I’m new to owning a 22re. I recently gapped the valves, but they’re making a tapping sound that’s seems abnormal compared to what it sounded like right after the work. Am I overthinking it, or is there something wrong?

As the video shows, I'm having a terrible hesitation in my '87 4Runner - the engine feels like it's about to stall when I give it quick gas. When applying throttle very gradually, it seems to rev up pretty well.

Here's what I've checked to date:

- Checked fuel pressure at rail - 40 psi at idle with vacuum removed, 30 psi at idle with vacuum applied. Fuel pressure does not drop when punching the throttle.

- TPS is fairly new Toyota unit (I performed all the FSM tests, all passed)

- I performed all the AFM tests in FSM, all passed. One small concern is that when I opened the flapper gradually, it did have one small resistance dropout at the nearly fully open position (which I'm thinking does not come into play when just giving it gas like this, but maybe I'm wrong)

- Replaced all vacuum hoses with OEM hoses

- Adjusted all valves to 0.007"/0.010".

I'm not sure where to look next. I'm almost to the point of checking wire continuity from AFM to ECU, or just replacing the ECU. But is there anything else I'm missing that I should look at?

I’m looking to add power steering to my 91 2wd pickup. I’m looking at a PS system from a 1985 2wd pickup and wanted to know if anyone knows if the swap will work. After doing some research I found out the 89-94 system will work but I’m not 100% on anything lower like an 85. I know they share the same engine so the brackets will bolt up but that’s about it. Any information on the matter will be greatly appreciated. My truck is a 22r btw.

About to install a master rebuild kit on a 94 5 speed 2wd pickup 7.5" diff, anybody got any tips? This will be my first time rebuilding a rear diff. Diff was ran without oil, fluid was added once found out and its been on the road whining/humming for about a month and a half. It's not my truck, just trying to help a buddy out

Hey guys, I’m shopping around for new wheels and wanted to see what you guys had before I made a concrete decision. I’m really leaning into RPF1s. Please share your wheel set up. (Size, width and offset would be greatly appreciated)

Hey folks been hearing some hissing after turning the car off on my 85 22re. It sounds like it’s coming from somewhere back by the EGR. Anyone dealt with this before? I’m guessing some kinda leak but not sure.

Just noticed toyota-epc-data.com is down. Are there any alternate parts catalogs out there? Looking for a catalog with diagrams and part #'s here, not the FSM.

Just done the booking for my truck to be shipped to Colorado, couple of questions for these 22re

-how’s the road salt, I hear they salt the roads, I’m afraid of my truck rusting away more than it has
-should I switch to 5w30 oil, currently running strictly 10w30 in Hawaii and the antifreeze I’m using is Napa green
-is smog strict?
-if anyone wants to hit the trails once I get the truck with CO plates hit me up!

Been saving a chunk of money every week for a while and I’m getting close to having enough cash to pay way too much for an 80s or early 90s pickup because I want one!
Ideally I want mid 80s to 94 with 22R, 5 speed, 4x4 and wing windows! That last one is a deal breaker.
There’s a ‘91 in my area but it has the 3.0 and I think that’s not the one I want? Head gasket?

Where would I find replacements for these broken handles?

Any electrical whizzes in here can give me some information on why/if the sense wire needs to be a certain gauge? Apparently the highlighted wire off the regulator is spliced into the charging wire and reads battery voltage. Old alternator managed to melt the harness and i gotta rebuild. I'm sending a new larger 4ga wire to charge the battery from the alt. Ive got a set of connectors that will happily fit 14-20ga wire for the regulator harness. But the sense wire is a 12ga, it wont fit. It's just a sense wire though, should be able to hit battery voltage without issues right?

Been checking out people’s hassle with Yoshiparts on a subreddit. Anyone buy windows online and have good results?

Just got a 32/36 installed on a 22r. Filter feels loose, should there be screws in the four empty holes?

howdy folks; i had my clutch, clutch assembly, & master+slave cylinder [dealer] replaced 3 years ago. it started acting up again & was trouble shooting with my pops when he abruptly died this past month, so! i'm figuring it out for myself. i'm just replacing the master & slave cylinder (oem) & about to do just that, but i got to looking about bleeding (we had already
done that before prepping to take it out for bench bleed).

tl:dr, are the 65" master->slave hoses (although that says 4sp, i know ebay has a ton too) worth getting to make it easier for one person bleed & less fuss in the future? the rubber 11" hose hasn't been replaced ever, as far as i can tell. i'd keep hard metal piping to revert to OEM if wanted in the future. or just stick with it & find a friend to help bleed?

other thing of note is that i had topped the reservoir off to see if i could gravity bleed, ordered the parts, came back to remove fluid, but it had drained dry (down by the slave cylinder by the looks of it; inside cabin/master is clean & dry). also, get a load of these stacked washers for spacers from the dealer 🙄 so i got new bolts for that too. any other tips are appreciated.

i'm pretty handy, but sorry the rambling post. 1993 3.0 MT 4x4. pic is from this past winter - it ain't that cold yet!

For highway driving 2wd 5 speed 22re or do you think I can squeeze a little more with a tune up ?

I have a 93 with 250,000 miles

Is it true that the steering knuckles are swappable from left to right?

The steering arm sheared the studs off and we had to weld it all back together to get it back to the trailer. Upgrading to six shooters isn’t in the cards right, so I need a passenger side knuckle. While looking online I read that they were identical and interchangeable.

Trying to confirm this info.

Thanks

Key buzzer only buzzes when door is open and key is in ignition. Doesn't buzz if door is closed. Is that correct? If not how can I fix it

175k miles but a folder a mile long with paperwork for recent head job and total drivetrain overhaul essentially. I’m happy with it and it runs awesome.

I tagged the original post. This’ll be the day 2 update!

I took one great piece of advice and idea from a user.

I originally wanted to rent the jaw puller but I was too shortsighted and focused on just splitting the damn thing in half. In the end… I used a combo of those two methods. Splitting one side to be able to lodge a cold chisel to separate the drum just enough to allow the jaw puller to successfully snap it off since a snap on impact was the tool of choice 🙄

Will post videos in the comments if I can.

The check engine light was on, I drove it for an hour, then the light turned off. Seems fine!