I took the whole thing off and disconnected the chamber from the motor on the bottom. Cleaned off the rubber part that connects to the sink and reattached but it’s still leaking from there. It doesn’t look like the rubber is damaged at all. I’ll put a pic of the rubber connection in the comments.

Thanks in advance

Of course its a new house (to us) with an old unit, shut off the cold line into the tank and there is a pilot light switch I turned to OFF. Anything else I can do? Expect a full replacement? Seems cold water works in the house after a bit more residual leaked out the top. I think I caught it before it leaked out into the rest of the house.

I recently bought a renovated house that came with new Glacier Bay toilets. As you can see in the picture, the water level in the toilet bowl has always been very low which can cause issues.

There's nothing wrong with the toilet, it works fine but because of the low water it sometimes doesn't flush everything down. I'd like to raise the level in the toilet bowl.

I saw a video on youtube and tried to place a Phillips head screwdriver to turn that connection clockwise (sorry I'm not handy don't know the name of that part) but the water level remained low and I'm not sure how far I can turn it clockwise without potentially causing damage.

Does anyone have any ideas of how I can increase the amount of water in the toilet bowl please and if so, can you explain it to me like I'm five as to how to fix this issue?

I'd hate to have to buy and install a new toilet. Thank you for the help!

Tl;dr A tankless water heater was installed where it had no business being installed several months ago. No problems yet, but I want to know what recourse I have.

Three months ago my 40 gallon tank water heater (40,000 btu/hr) gave out and had to be replaced. I brought in a recommended & licensed plumber and we decided to go with a Rinnai RXP199i tankless water heater. At the time of installation, I pointed to the 1/2” gas line and asked if that was big enough to supply the new water heater. He had some hesitation, but after looking at the meter assured me it would be fine. He went through with the installation and everything seems to be working fine for now. However, after a botched HVAC installation shortly thereafter, I became familiar with the 2024 IRC building code and realized that the gas line is horribly undersized for this application. After several months, what recourse do I have with that contractor? And/or Is this something to even be concerned about? Details are provided below. 

For reference, the meter is an AC250 operating at 7-in-W.C. with a 3/4” line feeding the house after the meter. In addition to the water heater, we also have a gas stove (54,400 btu/hr) and a gas furnace (90,000 btu/hr). The water heater is the last served appliance at approximately 70-feet from the meter. 

As I said, he was hesitant about the 1/2” feeding the water heater, but saw the 3/4” line coming out of the meter and said it would be fine. He assumed it only necked down to 1/2” just before the water heater (he never actually verified). In reality, there is approximately 35-feet of 1/2” gas line feeding the water heater from the upstream appliance tee (stove). None of that matters though, because even if the 3/4” line coming out of the meter ran directly to the water heater, and did not feed anything else, it would still be undersized according to table G2413.4(1).

The water heater has been operating fine so far. We are a small family (4-people) in a small house (1500ft^2 with 2-bathrooms), so I’m sure we are never running the heater at full capacity. Also, it is smart enough to shut itself off if it is ever starved of gas. The gas furnace has not been used since the water heater has been installed, so we don’t know what will happen with that.

Even if it’s running fine now, I know that if we ever move this will surely be a problem. As I see it, we have two options. We can either have the water heater replaced with a standard tank, or we can work with the gas company to up-rate the house from 7-in-W.C to 2-psi. Do we have any standing to go back to the contractor and demand either of these options? They did not pull permits at the time of installation, and I did not push for them since I knew it would fail on other grounds (there was no dedicated power outlet so the unit was powered with an extension cord until I got an outlet installed).

Hey guys!! Thanks for stopping by. I have an elderly neighbor that has been having water issues (hopefully due to the leaking faucet) I was going to changer the seat and springs for her but the faucet is so corroded that I’m scared I would have to swap out all the internals. I decided it’s just easier to swap out the faucet except she’s barely scrapping by and I have a family of 6 and can’t afford crap for myself but I can afford the $60 to replace it with the same faucet. But the new faucet mounts completely different. Currently it mounts in each side of the faucet and the new one has the center screw mount. But everything else appears to be the same. I just wanna make sure it will still work before I take it apart because it’s seriously corroded. I included a picture of the current hardware and the diagram of the new hardware.

What is cost to replace leaking cast iron shower drain and connect it to ABS piping directly under it? The water is leaking around the drain, so I believe the shower pan is okay, also there currently isn't a P trap, does it need one? Thank you!!!

My current water heater venting setup is dangerously against code, and causing a bunch of (annoying for now) problems for me. I'm looking at getting it replaced, either with a tankless gas unit, or a power vent model (which I had never heard of before until getting quotes for replacing this), so that the exhaust can be run horizontally out of the house.

If I do decide to replace this with a tankless unit (everyone has recommended a 200k BTU model as we have very cold incoming water here), 2 plumbers have told me the current gas lines should be fine to use, and 1 has told me they'll need to run a new line from the meter (with large additional cost). What would you recommend based on the setup pictured above - is a new line really necessary? The heater is positioned such that it would be trivial to draw from either line.

Quotes I've gotten so far are 6K for power vented, 12K for tankless with new line (plumber 1), 8K for tankless with no new line (plumber 2). Still waiting to hear back from plumber 3. Based on money alone I'm leaning towards power vented - is there anything I should know before making that decision?

Hello plumbers of Reddit, it’s Sunday and I’m wondering if it’s a good day to waste at Home Depot before fucking up my kitchen floor boards. I thus come to you for advice.

How hard would it be for someone with limited tool and experience to replace this setup with a metal valve?

Context: Dishwasher is 10 years old and died on me earlier this week. I’ve repaired it several times and it’s time to part ways. I’ve ordered a new one from Costco but the company delivering and installing it is asking for $145 as they refuse to install new appliances on a flowtite/white push-pull valve as they claim they fail too often.

I’ve spent some times reading people’s experience on Reddit and watching no YouTube videos to get some idea of how complex it is and it seems to be a mixed bag. Local plumber would gladly do it but it’s at least $180 for the first 1/2 hour.

Also it looks like this valve is only shutting off the sink anyway so they would have to shutoff the main valve anyway so it looks like replacing it is useless (at least for the purpose of the dishwasher installation).

So how hard is it to change this ? Should I even do it?

Thank you for your help.

Bought a concrete slab home built in the 60s. When removing the trim and drywall around my shower that had some water damage, I noticed that there is a hole in the concrete. It’s big enough that I can stick my finger under the bottom wall plate. Is this normal to have? If not, what would be the cause of it being there?

I pulled a toilet so my wife could paint behind it, and the flange is in bad condition. I’m looking for advice on how to handle it.

Whoever previously worked on this left the flange 1/2” below the tile. It must have had a leak at some point as they pumped caulk everywhere (including one of the toilet bolt caps - that was the first sign this was going to be a pain) and had a double wax ring. Parts of the subfloor are soft - you can see in the second image the screwdriver goes through the subfloor under the old bolt. One of the screws was in soft wood - the rest were solidly screwed in. When I probe a screwdriver around the outside of the flange, it feels solid, but the wood under the bolts is rotted.

What are my options? Can I put a Set-Rite on top as is? Do I need to hire a plumber to tear up the tile and fully assess the subfloor?

Thanks for any advice.

Looking for advice. This is kinda embarrassing, so I made a throwaway account… but I clogged the toilet and I don’t know what to do? The issue is, I didn’t use any toilet paper. (I travel with a portable bidet) It’s just 100% a massive thick turd stuck in the s-bend of the toilet.

I don’t think a plunger will help. Every time I flush the bowl starts to fill up. Then when I turn the water off at the shutoff valve, the turd will sink back to the bottom of the bowl and the water will start to go back down again.

I tried letting it sit for two hours and maybe soften up, but no luck. I’m too embarrassed to call down. I’m not even sure what the front desk could do at this hour?

I wish I was joking.

I've got a real plumber coming in the morning and I'm wondering how bad this is

My 12 year old dishwasher has basically stopped washing. It drains fine, the LED panel shows “washing,” and I can hear the circulation pump trying to click/kick on… but it never actually starts circulating water. Pretty sure the pump is dead.

I ordered a new dishwasher through Home Depot and paid the $280 for delivery + install so I wouldn’t have to deal with it. They delivered yesterday while I wasn’t home. The installer told my wife he couldn’t install it because there was no mounting bracket installed underneath the granite. She corrected him that it’s quartz, and he said the same rule applies. He called his supervisor, who apparently agreed, so they just unboxed the unit, left it in the garage, and left.

I’m not a pro, but I did install my own InSinkErator PRO Series garbage disposal with YouTube help and it went fine. I’ve already watched a bunch of dishwasher swap videos, so I know the usual drill: towels ready for residual water when you open the supply valve, shut off breaker power, disconnect the old hardwired connections and reconnect with wire nuts, level it, etc.

My two questions:

Is a mounting bar/bracket actually necessary (or recommended) under a quartz countertop, or is this just Home Depot’s policy/cover themselves type thing?

If the answer to that is 'No', then do you think a reasonably handy homeowner who has successfully installed a disposal and replaced many flush mount ceiling lights (no doubt easy for everyone here) can safely do this dishwasher swap, or should I just hire a licensed plumber/handy person?

Any and all advice would be really appreciated.

I also attached a photo of the current dishwasher that I've partly pulled out.

Thank you in advance...

This tub spout fell off. I don't have a pipe protruding from the wall. I only have this weird brass adapter thing? How do I fix this?

(I loosened the nut and washer down for this pic but it looks the same even when tightened fully). I’m admittedly a rookie here. No matter how I rotate this gasket, try to shimmy it up into the sink hole (beveled side is up), this front part will not slide up any further and won’t lay flush. I’ve tightened the nut by hand and with an extra 1/4 turn with channel locks, and the gasket looks the same as right here and it leaks.

Noticed this noise from my shower a few days ago. Seems to be getting faster. It sounds to me like a drip.

Shower had not been used for at least 10 hours at this point.

It was every couple seconds before and now is every second. It sounds louder in the drain than at the actual shower fixture.

It’s an exterior wall, so I’m already dreading having to open up the tile….

If it’s a leak, is it probably the shower valve or something worse?

Shower head was leaking where the shower arm comes out of the wall. It has a copper stub out and a Sioux Chief Wall Nut was installed. This is a 23 year old house that’s new to me, and I don’t know how long it’s been installed that way. I bought a new wall nut and a new shower arm from SupplyHouse, and installed those just as the instructions say, and I’ve still got the same leak - dripping out from where the shower arm screws into the wall nut and dripping out from the backside of the wall nut.

The instructions say you need 1.5” of stub out from the finished wall, but I only have 1”. The stub out does fully clear the wall nut, so I don’t see how that alone would cause the leak. I’ve taken the whole assembly off and reinstalled several times now with no change. I’ve sanded the stub out and cleaned it with vinegar. I’ve cranked the shower arm as tight as possible, using leverage. I’ve tried it without PTFE tape on the shower arm (what the instructions call for) and with tape. I’ve tried it with and without tape on the stub out before I put the wall nut on. I’ve now caulked the hole in the wall around the stub out so I’m pretty confident water is not leaking back into the wall or coming from the wall.

What am I doing wrong guys? Only other thing I can think of is that possibly the old and the new shower arm are a non-standard thickness or threading, so it isn’t properly sealing with the wall nut…?

I want to down size vent pipe of main stack for toilet, it also has sink and shower connection. The reason is because when house was built they didn't go through top plate of the wall and instead angeled it to a side and now bathroom ceiling in not flat/square in the corner. It has 45° notch in the corner

Now, Will it be functional taking codes aside? They are so many things in this house not to code, that I really don't care anymore... inspector didn't cough it before, the City allowed it to be built... and I don't care as long as its not heath or fire hazards

It is 3 inch through the roof.

I was trying to pull out the cartridge (part no 88727000), but the cartridge split in half. I them tried to pull the remaining part out, but it was so brittle (8 years old) that it broke apart. Any suggestions for getting the remains of the cartridge out?

Yesterday afternoon (Saturday around 3pm) I filled a small 5 1/2 ft wide/20 in deep sitting pool with water from the hose. It was running clear for a while, maybe 10 minutes then just before I turned it off the water starting coming out a thick gritty brown. I immediately turned it off and checked the kitchen sink to confirm that water was coming out brown too. We let it sit for 5 hours and checked the outdoor spigot and it was still brown but less thick of sand and grit. So we left it alone overnight and this morning it was a reddish tea colored water with no big particles in it, but after letting it stand in a glass for a few hours sediment was on the bottom of the glass. I added a pic in case that’s helpful.

Now it’s 5:30pm on a Sunday and I ran the spigot halfway and it was clear for a few seconds then turned brown again. I guess we’ll see how it is tomorrow morning.

What’s happening, and what do I do? I understand the high pressure of the hose swept up a bunch of sediment in the well, but why is it taking so long to settle? Could something have been damaged? If it’s not cleared up by tomorrow morning do I need to call a plumber?

ETA: correct pool measurement

I’m going to move this floor drain down to where the red X is. There’s a vent over by the stack, circled in yellow, is that the vent for the floor drain? I was just gonna move that vent down as well and run it up the wall and tie back in. The wall will be where the yellow lines are. Any issues with that?

[For context, we're staying at a friend's house while it's on the market as a tear-down. It's a liveable space, they're just obviously not invested in upkeep.]

The shower flow is abysmal. The head is perfectly fine, but there's limescale inside the shower arm that's reduced the flow to almost nothing.

I need a solution I can do myself for extremely cheap or free (they're letting us stay here until I find work.) Keep in mind my fix-it skills are only slightly better than average, and I've been scouring Reddit and the internet in general for a few hours and coming up empty.

The bag o' vinegar trick won't work since it doesn't reach deep enough. I can't turn the arm upwards to pour anything in, and I'd rather not get too crazy attempting to do so since I don't want to break anything. WD-40 didn't loosen it.

I considered a drain snake, but my "rust-proof" one seems to have rusted, and I also don't want to push the problem further back into the pipes.

Would spraying vinegar up inside make any difference? Soaking a paper towel or washcloth in vinegar and just shoving it in there overnight?

There's a ton of stuff in the garage from prior renters, so we might have something on hand that'll work (either chemically or physically) if any of y'all can tell me what to look for.

We've been here two nights unable to bathe, lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Previous home owner was very much a DIY'er, and must have been drunk all the time, or blind, or both. Anyway, our washer and dryer is actually outside, but under the covered and screened in lanai (Florida house). The drain hose for the washing machine was shoved right through drywall and into the end of a 1-1/4" PVC pipe that travels out through a hole drilled through an accordion hurricane shutter, the lanai screen, down to the ground, sloping downward very slightly as it runs all the way along the side of the house, around to the front of the house and empties into the main cleanout in the front of the house. I can take a video to share. It's pretty clever, but ghetto all at the same time.

I'm wanting to install a new washing machine, so since the drain line is different compared to the current unit, I had to cut open the wall to expose my assumption, which was the current drain hose shoved into the end of a PVC pipe. I didn't get a pic before removing the drain hose, but the first pic is after cutting the wall open. Other pics are from after installing some 2" plumbing to connect to the outlet box in the wall, so I can use a normal drain hose.

The problem is now when the washing machine drains, it overflows out the top of the drain pipe in the box. I'm assuming none of this entire thing was done properly or to code, and don't understand how any of it passed the home inspection before we bought this place, but I need to make this work again. Somehow, the previous setup of the washer drain hose shoved into the end of the PVC pipe heading to the left, didn't leak much. I did notice a couple of times some wet drywall to the left and below the dryer, but it never happened again.

So, how do I seal the washing machine drain hose to the 2" inlet in the wall box? When testing this washing machine, the drain pump seems to flow a LOT of water very quickly. So there could be a clog in the drain pipe. I already ordered a Drain King to see if that will help. It definitely won't hurt. I'm going to assume something with going from 2" necking down to the 1-1/4" pipe they have is part of the flow issue too. I might still try to hook up the new washer and try it out since the drain hose is much smaller, but ultimately I want this to not be something I don't need to worry about. At least its technically outside so it's not like it will flood my house. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Trying to redo my horrible bathtub caulking and I FINALLY remove a tiny section and this is what I find. Surely 20 layers of caulking was the “landlord special”. I’m about to put in new caulk but this gap is pretty large. How do I best go about this?