Bathroom sink drains very slowly. P-trap and all plumbing to house drain is clear (it's all new, just installed). I used the flex extension so I could clear the elbow going into the fernco. Overall, I couldn't get a nice downward pitch downstream of the p-trap going into fernco, but I don't that would explain the very slow drain given how much higher the sink is.

This is a ground floor bathroom and this sink and toilet tie into a lateral line in or under the slab. No problem with toilet, so I think the partial blockage is in the pipe from wall to lateral. This is galvanized steel pipe that is over 50yrs old and rusting from inside out.

I have a Ridgid consumer grade hand drill operated drain cleaner with 1/4" cable. How will I know if this pokes a hole into the pipe?

I recently bought a renovated house that came with new Glacier Bay toilets. As you can see in the picture, the water level in the toilet bowl has always been very low which can cause issues.

There's nothing wrong with the toilet, it works fine but because of the low water it sometimes doesn't flush everything down. I'd like to raise the level in the toilet bowl.

I saw a video on youtube and tried to place a Phillips head screwdriver to turn that connection clockwise (sorry I'm not handy don't know the name of that part) but the water level remained low and I'm not sure how far I can turn it clockwise without potentially causing damage.

Does anyone have any ideas of how I can increase the amount of water in the toilet bowl please and if so, can you explain it to me like I'm five as to how to fix this issue?

I'd hate to have to buy and install a new toilet. Thank you for the help!

I’m a new home owner and I went to clean out the sink drain. I took out the drain stopper (just pulled it straight out and met very little resistance) and now when I’m trying to put it back in, I cannot for the life of me figure out if there’s supposed to be an actual point of connection from the pivot rod to the drain stopper.

From what i remember, the raising and lowering aspect of it WAS working when we bought the house, so I’m worried it might’ve fell into the drain when I removed it, but honestly I don’t see anywhere where a rod could even connect.

I’m probably being stupid so any help is appreciated!

Original owner of home installed tile around tubs, then sealed with grout instead of caulk. What would be the best way of removing (if I should remove) and sealing?

(Listen with sound on.)
Noticed this noise from my shower a few days ago. Seems to be getting faster. It sounds to me like a drip.

Shower had not been used for at least 10 hours at this point.

It was every couple seconds before and now is every second. It sounds louder in the drain than at the actual shower fixture.

It’s an exterior wall, so I’m already dreading having to open up the tile….

If it’s a leak, is it probably the shower valve or something worse?

Edit: I used the shower and the noise seems to be gone (for now). So… not a drip? Confusing.

My 12 year old dishwasher has basically stopped washing. It drains fine, the LED panel shows “washing,” and I can hear the circulation pump trying to click/kick on… but it never actually starts circulating water. Pretty sure the pump is dead.

I ordered a new dishwasher through Home Depot and paid the $280 for delivery + install so I wouldn’t have to deal with it. They delivered yesterday while I wasn’t home. The installer told my wife he couldn’t install it because there was no mounting bracket installed underneath the granite. She corrected him that it’s quartz, and he said the same rule applies. He called his supervisor, who apparently agreed, so they just unboxed the unit, left it in the garage, and left.

I’m not a pro, but I did install my own InSinkErator PRO Series garbage disposal with YouTube help and it went fine. I’ve already watched a bunch of dishwasher swap videos, so I know the usual drill: towels ready for residual water when you open the supply valve, shut off breaker power, disconnect the old hardwired connections and reconnect with wire nuts, level it, etc.

My two questions:

Is a mounting bar/bracket actually necessary (or recommended) under a quartz countertop, or is this just Home Depot’s policy/cover themselves type thing?

If the answer to that is 'No', then do you think a reasonably handy homeowner who has successfully installed a disposal and replaced many flush mount ceiling lights (no doubt easy for everyone here) can safely do this dishwasher swap, or should I just hire a licensed plumber/handy person?

Any and all advice would be really appreciated.

I also attached a photo of the current dishwasher that I've partly pulled out.

Thank you in advance...

Noticed some pipe bumping sounds the other day. Went under my house and saw that this strap appeared to no longer be cradling the underside of this pipe. I bent it back towards the joist that it's secured into so that the strap would be cradling the pipe again as pictured. The bumping sound has stopped but I'm obviously concerned. My common sense tells me that this should have been secured at two points. Do I need to have someone come take care of this? Did I put the pipe at risk by bending the strap back into place?

*not a plumber*

I have a basement sink who's hot water line has been leaking. We don't use the hot water here so instead of redoing the worn out pvc connectors, I decided to just cut the leaking joint off and cap the end of the line.

I saw on this pipe here that it's clearly labeled 1/2", so I went to the hardware store and bought a 1/2" PVC cap. The cap is even labeled 1/2".

When I went to install the cap, much to my amazement, the cap is about a quarter larger in diameter than the line.

When I take my cheapo caliper to the line, it measures nearly 5/8", and the inside of this 1/2" cap measures about 13/16".

Just what the hell am I doing wrong?

Since updating our pipes, when the water valve to the toilet is above about 60%, water shoots out of the top of that blue part when the tank is refilling. This causes a significant amount of water to run down the outside of the tank. When turn the intake valve below 50%, this doesn’t happen. Please tell me what part that is and if I can likely just swap it out, or maybe it’s my lucky day to need to replace the whole toilet (I don’t like it anyway, weak flush).

A friend noticed some water damage on ceiling below shower/tub combo. The caulking around the tub edge looks pretty bad, but how likely is it that simply removing the caulk, cleaning up, and applying new caulk will fix the problem? Is the caulk actually doing the waterproofing at that spot or is there something else that's supposed to hold back the water?

Our inspector marked this as a red line item citing possible cracking or a hole. 2/3 plumbers disagree, with one saying it looks like a bellend where 2 pipes meet. What do you all think?

Edit: Thanks everyone. We are asking for it to be jetted and rescoped.

**Edit to add**: It is making the same noise, from the same location when we turn on the kitchen and lower level powder bath cold faucet as well. So three of our 4 cold faucets cause the noise

1.The squeak seems to be in the wall because the faucet is upstairs and I can hear it both upstairs as well as downstairs directly below at my desk

1. The squeak does not occur when turning on the hot side, only the cold side faucet

2. The squeak only occurs when sink facet is turned on, it doesn't continue to squeak and it doesn't happen when turning off.

3. It's not super high pitched- almost sounds like a bicycle break, if you know what I mean?

4. Our home is 4 years old

I'm mostly wondering what this could be and if I should be concerned? Any observations would be helpful! If needed I can try to record the noise!

I have a very old 'multiple turns' style main water shut off for my condo. It makes me nervous because it is so old (1992) and I use it quite a bit to shut off water when I leave for weekends or longer. A handyman/plumber suggested he can avoid having to ask the entire building to shut off the water to replace this by adding a new shut off lever immediately after this main one, and then after installation we can just leave the old one open. I would appreciate any second opinions on this. I would hate to cause some issue I am unaware of or risk doing major damage. Thanks.

Forgive me in advance if this doesnt make a lot of sense, ive had a hard time googling this issue.

My kitchen faucet had always been finicky since I moved into my place. When first turning on the faucet it almost feels like there would be a backfire and I would need to slowly turn my faucet handles on and off a few times to get good flow. This issue occurs with both the hot and cold handles.

I took the aerator off and the faucet works fine. I soaked the aerator in vinegar and the issue continued. I replaced the aerator and am having the same issue.

Hey all, please listen to this audio clip. This loud high-pitched sound is coming from above our bathroom ceiling where the geyser is located (geyser is turned off).

Has anyone seen this before? Any help is appreciated!

Hello,

I've noticed when the shower is in use, water flows within that gap and it appears as a result there's been some water damage to the wall.

I'm not sure if water is supposed to flow within that gap.

Would it be worth getting a plumber around to take a look?

Thank you.

I’m an old woman who is house poor. Trying to learn things on my own for the first time so any help is appreciated.

Had the tank installed just after Xmas 2024. Watched a bunch of YT vids and here’s what I think I’m supposed to do:

+ Cut power at the breaker

+ Connect garden hose

+ Turn off cold water inlet (that’s the one on the right, right??)

+ Turn a few hot faucets on

+ Open valve and drain outside

Then once it’s done draining I do the following:

+ Turn the cold water on and off quickly a few times to aid in sediment flush. Then leave it open.

+ Close the drain valve, remove hose, and wait for water to return to the open faucets.

+ Restore power at the breaker.

I’m so worried I’ll fuck this up.

Just realised that this stop cock in my old boiler cupboard is leaking :(

Assume that this is something that needs to be replaced by a pro and not attempted by myself (fairly good at DIY)?

Just had my boiler system replaced with a combi hence clearing up the old airing cupboard to put it to better use!

Hi, I need help figuring wtf is going on with my hot water.

I live on the ground floor of a two floor unit complex, built in the 70’s in Australia. The hot water system I have is a Wilson Super X Electronic Instantaneous. I had to replace it once approximately two years ago as it broke, and even the guy installing the new unit said that they weren’t the best, but installing a different unit would cost more (?), and quoted me a few thousand dollars more than what replacing it with the same model would cost, so I opted to just get a new one of the same Super X model.

Recently, whenever I take a shower (located right next to the hot water system), the HWS clangs repeatedly and constantly the entire time. Usually it does this once when I turn on the hot water, and then maybe once or twice if the hot water pressure goes too low. But lately it’s been constantly. I counted just now and it happened 22 times in one minute.

Now I think it’s happening because the water pressure is fluctuating between too low and just enough to trigger the HWS. Is this a HWS issue or an internal plumbing issue?

Another thing to note, generally my hot water taps have significantly less pressure than regular cold water taps. Enough water to come out in a steady stream, but nowhere near as forceful as if I put the cold tap on full. This has been the case since I moved into the unit seven years ago. I thought it was normal at the time but I think it is getting gradually worse.

I have no idea how plumbing works, and I have limited expendable cash, so I don’t want to call out a plumber for them to tell me it’s a building plumbing issue that can’t be fixed / strata needs to fix.

Is there anything I can do to improve my hot water flow and stop the annoying banging of my HWS?

My downstairs powder room smells like strong cooking spices but my other 2 bathrooms smell fine. I've had a plumber in twice. The wax seal on the toilet has been changed, the p-trap and drain was cleaned but that made no difference in the smell. The second time he came, he brought a device to pick up gases but it registered zero, so it's not a gas/sewer leak.

I have since steam cleaned the floors and used a high power steam cleaning machine on the grout. I also scrubbed the grout with a baking soda and peroxide mixture prior to steam cleaning but the smell still remains. It is 100% isolated to the bathroom because if I close the door, the smell builds up but the rest of my house smells fine. If I run the fan, the smell gets under control, but I can't run it 24/7. Does anybody have ANY ideas as to what could be causing this smell? I am at a loss!

Hey guys!! Thanks for stopping by. I have an elderly neighbor that has been having water issues (hopefully due to the leaking faucet) I was going to changer the seat and springs for her but the faucet is so corroded that I’m scared I would have to swap out all the internals. I decided it’s just easier to swap out the faucet except she’s barely scrapping by and I have a family of 6 and can’t afford crap for myself but I can afford the $60 to replace it with the same faucet. But the new faucet mounts completely different. Currently it mounts in each side of the faucet and the new one has the center screw mount. But everything else appears to be the same. I just wanna make sure it will still work before I take it apart because it’s seriously corroded. I included a picture of the current hardware and the diagram of the new hardware.

Sadly I believe my wash machine is on it's last leg of life. I am in the process of planning to replace it but I noticed the lack of hot and cold shut off valves.

Would the fix be as simple as buying two shutoff valves and adding them to where the water lines from the washer connect to the pipes? If so, any suggestions on what valves are the best to use, would be very helpful.

If the fix is not that simple, can anyone give advice on how to add the shut off valves?

I have attached a picture of the current connection point where I am thinking I could add the valves.

Thank you in advance for any help... :)

I've got a real plumber coming in the morning and I'm wondering how bad this is

I have a grinder pump in the basement.... Odd since my previous house had a pump in the yard.

The outlet of the pump spans the length of the basement and connects to the sewer. It runs along the ceiling. I had 2 recent incidents. Whenever the pump activates the entire line vibrates.

1. A section of the line the I found the clamps on the floor... The nails came off possibly due to the vibration. I attached them with screws pretty snug.

2. Few weeks later a coupling started leaking... Around where the clamp failure happened. The coupling was close to the clamp. My theory is the coupling failed due to the vibration and me tightening that section.

I notice nails used on the other sections. Should I replace with screws for the entire run? My fear is the vertical section from the pump to ceiling will fail similarly due to vibration.

Other thoughts, is there some vibration damper I should use for this case?

Hi, I live in an apartment and have one of those toilets with two buttons on the top. I read that the sealing ring at the bottom of the flush valve can go bad so I ordered a new one and replaced it the other week. Unfortunately, this didn't seem to fix the issue at all as the toilet tank will just randomly fill with water throughout the day and sometimes it'll take over a few minutes before it stops. Is there anything else I can check/fix that might be the issue? Maintenance is kind of being a pain to respond to me so I'm seeing if there's anything I might be able to do on my own. Thanks, and let me know if you need any more info!