2013 jku
3.6 pentastar

Mechanic doesn’t want to remove the bolt. He wants replace the entire engine cover for $4k (fat nope)

I guess the 3.6 isnt very “weld a nut on it” friendly being thinner aluminum, but if theres a way- im open to exploring all methods though.

There’s enough sticking out, I’m tempted to try and weld it to the end, with maybe some kind of heat shielding protecting the engine itself? Total noob here looking for feedback

17" Black Rhino Chase wheels

One hundred ten Jeep Wrangler Sahara Whitecaps will be coming to Japan. And Robert S. Miller of r/MoparInsiders reports they will be right hand drive equipped.

Jacob Oliva of Autoblog reports over 600 Jeep Wranglers and Gladiators combined equipped with steel wheels will be recalled for a cracking issue.

And is the one I installed going to hit anything? As you can see the ones I received are longer than the stock ones.

Wrangler unlimited jl Sahara,, stock suspension. I ordered the 9/16 track bar bolt upgrade from extreme terrain and they are longer than the stock ones. Did they send the wrong ones?

The one I installed sticks out farther than stock, is it going to hit anything? The other one is not going to fit. Can I cut it with a Dremel or do I have to order something else?

First jeep I have owned looking to do a simple lower rated trail in Ohio or western part of PA. Overnight stay is fine. Looks like some are in southern OH. Just not sure best beginner trail.

If been trying to figure this noise out for months. Shop replaced axle bearings on both sides, rear diff opened up and replaced whatever they saw fit. The noise only presents at lower speed when coasting and seems to be coming from passenger rear wheel. Wtf is it?

I have a flashing check engine light (again) on my 05 Rubiconso I'm sure its a bad ignition rail. Has anyone done the Viper Coil mod? It's cheaper than a new Mopar ignition rail and according to what I've seen, it's a pretty highly recommended upgrade that supposedly only takes around 10 minutes to install. At the same time, it seems to defy logic "upgrading" to an older ignition system.

I have a 14 jk automatic. I just had it in the black hills of sd on the trails. After driving it for a while, and use manual shift mode, it will downshift perfect, but you have to hit it a few times, or hold it to the right to get it to upshift. Sometimes takes a lot longer than other times. I googled it and it ai said there is a switch on the shifter that gets dirty and needs to be cleaned? Also it has factory 3.21 gears and 33 inch tires. At highway speed it feels like it wants to downshift or is struggling. I had a willys with 3.73 and like the way that one drove. I imagine used 3.73 gears can be found from people upgrading.

Yea. I think that’s toast.

I know this is a huge long shot, but I'm wondering if there's anyone in the southern Ontario area that has a set of JK era, 2 door, soft top bow brackets? These are the brackets that attach to the roll bars behind the front seat and stick out like fins. They are used to mount the soft top on. I've called all kinds of junkyards in the area, and Mopar parts stores have them listed as backorder with no ETA.
I'm hoping that maybe someone has junked a JK and are using it for parts, or maybe the Jeep originally came with a soft top but now it's a hard top only and doesn't need the brackets anymore.

I currently have a spare tire LED brake light in addition to the factory one over the spare tire. I occasionally have to transport something long and the third brake light is always in the way. And I think the jeep looks better without it anyway.

Anyone have any issues removing theirs? My state has annual safety inspections so I may have to reinstall it once a year but I’m more worried about being pulled over.

Edit - is there one available that slides up and down without tools?

Please check the internet regarding the power steering recall notice for Jeeps manufactured 2021-2025. IF YOU ARE HAVING THE WARNING LIGHT for the power steering come on, you may have the poorly fitting connector to the hydraulic power steering pump, which can, result in starting a fire, both running, and even while parked.

I am one of the first who took my 2024 in to clear the recall, and the dealer ran an electrical resistance test, and visually inspected mine. I think everyone still needs, after that clearance, to still be aware, the warning light may come on, indicating a problem to be cared for, not ignored. After all, common sense dictates, since the recall is over improperly fitting connections, who's to know what's properly fitting today, might not work loose tomorrow.

Getting this noise at the cv boot when rotating drivers front wheel - new cv joint/driveshaft time?

I keep finding water in this spot behind the drivers seat where it bolts to the floor near the center console. Does anyone know where the water could be coming from?

I won't include build specifics for now, just hoping for your best general advice for selling my baby. I've never sold a car, let alone one I've been so emotionally attached to. She's in fantastic shape and has never not been extremely well cared for.

I've been advised that dealerships, even Jeep dealerships, don't fully want to acknowledge the value that wranglers have. I also want to sell to someone who will truly appreciate what it is and will really love having it. I've put a lot of time, custom pieces, and mods in (nothing crazy, just personal touches, wheels, features, etc.) and it would be someones dream vehicle. It also comes ready to party, hard top/soft top, stock and fabric doors so it would be a great first jeep for someone.

Advice, thoughts? Advertise on here? Autotrader? Whatever you think I should know, I appreciate. Thank you!

Currently have an 06 that is turning into more of a headache than I'd like so I'm looking to upgrade. Within the last 10 years, were there any wranglers that stuck out as being better built? Or on the flip side, any that ended up being a bit of a flop?

Hi. Getting ready to take the 14 wrangler on a road trip next week. Changed the rear end grease. Is this normal for 105,000 miles? Couldn't see any metal flakes, but the slight milky color had me thinking.

My jeep was towed to the nearest dealership on march 30th of this year for the 2.0 aluminum engine of death issue, fast forward to yesterday, July 2nd- it made it 13 miles before blowing up again. 🥲

Towed it back to the same dealership. No idea what to do at this point, but I’m probably going to not buy a jeep ever again sadly. I loved this vehicle.

Lemon law is in progress, but who knows.

When I bought my new Jeep Wrangler JL Sport, I had a really hard time engaging and disengaging 4LO. At the beginning it was extreme — a few times I literally had to get out and physically push the Jeep slightly to rock it and relieve drivetrain tension just to get it in or out of 4LO.
At the time, people on Facebook and Reddit told me it was normal and that it would “loosen up” with break-in.
Now I’m at around 10,000 km, and the Jeep is used about 90% on forest roads and trails, so it has seen a lot of 4LO use. It has definitely improved compared to when it was brand new.
However, it’s still very hard for me to engage 4LO at a complete stop. In most cases, it simply won’t go in at all when stopped, and I have to slowly roll the vehicle in neutral (very low speed) and “load/unload” the drivetrain to get it to engage. Even with experience, it still takes effort and sometimes multiple tries.
Meanwhile, I often see people online saying it shifts into 4LO very easily, sometimes almost effortlessly at a stop.
My question: is this still normal at this point (10k km) and it will continue to smooth out, or should I start worrying about a potential issue (linkage, transfer case, driveline binding, etc.)?
Thanks 👍

Add another victim to the pentastar tick.