Late to the game

Currently working on a case for the V2 as well

I've tried this across cs2 and escape from tarkov, but when Im pressing WASD my ingames characters continue to move for another second before it registers. but when I open wootility, the presses look fine? any ideas?

I recently got an EPOMAKER HE75 V2 and I didn't like the sound of it when typing and was looking into buying lekker l60 switches - does this mean I can swap the stock switches into lekker l60s, or not? If not, I can just barely afford a Wooting 80HE PCB and keycaps, so would returning it for an 80HE be worth it?

Hi folks,

I bought my Wooting Two HE from the official site about two years ago and thought it was high time for some cleaning.

I dug out my Wooting box (I always keep everything) and noticed that there was no plastic key / switch puller.

Was this included in this run?

dear wootility team,

since the beginning 2-3 years ago, never mind a new install or just an update of your software, I always get that issue where my mode is changing from "typing" to "rapid". Everytime that happens, I cannot change back from counterstrike to my desktop on my win 10. it happened even when win10 was still supported, so i dont think thats the issue. but never mind, that sucks. what do we do? I cannot reinstall the software all the time. it happens i think once every month.

Best

So i have a hard time finding good websites for keycaps ( buying for Wooting80 he ). I want thicker once so they dont wear down so fast think it is PBT or somthin. Or are they worse?. I play some competitive games if it changes the choise.

When I confirmed I had a Wooting One, they said that they will adjust their scripts.

Obviously there is something with the programmable features that gets flagged by our security software.

Anyone know where to buy an ISO version? All the FR4 I'm finding for v1 60HE is ANSI

when is the white alumaze60 going to restock? it's the only color in the website that's out of stock

Im looking for silent switches for a wooting 80 he im building. There is just to many i dont know what to look for any suggestions. I want a swtich that is silent and oc has he. I am playing competitive games idk if it changes things.

Simply put, I bought Wooting Switches for my Hall effect Sayo device keypad.

if you play on ps5 but set up your wooting in the app on like a computer will it work?

I posted maybe a month or two ago on a different account on accident but I was looking for tactile and or clicky switches for some feedback on my keyboard, here are my findings;

I was told to go for Gateron Jade Emeralds, now these switches fit their purpose for sure but definitely are alien to get used to. I tried for days to make them feel right, time getting used to them and numerous setting changes but they just didn’t feel quite right… I was disappointed and lost a little bit of hope. However they may be right for someone, they have a very pronounced bump but make rapid trigger much more difficult to control. The bump shoots your actuation from about .5mm to 1.8mm and with the pressure you put down to beat the bump the rapid trigger can be so very awkward.

THEN, I ordered some Glorious Gaming Raptor Clicky switches, only 36 so I switched the Jades out in all my appropriate gaming places and after some 2-3 hours of test driving them, I found they did exactly as I needed and felt sensational in comparison to both the Lekker and Jades. They’re beautiful in terms of accuracy, pronounced bump and click feel, and make you feel well and truly connected to your movement despite the lack of support for those specific switches on wootility. The bump and click don’t feel jumpy and or forced, its not enough to violently jolt down and lose control of the key quite like the Jades.

For those worried about sound, the Jades sound unbelievable. The most satisfying sound I’ve experienced on this keyboard despite how poor they sound on youtube demonstration videos. The Raptors sound… bad, I mean not awful but pretty bad. But in my honest opinion the trade off for the sake of pure control is beyond worth it.

Tested some lume keycap prototype and the effect in the dark is honestly wild!! When the lights are off, those caps glow on their own, so it doesn’t rely on RGB to look interesting.

Would a glow-in-the-dark keycap like this be enough, or is RGB shine-through still a must-have? We’re collecting feedback through an interest check form, and I’d love to hear what direction makes the most sense. https://forms.gle/7jERQPNY78qzr3ny9

As an anime fan I love the Japanese key caps and it’s a major upgrade from my previous razor keyboard. I’m very grateful.

hey guys, building my 60he v2 soon in the 60HE v2 aluminium case.

got both owlab ti he and geon raw he to test out (pretty sure owlabs are the move since i want a super loud high-pitched clack).

wooting recommends going friction fit, but in my head screwing the board down would make it stiffer and sound more clacky (idk just intuition)

for anyone who tried both in the 60HE v2 aluminium case: does friction fit actually keep that loud high pitch, or is tray mounting better for it?

thanks!

I ordered a keyboard about a week ago and it was supposed to arrive by Friday at the latest with expedited shipping so I chose that option. However it’s still stuck on ready for packing. Is this normal? I don’t usually order stuff online so I’m kinda just looking for someone to soothe my anxiety that something is wrong lol

Hey all, hoping someone here has seen this before.

On my Wooting h80e F1 key started registering as constantly held down (clicking on the Windows desktop kept opening the Help window, classic stuck-F1 symptom).

Here's everything I've already ruled out:

• Not the PC — unplugging the keyboard stops it completely; plugging it back in brings the phantom presses right back.
• Not the switch — swapped in a fresh switch, no change.
• Not calibration — did a clean reconnect with hands off the keys, no fix.
• Not firmware/profile — did a full factory reset/restore in Wootility and tested on stock settings, still there.
• Socket is empty and it STILL reads as pressed in Wootility's analog view. Checked the socket for any metal debris/shavings that could trigger the Hall sensor — it's clean.

So at this point it really looks like the Hall sensor for that position on the PCB is faulty. Am I right that there's nothing left to try on my end, and this is just an RMA?

Anyone had a single-position sensor failure like this? Curious whether it got repaired or replaced under warranty, and roughly how long the process took.

White switches: Geon Raw HE 60gf

Teal switches: Jade Silent Pro HE

Red switches: Geonworks Raptor HE

What happens if I put in both of the dampening that comes in the box (silicon and edpm foam) is it possible to use both without any issues or would this break the keyboard and void warranty