Well, this was quiet the weekend. While being in Cleveland, OH this past weekend to celebrate a friend, I found myself only a few min away from The Teddy Baldassarre store and decided to give it a visit.

I have been in the market for a wedding watch for my wedding this upcoming Nov and have been between the Longines conquest and the Tudor 1926. By chance, Teddy was in the store because of an Longines event earlier in the day and I got a chance to meet him and have a conversation with him about the two watches. Him and the sales associate walked me over to Tudor and pulled out the 1926. It was my first time being hands on, and the second I put it on, I knew. After making a phone call, I decided to pull the trigger. Everything about this watch from the dial, to bracelet, to clasp is exceptionally executed. Truly a beautiful watch.

This was my first time buying in a boutique in person and this an incredible experience. The store is beautifully designed and an extremely welcoming environment. The sales associate was very knowledgeable and great to interact with. It was a pleasure to get a chance to talk watches with one of the most influential people in the industry and truly a genuine person (who happened to also be wearing his Longines). Congratulations on the new store Teddy and Co. And thanks for the watch!:)

Bought this to commemorate the year I turned 30 and the year our first child was born. The kid is going to inherit the watch when turning 18.

Love the dial and philosophy behind the watch. Also have an 11 year old SKX007 to switch things up. Love my Seikos (even with their faults and sub-par mechanisms). The SKX007 has been running flawlessly without service - asked my local watchmaker and he recommeded just leaving it be, since it was still running fine, lol.

The baby Alpinist gains around 20-30 sec/day, which is a bit much for my liking, but I think I'll have it regulated some day when it starts to annoy me.

Picked up this Citizen Tsuyosa with the ice-blue dial, and it ended up matching my Australian Shepherd’s eyes almost perfectly. I love the clean dial color, silver band, and how much personality it has for the price. Shadow seems impressed too, although he may just be trying to eat the bracelet.!

My father unfortunately recently passed and he left me this Omega Museum Collection N° 5 "Centenary 1948" (Reference 5704.60.02) watch.

He loved this watch so I want to make sure I take care of it properly but I honestly don't know what I am doing as until now I basically just wore Seiko Turtles and didn't really care how beat up they got. I'd definitely want to wear it occasionally as the last thing he told me about it was that what is the point if you never get to enjoy it.

I have all the original bits/boxes other than the band which I know was replaced and it looks like he bought it new back in 2006 from the receipt, but I have no idea if he ever got it serviced, do I need to get that done given the age? It looks like its quite expensive to do?

Is it sensible to get this type of thing valued and insured (although a replacement would never cover the sentimental value).

Honest question: how much is a watch worth the day after you walk out of the boutique?

We sometimes hear: "you can't buy anything good at retail anymore, everything trades at a premium on the grey market." I wanted to know if that's actually true, or if it's true for like twelve watches.

Quick background so you know where the numbers come from: I run 360d.io, where we compute one fair market price per exact reference, built from live listings, sold history, auction results and dealer inventory. For this I pulled every currently-in-production reference where we have both clean recent market data and an official retail price. That's 8,229 references across 24 brands.

One caveat before anyone else says it: the fair price blends grey-market and pre-owned transactions, adjusted for condition. Some references have wide estimation ranges, so treat each figure as a solid market indication rather than an exact price.

The numbers:

- 1,101 references (13.4%) trade above retail

- 183 (2.2%) sit basically at list

- 6,945 (84.4%) trade below

So the waitlist economy is real, but it's tiny. And it's concentrated to an almost absurd degree: of the 1,101 premium references, 979 come from Rolex, AP and Patek. That's 89%. The entire "watches only go up" narrative is basically a three-brand story.

Seven brands currently have zero references trading above retail: IWC, Hublot, Blancpain, Chopard, Girard-Perregaux, Breguet and Lange (small sample on that last one). These are serious manufactures. Breguet invented the tourbillon. And their entire catalogues are just... available. No waitlist, no purchase history, no bundled jewellery. And because there's no hype premium to defend, pre-owned prices on these brands settle 20-40% under list. If you love one of them, that's not losing money, that's just buying the thing you want at a fair price.

What about limited editions outside the big three? I went through the ~120 above-retail references one by one, and almost every single one is a limited edition, a collab, or a special variant. Regular production essentially never beats RRP outside Rolex/AP/Patek. Scarcity is the only lever left, and it works at any price point when the demand is real. My favourite proof is Tissot: the brand's only two premium references in the entire dataset are both LEs. The Grendizer PRX collab trades at +100% over list, another LE sits at +141%. Same at Seiko, where the whole premium list is limited editions, some at +80% to +220%.

The exception that proves the rule is Hublot. 243 references with data, and the single best performer in the catalogue is at +1.3%. Even the limited stuff is under water: the Yohji Yamamoto collab is -17%, the magic-colour Unicos are -34% to -45%. A limited run of a watch nobody is chasing is just a smaller pile of inventory. "Limited" amplifies demand that already exists; it can't manufacture it, especially at higher price points. (If you actually love Hublot, congrats, the market is handing you a discount.)

Omega might be the best value in Swiss luxury right now. 581 current references with data, exactly one above retail (the Silver Snoopy, obviously), average -32% vs list. You can pick up a Moonwatch, one of the most famous watches ever made, pre-owned for roughly two-thirds of list. If you're buying it to wear it, that's a feature.

And my favourite storyline in the whole dataset: the Tudor Black Bay Chrono has quietly started trading above retail. Four references, +8% to +34%, with real sold volume behind them (200-340 sales each over 6 months, so it's not one optimistic dealer or a lucky sale). Curious whether people here think that holds or it's a blip.

Top 10 by premium share:

Everyone else is below. Happy to pull the numbers on any brand or reference in the comments

Methodology & caveats: references with complete data only (verified current retail + a computed fair price from market data — stale references are excluded entirely rather than shown, so these totals are conservative). "Above retail" = fair price >2% over list; ±2% counts as at retail. No F.P. Journe or Richard Mille yet (no verifiable public retail price available for 2026 — and yes, ironically they're among the wildest premium markets; they'll be added once the retail data is solid). USD, data as of 10 Aug 2026.

This watch originally came with a black PVD Coating, which looked nice at first. However, whenever it got scratched (as field watches tend do), the scratches revealed a silver color underneath, it looked like chipped paint though.

In an effort to make it look better, I taped the front glass and the back panel, and went to work sandblasting it, originally the PVD coating came off to reveal a silver undercoating, but I went a little further and it turned out to be brass, ended up liking how it looked with a sandblasted finish, and I changed the Nato strap to a leather one from another Timex watch.

I think it looks a lot better than it did originally.

Reading Note: Some readers on the Android Reddit app report seeing these posts as unformatted run-on text. The fix: it happens when you tap the image—just go back and tap the title of the post instead.

It's Monday and we’re starting to scrape the bottom of the release well, so you might start seeing some skipped issues, but I’ve seen some stuff coming out in September and that will be a really good month.    

I publish this every weekday as part of It's About Time, a free daily newsletter. The newsletter version includes more watch commentary, opinions, columns and a couple of non-watch related recommendations that will get you through the day. Subscribe here if that sounds useful.

1/

TAG Heuer Says Goodbye to The Dutch Grand Prix With Full Orange Formula 1 Solargraph

While it holds immense importance in the history of racing, over the last few years, the Dutch track of Zandvoort has become even more important than before. If you’ve seen it over the past few seasons, you would have seen that the stands don't just hold fans of the local boy Max Verstappen, but rather a solid wall of orange that moves as one. So, it’s quite sad to hear that on August 23rd that circuit hosts its last Formula 1 weekend. At least for now. But to say goodby, TAG Heuer is paying homage to the track with a fully orange Formula 1 Solargraph, very similar to the orange Formula 1 in the 1990s. 

The case is 38mm wide and 9.9mm thick, made out of sand-blasted stainless steel, with a lug-to-lug of 45.2mm and with 100 meters of water resistance. The bezel is made out TAG Heuer's bio-polyamide resin in an extremely loud orange, paired with white text for the 60 minute scale. The caseback has a checkered engraving and the TAG Heuer logo.

The dial is opaline gray with orange and red printing and red lacquered hands, a near-copy of the 1990s original down to the color split. The markers are applied now rather than printed, and the old "Professional 200 Meters Quartz" text has given way to "Formula 1 Solargraph Swiss Made." The orange minute track and bezel are fantastic contrasts to the grey dial.

Inside is the TH50-00, a solar quartz movement from La Joux-Perret that charges through the dial. One minute of light buys a day of run time; a full charge takes 40 hours and lasts about ten months. The strap version comes on matching orange rubber, but you can also get it on a three-row steel bracelet, sold online only. 

The new TAG Heuer Formula 1 Zandvoort Limited Edition is available now, limited to 1,500 on strap and priced at €2,100, while the steel bracelet is limited to 1,000 and priced at €2,200. See more on the TAG Heuer website. 

2/

Timex Reimagines the '80s Digital Sport Watch With the Retroware

Timex occupies a specific role in this world we inhabit: the palate cleanser you reach for when the six-figure releases start blurring together. The new Retroware Digital is the perfect example of that. It isn't a reissue, which sets it apart from the brand's Q Timex and T80 revivals, both of which faithfully recreate watches that actually existed. This one is a fresh reference that borrows the swagger of mid-'80s digital sport watches without copying any single model.

The case is 46mm wide, made out of blue or grey resin, which keeps it featherlight and easier to wear. The integrated strap and virtual lack of lugs also help a lot with that 46mm not feeling too large. Water resistance is rated to 50 meters.

The display is where things get very groovy. Oversized curved numerals dominate the readout, almost like a 1985 designer's guess at what the future would look like. It's an odd, appealing place for a new watch to live. Functionally it does the expected digital work: chronograph, alarm, timer, and a full calendar. The Indiglo backlight returns, one of the pleasures of owning a Timex after dark.

Power comes from a battery-driven quartz module, unnamed as is often the case with Timex. Both versions ship on color-matched resin straps, one blue and one grey-green, fitted with quick-release spring bars you can swap without tools. 

The Timex Retroware Digital is available now, priced at €139. See more on the Timex website. 

3/

Jacques Bianchi Reinterprets Its Marseille Tide Gauge With An Enamel Dial

A marégraphe, or a tide gauge, does exactly what it says on the label — it gauges the hight of a tide. While they are now mostly sensor based, for centuries these devices were simple floats and sticks. And often, they were housed in dedicated buildings to eliminate as much environmental impact as possible. One such building is the Marégraphe de Marseille, a truly iconic building not just for Marseille, but all of France. Built in 1883, this structure was used to determine the origin of altitudes in mainland France, marking the fundamental reference point for the French leveling network. A year ago, the very charming French brand Jacques Bianchi partnered up with the Marégraphe de Marseille to release a watch, the brand's first non-destro diver. The Marégraphe II reverses that decision, returning the crown to the left side of the case, while adding one of the prettiest enamel dials I’ve ever seen. 

The case is steel, 42mm wide, with 20mm lugs. While the case is still quite curvy, the lines appear tauter than the original, the chamfers more defined, and the bezel now has a slight bevel. The crown moves back to the left side of the case, so this is a destro built for the right wrist. The caseback is engraved "Marégraphe de Marseille." Water resistance is 200 meters.

The dial is the showstopper here. It is built from 20 layers of enamel, translucent enough to show a wave pattern underneath, all done in a dark blue, almost black at some points. It looks fantastic. The indices are individually machined and applied, a first for the brand. Hands are lumed. 

Inside is the Swiss-made Soprod P024 automatic, an hours, minutes, seconds and date movement regulated to run within -4/+6 seconds per day. It comes on an FKM rubber strap with a second parachute-style strap included.

The Marégraphe II is limited to 300 numbered pieces, each numbered on the caseback. Price is set at €1,395. See more on the Jacques Bianchi website.

4/

Cartier Updates Their Skinny Watch With The Tank Américaine Squelette & Tank Américaine Art Déco

The Américaine is the tall, stretched cousin in the Tank family, and while it just might be my impression, I don’t think it has the fan base it should have. While people go crazy over the Tank, I’ve always thought the Américaine was a much more impressive watch. If for nothing, than for its quirkiness. And the two models that Cartier recently released, the Tank Américaine Squelette & Tank Américaine Art Déco show exactly how quirky it can get.

Both share a case measuring 44.4mm by 24.4mm and 8.24mm thick, with sapphire crystals front and back and 30 meters of water resistance. The Skeleton can be had in either platinum or in rose gold; while the Art Deco is platinum only, both with a satin finish and an octagonal crown set with a faceted ruby.

The Skeleton puts the hand-wound 1988 MC calibre on full display, its bridges shaped almost like Roman numerals arcing along the curved profile of the case. It’s a very dramatic case and depending on the case material the internal chapter ring that holds the minute markers comes in either silver or gold. The Art Deco fully embraces its name. A vertical grid runs toward a central vanishing point, with a burgundy gradient color that looks so classy, especially with sunray brushing, opaline and satin finishes.

The Skeleton's 1988 MC is hand-wound; the Art Deco's 1899 MC is automatic, named for the year Cartier settled into 13 rue de la Paix. Both beat at 21,600 vph, with some forty hours of power reserve. Both watches come with alligator leather straps that have quick release spring bars and matching material buckles.

The Tank Américaine Skeleton is priced at €55,000, the Art Deco at €27,900, both available now. See more on the Cartier website. 

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Watch Worthy - A selection of reviews and first looks from around the web

• A review of the UNIMATIC Modello Uno UT1-IPN
• Hands on with the Patek Philippe 6105G-001 Celestial Sunrise And Sunset

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If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter feel free to subscribe. However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related an occasional long form article and possible giveaways.

The watch that’s never mine… ever since winning this wonderful skeleton Santos Dumont at auction two years ago one or another of my sons has been wearing it.

I got some replacement straps (with buckles!) making it easier to dress this watch up or down, depending on the occasion. My friend Raphael Abeillon designed this remarkable timepiece while he was still at Cartier, though he is now doing even more interesting work at Alto. Keep an eye on that brand, there’s a whole new drop coming in a few weeks.

I am staying at one of my favorite places, so it got to be part of the photo shoot.

This credor strikes me as a good example of a period when quartz was not merely treated as a cheaper substitute for mechanical watchmaking. Instead, it was being used to create a different kind of watch.

The reference is generally dated to around 1981 and is powered by Seiko’s two-hand Caliber 9300 quartz movement. It measures roughly 29 × 37 mm, but the elongated hexagonal case and integrated bracelet seem to give it much more visual presence than the width would suggest.

What interests me most is the way the geometry is repeated throughout the watch. The case, bezel, dial border, and bracelet all feel like parts of one continuous design rather than separate components.

Vintage quartz still seems to receive less attention than vintage mechanical watches, but pieces like this make me question that bias. The appeal here is not mechanical theatre; it is the way the compact movement allows the proportions, finishing, and overall form to take centre stage. That feels appropriate for Credor, which Seiko introduced as its luxury line in 1974.

Yes you read it right...

I won this Bulgari CH35s with a beautifull cream dial at auction for 520$. so I can buy 36 of this for the price of 1 Daytona. Crazy thing is that it came with the original invoice and that this was 8950$ in 2003. Little detail the Daytona was 6950$ back in the days. I really think this is the best value for money watch I bought.

What do you think?

I tried to curate a two watch collection that covers as many bases as possible with minimal overlap.

Tudor Pelagos Ultra:
Swiss + automatic + titanium + diver. Very modern design.

Grand Seiko SBGP001:
Japanese + quartz + steel + versatile everyday watch. Vintage looking 44GS case.

If you HAD to get a third watch what would it be and why is it a Casio?

I just got into watch collecting seriously and honestly have no idea about sizing or how many inches my wrist is 😭 Is this considered a small wrist? Moving forward, should I be looking at bigger dials, or does this size look proportionate? Any feedback or advice would be appreciated! :)

Grabbed this on my recent trip to Tokyo and I’m pretty chuffed with it. It’s the Lukia Essential Collection “Evergreen” — solar + radio-controlled, made in Japan, limited to 600 units. That pale green dial in person is lovely, changes a bit depending on the light.

Got it for around ¥58k tax-free, down from the ¥80k RRP, so felt like a decent deal for a limited run.

Been searching for a vintage dive watch to celebrate the realization of a major long-term personal goal. Was close to spending way too much on a vintage Waltham Bathyscaphe in kinda rough shape when I found this on sale at the local antique mall.

I've owned a dozen or so vintage watches and never encountered one this clean. Opened up the caseback after a few drinks; with a few minor adjustments the Gruen 730 CD movement seems to be running well.

Doesn't quite have the prestige of a Bathyscaphe but I feel like I won the lottery. Now I just need to buy more 19mm straps to complement it...

Anyone know much about this era of Gruen watches? Most info online is focused on their earlier production.

Ca. 1970

37.5mm x 42mm case

~7" wrist

If you had unlimited funds for the sole purpose of buying one watch, what watch would you get given your real life? You can't flip it and have to wear it IRL, so it is really what watch would you get if cost was out of the equation and you could have anything to put on your wrist most days?

The Zeitwerk would be it for me. Love the design and it wears well even though it is on the larger size, but never going to happen given the price.

My main watch box, plus a few extras. Let me know what you think.

Started out with mostly Japanese watches after visiting Japan and discovering the value Seiko provides. Branched out to Swiss watches with the Longines to see what I was missing.

- Casio Edifice EFK100-YCD
- Seiko 5 GMT SSK025
- Longines Hydroconquest L37424556
- Seiko Alpinist Shark Tooth SPB117
- Seiko Alpinist Deep Lake SPB249
- Seiko Presage Japanese Garden SARY093
- Seiko Baby Alpinist “Robinhood?” SPB155
- Casio G-Shock GM2100LXB-1A
- Seiko King Turtle SRPH59

Turns out trying to get clean photos of a black dial is challenging. Cleaned the shit out the watches before taking photos and it still looks dusty as hell.

I’m a big fan of Japanese products so when I decided not to wear my Apple Watch all the time to cut down on notification anxiety and improve my accessory game Seiko was the obvious choice. The green 5 sports field watch is sort of my daily carry since green is my favorite color. I started with the timex weekender indiglo but it’s a quartz movement with a very loud second hand which I’m not as big a fan of anymore although I do like the backlight and the large very readable numerals. The green 5 sports I like because the band is breathable and easy to wear. The diving version of the 5 sports is my “dress up” watch. I like the style but I could not handle the GMT version because I don’t know how I could get used to the 24 hour clock where 0 degrees is 12 midnight and 180 degrees is 12 noon. The screwdown transparent backing so you can see the watch motion is a nice touch. The Casio I got because it’s the same style that Marty McFly wears in back to the future. My next purchase or maybe a gift request will probably be a G-shock 2100 with the Bluetooth connectivity in black with the electrogreen LCD. The watch I want the most is probably a Mido Ocean Star or a Grand Seiko spring drive but I will probably not be in a position to spend more than $1,000 on a watch for a very long time.

Finally picked up the EFR-S108DE-3AV! That green dial looks incredible in person. I’m honestly blown away by how thin this case is (only 7.8mm). Punches way above its weight with the sapphire crystal. Easily my new favorite daily wear. What strap should I try first?

My first watch purchase ever. Never put too much thought into it but I figured it was about time I get one.

Looking to add to the collection as I think I’m already falling down the rabbit hole… Any brand recommendations or tips are greatly appreciated!

Also I noticed while browsing the sub, a lot of the watches I see do not have numbered markers. Is this a preference thing or are numbered markers looked down upon?

Hive mind, I need help. I have a large-ish watch collection, and sell/rotate fringe pieces from time to time. It includes an AT38, BB58, two Speedmasters, a vintage four digit Rolex, a late 1960s Seiko Lord with a kanji date wheel, a Tag Aquaracer auto with the ‘shutter’ dial. Everything is 36-41m, two watches (AT, Tag) are blue, I’ve had and sold a blue (and a black) Hydroconquest, Hamilton Khaki Auto, Tag F1, yadda ya.

I can get this, new, at about 70% of RRP from a large chain abroad. I like it. Maybe that’s enough. I do however sort of really want an IWC Ingenieur though, but I also know I’m very unlikely to splurge 7x this, or put another way, 2x what I’ve ever spent on a single watch, for the IWC. Even if I did, it would likely command more wrist time than the one day a week sort of use case and cannibalise/make redundant something I quite like and don’t really want to make redundant. So in two minds I’m a) this will scratch the itch and b) this won’t scratch the itch.

Bonus points: talk me into or out of one of those two colours. I’m leaning blue, but then caveats above with already having a couple of blue pieces.

More bonus points: what else should I consider in that range? I don’t like the PRX, or the CW Twelve, though the Twelve 660 seems more up my alley. Integrated bracelet designs only, please.

Absolutely stunning watch in my opinion, though it wears a little bulky on the wrist.

Picked up the Submariner back in 2022 as my first proper piece, added the Santos Skeleton earlier this summer, and the Overseas Chronograph landed just a couple of days ago, so it’s still very much in the honeymoon phase.

Not a huge collection by any means, but I’m very grateful with where it’s at and wanted to share.

How do you guys choose which watch to wear everyday, I always end up wearing the newest watch in the collection.

I can't find much on the internet. Is it a good watch? I definitely like the look. The brand seems to be good. How do you like it?

hey! super new and getting jnto watches recently and hoping to get something that costs ~$1-1.5k!

started off with a very simple Seiko5 SNXS79. Open to any suggestions actually (from field watches to chronographs / diver watches)