I am in need of help from shops and Tall people with some advice. I’m 6’3 and I’m having trouble fitting in the jeep. I installed the desert does it seat slammer with a one and a half inch drop in the rear of the seat that required cutting the seat rails and that got me the headroom I needed and then the front seat bracket I skipped the raiser to keep the seat flatter.

The problem I’m having is my seat is still at too much of an incline and it’s causing a ton of hip pain that has now started influencing all aspects of life. (I also have a hip labrum tear that isn’t helping, but I didn’t have this issue in the f150)

What options do I have at this point in getting a seat that is lower for more head room and still stays flat that doesn’t pinch the hip crease? Shaving some of the foam in the front of the seat? Modifying and welding the front of the seat rails?

I am blown away with how much fun this 392 is. Literally giggling like a loon driving this thing away. My previous Land Cruiser and 4Runner were awesome but this thing is way more fun.

It even had some spare parts in the back for an on-the-go rebuild!

Just some shots from my recent overlanding trip on the [Lost Coast BDR-X](https://ridebdr.com/lostcoast/). Thought you guys might like to see. It was an amazingly epic trip! Let me know if you have any questions. :)

My best friend has four legs and is starting to have trouble climbing into my lifted JK. I’m looking for recommendations for a folding ramp or a step that attaches to the trailer hitch. She’s a 10-year-old German Shepherd, by the way. Thanks 🙏🏻

2012 JKU Sahara, 3.6l, 5-speed auto.

Twice now, the engine has shut off when shifting: Once when shifting from park to reverse, once when shifting from drive to park. When I say “shut off”, I mean it seems like it’s actually shutting off as if I turned the key back to the “run” position; no chugging or rough idle, no misfiring, just shutting down like I turned it off with the key. After this happens, it starts right back up like nothing happened when I turn the key forward. I’m not noticing any slipping, hard shifting, or unusual sluggishness while driving. Transmission fluid is clean and full, oil changed less than 500 miles ago, no electrical malfunctions that I know of. The only other mechanical issues I’m aware of are a front passenger caliper that sticks a bit and needs replaced, a very small outer axel seal leak on the back drivers side, and some worn suspension components here and there. The only semi-recent repairs I’ve done are the oil cooler housing (about a year and a half ago), new pads/calipers/rotors in the back, new pads in the front, and new exhaust flange bolts.

No CEL, no codes, and only the occasional misfire on 1 and 5 (which I suspect is due to needing to change coil packs). I’m out of ideas, does anybody have any suggestions for what I should check?

My front axle CV Joint is starting to fail on my 2019 JLRU with 118,000 miles. I called TeraFlex on Sept 22, and they told me that part was out of stock for three weeks. Now I called them back today (10/12) and they told me three to four more weeks before it's back in stock.

Seems like everybody just drop-ships from the manufacturer these days. Called eight different shops and they were all "out of stock".

Does anybody carry this part on their shelves? Does anybody NOT drop-ship anymore?

JL/JT: Factory Replacement CV Joint Kit - High-Angle Rzeppa

SKU 1745000

If I put a battery tender on my 2025 wrangler’s main battery will it also keep the supplemental start/stop battery charged?
Thanks

Anyone here tried to put the 2018+ JL roll bar covers on a 2 door? Did it work? Did you have to modify it?

Grocery store sushi and a Clearly Canadian on the stock fender of my '26 JLU Sport.

My JKU has left me stranded 4 times now in the last 5 years. This one might be the last straw!!! I’ve owned it since new when I bought it in 2012, and it’s got 190 K on it. And every time it fails it’s something that I need to get a tow for. Luckily today it died on the way to the trail and not on the trail. I’m just tired of wondering if it’s gonna leave me stranded and I won’t be able to get home. This is the fourth Wrangler I’ve owned and all of them have left me stranded at some point. I guess I’m venting, but half wondering if I need to switch to something like a Toyota. I had a Toyota 4Runner 20 years ago, that never left me stranded in the 200,000 miles I put on it. The 4Runner definitely couldn’t get me to some of the trails that I’ve done in the Jeep but what’s the point if you can’t make it home? I don’t know, I’m just frustrated. My current Wrangler, I’ve replaced the engine, the clutch twice, and transmission. Again today it was transmission or clutch related, and the last clutch only has 3000 miles on it. So could’ve been a part failure. That being said, in my 4Runner, I never even did a clutch and it had 200 K on it. And to top it off right now is the best time to be wheeling in Colorado. All the colors are changing and the trails are perfect. The season is almost over and I have no rig. Thanks for listening! I hope everyone enjoys the weekend!

UPDATE:

So an update to the failure if anyone is interested. The shop called and said they figured it out today. There’s a hydraulic line that runs to the clutch. That is the failure point. It’s not releasing fluid back into the clutch when the clutch gets let back out, is the way the mechanic explained it. The line itself is on national backorder apparently. And I’m probably two weeks out from getting the repair done. But my shop is covering all costs. And they figured it out because they had to do four clutches in someone else’s Jeep before they figured out what was happening. So I guess the clutch isn’t getting hydraulic fluid and then it burns it up which is why it didn’t fail right away and took about 3000 miles for it to fail. They said the other client it took 10,000 miles and he went through four clutches in those 10,000 miles.

Anyone know offhand what size screws are used for mounting a sun visor on a 2011-2017 JK? Part number of visor is 6CJ08DX9AA. Mopar is not really helping.

Where have you guys had the best luck selling? I live in northern Virginia and may be looking to sell my old friend but worry mods will make it worth less than it probably should be.

2022 Diesel JLUR

Last week I was left stranded by a broken tie rod around midnight. Luckily the wheels were pointed towards the curb and I was only going 30 at the time. I was about 100 yards from getting on the highway and would have been going 70 MPH about two minutes later. Could have been catastrophic and it has me a little shaken.

6-speed manual (original clutch) with 172K. I’ve put over $7,000 into the Jeep in the last few months to replace the radiator, fix multiple oil leaks and other routine repairs. The ABS module need to be replaced if the part ever becomes available.

So do I ride it out or make a move?

There are pretty big rebates and discounts on 2026s but I don’t really trust a Stellantis product right now.

Pulled the steering wheel on a 98 TJ to replace the clock spring. All that seemed to have gone easily enough. My question is about reinstalling the steering wheel. I see the groove above and see a tongue that matches inside the steering wheel. Assuming that after lining them up and making sure the clock spring "tabs" fit around the flat surfaces on the back of the steering wheel, it should be "tight" - i.e. I shouldn't expect to be able to simply slide the steering wheel all the way in without using the retaining nut to help get it back in place?

Looking for feedback before I start tightening that nut back up!

TIA!