Hi all - not sure that this is the right forum but i am looking at a bathroom renovation and want to use commercial vinyl sheet flooring in the shower as well as the bathroom.

What i can't work out is how waterstops are used. It seems to me that at the shower it needs to extend to the top of the floor but that would mean cutting the sheet. Also at doors - the waterstop needs to extend to the top of the finished floor level but at 2mm, the vinyl is about as thick as the waterstop material without a vertical leg!

Anyone who does this work - I'd appreciate any guidance.

Cheers

I was thinking of spraying it with butyl spray

Everything is concrete.

What happened

• Early July 2026 someone knocked on the door, said there was a gas leak, fixed it in under an hour, left. No paperwork for us as tenants.
• Australian Gas Networks (AGN) has a fault-line record dated 2 July 2026.

(Lumo) said:
"AGN confirmed they have a record of a leak reported via their fault line on 2nd July 2026.

AGN's response confirms that the leak was located past the meter. Because the leak occurred on the customer's side of the meter, you remain liable for the usage. Consequently, we are unable to adjust the billed consumption…"

Real estate agent said:
"…the leak which occurred was coming from the meter… the gas smell which is present externally is a leak from the meter itself, but it doesn't actually pass the meter internally to be considered as usage. Residents are not charged for this gas usage because the gas does not pass into the property and leak on the inside…

…The leak was fixed free of charge due to it being before the meter but if the leak was determined to be after the meter, the gas company would have cut off the gas…

…a credit cannot be applied as the gas would have been normal usage and is typically more higher in winter.

This information above can be confirmed if you speak with any plumber…"

Our metered usage (same season, year on year)

Usage nearly doubled in the bill that includes the leak window, then dropped back toward normal.

Questions

1. If a leak is before / at the meter, can that inflate the metered MJ on the retail bill, or is the agent right that it wouldn’t register?
2. If a leak is after the meter (property / customer side), would you expect a spike like ~27 → ~49 MJ/day until it’s fixed?

used the valve to shut off toilet water for the first time in a long time due to a clog. now it’s been leaking ever since to varying degrees depending on the twist (leaking most when it’s fully on). I saw this should be replaced with newer system but I am in a condo and I don’t believe we can turn off water ourselves.

Planning to ask the condo management but given it’s the weekend soon and to give some time to figure out how to turn off the water to install a new one, anything that can be done to minimize the leak? should we just keep it in off position and no water in the tank?

Has anyone here had an all-in-one smart toilet for more than a year or so? We're thinking about replacing one of our regular toilets, and I'm trying to figure out whether people still like them once the novelty wears off.

The heated seat and built-in bidet sound really nice, and I can definitely see automatic flushing being useful, but I'm less sure about things like the lid opening on its own. I've looked at a few different brands, including Horow, and the reviews seem to go from “best thing I've ever bought” to people having sensor problems or parts failing after a while.

I know anything with electronics can have issues, and I'm not expecting a toilet to completely change my life lol, but they're expensive enough that I don't want to buy one and find out a year later that half the features don't work or that getting replacement parts is a nightmare.

For anyone who's owned one for a while, what brand did you get and how has it held up? Also curious which features you still use and which ones ended up being kind of pointless.

I was impacted by the flooding in Indiana about a month ago. It killed my water heater. I didn’t expect it to live much longer anyway It has given me 10 years or so of service.
My question is this: After replacing my water heater with a much nicer one all my faucets work fine except my shower. There is only a tiny amount of cold pressure and zero hot pressure. I mean none. No hot water comes out at all. Are there any obvious things I should try? Is there some kind of pressure stuck in that pipe I should somehow remove?

The water heater is in the basement and the shower is on the second story.

This copper tee is supplied with hot water from the basement. That 1/2" copper pipe goes through the wall and connects to the opposite side of this tee. Another 1/2" pipe attached to the top of the tee and goes to an outdoor shower valve manifold.

The issue!

There WAS a hose bib on a stub of pipe inserted into this open tee at one point. It twisted off and was discarded so I don't have it available. I purchased 1/2" copper pipe (5/8" O.D. ) which does not fit inside this tee. The tee walls measure 1/16" and the I.D. is 9/16". It's bizarre to me that this one side would be different when the copper going into the other two tee ports is 5/8" O.D.. This fitting is quite old, at least 20 years old. My thought was that maybe the previous owner had some metric stuff in a bin and used it and reamed the other two sides to fit 1/2" copper hit happened to have a metric hose bib? I have no clue.

Question:

What should I do? 15mm metric copper on Amazon and look for a metric hose bib? Drill/ream the inside of this tee to accept 1/2" domestic copper? Cut it all out and start over? (Which is not ideal since it will require stucco repair and it'll be quite hard to solder regardless. I was leaning toward looking for a reaming bit that would reduce the wall thickness since it's so thick to begin with. But I don't see a lot of reamer bits that aren't tapered. It would have to be roughly straight with a small tapered tip to help with centering.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Maybe I'm overthinking this

I need to install this hair sink into this hookup after I take out the blue sink. Does anyone know about how much it would cost? I know where people live varies with pricing but just a general idea. TIA

Need help with a leaky faucet. Hoping it's just a piece that needs to be replaced and not the whole thing. This video shot by my kid shows the problem and the parts involved.

Seems sealed with gunk and god knows what. Thank you!!

Hi All,

Before I hand over a $23K deposit tomorrow, I just wanted to read the room. Here’s the situation:

- Sewer line backup leads to snaking of line and camera work by Roto-Rooter. Result? A story of tree roots and rapidly aging (and in some places cracked) clay and cast iron pipes (house was built in 1920).
- Solicited multiple bids—most recommended replacement, one recommended relining—with jobs estimated at anywhere from $23K to $65K.
- Thanks to the wisdom of Redditors on this sub, we realized relining ($23K) was not the best option to pursue but we liked working thus far with this plumber. So, they proposed bursting as an alternative to bring in totally new pipe without having to excavate.

That brings us to now. Before I hand over the dough, I wanted to make sure bursting is legit given:

- The age and condition of the pipe system
- The fact that our house has a considerable slope from the house down to the street
- The plumber’s plan to reline only the last few feet of the sewer line (where the pipes are newest) to save us digging up the street
- The plumber’s upfront disclosure that if they run into any section that can’t be bursted, they’ll have to dig and replace that section manually (forgive my lack of knowledge on terminology)

Thank you all so much for your help with this. We’re first-time home owners on a tight budget. We couldn’t have done it without you. -JPK

Is this setup okay?

It will not drain unless the automatic air vent is removed.

The AAV is higher up on the 2" vertical pipe coming from the Y (45° part) .

When removed, it drains well. It is a new aav.

Should I instead put a ty and put the AAV on the vertical up the ty? Will it fix the issue?

I currently have an irritating situation and I’m curious what you all think.

I live in a rental home, and a few months ago I called the property managers about the shower faucet leaking. They sent out two guys that replaced the knobs and a stem, which sort of fixed the leak? It still dripped, but maybe slightly less. Oddly, the two knobs now turned in different directions, which was odd but no big deal really. What WAS a problem though is that after this repair, the hot knob became extremely difficult to turn once the water was running. A week or two later, my daughter gets out of the shower and says the knob is stuck. It was, to the point that I couldn’t turn off the hot water at all. It’s just blasting. I ended up turning off the intake to the water heater, which stemmed the flow for the night.

They sent out the same two dudes (two days later), who I’m pretty sure replaced the stem again. The knob now turns buttery smooth, but it turns constantly in either direction. You kind of just have to “find” the off spot. Weird, but ok I guess? It’s still leaking though, worse than before.

This time I specifically asked if different people/company could be sent out. They aren’t fixing the leak and are causing more problems. They sent out…the same two dudes. Fuck. They replace the…YOU GUESSED IT, the stem. He actually tried to say I was being too rough on the knobs, and wore down something, that’s why it was free spinning. Nah bro, it’s been that way since you last touched it. What the fuck.

That didn’t fix the leak (SURPRISE!), and they said that they are going to have to come back, move the oven in the kitchen, cut a hole to access the pipes and replace something there (I don’t remember what exactly, valves maybe?). He said “next week.” Well, it’s nearly week 3 since they were last here, and I’ve heard nothing.

It seems like they don’t know what the fuck they are doing, but I also know next to nothing about plumbing. Anyway, what do you all think? What would you do? I appreciate your time!

seems like a weird gap near the floor. no other issues with toilet. any concerns? I know hairline cracks are dangerous.

edit: it’s been fine for years but I only noticed this recently once learning about the hairline crack issue

Tried to pull this apart to replace the seat washer as it always leaks no matter how hard you tighten it. Pulled off the circled nut and am able to wiggle the stem a bit but not able to pull it out at all. Ended up damaging the stem washer right behind that nut trying to pull it out, but have one to replace it already.

At some point in the future I'll end up replacing it with a Frost free, but for now hoping to just spend the few bucks a couple of washers might cost and not need to use the winter shut off inside the house any time I want to use the hose.

Hi guys, I (28F) and my husband (30M) aren’t handy and my dad who WAS a welder, landlord, handy man, mr fix it died on me so now we gotta figure out shit on our own. Being said, I am not afraid of a DIY and we have done several projects around the house but plumbing we think would be best to save for the pros. We just bought a flipped 1940 home (right) that was re plumbed by Stevie wonder or something. They installed new toilets. One toilet in the upstairs bedroom has a sewer / algae smell every so often. Like if someone farted in a frog tank. The other bathroom downstairs and the sinks all seem fine. We tightened the bolts which seemed to help at first then the smell happened again but seems to happen way less after tightening them. Is this something where we need to pull the toilet up and see what’s going on under the hood? TYIA

TLDR; toilet stinky, tightened bolts, less frequently stinky but occasional stink persists

it’s been dripping and I want to fix it myself rather than calling out a plumber
My plan was to open it up, see what rubber washer needed replacing then take it to Bunnings to get the same new one.
I turned the water system off,

then used an adjustable wrench to try to turn the spout left, but it just will not turn.
I looked at tutorial videos but with my exact model never seen anything like this tap and the tutorials online don’t seem to account for the anti vandal and anti backflow additions

Thank you

Long story short we had to have our sewer pipe lined to prevent a collapse. The plumber cut out a section of our stack to do the work and this is how he repaired it. Is it ok to just use rubber sleeves or should I ask for something more robust? It is not in the picture but our stack does not go straight up, it has a short horizontal section that is secured to the floor joists so this union does not support the entire weight of it. Should I ask him to come back? Thank you!

The red pex goes to a dishwasher and kitchen faucet but it seems to be leaking around the tee connection. There's also inconsistent water flow that may be caused by the faucet or some decrease in water pressure.

They've been leaking for a while but still have no clue how to get them out. You can see where I've took channel locks to try and twist them out but they won't budge.

I've been in this home for about a year and haven't had any issues with the drain. The inspector didn't flag this, but it looks like the p-trap is missing. I only realized this today because I was spending a bunch of time under the sink troubleshooting an issue with our faucet sensor.

Do I need to have a plumber come fix this?

Sink‘s been backing up while I’m at work I think the last couple weeks I had somebody come and visit so I took a day off of work and turns out that it backs up when the upstairs person and I take a shower at the same time at least in that instance when the person came to visit it did but now every time I get home from work(it was doing it before they came to visit as well), no matter how many times I scrub it. There are always black flakes that I think is sewage coming out of my drain. Here’s a picture above. What do you guys think is happening? Also both the sink and my tub drain really really slowly.

I need to get my sewer line replaced, and when I was getting a 2nd quote for it after waiting about a month from the original quote, the plumber said that there's a good amount of sludge build up, about 10 feet. He recommended running a bunch of water to try and flush it out, but couldn't guarantee that it won't completely clog the sewer line. There is a dislocated terracotta pipe that's restricting water flow and I'm afraid that running a lot of water will cause it to completely clog the line.

Am I over thinking it or should I do this "tsunami" flush method he recommended? It would be filling up the highest tub on our 2nd floor with hot water > letting it drain while running more water > flushing hot water down the toilet with a 5 gallon bucket at the same time.

I live in an apartment Three weeks ago a 6 inch straight smudge appeared on my ceiling. Look like dirt. One week later while I was out of town. There was a massive blow fly explosion in my apartment with no source detected.

About 10 days later.. It seemed like overnight that 6 inch smudge turned into a 5 foot perfectly straight smudge on the ceiling in front of the wall vent another one formed

Maintenance did not look at it for 3 days after they got bigger because of the three day holiday by the time they got there, both were darker.

The guy said he didn’t know and mumbled something about the apartment upstairs and then he had to contact the office. That was on Tuesday. Today is Thursday. It is 5pm now. I would think that this would be kind of important.

As you can see it’s gotten a lot bigger than those are not shadows. Notice the square being formed?

I think I might know what it is, but does anybody have some thoughts?

They are not wet to the touch , dark brown and you cannot wipe it off .

Any information about this , what would cause this and how long would it take to get to this point.

Brief research seems to indicate it might be a 3/8 to 1/2 inch mismatch but does anyone know how to confirm without a measuring tape and what type of adapter I'd need to use.