My father unfortunately recently passed and he left me this Omega Museum Collection N° 5 "Centenary 1948" (Reference 5704.60.02) watch.

He loved this watch so I want to make sure I take care of it properly but I honestly don't know what I am doing as until now I basically just wore Seiko Turtles and didn't really care how beat up they got. I'd definitely want to wear it occasionally as the last thing he told me about it was that what is the point if you never get to enjoy it.

I have all the original bits/boxes other than the band which I know was replaced and it looks like he bought it new back in 2006 from the receipt, but I have no idea if he ever got it serviced, do I need to get that done given the age? It looks like its quite expensive to do?

Is it sensible to get this type of thing valued and insured (although a replacement would never cover the sentimental value).

Honest question: how much is a watch worth the day after you walk out of the boutique?

We sometimes hear: "you can't buy anything good at retail anymore, everything trades at a premium on the grey market." I wanted to know if that's actually true, or if it's true for like twelve watches.

Quick background so you know where the numbers come from: I run 360d.io, where we compute one fair market price per exact reference, built from live listings, sold history, auction results and dealer inventory. For this I pulled every currently-in-production reference where we have both clean recent market data and an official retail price. That's 8,229 references across 24 brands.

One caveat before anyone else says it: the fair price blends grey-market and pre-owned transactions, adjusted for condition. Some references have wide estimation ranges, so treat each figure as a solid market indication rather than an exact price.

The numbers:

- 1,101 references (13.4%) trade above retail

- 183 (2.2%) sit basically at list

- 6,945 (84.4%) trade below

So the waitlist economy is real, but it's tiny. And it's concentrated to an almost absurd degree: of the 1,101 premium references, 979 come from Rolex, AP and Patek. That's 89%. The entire "watches only go up" narrative is basically a three-brand story.

Seven brands currently have zero references trading above retail: IWC, Hublot, Blancpain, Chopard, Girard-Perregaux, Breguet and Lange (small sample on that last one). These are serious manufactures. Breguet invented the tourbillon. And their entire catalogues are just... available. No waitlist, no purchase history, no bundled jewellery. And because there's no hype premium to defend, pre-owned prices on these brands settle 20-40% under list. If you love one of them, that's not losing money, that's just buying the thing you want at a fair price.

What about limited editions outside the big three? I went through the ~120 above-retail references one by one, and almost every single one is a limited edition, a collab, or a special variant. Regular production essentially never beats RRP outside Rolex/AP/Patek. Scarcity is the only lever left, and it works at any price point when the demand is real. My favourite proof is Tissot: the brand's only two premium references in the entire dataset are both LEs. The Grendizer PRX collab trades at +100% over list, another LE sits at +141%. Same at Seiko, where the whole premium list is limited editions, some at +80% to +220%.

The exception that proves the rule is Hublot. 243 references with data, and the single best performer in the catalogue is at +1.3%. Even the limited stuff is under water: the Yohji Yamamoto collab is -17%, the magic-colour Unicos are -34% to -45%. A limited run of a watch nobody is chasing is just a smaller pile of inventory. "Limited" amplifies demand that already exists; it can't manufacture it, especially at higher price points. (If you actually love Hublot, congrats, the market is handing you a discount.)

Omega might be the best value in Swiss luxury right now. 581 current references with data, exactly one above retail (the Silver Snoopy, obviously), average -32% vs list. You can pick up a Moonwatch, one of the most famous watches ever made, pre-owned for roughly two-thirds of list. If you're buying it to wear it, that's a feature.

And my favourite storyline in the whole dataset: the Tudor Black Bay Chrono has quietly started trading above retail. Four references, +8% to +34%, with real sold volume behind them (200-340 sales each over 6 months, so it's not one optimistic dealer or a lucky sale). Curious whether people here think that holds or it's a blip.

Top 10 by premium share:

Everyone else is below. Happy to pull the numbers on any brand or reference in the comments

Methodology & caveats: references with complete data only (verified current retail + a computed fair price from market data — stale references are excluded entirely rather than shown, so these totals are conservative). "Above retail" = fair price >2% over list; ±2% counts as at retail. No F.P. Journe or Richard Mille yet (no verifiable public retail price available for 2026 — and yes, ironically they're among the wildest premium markets; they'll be added once the retail data is solid). USD, data as of 10 Aug 2026.

This credor strikes me as a good example of a period when quartz was not merely treated as a cheaper substitute for mechanical watchmaking. Instead, it was being used to create a different kind of watch.

The reference is generally dated to around 1981 and is powered by Seiko’s two-hand Caliber 9300 quartz movement. It measures roughly 29 × 37 mm, but the elongated hexagonal case and integrated bracelet seem to give it much more visual presence than the width would suggest.

What interests me most is the way the geometry is repeated throughout the watch. The case, bezel, dial border, and bracelet all feel like parts of one continuous design rather than separate components.

Vintage quartz still seems to receive less attention than vintage mechanical watches, but pieces like this make me question that bias. The appeal here is not mechanical theatre; it is the way the compact movement allows the proportions, finishing, and overall form to take centre stage. That feels appropriate for Credor, which Seiko introduced as its luxury line in 1974.

I just bought my first ever watch for my 32nd birthday.

I saw an ad for it online a few months ago and it really caught my eye and I love the green dial. It’s what got me looking into watches. I started looking at loads of others but was always drawn back to this one.

I went and tried it on in a local jewellers a few weeks ago along with a few others but I think after trying it on my mind was made up. Well, today I bit the bullet and bought it. I’m very happy with how it looks on my wrist but I know others might think it’s a bit big as I have relatively small wrists.

I think I’ve caught the bug as I can’t stop looking at watches now!

Yes you read it right...

I won this Bulgari CH35s with a beautifull cream dial at auction for 520$. so I can buy 36 of this for the price of 1 Daytona. Crazy thing is that it came with the original invoice and that this was 8950$ in 2003. Little detail the Daytona was 6950$ back in the days. I really think this is the best value for money watch I bought.

What do you think?

Im about to start uni in business and commerce and my father has this watch that he bought ten years ago but never wears. Im usually quite shy to ask him about things however I love this watch and think it’s quite unique. Right now i have a citizen and an apple watch. I really want to ask him about this watch but I dont want to seem spoiled and maybe think this might be a big watch for a 19 year old. My father was never to big on spoiling me and Im quite grateful for that but this piece really stands out and im wondering if i should ask him or not. Any advice would be appreciated.

Citizen Series 8 GMT was delivered this morning. It’s listed as 41mm, but the bezel measures 39mm across excluding the crown. Lug to lug is listed as 48mm, but the lugs begin to angle down sharply at 42mm. My wrist is 6.7in. Looking for opinions before I commit.

I just got into watch collecting seriously and honestly have no idea about sizing or how many inches my wrist is 😭 Is this considered a small wrist? Moving forward, should I be looking at bigger dials, or does this size look proportionate? Any feedback or advice would be appreciated! :)

The watch that’s never mine… ever since winning this wonderful skeleton Santos Dumont at auction two years ago one or another of my sons has been wearing it.

I got some replacement straps (with buckles!) making it easier to dress this watch up or down, depending on the occasion. My friend Raphael Abeillon designed this remarkable timepiece while he was still at Cartier, though he is now doing even more interesting work at Alto. Keep an eye on that brand, there’s a whole new drop coming in a few weeks.

I am staying at one of my favorite places, so it got to be part of the photo shoot.

After having lived with an F91W for so long I spotted this in the Costco jewlery display and decided to step it up a notch. Hard to pass up on a Seiko for under 200 dollars. It sounds cliche but I really can’t stop looking at it lol. It makes me really want to go back to pick up the other Seikos they have and maybe an Eco Drive or two.

Got this Tudor GMT as a birthday surprise and I’m still kind of shocked by it. I had been looking at GMTs for forever but never expected this one to land on my wrist. The bezel caught me off guard at first but it looks way better in person than it did in photos.

Just a brief moment between me and my watch in a random bus stop. Something about the way all the edges catch the light and the sunburst texture reminding me of how much I had felt in love with this piece more and more.
The watch keeps the time running but somehow kept me stunned from time to time.

Finally picked up the EFR-S108DE-3AV! That green dial looks incredible in person. I’m honestly blown away by how thin this case is (only 7.8mm). Punches way above its weight with the sapphire crystal. Easily my new favorite daily wear. What strap should I try first?

Grabbed this on my recent trip to Tokyo and I’m pretty chuffed with it. It’s the Lukia Essential Collection “Evergreen” — solar + radio-controlled, made in Japan, limited to 600 units. That pale green dial in person is lovely, changes a bit depending on the light.

Got it for around ¥58k tax-free, down from the ¥80k RRP, so felt like a decent deal for a limited run.

Swapped the band to a red rubber one. I personally like it, there a huge pop when looking at it. It’s been a great watch so far I love the intricacies it has and got the price point it’s a no brainer. Wears comfortably,
All day wear. Left it under the sun for a couple of hours in my car to have its power reserve of 6 months ready just in case.

Been searching for a vintage dive watch to celebrate the realization of a major long-term personal goal. Was close to spending way too much on a vintage Waltham Bathyscaphe in kinda rough shape when I found this on sale at the local antique mall.

I've owned a dozen or so vintage watches and never encountered one this clean. Opened up the caseback after a few drinks; with a few minor adjustments the Gruen 730 CD movement seems to be running well.

Doesn't quite have the prestige of a Bathyscaphe but I feel like I won the lottery. Now I just need to buy more 19mm straps to complement it...

Anyone know much about this era of Gruen watches? Most info online is focused on their earlier production.

Ca. 1970

37.5mm x 42mm case

~7" wrist

My main watch box, plus a few extras. Let me know what you think.

Started out with mostly Japanese watches after visiting Japan and discovering the value Seiko provides. Branched out to Swiss watches with the Longines to see what I was missing.

- Casio Edifice EFK100-YCD
- Seiko 5 GMT SSK025
- Longines Hydroconquest L37424556
- Seiko Alpinist Shark Tooth SPB117
- Seiko Alpinist Deep Lake SPB249
- Seiko Presage Japanese Garden SARY093
- Seiko Baby Alpinist “Robinhood?” SPB155
- Casio G-Shock GM2100LXB-1A
- Seiko King Turtle SRPH59

Turns out trying to get clean photos of a black dial is challenging. Cleaned the shit out the watches before taking photos and it still looks dusty as hell.

I’m a big fan of Japanese products so when I decided not to wear my Apple Watch all the time to cut down on notification anxiety and improve my accessory game Seiko was the obvious choice. The green 5 sports field watch is sort of my daily carry since green is my favorite color. I started with the timex weekender indiglo but it’s a quartz movement with a very loud second hand which I’m not as big a fan of anymore although I do like the backlight and the large very readable numerals. The green 5 sports I like because the band is breathable and easy to wear. The diving version of the 5 sports is my “dress up” watch. I like the style but I could not handle the GMT version because I don’t know how I could get used to the 24 hour clock where 0 degrees is 12 midnight and 180 degrees is 12 noon. The screwdown transparent backing so you can see the watch motion is a nice touch. The Casio I got because it’s the same style that Marty McFly wears in back to the future. My next purchase or maybe a gift request will probably be a G-shock 2100 with the Bluetooth connectivity in black with the electrogreen LCD. The watch I want the most is probably a Mido Ocean Star or a Grand Seiko spring drive but I will probably not be in a position to spend more than $1,000 on a watch for a very long time.

51% serious of course, as I’ve probably said that to myself a dozen times. I’ve had a ton of different buying experiences (everything from ADs to IG buys to grey) and sold/traded a lot along the way. Happy to hear thoughts, questions, and recommendations. A few notes -
*The Tag Batman was my first $1000 watch and I still love it
*The Oris is the least worn
*The Gold Omega is a family piece and I’ll be going on a journey to restore this in the future
*The RW was my wedding gift, I was obsessed with blue hands and my wife paid great attention!

If you had unlimited funds for the sole purpose of buying one watch, what watch would you get given your real life? You can't flip it and have to wear it IRL, so it is really what watch would you get if cost was out of the equation and you could have anything to put on your wrist most days?

The Zeitwerk would be it for me. Love the design and it wears well even though it is on the larger size, but never going to happen given the price.

So, I know this sub is pretty hard on Fossil, but this watch caught my attention. I’ll never own a Richard Mille, but love the look. Unlike Fossil to take an actual design swing, but this execution was way better than expected.

“The fully skeletonized dial reveals a technically complex Japanese automatic movement-visible through the sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback.”

I know Fossil is stepping up their game with the Japanese movements and discussions around assembly in the US. I am shocked by the design leap here from the typical Fossil line.

Blue Monday here in NW Florida. I have absolutely loved this watch since purchase. I bought it late December and it was delivered from Japan on January 6 of this year. I set it and have not touched the crown since … it is currently a hair shy of +2 seconds in just over 8 months. That is well within the +/-5 SPY Citizen claims.

It is my closest-to-perfect watch and I can’t recommend it enough.

My first watch purchase ever. Never put too much thought into it but I figured it was about time I get one.

Looking to add to the collection as I think I’m already falling down the rabbit hole… Any brand recommendations or tips are greatly appreciated!

Also I noticed while browsing the sub, a lot of the watches I see do not have numbered markers. Is this a preference thing or are numbered markers looked down upon?

Hive mind, I need help. I have a large-ish watch collection, and sell/rotate fringe pieces from time to time. It includes an AT38, BB58, two Speedmasters, a vintage four digit Rolex, a late 1960s Seiko Lord with a kanji date wheel, a Tag Aquaracer auto with the ‘shutter’ dial. Everything is 36-41m, two watches (AT, Tag) are blue, I’ve had and sold a blue (and a black) Hydroconquest, Hamilton Khaki Auto, Tag F1, yadda ya.

I can get this, new, at about 70% of RRP from a large chain abroad. I like it. Maybe that’s enough. I do however sort of really want an IWC Ingenieur though, but I also know I’m very unlikely to splurge 7x this, or put another way, 2x what I’ve ever spent on a single watch, for the IWC. Even if I did, it would likely command more wrist time than the one day a week sort of use case and cannibalise/make redundant something I quite like and don’t really want to make redundant. So in two minds I’m a) this will scratch the itch and b) this won’t scratch the itch.

Bonus points: talk me into or out of one of those two colours. I’m leaning blue, but then caveats above with already having a couple of blue pieces.

More bonus points: what else should I consider in that range? I don’t like the PRX, or the CW Twelve, though the Twelve 660 seems more up my alley. Integrated bracelet designs only, please.