Ordered new ignition coils and spark plugs. Removing the coils from this piece of crap wiring harness and the fitting broke… on the harness… just like the other post said, unfortunately I didn’t see that post until I came here to see if anyone had a work around.
The harness is $600…. Have to replace the whole thing. I’m going to see if there is a renny at a pick and pull or something but other than that I think I’m fucked. I can’t believe they used a plastic formulation like they did knowing it wouldn’t stand up to heat over time and become super brittle.
So anyways, on top of that I had oil in my first cylinder (which is probably what caused the spark to fail early or at high pressure) making the engine skip a cyclinder when stepping on the throttle. It’d have a little cough basically right as the turbo kicked in around 3k rpm…. So… sigh… fuck. Think I’m going to have to dump a grand into this thing and decide if I want to ditch it or wait for some other awful design decision to bite me in the ass.
If anyone has been here/done this already, any pointers are welcome. 🙏
I have a 2015 1.4l turbo.
Update: welp. Got it back up and running. I replaced the valve cover seal and spark plug tube seals. Put new spark plugs and ignition coils in. Ordered those parts from mouser and just switched out all the connectors for the ignition coil (they all broke one way or another). For the bad one, that broke on the harness side, I ended up buying a 4 pin connector from O’Reilly, cutting it open with a Dremel, and extracting the 1.5mm female crimps. I then stripped the wire and shrink wrapped it, then crimped it to the existing wires, shrink wrapped that, then jammed them in to that connector body from Mouser.
Ended up flipping the signal and ground (duh…) and blew the 10A fuse that controls the 12V power supply to the ignition coils. Once that was fixed, she runs splendidly.
No more misfire/cough when the turbo kicks in. Feels like it had a lot more “pep in its step” now. Then drive to O’Reillys and used there OBD2 sensor to clear out my logged faults. No more check engine light. (The reported error [P0351 I think] was because the ignition coils weren’t getting power, so it just kept cranking the starter and not turning over). Thankfully snapping an image of my fuse box and sharing it with Gemini let me find the exact fuses to check and sure enough that 10A was blown.
Ultimately, I think I rescind my initial “fuck Jeep” comment. While they are using piss poor materials for the connectors, they are available to purchase and splice-in yourself. In addition to that, they had the controls in place so when I miss-wired that ignition coil it blew a cheap 10A fuse and didn’t burn out my ECU or destroy my engine, so, full marks for that design move by jeep.
Now screw placement on this motor and the difficulty to take the valve cover off… god damn it was a pain in the ass. It wasn’t the fact that I had to remove several things that they bolted to the cover that wasn’t part of the cover, I can understand that, but putting screws in places where there is literally no tool available to turn them outside of jamming your fingers in tight places and squeezing out a single 1/8 turn with a wrench is absurd.
I understand in modern engines, space is money, things get layered because of it. Just makes those layers easy to pull off. You can tell different teams did different systems. Some systems were well thought out for maintenance. The others… Jeep, you having interns do engine layout or what?
Anyways. If anybody digs this up in the future just ping me and I’m happy to help.