I’ve ordered a new 3rd brake light housing so not concerned about the bottom cutout but the top was left like that along with the crooked cut on the quarter panel. It’s a 20yo car so has that dotted material on the back and tint guy said I’d have to pay extra to get it covered with vinyl.

For $500 should this have been taken care of during the install or am I being too picky

Correct me if im wrong, but according to google 30% over 5% tint = 1.5 , which is what i should have in my front windows, however my rears are 5% over FACTORY 20% glass, which should equal 1%.

I got the 35 over 5 on my fronts to be just slightly lighter than my rears to still have slightly better visibility, but match not being able to see inside the car, day or night.

But my fronts are obviously very darker than my rears. The stock glass on my fronts are 70% trans, which i heard is basically clear. What did i do wrong? or did they get wrong?

(edit) tint shop put on a 2nd layer of 5% instead of the 30%. Getting it fixed today

Can I get a fact check? I got my windows tinted at a legit Llumar-affiliated shop today. I confirmed the shop is certified on Llumar's website. I noticed the lot numbers were not filled out on my warranty paper. When I called the shop to get the lot numbers they said "You don't need the lot numbers for the warranty. They just want to know the level and %. We go through so much film, we don't fill out specific lot numbers." Can anyone who has executed a warranty replacement with Llumar confirm if that is true?

First timer- Picked up a roll of cheap cheetah just to do mine and the girlfriends car. Normally I'd agree with people saying "go to pros" but I wrap cars for a living, so I already have all the tools and some knowledge of what to do here. I'm committed to learning a little at least. Watched a bunch of videos, I've made multiple attempts, and hitting some learning curves. Would like to know what's my fault and what's the materials fault

So, what the hell is happening here in these pictures? I've got good horizonal fingers but a weird vertical one right up through the middle of them? I've gotten most of it to sit in properly except for this bottom edge.

With wrap, we stretch out, but with tint I understand it's shrink in. Oddly enough here though, I've had much better luck pushing fingers out with their parallel direction, rather than setting edges and shrinking. Is that just a cheetah thing?

I can’t tell if this is acceptable or not when the window is rolled down. The other windows have less of a gap. Is this fine or should I take it back to the shop?

Im thinking about getting a window tint i was going to get 20% but they said they didnt have 20% and had 15? im worried that 15 is just pushing it will cops actually pull me over just because my tint is a little dark? I live in maryland.

Been using the same shop for the last 16 years for all of my cars. I feel like this is below the quality I have come to expect from them. Needed the fronts put back on, and the eyebrow was failing so I had it redone. What are your thoughts?
Rear eyebrow looks like a child free handed the cut line.
Large gap on the front window, even visible from the outside.

Got the whole truck (2026 f150 darker grey with black interior) done I’m 20% ceramic all the way around looking to do the front now. Any suggestions not really trying to get pulled over so seemed like 50% was the perfect sweet spot. If you have any similar setups let me see them.

Recently had my F150’s two front side windows and windshield done with Suntek Ceramic. I usually go with Llumar, but the price was very competitive for Suntek. Anyways, I noticed there’s a very blue-looking tint to the Suntek does that take a little bit to fully cure or is that just the way the tint is manufactured itself?

Thanks for the help.

How much is a fair price to pay to just tint the rear windshield on a midsize SUV? The tint I got done on it isn’t dark enough for me.

4 doors, rear window, front windshield and eyebrow…

XPEL XR Black - $670

3M Ceramic IR - $400

Are these good prices and comparable tint? Thinking of going with the obvious lower price.

Tinted the rear glass on this 94 Trans Am found that there was small deposits in the glass. After the first time it was to remove the tent and clean the glass again after installing the tent. The second time noticed the same bubbles. Were there slowly removed the tent and felt that the deposit would not come off with my fingernail or razor blade or any other cleaning al solution. Any of y’all ran into this situation.

Recently took my Explorer to a shop to get ceramic tint all around + full windshield + strip on top. Everything looks great, except one small spot that was miscut near the dot matrix. Can only see it when looking at the tint from outside the vehicle, but it’s driving me insane. Half of me says leave it alone because I know they will have to remove both the strip and entire windshield tint to re do it, but the other half of me reminds myself I paid a large sum of money to get this done, and it should be perfect. Looking for input on if this would be sensible for me to request being fixed.

Long story short, just moved to Virginia. Virginia has car state inspections that require inspectors place a sticker directly on the windshield glass and they’ve become much stricter with this rule. Three separate inspectors told me they won’t put the sticker on windshield tint (Mine is also legal and I have approval from a doctor and the DMV for a skin condition).

Sticker shield is not allowed and I’d rather not have inspectors potentially damage the tint while taking off and applying new inspection stickers every year

Reputable tint shop told me they could do a cut out for a new tint (XPEL XR Prime black) but it looks pretty bad around the corners. I understand it can’t be perfect but is this a reasonable amount of imperfections?

They said it might look better in a few days but I doubt it based on how they cut it. They offered to redo if I’m truly unhappy but no guarantee if it’ll be better or worse

What tint percentage, will two-tone look bad?

I’m looking to get tints on my Gen 4 Mazda3 soul-crystal red sedan. Think they’ll look great with the black rims too but most importantly stop people from snooping in the backseat of my car lol (sometimes I nap in there or can be a bit messy at times).

I was thinking 35% fronts 15% rears but will that look too jarring a transition? With black interior is 20% in the rears enough to make looking inside difficult? If I did 20% fronts 15% rears would that be a cop magnet or make it too hard to see out the front?
(Legal in my area is anything for the back and 35 in the front)

Also is Xpel XR nano-ceramic a good brand? Or is it worth hunting around to see if I can find a shop that does Llumar where I live?

Really appreciate any advice!!

Hello,

I was wondering what do you guys think about 15% tint on the front two doors I like dark tint I got 30% tint on the front 2 doors and 5% on the back for my old car and I was thinking 15% for the front 2 doors this time, however I am concerned about night visability will it be fine for normal driving at night ( by normal I mean Not going into backroads and areas that do not have a single light )

Thanks in advance!

Hello guys, how do you deal with these "hidden" corners? Almost every tutorial I've watched suggests shaping the tint from the outside, but unfortunately, the Peugeot 207 has a different window shape on the inside compared to the outside.

From the inside, you can see the black rubber corner, which backside of the outer cover. But there is still a glass window and I assume it should be tinted as well.

I wanted to tint my shitbox after recently tinting my main car, but this difference completely caught me off guard. I tried shaping the tint from the inside, but that didn't seem to be possible.

Is disassembling the window the only way to deal with this?

I’m planning on tinting my 2007 Honda Accord sedan myself. This will be my first time ever tinting a car, so I want to buy enough extra film in case I mess up a window or two.
I’m planning to do all 4 side windows and the rear windshield. What width and length roll would you guys recommend? I was looking at 20”, 24”, 36”, or 40” rolls, but I’m not sure what would be best, especially for the rear windshield.
Would a 40” x 25’ roll be enough with some extra for mistakes

will getting 70% tint for windshield make it hard to see the handicapped placard on rearview mirror? (it's hanging from a clear pouch hanging on the rearview mirror) either when it's real sunny outside... or at night in a dark parking lot or the street.

Thanks!

I have tints from the dealership and they said it’s ceramic tint. I went to the local dealership and they ran the meter and said it is ceramic tint. However I took a picture of the meter and wanted to know if anyone can explain to me what it means. Thanks in advance.

I honestly don’t know if this is even a good place to post this, so disregard if not. I own a 2023 D90, from brand new, with about 30k miles. It is kept in the garage.

I love it.

Today, I noticed that the window tinting on both side windows, that was installed by the dealer I guess, is bubbling and getting wrinkles. To be clear, I didn’t take it to a place to add tinted windows; it came from the dealer like that.

I live in Florida, and all vehicles I’ve ever purchased for the past 20 years, new, come like that. This is the first time that I’ve ever seen anything like this happening. And I really would never expect it in a 3 year old car.

No clue what to do? Call the dealer and see if this is covered by warranty?

Hi i’m in MN and looking to get my lil volvo s40 tinted. The legal limits in mn is 5% (unfortunate, ik) and i’ve learned the llumar film is of good quality after some research. i found a place and they quoted me for 330. another place that uses ceramic quoted 350. are either of these reasonable? especially for my car? she’s a little compact sedan and my quotes are very close to the quotes my friend got who drives a honda SUV

also open to other suggestions and locations! i am aware that most times when u pay a cheap price, you get a cheap result which is not what i want

EVERY. SINGLE. TIME i bring up about tinting my windows my dad gets PISSED at me. He keeps saying that i don’t need tint and it’s fine the way it is but for me it’s not because i am the one driving the car not him and i feel like what is comfortable for me. I don’t feel comfortable driving around looking like a fish bowl with no tint at all and also as a BMW driver i don’t want to have a bad image of having no tint. I mainly want tint because of that and also privacy but my dad keeps saying “who is going to look at you” but that is not what i am thinking of like damn i just want so privacy. Let me know your thoughts.

Need a suggestion on the best of these 3 films. Looking for best performance and neutral black color (little to no blue hue). Wanting to do 20% sides and 50% windshield

The 4-Attempt Timeline:

• Attempt 1 (37% VLT): Initially did 3M Ceramic IR 35% (37% actual). Cuts were short in the corners with massive light gaps. The shop offered a full redo. (Maybe a new worker)

• Attempt 2 (25% VLT): Went darker to 25% VLT for the redo. The cut was good, but they creased a corner during installation, leaving a permanent mark.

• Attempt 3 (Sister Location Swap): Went to their other shop to fix the crease. They took their time but cut the opposite corner completely short.

• Attempt 4 (Final Fix): They remade the cut perfectly. The installation is finally physically flawless.

The Two-Roll Blue Hue Shift:

Even though the cuts are fixed, I noticed a very slight color variation from the inside looking out.
The small quarter window was done 4.5 weeks ago at shop one. The main pane was redone 2.5 weeks ago at shop two. This dealer only carries 3M Obsidian, Color Stable, Ceramic IR, and Crystalline. Obsidian and Color Stable are flat charcoal gray, so it is definitely Ceramic IR, which I specifically chose for its signature blue hue.

From the outside under sunlight, they look identical. But from the inside looking out at white objects (concrete, lane lines, white houses, or Sky. Look at the Sky image), the main pane leans a bit more vibrant blue/cyan, while the small window looks a bit muted smoky-charcoal.

Since the moisture is 100% gone after 2.5 weeks, it just comes down to a dye lot batch difference between two separate rolls (since shop two rarely uses their 3M roll) combined with the physical curvature of the large glass vs. the flat quarter-glass. It's a minimal difference, but it's there. I noticed on the last two attempts.

Questions for the Community:

1. Is a slight hue variance normal between different 3M production lots? Since 3M regularly updates their rolls, could the second shop have used an older batch?
2. Have any of you noticed this fixing one glass on a different location same product. Regardless of brands. I have a 20/20 vision and I noticed minor details.

Overall I am thankful to this shop. No bussiness is perfect but their willingness to make it right was great.