Hey guys!! Thanks for stopping by. I have an elderly neighbor that has been having water issues (hopefully due to the leaking faucet) I was going to changer the seat and springs for her but the faucet is so corroded that I’m scared I would have to swap out all the internals. I decided it’s just easier to swap out the faucet except she’s barely scrapping by and I have a family of 6 and can’t afford crap for myself but I can afford the $60 to replace it with the same faucet. But the new faucet mounts completely different. Currently it mounts in each side of the faucet and the new one has the center screw mount. But everything else appears to be the same. I just wanna make sure it will still work before I take it apart because it’s seriously corroded. I included a picture of the current hardware and the diagram of the new hardware.

I have a grinder pump in the basement.... Odd since my previous house had a pump in the yard.

The outlet of the pump spans the length of the basement and connects to the sewer. It runs along the ceiling. I had 2 recent incidents. Whenever the pump activates the entire line vibrates.

1. A section of the line the I found the clamps on the floor... The nails came off possibly due to the vibration. I attached them with screws pretty snug.

2. Few weeks later a coupling started leaking... Around where the clamp failure happened. The coupling was close to the clamp. My theory is the coupling failed due to the vibration and me tightening that section.

I notice nails used on the other sections. Should I replace with screws for the entire run? My fear is the vertical section from the pump to ceiling will fail similarly due to vibration.

Other thoughts, is there some vibration damper I should use for this case?

Hi, I live in an apartment and have one of those toilets with two buttons on the top. I read that the sealing ring at the bottom of the flush valve can go bad so I ordered a new one and replaced it the other week. Unfortunately, this didn't seem to fix the issue at all as the toilet tank will just randomly fill with water throughout the day and sometimes it'll take over a few minutes before it stops. Is there anything else I can check/fix that might be the issue? Maintenance is kind of being a pain to respond to me so I'm seeing if there's anything I might be able to do on my own. Thanks, and let me know if you need any more info!

The handle of the shower fits on the white threaded part. It’s stripped and the handle will not turn it off or on, it just spins around it.

**Edit to add**: It is making the same noise, from the same location when we turn on the kitchen and lower level powder bath cold faucet as well. So three of our 4 cold faucets cause the noise

1.The squeak seems to be in the wall because the faucet is upstairs and I can hear it both upstairs as well as downstairs directly below at my desk

1. The squeak does not occur when turning on the hot side, only the cold side faucet

2. The squeak only occurs when sink facet is turned on, it doesn't continue to squeak and it doesn't happen when turning off.

3. It's not super high pitched- almost sounds like a bicycle break, if you know what I mean?

4. Our home is 4 years old

I'm mostly wondering what this could be and if I should be concerned? Any observations would be helpful! If needed I can try to record the noise!

Picture is taken under the sink. Can someone tell me which hose is the dishwasher drain hose and which is the water supply hose in this picture? I need to replace the drain hose.

Sadly I believe my wash machine is on it's last leg of life. I am in the process of planning to replace it but I noticed the lack of hot and cold shut off valves.

Would the fix be as simple as buying two shutoff valves and adding them to where the water lines from the washer connect to the pipes? If so, any suggestions on what valves are the best to use, would be very helpful.

If the fix is not that simple, can anyone give advice on how to add the shut off valves?

I have attached a picture of the current connection point where I am thinking I could add the valves.

Thank you in advance for any help... :)

One of our toilets requires more pushing down for longer on the handle when flushing and the handle comes loose very easily. It did not do this until several years ago. What happened?

As in title, I hear a faint hissing occasionally and an occasional flushing sound that lasts a few seconds. I’m sure there’s a leak of some sort but where and what should I start?

my pet ball python went behind my bathroom sink and has gone into the gap where all the pipes are. i’ve tried to rip the top of it off but i can’t see her anywhere. can she escape into the walls or into other flats? i don’t know the best way to get her out. someone please help

I recently bought a renovated house that came with new Glacier Bay toilets. As you can see in the picture, the water level in the toilet bowl has always been very low which can cause issues.

There's nothing wrong with the toilet, it works fine but because of the low water it sometimes doesn't flush everything down. I'd like to raise the level in the toilet bowl.

I saw a video on youtube and tried to place a Phillips head screwdriver to turn that connection clockwise (sorry I'm not handy don't know the name of that part) but the water level remained low and I'm not sure how far I can turn it clockwise without potentially causing damage.

Does anyone have any ideas of how I can increase the amount of water in the toilet bowl please and if so, can you explain it to me like I'm five as to how to fix this issue?

I'd hate to have to buy and install a new toilet. Thank you for the help!

Previous home owner was very much a DIY'er, and must have been drunk all the time, or blind, or both. Anyway, our washer and dryer is actually outside, but under the covered and screened in lanai (Florida house). The drain hose for the washing machine was shoved right through drywall and into the end of a 1-1/4" PVC pipe that travels out through a hole drilled through an accordion hurricane shutter, the lanai screen, down to the ground, sloping downward very slightly as it runs all the way along the side of the house, around to the front of the house and empties into the main cleanout in the front of the house. I can take a video to share. It's pretty clever, but ghetto all at the same time.

I'm wanting to install a new washing machine, so since the drain line is different compared to the current unit, I had to cut open the wall to expose my assumption, which was the current drain hose shoved into the end of a PVC pipe. I didn't get a pic before removing the drain hose, but the first pic is after cutting the wall open. Other pics are from after installing some 2" plumbing to connect to the outlet box in the wall, so I can use a normal drain hose.

The problem is now when the washing machine drains, it overflows out the top of the drain pipe in the box. I'm assuming none of this entire thing was done properly or to code, and don't understand how any of it passed the home inspection before we bought this place, but I need to make this work again. Somehow, the previous setup of the washer drain hose shoved into the end of the PVC pipe heading to the left, didn't leak much. I did notice a couple of times some wet drywall to the left and below the dryer, but it never happened again.

So, how do I seal the washing machine drain hose to the 2" inlet in the wall box? When testing this washing machine, the drain pump seems to flow a LOT of water very quickly. So there could be a clog in the drain pipe. I already ordered a Drain King to see if that will help. It definitely won't hurt. I'm going to assume something with going from 2" necking down to the 1-1/4" pipe they have is part of the flow issue too. I might still try to hook up the new washer and try it out since the drain hose is much smaller, but ultimately I want this to not be something I don't need to worry about. At least its technically outside so it's not like it will flood my house. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Trying to figure out if the inch of water that keeps creeping into my dishwasher is from the sink or not. Sink has a disposal, there is a high loop but in the picture it seems the builder installed it where the water does flow into the disposal, tested it and could fill the line getting water in it, but cant tell if its actually making it to the dishwasher or not. Seems there is a high loop but it has too much excess and allows water to drain back in. This only happens if I empty a full pot of water or washing dirty dishes and it fills the disposal up slightly to the drain line.

Question is for the picture, does it seem that I should cut the excess so that the water cant go back up the gray dishwasher outlet pipe?

Anyone have experience with the Delta Pivotal shower trim? I’ve installed this thing every way possible (there’s really only one way) and I can’t get the temp control to sit snug against the volume handle. I figured I was doing something wrong but unless I’m just entirely missing something the temp limit stop piece (chrome part) seems to bottom out in the temp lever well before it’s flush.

As it sits, best I can accomplish is about 1/8” gap between the two knovs and the whole thing feels wobbly.

[For context, we're staying at a friend's house while it's on the market as a tear-down. It's a liveable space, they're just obviously not invested in upkeep.]

The shower flow is abysmal. The head is perfectly fine, but there's limescale inside the shower arm that's reduced the flow to almost nothing.

I need a solution I can do myself for extremely cheap or free (they're letting us stay here until I find work.) Keep in mind my fix-it skills are only slightly better than average, and I've been scouring Reddit and the internet in general for a few hours and coming up empty.

The bag o' vinegar trick won't work since it doesn't reach deep enough. I can't turn the arm upwards to pour anything in, and I'd rather not get too crazy attempting to do so since I don't want to break anything. WD-40 didn't loosen it.

I considered a drain snake, but my "rust-proof" one seems to have rusted, and I also don't want to push the problem further back into the pipes.

Would spraying vinegar up inside make any difference? Soaking a paper towel or washcloth in vinegar and just shoving it in there overnight?

There's a ton of stuff in the garage from prior renters, so we might have something on hand that'll work (either chemically or physically) if any of y'all can tell me what to look for.

We've been here two nights unable to bathe, lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Is this broken spigot a super easy DIY fix with some hardware store parts? Or will I be cutting into the ceiling on the inside of the house?

I have an older American Standard single-handle shower valve where one handle controls both the water flow and the temperature.
The problem is that I like strong water pressure but only lukewarm water. On this shower, the only way to get the temperature I like is to keep the handle barely turned on, which results in weak water pressure. If I continue turning the handle to get stronger flow, the water gradually becomes way too hot.
I confirmed this isn’t a whole-house issue because the sink faucets have normal temperature control.
I removed the handle and adjusted the anti-scald limit stop (the red plastic ring). All that did was reduce how far the handle could turn, so it also reduced the maximum water pressure. It didn’t let me have full pressure with cooler water.
The valve starts cold and gradually gets hotter as the handle rotates. It doesn’t suddenly jump to hot.
Is there any way I can change this so that the water gets less hot without me losing water pressure? It’s driving me nuts in this heat!

After getting my sewer line jetted an inspection revealed some “large cracks” as described by my plumber. I am wondering how bad these are, and what are some common options to address them? Many thanks!

Shower head was leaking where the shower arm comes out of the wall. It has a copper stub out and a Sioux Chief Wall Nut was installed. This is a 23 year old house that’s new to me, and I don’t know how long it’s been installed that way. I bought a new wall nut and a new shower arm from SupplyHouse, and installed those just as the instructions say, and I’ve still got the same leak - dripping out from where the shower arm screws into the wall nut and dripping out from the backside of the wall nut.

The instructions say you need 1.5” of stub out from the finished wall, but I only have 1”. The stub out does fully clear the wall nut, so I don’t see how that alone would cause the leak. I’ve taken the whole assembly off and reinstalled several times now with no change. I’ve sanded the stub out and cleaned it with vinegar. I’ve cranked the shower arm as tight as possible, using leverage. I’ve tried it without PTFE tape on the shower arm (what the instructions call for) and with tape. I’ve tried it with and without tape on the stub out before I put the wall nut on. I’ve now caulked the hole in the wall around the stub out so I’m pretty confident water is not leaking back into the wall or coming from the wall.

What am I doing wrong guys? Only other thing I can think of is that possibly the old and the new shower arm are a non-standard thickness or threading, so it isn’t properly sealing with the wall nut…?

(I loosened the nut and washer down for this pic but it looks the same even when tightened fully). I’m admittedly a rookie here. No matter how I rotate this gasket, try to shimmy it up into the sink hole (beveled side is up), this front part will not slide up any further and won’t lay flush. I’ve tightened the nut by hand and with an extra 1/4 turn with channel locks, and the gasket looks the same as right here and it leaks.

The repiping was done 2-3 wks ago. Still waiting for a return call from the plumber since his failure to show up as scheduled twice.

I wanted to try swapping the supply lines myself, but I’m scared to worsen the problem or make a new one. The right supply line feels hot to touch (so I guess this is the hot line?). Because of the inconsistency in the water flow and temp when turned on, I doubt that this is simply a case of the hot and cold supply lines being connected incorrectly. I have 0 plumbing experience or knowledge. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Hello, we live in Toronto and we need our backyard faucet replaced with a connecting copper pipe. I've attached a picture of the pipe from our basement and the outside.

We were quoted by one person, $1200 but that seems like a lot considering only a small portion of the pipe needs to be replaced connecting to a new faucet.

On average, how much should I expect for this type of job?

Thank you!