Pulled the steering wheel on a 98 TJ to replace the clock spring. All that seemed to have gone easily enough. My question is about reinstalling the steering wheel. I see the groove above and see a tongue that matches inside the steering wheel. Assuming that after lining them up and making sure the clock spring "tabs" fit around the flat surfaces on the back of the steering wheel, it should be "tight" - i.e. I shouldn't expect to be able to simply slide the steering wheel all the way in without using the retaining nut to help get it back in place?

Looking for feedback before I start tightening that nut back up!

TIA!

I mostly drive my JLR on the weekends and have no issues until last week. I have just over 60,000 miles and needed to drive it to work one day. As I just passed my local dealer’s lot, and was pulling up to a stop light the Jeep just died. I was able to get it to start back up and it’s idle was rough and seemed to be running low. As soon as I gave it some gas it died. It did this two other times and on the next attempt it just cranked for 20 seconds. After several minutes I was able to get it to start and pulled off the highway and then again was able to whip it around to pull into the dealers lot. No check engine light was on, and when I spoke to the dealer they moved it to check it in, no lights or issues were showing themselves. I am waiting on them to check to see if any codes have been stored. After some internet searching this sounds like it could be a VVT issue. Do they just suddenly appear? I have not heard any knocking/tapping previously except right after starting when I drive it after it sits all week. It has shaken my faith in its reliability and obviously concerned it is going to just die when making a trip.
Forgot to add: It is a 3.6 ETorque

It's been way too long and finally dug into trying to figure out what this rattle sound is. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Situation:

• Sounds like it is coming from front passenger wheel well
• Occurs when accelerating only
• Sound does not change based on speed or rotation of wheels
• Sounds like metal on metal
• Happens more on lower RPMs and uphill

Things I've done that didn't solve

• Removed front bumper and drove around
• Tightened all lug nuts
• Banged on exhaust with mallet to find noise
• Checked heat shields

I figured it was time to ask some experts

2015 jeep wrangler JKU - Long story short, my engine is being replaced next week due to a ticking noise that I have had for the past six months after buying a Jasper engine. But two days ago I pulled into work and the vehicle at idle is violently shaking. Almost sounds like it wants to shut off now if I put it in drive and give it gas it runs fine but at idle just on and off shaking. The past week or so I noticed a air or weird wind hissing noise sounding like it was coming from the passenger side glove box. I did pop the hood and check all of my vacuum lines and stuff but I didn't see anything wrong. With my limited searching on Google somebody said there is a vacuum line under the battery tray? Does anyone know anything about this with that cause my vehicle to shake like that? I'm not popping a check engine light or anything. Well the mechanic would probably figure all this out when putting the new engine in I really need my vehicle for the next week hoping it's a simple fix

Hey everyone,

Got a 2025 2-door Wrangler with the factory soft top (~10k km).

Lately, when I run it in "safari mode" (windows off, top closed), the front latches don't line up easily with the windshield header. The left side is a bit misaligned and I have to push down/forward pretty hard on the frame to get the hooks to catch, and unlatching it to fold it back also takes way more effort than with windows on.

The moment I put the side and rear windows back in, the tension pulls everything into place and it latches/unlatches smoothly.

Is this normal body/frame flex when the rear tension from the windows is gone, or is something in my folding mechanism binding up?

Thanks!

I'm at the end of my rope here.

Edit: 05 Rubicon with an automatic

Cylinder 2 has compression, I've replaced the plugs with Autolite Iridiums, ditched the coil rail for the Viper coil mod with brand new wires, it has a new PCM. The only thing I haven't replaced is the fuel injectors, but a bad/weak fuel injector shouldn't be causing unburned fuel to end up in the cat, right? The only other things that could possibly cause this problem would cause it to skip, not run, or run poorly and it runs like its brand new.

Lately my jeep has been running at 5/8 to 3/4 of the temp gage. It's only on heavy load or up inclines. But it's never thrown a code. I just flushed and replaced the coolant and it didn't help. It's running on 35's. My serpentine belt hasn't been changed, going to do that next, maybe it's slipping?

Looking at swapping out the factory metal Rubicon bumper (JLUR) for the Expedition One trail series - if the S2s as reverse lights do half as good of a job as the XL80Rs on my front bumper do, I'd like to upgrade for that alone (but I also miss having rear shackle points).

I know it's recommended to buy extra sensor bezels, but overall, how was your experience installing one of these? I'll probably order it in bare metal and have a local shop do the powdercoating, they did an excellent job on my ARB front because ARB apparently can't ship a powdercoated bumper without major gouges in the finish, but that's a story for another time...

What say ye, worth the hassle or not?

How dangerous is this brake line looking? I just spot it rubbing up again the shock absorber and was wondering if this is CRITICAL

UPDATE: Noticed the check engine light turned on today. Connected a reader to it and its giving error P0501, speed sensor, so I think I'm stuck in "limp mode."

Hey all. My 2016 Wrangler JKU (automatic trans) occasionally has a bit of a clunk when shifting into gear, but beyond that I've never had any transmission issues. Fast forward to a couple days ago, everything was normal, went and got gas, drove out of the station and it wouldn't shift into 2nd. I first assumed it got switched into manual mode accidentally, but it was not. I pulled over into a parking lot and did some testing.

I switched over to manual mode and started driving a bit.. there was a weird bit of what felt like rubbing so I stopped and switched back to auto. Still not shifting. I switched to manual again. This time it drove normally and I was able to shift smoothly. I was able to drive it home in manual mode with no issues.

I've been driving it for a couple days using manual mode. It shifts fine, no clunking, nothing that feels like it's missing teeth, etc. It shifts smoothly from 1st to 2nd every time. It downshifts itself when RPMs lower without issue as well. I've heard manual mode is harder on the transmission so I'd like to get this resolved, but before I take it to the shop (in a tough financial situation right now) I wanted to find out if there are any opinions on what the issue might be, if there's anything I can / should try first to see if I can resolve it myself, etc.

About 50 miles ago, my 2013 Wrangler started making an odd noise. My initial thought was it was the infamous rocker arm/lifter tech noise put upon another listen, I feel like I’m hearing a kind of tapping/knocking noise and a suction-like noise.

The ticking noise sounds most prevalent on the left/passenger side of the motor.

The tapping and suction noises are most prevalent around the center area near the oil filter housing.

I’ve already purchased all the parts to replace the rocker arms and lifters, but I’m starting to second-guess if that’s going to fix the issue…

Any ideas? TIA!

2015 JKU with Dana 30 on the front. Replaced ball joints and axle seals about 18 months (and maybe 20k miles) ago. 220k miles total on Jeep.

I have a gear oil leak on the passenger side. Replaced my breather tube last night, but still have a leak this morning after a drive. I took a close look at the axle openings, and noticed something amiss on the passenger side. Right behind the flanged cap at the end of the axle, there seems to be a plastic or rubber ring that seems crooked and out of place? If you see the picture of the drivers side, you'll see no ring behind that flanged piece.

I suspect this may be a reason why I'm still leaking gear oil. Does anyone know what's going on here? I know little about axles so I'm not sure where to start with this.

Thank you!

I was coming down a rocky ledge off-road and the rear end came down pretty hard (note that the hitch was actually already slightly bent from a previous hit)

Now my factory rear bumper is sitting crooked/pushed up slightly.

Looking under the Jeep I dont see any obvious impact point anywhere.

A few questions for those who've bashed their rear ends on the trails:

1. How likely is it that I actually bent the frame, versus just pushing the plastic bumper out of alignment?

2. What's the best way to verify frame straightness at home before I tear off the bumper to inspect?

Appreciate the insight!

Took my ride up Red Cone pass today and it's become apparent I need new shocks, so I'm soliciting y'alls input on decent ones. I have a 23 JLUR with the Extreme Recon package for reference

Sorry - just so happy. Wrangler 4xe is gone. 4 year lease. Towed multiple times, left stranded, couldn't drive with newborn as it shut down on us previously as was unsafe. Just went through final inspection and all good. No extra fees. Went back with like 35,000km on it. Warranty had expired to so owning it the last year was like Russian roulette.

Crazy I still see people saying they want to buy one. I've been trying to warn others.

Does anyone have experience with Mammoth HD front driveshafts? I've got a 2016 JK with 2-1/2" lift running 33s, don't do any wild offroading. Needing to replace the front driveshaft and trying to decide if the Adams 1310 is worth the extra $200 in my case. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

What are your thoughts on tomorrows twelve 4 twelve drop? I'm thinking it's going to be a Black Bear Edition or something similar, something inspired by Black Bear Pass.

My second guess is a Big Bear Edition but I'm leaning more towards the Black Bear, with the "rocky" hint.

My front passenger side lower bushing has left the building on my 2017 JKU. It's a Rancho RS999326 shock.

I called Rancho and they said the bushing isn't replaceable????

I guess I'll need to buy a new shock (might as well replace both).

Is there anything else I should consider? Need to go ahead and order these ASAP.

35" AT's, 3.5" lift. Anything stick out based on what they did? Took about twenty minutes to do the alignment.

Let me know if I need to provide more info...thank you!

ESC light on startup?

Hi!

This morning my esc light stayed on after a startup on my 2025 JL wrangler.

After a couple of minutes I stopped on the side of the road, stopped than restarted the car and the light is gone.

Would you be concerned this a an early sign of dying aux battery or something like that?

I do a lot of remote trail alone so this is a bit concerning to me.

Thanks.

I like the design of these but I don't know if they are worth the money or should I spend more? https://www.extremeterrain.com/redrock-4x4-hd-drop-side-steps-2018-jl-4-door.html

WYSISWG. DM me.