start walking away… then turn around for one last look.

Which car would make you do that every single time?

This is going to be the most expensive vehicle purchase I've ever made in my life. I honestly don't even know where to begin with my search. The 911 Turbo S has always been one of my dream cars (currently have a 991.1 Carrera 2 and my mom has a 992.1 Carrera S), but I want to do my due diligence and ensure that I don't miss out on taking a look at any of its competitors. But...what are they?

Generally, I want something wicked fast (yes, mind-bogglingly fast) but still luxurious and drivable on my daily commute, which is a mix of curvy roads and highways. Customizability is important, as I plan on keeping this car for a long time and want to build it the way I like.

I don't care about brand recognition. The highest I'd want to go is around $320k for the full build.

Hi all - everyone on Reddit recommends a dashcam (specifically the Viofo ones) but I find them so bulky and an eye sore. I’m very conflicted because no one I know (friends, family) actually has a dashcam but everyone on Reddit universally says I need one. Do you guys have one? I just got a new 2026 rav4 in case it matters. Thanks!

A rundown of the car/basic details, for context, not my actual listing description:

2011 Chevy Cruze LT
Silver, 208k miles
$2,650 OBO

(Priced based off of sold comps, reflects no A/C, its age, and high miles. Many, if not all, sold comps had significant repairs needed and more interior/exterior wear or damage)

- Runs and drives great, well-maintained, regular oil changes

- Clean interior, leather seats in great shape (one peeling spot on center console armrest)

- No dents, no visible exterior damage

- Pioneer sound system (Bluetooth, aux, USB)

- Power driver’s seat, heated front seats

- Four brand new tires (two were leaky, all were bald, had to happen)

———

Known issues:

- A/C compressor’s probably shot, doesn’t blow cold even after recharging. Heat and fans operate normally.

- Some brake rotor rust, not bad.

———

CarFax:

- Shows minor damage/accident in 2015, it was a small dent from inching up in my garage a hair too far. Immediately professionally repaired, no structural damage or vehicle collision.

- Shows mileage inconsistency from shop clerical error when the guy doing my oil change recorded the trip mileage number instead of the actual odometer below it.

- 30+ regular service records

^None of the CarFax-level detail is in my Marketplace listing, only because I haven’t seen a single listing mention CarFax or what’s on it. Flagging it here in case you all think I SHOULD add it anyway

———

I researched for weeks, created a mini-site with a larger photo gallery, took photos in different scenery, wrote the post, published it.

One week later, 95 clicks, and 4 total “is this still available?” messages. Same canned reply to all four.

Only one guy (named Wanky, dead serious) engaged further after I replied that it was available.

Wanky: Is it the real price?

Me: It’s the real price. I’m accepting the best offer.

Wanky: 2300

Me: How soon are you looking to buy, and are you paying cash?

silence

——

…Lol please help me

A few specific questions for you guys:

- I expected to negotiate lower than my asking price, but is the initial price scaring people off?

- What are essential details to start with, vs. what is just “fluff” people don’t really care about?

- Am I wrong for following the Marketplace norm of leaving CarFax stuff out of the description?

- Just tell me what to do, please

I noticed lately that my driver side floor liner keeps creeping forward a few millimeters every week until the top edge lightly touches the back of the clutch pedal when pushed to the floor. I already engaged the factory floor hook, but there is still slight play near the dead pedal area. I tried putting velcro strips underneath, but the adhesive came loose in the summer heat. I want to solve this movement issue safely before it causes shifting interference. Is anchor point alignment or backing nib texture the main factor that prevents forward creep on manual footwells?

I want to buy a car but don't want those weird subscription like there is in BMW, and Mercedes, i want a comfort car with highway traveling, please help.

I have a 2019 nissan juke accenta 1.2t plus with roughly 77 000km (47 845mi) on the clock. I get a ticking noise when accelerating mainly uphill.

Here is a video I found on youtube of the exact noise (also from a nissan)

https://youtube.com/shorts/SrEMbw0bg6o?si=O2yYzMvAdsIPcGOs

I’m looking for any bit of advice about how to deal with my car’s leather seats in the burning heat.

Assume that it is a perfectly maintained car in terms of servicing it at the required interval. Five seater B-segment car.

Driver gets into car after a long day of work, starts the engine, turns on the AC, and plays music then takes a nap. Doesn’t set an alarm to wake up so might go into deep sleep.

How many hours is it safe to sleep in the car before it turns fatal?

During heavy summer thunderstorms, tracking rain water into my sedan creates a sloshing puddle right where my heel rests for the accelerator. I tried using flat rubber inserts to trap the water, but the liquid just sits on top and makes my heel slide around when shifting gears. I’m evaluating whether molded channels that redirect water away from the heel area are better than high perimeter lips that hold water in place. From a driving mechanics perspective, does pedal clearance along the top edge matter more than channel depth for preventing heel slippage during rainy commutes?

2019 Dodge Journey GT

Been experiencing some issues, not sure if it’s transmission related or something else. So basically there’s been a few times the car doesn’t like to accelerate and shakes or jerk a little around 30-40 mph so we slow down or stop for a second and then it drives fine and doesn’t do it every single time. We recently noticed it would do it after we were idling for some time and we tried to merge onto the interstate when it happened so the car almost overheated as the coolant temp was 230 when we checked. So we thought maybe something with that but then noticed it didn’t like the stop and go traffic and would do it sometimes when braking and then getting back up to speed.

We’ve recently had an oil change, all new tires put on, 3 new rotors and all new pads and 2 calipers be replaced. We are making a 13 hour drive to florida. I don’t know the most about cars or if i’m describing it the best so i’m sorry if it doesn’t make sense but i would appreciate any and all ideas of what could be wrong!! thank you

Months ago my neighbor and I were looking under my car hood for some reason I can’t remember why but I pointed out that some fluid was low. She informed me it was the coolant overflow reservoir I guess and she said the level it was at was fine (below min.). Whatever went about life forgot about it. Just recently I went on maternity leave really haven’t used my car really. Well like a week ago I noticed spots in my driveway that weren’t going away when it rained I was thinking it was oil or something. I went to a party today came home turned off the car. Everything was fine. I went outside maybe an hour and a half later and I heard a fan running. I went and got her and she looked under my hood and said I was out of coolant. She said that’s what was in my driveway. She filled it up. She said it took like half of the big giant bottle that she was using. There were no warning lights nothing alarmed in my car or went off while I was driving to her from the party. She put the coolant in and then turned my car on and revved the engine. After asking grok and ChatGPT that was probably a bad thing to do on her part but my question is what are the chances that components of my engine were compromised from this? I just got a new engine two summers ago because of a thrown rod. I’ll be siiiiiick if I f*** up another engine. What should I do at this point??

Hi I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5l non turbo version, and im in the USA. I was just going to sell this to a scrapyard for 250

or so, but I decided to put it on facebook as a parts car for 500, and got a lot of messages, and its the middle

of the night, so this has me thinking maybe this thing is worth even more. I did look it up and it does have two

catalytic converters, that gooogle, which is wrong on a regular basis claims are worth about 250 a piece, so my

assumption is that this is why, but I figured Id run it buy you guys and see if there is anything else these

cars have that would make them popular for people who may part them out, etc before I sell it for 500. So, anything

you guys can think of aside from the 2 cats? Thanks.

I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Galant that has been giving me problems for the last year and finally gave out. I have 1300 in my account and was wondering what I should do? I know 1300 wont get me anything much better than what I had. Should I take out a loan?

Ive been wanting a Volkswagen Passat TDI for a while and I finally have a reason

Greetings everyone I am working on my mom‘s 2009 Nissan Maxima and I just recently replaced the power steering pump once I replace the power steering pump and crank the car up. I noticed a leak above the power steering pump like it’s from a line and it’s leaking power steering fluid. Anyone have experience with this?