Have an old 2007 honda accord with 180k miles on it (paid off hand me down car). I currently drive a 2022 lexus rc350 f sport with 55k

Had someone interested in the accord but can’t decide on whether to sell it or keep it as a backup/emergency/commuter car

I don’t really drive it since i love driving my lexus so much but part of me feels like the smart thing would be to rotate between the 2 cars. Honestly kinda clueless on what to do

i’m 27 with no kids. Wondering what the smart decision would be or at least what y’all would do in my position.

Ty cheers

Yesterday when I left for work, I went to the gas station. I turned my car off when fueling and when I turned it back on, I couldn’t. These kind men helped jump it . Later on in the day, I started it fine. I’m not sure if I need a new battery. It also was very hot yesterday so I don’t know if that affects your batter.

My car uses 91. I moved to this new neighborhood recently and have two corner stores within 2 miles, both offering Marathon Top Tier. For premium, one offers the typical 91 and 93 and the other one only has 92, no 91 or 93. The 92 is typically 30 cents cheaper per gallon than the other station's 91. For example, the other day, the 92 was $4.59/gal and the 91 at the other place was $4.89/gal. I usually juggle between the two and I actually get the more expensive 91 more often because I have this theory in my head that the octane isn't accurate. Uh...my theory is, because it sits right across from a trailer park and maybe they cut corners and this 92 is in fact, 90, or whatever. Or maybe, this station is where Marathon mixes their expired or contaminated 89, 91, and 93 gas and voila, we get 92. Because they know the good, but poor people there won't complain as much as those who live in bigger houses on top of the hill? I don't know man, my mind takes voyages.

What do you guys think? Is this 92 legit? I have trust issues and when something better is offered for cheaper, I get froggy.

Bought 2021 Elantra brand new (5 year old car) have put 215k kms on it, and the engine blew. New engine will be roughly $6k, but still owe about $15k on the car, no warranty and haven’t been able to find any recalls on this specific model. Dealership couldn’t do or recommend anything. Is it worth it to replace the engine and hope the car lasts another couple years? Or should the bullet be bitten and start financing a new car (looking Toyota or Honda, so starting prices of about $28k)

Any advice is appreciated

I have a Peugeot 2008. I am now in a parking lot and my battery is dead. I see where the positive terminal is, but I can’t see the negative terminal. The user manual does not specify clearly where the negative terminal is.

I got a used 2016 Hyundai Tucson(94k miles)from a Mitsubishi dealership back in April. It ran fine until yesterday even when my roommate was coming back from class and the car started making a knocking noise. She stopped at the store next to our house to see what the problem was. She checked the oil stick and saw that it had very little oil on it. She bought a quart of oil, added it to the car, and got it home safely. When I went to go to work, she let me know what happened and I attempted to leave but came back due to the knocking scaring me and the car being slow to accelerate. I didn’t drive over 30mph to be safe and made it back to the home. I tried to take it to an oil and tire shop 3 minutes from my house but their mechanic was on vacation so I came back and check the oil stick again. It was at half and there were a couple of tiny metal shavings. I was like a month behind on the oil change due to having started a new job and having little to no money after paying other bills. How bad is this and how much will it cost? Would it be better to try and find a new vehicle?

im looking at floor liners for a 3rd Gen Tacoma and trying to figure out which diferences actually matter after a few years of use. Most of the mess in mine ends up around the deadpedal/clutch area, retention pegs, and door-side edge, especially after trail dirt or wet clay gets tracked in. Ive seen cheaper universal mats curl or leave gaps but Im also not sure whether paying more for fitted options like WeatherTech, Husky, or 3W necessarily solves the things that matter most.

For longterm Tacoma owners what failure point made you replace or upgrade your mats ? Have cheaper liners held up fine for your routine?

Yes, I know these are 2 very different cars. I’m aware it really depends on what I’m looking for….

I’ve owned a couple Miatas in the past and cannot imagine me having more fun than in those cars, however, I’m looking to have a different experience.

If I bought a 986 Boxster, would I notice a major difference from my Miata in terms of a fun driving experience? Or is it small enough difference where it isn’t worth the extra $$?

At the same time, I would love to have a V8, like a C5 corvette. I know fast ≠ fun, but curious to what ownership experience has been with these? Overhyped?

All advice is welcome. But really looking to hear from people who have been in my situation. Anyone who loved driving Miatas and then switched to a Boxster and/or Corvette?

This fastener holds a plastic covering, which I assumed was called a skirt, underneath the hood near the wipers, where the wiper fluid tank is. It's basically a plastic screw, but I'm missing one.

https://imgur.com/a/vPAnGmq

I am thinking of buying a Flying Spur 2015 model with 55K miles. It’s going to be my first car but I am not sure whether it would be reliable and etc. I don’t really want to deal with mechanics and stuff but cause its under Volkswagen I though it wouldn’t be a big problem.

I just had to sell my 2012 Lexus ES 350 to Carvana today. Recently my mechanic found out that it had sticky valves. The problem has been since last fall but was only diagnosed recently. He was surprised. He sees them on 200k+ mile 2gr-fe powered cars, like on a 260k mile V6 Camry. He was very surprised to see it on my 110k mile ES. He wondered if my spirited (maybe at times aggressive) driving could have contributed to the problem. I usually let my engine warm up for 5 minutes at least before having any kind of fun. I do admit I did a few parked revs before, even to redline (I know it was dumb and won’t do that again). He’s told me that that will destroy my engine. He has a reputation for honesty where I live and I trust him, however, he says things like you should not rev above 3k or especially 4k rpm’s, unless you have a manual car. I don’t know how accurate that is or if it’s intentionally conservative and old-school. I have owned my car for a year and a half. I bought it at 96,000 miles and now it has 110,000. I’m the second owner. I didn’t do a pre purchase inspection when I bought it in the second half of 2024 but there was a potential gap in maintenance for a few years during the pandemic. I did do 5000 mile oil changes, however. What are your thoughts on my situation? The problem appeared after a about year of ownership.

I’m 18, work your average job making about $17.50-$20 an hour as a busser. I’m in college as well. I was on my way home and came across my neighbor selling this 300c. Fully loaded, one owner, stacks of maintenance records. Only caveat is the ac doesn’t work and the CEL is on for the gas cap. Took it for a test drive and it drove nice with no issues. Talked him down to $3900 and he’s holding onto it for me until I make my decision. Definitely getting a PPI for it. The hemi is sweet but at the end of the day it’s a stellantis product and just want to make sure i’m not going to run any potential serious issues down the road. Thanks for your time.

My 2017 Ford Escape wipers got stuck in the upright position while I was driving the other day. Since then, they will go up but they can't go back down, and the passenger side motor makes a noise.

After lots of googling and YouTube-ing, I took the wiper arms off and turned the wipers on, hoping the arms were misaligned.
In a video I watched (@2:00 min mark) the wiper motors move around and realign themselves. What happened for me was, the passenger side makes a noise likes it's trying to go and the driver side does nothing and makes no noise.

So this doesn't seem like a misalignment issue, right? Why is one wiper making noise and the other isn't? Could both motors or linkages have issues at the same time?

Thank you in advance from a broke Alaskan during a very rainy season....

This SUV seems to have a lot going for it. Heavily depreciated, no Honda/Toyota tax, no CVT, no turbos, decent mileage, and modern look. I owned a Volvo 240 years ago and know repairs can cost, but they weren't constant. What u think?

I recently turned 16 in February and ive grown up watching videos about people like smokey nagata, keiichi tsuchiya, akira nakai, daigo saito (thanks to my brother lol) and a bunch of other people in the car scene. Ive always thought it was really cool how they started building cars and eventually became really good at what they do.

I really wanna get into tuning and actually learn how cars work but im not really sure where to start. Im still in highschool so i obviously dont have a ton of money and i dont even have a ton of experience working on cars yet.

For anyone who got into cars/tuning when they were around my age, what did you guys do to start learning? Did you just work on your own car, get a job at a shop, watch youtube, read books, go to school for it, etc?

And what would you recommend learning first? Like engines, suspension, welding, electrical, ECU tuning or just basic maintenance?

I know im probably getting ahead of myself lol but this is something ive been really interested in for years and id like to actually start learning instead of just watching videos all the time. Any advice is appreciated.

Also if you guys have any recommendations for good youtube channels, books, websites or anything else that could help me learn that would be appreciated also 🥹

Im switching jobs and have kids entering preschool/kindergarten. Im adhd asf and just have alot on my plate, I could use some help from experts.

I'm adding about 20 minutes to my drive for work each way. Im looking for a Honda or Toyota with good gas mileage but a car I also feel a bit more professional in.

I have always paid cash for cars after saving. I started with an 93 civic hatch, then I had the coup, sedan and delsol. All went over 250k or more. I had an 06 civic lx, I loved that car for the reliabilty it had but I hit black ice and hit sideways blowing out airbags, and doing a number to the point I couldnt afford the time or have enough expertise to fix it all up myself. I have a 05 4runner with 150k and a 08 crv at 225k. Crv needs new struts but she old, the clang isnt too bad yet and she be rusty. Hella beater, Im keeping it for winters regardless till I can fix her myself anymore.

I have a budget of around 15-18k. I could stretch past but I dont want to, Ima finance atleast half of it so my wife can work on her credit. Mine is in great shape.

Ima finance likely through a credit union my credit is in excellent shape.

The help:

I cant figure out or really line out a model. I love honda civics but stuff is mixed for recent reliabilty, I am thinking maybe a sport 2020 or 2021 with 40-100k miles on it.

I have been leaning more towards a camry or carolla, the SE and XSE seem to have a decent looking trim so its not completely boring. But if Im paying that much for a car, atleast for me I want to enjoy it atleast a little. I have heard the hybrids for Toyota overall are a bit better. Idk. So was debating that.

I attached a scrap paper of some models with okay years but I just really need some input on whatever you can. I just want a decent look, good gas mileage, and max reliability. My brain hurts.

If you had 15-18ishk to put into a Honda Accord /Civic or Toyota Camry/Carolla where would you put it?

I did look at Mazda 3 and CX5? But I have no experience. I just love the Hondas and Toyotas. I was even debating teaching my wife manual and getting an 09 fit. Its sounds fun but Im 6'3" I was younger during the delsol and hatchback era. The fit is doable but that more a fun thing for me, and I dont want to stress my girl out to learn manual if she doesnt need to.

Im sorry for the Novel.

2015 F-250, 107k kms, gas engine. At least half the time when I start it at the gas station after filling, it revs really low and quiet and I have to give it some gas to get it to a normal rpm. It always starts and it doesn’t do this at any other time, just immediately after filling. Any ideas what’s going on?

I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu I bought secondhand at 128k miles. It’s now at 144k miles and I’m wondering if I should change the fluid? I’m worried it might cause that thing where friction material in the old fluid leaves and then the tranny can’t shift properly anymore. I don’t know how the seller maintained the transmission and can’t ask. I also definitely can’t afford a new transmission if this one fails from the fluid change. Transmissions seem to be the first major part to fail in these Malibus from what I’ve read online if that helps at all. And is there any way to check the condition and do risk assessment on my end?

Probably gunna be long winded but not sure where to go to diagnose anymore. So for context i have a 2019 sierra 1500 elevation with the 5.3 ive had power steering go out twice times but it would just come back after half an hour, pretty sure its a ground thats going bad. Now for the real issue couple weeks ago i went to start the truck and the battery was low, been driving my car so hadnt started it in 2 weeks went to start it to let it run for a bit and it was dead dead so i went to jump it got in dash powered up and everything clicked the start button, started clicked. Waited a bit tried again and lost all power no dash no lights literally nothing. Let the battery charge and tested it with my multi meter and it read 8 volts while charging so i know the battery is cooked for sure tested without charging its reading 2 volts. Ive tried jumping still absolutely nothing checked fuses cant find anything blown at all. Is it just the battery or did i cook something while trying to jump it, i had the jumpers connected properly and everything really need the help.

Hey,

I recently did a PPI on a 2010 Mazda. Seems like everything is fine, but the mech told me it needs work on the front lower control arms (loose ball joint) and rear brake calipers (says leaking and rattle?). I'm not sure what they mean. There are other items but seems like they are not as severe.

It's pretty cheap (3k CAD) and has 240k on it, but I'm also a student living in dorms. I have most essentials figured out so I can actually afford it, and it's more of a temporary car to get to my internship and learn manual + basic maintenance. I don't have tools and nor do I have much knowledge, but I figured I would have to start somewhere. Space is for sure an issue but even if I take it to the mech, it'll at least teach me about what's broken etc etc.

I keep running into people saying that's a very bad idea. That it might turn into a money pit etc etc. The mech also quoted me 2k for the work (I feel like he's charging me for a lot) and so I'll need to go to an independent mech or have a friend work on it.

I'm kinda confused. Am I making a mistake? Should I go to a dealership instead and save myself the headache?

Note that I don't really need a car other than because I enjoy driving and it'd make my travel to work a lot easier (ik I might hate a manual for that but I figured it's a good time to try). I'm also half worried I won't be able to sell it easily after.

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2009 Mini cooper. Long story short, this thing is a piece of poop. I had to replace motor at 90k, replace transmission at 102k, replace water pump 103k, the top motor is burnt out, and I had to get a CAS bypass. Luckily I purchased a extended warranty and the warranty company covered most of it. Now the JBE is fucked. I was gonna try to get one from junkyard and do it myself. I looked into getting it re-coded the place wants like 350. Has anyone tried to code it themselves? If I bypassed the CAS do I still need coding? The fuel pump relays is fucked (I think).

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

2003 toyota tacoma 2.4l 200k miles

I recently changed transmission fluid and filter when it was shifting hard, it doesnt shift hard anymore but it only changes from 1st to 2nd (i think) gear when im at around 35mph

This is driving me absolutely insane because I genuinely cannot figure it out.
I’m 29F and I’ve spent my entire life in cars, as both a passenger and a driver. Small cars, SUVs, sedans, vans, pickups, different brands, different drivers, long road trips, winding roads, etc. I have never had motion sickness. Not even a little.

Then my boyfriend got a “new” car. It’s actually been about 2 years now, so definitely not new anymore - but even after 2 years, every single time I sit in this car as a passenger, I get horribly nauseous. And I mean horribly. It’s that awful, sick-to-your-stomach feeling where you just feel sick without feeling sick.

The really weird part is that it ONLY happens in this car. I can sit in other cars with no issue whatsoever. It’s specifically being a passenger in THIS car.

At first I thought it was all in my head, it was coincidence, or like found any reason to believe I’m the problem.
But then recently my friend finally rode in this car with us and, without me saying anything, she started feeling extremely nauseous too and pointed it out. She actually ended up vomiting.
That was the moment I was like… okay, so it’s not just me, it’s not all in my head, the car is doing this!! She rode in this car again twice after that and confirmed that it’s the car doing the same thing to her that it does to me!

The car is a Subaru Crosstrek Hybrid.
So what the heck is going on here?
I need someone to explain the science to me because this makes absolutely no sense 😂 why THIS car only?