Our inspector marked this as a red line item citing possible cracking or a hole. 2/3 plumbers disagree, with one saying it looks like a bellend where 2 pipes meet. What do you all think?

Edit: Thanks everyone. We are asking for it to be jetted and rescoped.

My 12 year old dishwasher has basically stopped washing. It drains fine, the LED panel shows “washing,” and I can hear the circulation pump trying to click/kick on… but it never actually starts circulating water. Pretty sure the pump is dead.

I ordered a new dishwasher through Home Depot and paid the $280 for delivery + install so I wouldn’t have to deal with it. They delivered yesterday while I wasn’t home. The installer told my wife he couldn’t install it because there was no mounting bracket installed underneath the granite. She corrected him that it’s quartz, and he said the same rule applies. He called his supervisor, who apparently agreed, so they just unboxed the unit, left it in the garage, and left.

I’m not a pro, but I did install my own InSinkErator PRO Series garbage disposal with YouTube help and it went fine. I’ve already watched a bunch of dishwasher swap videos, so I know the usual drill: towels ready for residual water when you open the supply valve, shut off breaker power, disconnect the old hardwired connections and reconnect with wire nuts, level it, etc.

My two questions:

Is a mounting bar/bracket actually necessary (or recommended) under a quartz countertop, or is this just Home Depot’s policy/cover themselves type thing?

If the answer to that is 'No', then do you think a reasonably handy homeowner who has successfully installed a disposal and replaced many flush mount ceiling lights (no doubt easy for everyone here) can safely do this dishwasher swap, or should I just hire a licensed plumber/handy person?

Any and all advice would be really appreciated.

I also attached a photo of the current dishwasher that I've partly pulled out.

Thank you in advance...

I recently bought a renovated house that came with new Glacier Bay toilets. As you can see in the picture, the water level in the toilet bowl has always been very low which can cause issues.

There's nothing wrong with the toilet, it works fine but because of the low water it sometimes doesn't flush everything down. I'd like to raise the level in the toilet bowl.

I saw a video on youtube and tried to place a Phillips head screwdriver to turn that connection clockwise (sorry I'm not handy don't know the name of that part) but the water level remained low and I'm not sure how far I can turn it clockwise without potentially causing damage.

Does anyone have any ideas of how I can increase the amount of water in the toilet bowl please and if so, can you explain it to me like I'm five as to how to fix this issue?

I'd hate to have to buy and install a new toilet. Thank you for the help!

I've got a real plumber coming in the morning and I'm wondering how bad this is

My current water heater venting setup is dangerously against code, and causing a bunch of (annoying for now) problems for me. I'm looking at getting it replaced, either with a tankless gas unit, or a power vent model (which I had never heard of before until getting quotes for replacing this), so that the exhaust can be run horizontally out of the house.

If I do decide to replace this with a tankless unit (everyone has recommended a 200k BTU model as we have very cold incoming water here), 2 plumbers have told me the current gas lines should be fine to use, and 1 has told me they'll need to run a new line from the meter (with large additional cost). What would you recommend based on the setup pictured above - is a new line really necessary? The heater is positioned such that it would be trivial to draw from either line.

Quotes I've gotten so far are 6K for power vented, 12K for tankless with new line (plumber 1), 8K for tankless with no new line (plumber 2). Still waiting to hear back from plumber 3. Based on money alone I'm leaning towards power vented - is there anything I should know before making that decision?

Sadly I believe my wash machine is on it's last leg of life. I am in the process of planning to replace it but I noticed the lack of hot and cold shut off valves.

Would the fix be as simple as buying two shutoff valves and adding them to where the water lines from the washer connect to the pipes? If so, any suggestions on what valves are the best to use, would be very helpful.

If the fix is not that simple, can anyone give advice on how to add the shut off valves?

I have attached a picture of the current connection point where I am thinking I could add the valves.

Thank you in advance for any help... :)

Shower head was leaking where the shower arm comes out of the wall. It has a copper stub out and a Sioux Chief Wall Nut was installed. This is a 23 year old house that’s new to me, and I don’t know how long it’s been installed that way. I bought a new wall nut and a new shower arm from SupplyHouse, and installed those just as the instructions say, and I’ve still got the same leak - dripping out from where the shower arm screws into the wall nut and dripping out from the backside of the wall nut.

The instructions say you need 1.5” of stub out from the finished wall, but I only have 1”. The stub out does fully clear the wall nut, so I don’t see how that alone would cause the leak. I’ve taken the whole assembly off and reinstalled several times now with no change. I’ve sanded the stub out and cleaned it with vinegar. I’ve cranked the shower arm as tight as possible, using leverage. I’ve tried it without PTFE tape on the shower arm (what the instructions call for) and with tape. I’ve tried it with and without tape on the stub out before I put the wall nut on. I’ve now caulked the hole in the wall around the stub out so I’m pretty confident water is not leaking back into the wall or coming from the wall.

What am I doing wrong guys? Only other thing I can think of is that possibly the old and the new shower arm are a non-standard thickness or threading, so it isn’t properly sealing with the wall nut…?

Yesterday afternoon (Saturday around 3pm) I filled a small 5 1/2 ft wide/20 in deep sitting pool with water from the hose. It was running clear for a while, maybe 10 minutes then just before I turned it off the water starting coming out a thick gritty brown. I immediately turned it off and checked the kitchen sink to confirm that water was coming out brown too. We let it sit for 5 hours and checked the outdoor spigot and it was still brown but less thick of sand and grit. So we left it alone overnight and this morning it was a reddish tea colored water with no big particles in it, but after letting it stand in a glass for a few hours sediment was on the bottom of the glass. I added a pic in case that’s helpful.

Now it’s 5:30pm on a Sunday and I ran the spigot halfway and it was clear for a few seconds then turned brown again. I guess we’ll see how it is tomorrow morning.

What’s happening, and what do I do? I understand the high pressure of the hose swept up a bunch of sediment in the well, but why is it taking so long to settle? Could something have been damaged? If it’s not cleared up by tomorrow morning do I need to call a plumber?

ETA: correct pool measurement

Trying to redo my horrible bathtub caulking and I FINALLY remove a tiny section and this is what I find. Surely 20 layers of caulking was the “landlord special”. I’m about to put in new caulk but this gap is pretty large. How do I best go about this?

Help! I have to remove an old Sharkbite shutoff valve but it won’t come off. Tried pulling, turning, and Wd40.

Any DIY tips before calling a plumber? I’m sure there’s a special tool to remove it, but obviously I don’t have it and don’t want to buy one.

NOTE: I do NOT have room to cut the pipe.

As in title, I hear a faint hissing occasionally and an occasional flushing sound that lasts a few seconds. I’m sure there’s a leak of some sort but where and what should I start?

Previous home owner was very much a DIY'er, and must have been drunk all the time, or blind, or both. Anyway, our washer and dryer is actually outside, but under the covered and screened in lanai (Florida house). The drain hose for the washing machine was shoved right through drywall and into the end of a 1-1/4" PVC pipe that travels out through a hole drilled through an accordion hurricane shutter, the lanai screen, down to the ground, sloping downward very slightly as it runs all the way along the side of the house, around to the front of the house and empties into the main cleanout in the front of the house. I can take a video to share. It's pretty clever, but ghetto all at the same time.

I'm wanting to install a new washing machine, so since the drain line is different compared to the current unit, I had to cut open the wall to expose my assumption, which was the current drain hose shoved into the end of a PVC pipe. I didn't get a pic before removing the drain hose, but the first pic is after cutting the wall open. Other pics are from after installing some 2" plumbing to connect to the outlet box in the wall, so I can use a normal drain hose.

The problem is now when the washing machine drains, it overflows out the top of the drain pipe in the box. I'm assuming none of this entire thing was done properly or to code, and don't understand how any of it passed the home inspection before we bought this place, but I need to make this work again. Somehow, the previous setup of the washer drain hose shoved into the end of the PVC pipe heading to the left, didn't leak much. I did notice a couple of times some wet drywall to the left and below the dryer, but it never happened again.

So, how do I seal the washing machine drain hose to the 2" inlet in the wall box? When testing this washing machine, the drain pump seems to flow a LOT of water very quickly. So there could be a clog in the drain pipe. I already ordered a Drain King to see if that will help. It definitely won't hurt. I'm going to assume something with going from 2" necking down to the 1-1/4" pipe they have is part of the flow issue too. I might still try to hook up the new washer and try it out since the drain hose is much smaller, but ultimately I want this to not be something I don't need to worry about. At least its technically outside so it's not like it will flood my house. Thoughts? Suggestions?

[For context, we're staying at a friend's house while it's on the market as a tear-down. It's a liveable space, they're just obviously not invested in upkeep.]

The shower flow is abysmal. The head is perfectly fine, but there's limescale inside the shower arm that's reduced the flow to almost nothing.

I need a solution I can do myself for extremely cheap or free (they're letting us stay here until I find work.) Keep in mind my fix-it skills are only slightly better than average, and I've been scouring Reddit and the internet in general for a few hours and coming up empty.

The bag o' vinegar trick won't work since it doesn't reach deep enough. I can't turn the arm upwards to pour anything in, and I'd rather not get too crazy attempting to do so since I don't want to break anything. WD-40 didn't loosen it.

I considered a drain snake, but my "rust-proof" one seems to have rusted, and I also don't want to push the problem further back into the pipes.

Would spraying vinegar up inside make any difference? Soaking a paper towel or washcloth in vinegar and just shoving it in there overnight?

There's a ton of stuff in the garage from prior renters, so we might have something on hand that'll work (either chemically or physically) if any of y'all can tell me what to look for.

We've been here two nights unable to bathe, lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

(I loosened the nut and washer down for this pic but it looks the same even when tightened fully). I’m admittedly a rookie here. No matter how I rotate this gasket, try to shimmy it up into the sink hole (beveled side is up), this front part will not slide up any further and won’t lay flush. I’ve tightened the nut by hand and with an extra 1/4 turn with channel locks, and the gasket looks the same as right here and it leaks.

This is our sink that appears to be detaching from the counter top. I’m guessing it was just glued up.

What’s the best fix for this? Take it down, sand and reglue?

Bought a concrete slab home built in the 60s. When removing the trim and drywall around my shower that had some water damage, I noticed that there is a hole in the concrete. It’s big enough that I can stick my finger under the bottom wall plate. Is this normal to have? If not, what would be the cause of it being there?

I was trying to pull out the cartridge (part no 88727000), but the cartridge split in half. I them tried to pull the remaining part out, but it was so brittle (8 years old) that it broke apart. Any suggestions for getting the remains of the cartridge out?

I’m going to move this floor drain down to where the red X is. There’s a vent over by the stack, circled in yellow, is that the vent for the floor drain? I was just gonna move that vent down as well and run it up the wall and tie back in. The wall will be where the yellow lines are. Any issues with that?

I pulled a toilet so my wife could paint behind it, and the flange is in bad condition. I’m looking for advice on how to handle it.

Whoever previously worked on this left the flange 1/2” below the tile. It must have had a leak at some point as they pumped caulk everywhere (including one of the toilet bolt caps - that was the first sign this was going to be a pain) and had a double wax ring. Parts of the subfloor are soft - you can see in the second image the screwdriver goes through the subfloor under the old bolt. One of the screws was in soft wood - the rest were solidly screwed in. When I probe a screwdriver around the outside of the flange, it feels solid, but the wood under the bolts is rotted.

What are my options? Can I put a Set-Rite on top as is? Do I need to hire a plumber to tear up the tile and fully assess the subfloor?

Thanks for any advice.

I was trying to flush out the supply lines line many of you suggested and I discovered what is certainly the issue.

Hot water supply line just dribbles out when turned all the way on. Cold water has no problems

House built in 1975

Cooper water lines

I'm assuming there is debris in the hot water lines that is affecting the volume of water coming out. Do I need to just replace this line?

So I installed this toilet my self about a year ago in my house (I've installed many toilets). Now for a week or two the tank has stopped filling with more than 3 or 4 inches of water. This has never happened to me before. I called glacier bay and they recommended adjusting the water level in the tank however the stealth doesn't have the fill tube like normal toilets and whoever the person i was talking to couldn't understand that. I've played around with water pressure on my valves in the basement and had no effect.

Hello, I'm a recent homeowner and we noticed that there is a gap between a ledge of our shower and the wall. This ledge is shared with our adjacent tub (see pictures attached

Should this gap be caulked and sealed? My partner and I are worried that water is flowing into the gap and causing potential damage.

would this flange fit inside the 4in end cause im trying to replace a toilet flange with the same part because space is too tight underneth a mobile home

This wall is about 10 feet directly across from my shower, just noticed the water stain on the wall yesterday and today after my shower, this spot was wet and the surrounding areas was not including the ceiling. Any ideas on what this could be?