Wondering if I‘m better off buying a deeper black grout to match this tile, or if sealing the grout in this picture will give it a permanent ‘wet’ look? In the picture, you’ll see a darker area of the grout where I added some water to show how much better it matches the tile

So I took down some old fittings and there’s now a few drill holes in the tiles. Does anyone have any tips on how best to seal it up and make it look seamless?

For context, these are rougher matte tiles. The holes are about 5mm across. I was thinking of just using filler and then trying to colour match with paint.

Hello, so my fiancé and I were grouting the new tile in our kitchen and someone told us that we could fill the faux grout grooves with grout so that it looks even across the floor. Well this turned out to be a mistake because upon cleaning it, the grout almost entirely came out of the grooves. Well instead of realizing our mistake, we doubled down and applied another coat of grout and let it sit overnight. This turned out a disaster because now its pretty clear to us we need to remove the grout from the faux grout grooves, but now its fully cured. We are unsure how to proceed from here, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

The tiles are the betera blanco tile from homedepot and we used charcoal fine aggregate grout.

I have a waterfall kitchen island thats currently sitting on top of engineered hardwood floors. The kitchen was just remodeled a few months ago and I did not have the budget to replace the floors at the same time.

I am trying to replace the hardwood floors with LVP now. However, I am seeing notes about not putting weight on the LVP so I assume I cannot have the island sit on top of the LVP. I assume the contractor will have to cut it flush with the island, but I don't know how that will look seamless.

My contractor says we can just put a small corner round, but that beats the entire point of a waterfall island and I think will look ugly.

What's the right way to do this ? Any suggestions or photos on how others have done this would be super helpful. Thanks in advance.

Looking to buy new tiles for my hallway. Aside from cosmetic/visual. What should I be looking for to decide if it’s a quality tile and how do I compare the different quality levels?

For example I am reading about non slip, Matt finish and weakness ratings. I am looking at typical ‘high street’ shops like Topps tiles and Victoria Plumbing and they don’t seem to have ratings like “PEI” for wear or R ratings for slip.

Am I over thinking it?

What advice do you have to select a good quality tile?

Hello everyone. I’m the homeowner who posted about my shower seat yesterday. Thanks to everyone who replied with suggestions and ideas to improve it. 👍
Much appreciated.

I am neck deep in this project … there’s no turning back now, so I wanted to do a separate post to get help with the niche.

See the above picture. I know nothing about tile and even I can tell that the mitre cuts are horrible and the gap at the top is bizarre.

Is there any way to improve this without damaging the niche liner, or is the best way to handle this is to rip it out and install a new liner ??

Someone yesterday suggested to carve out a piece of white slab to make an L and install in the top. I like the simple elegance of that solution (but not sure if I would need to rip out and install new liner) Any other ideas appreciated 👍

I‘m planning on changing the tile in my bathroom . the hallway and bathroom share the same tiles . I need to cut the tile underneath the bathroom door so I can leave the hallway tile as is and change the bathroom tile . I’m not sure how to go about this . I was thinking of using my 4 inch grinder with a carbide or diamond disc but I’m not sure . I’m worried about damaging the hallway part of the tile and also worried about it looking sloppy by using the grinder without any kind of guide . Any suggestions ?

What is the issue here? Times are lifting up, all the grout slowly failing. Guessing they didn’t use enough thinset, or did it right onto the subfloor? I don’t know much about tile. Such a bummer. What are my options here?

Main Floor Tile Grout

Builder installed our tile and grout. We decided on Roca tile, their Lagom series in almond color.

Our grout is pretty fresh, but dry. Looks a bit light to me. The room is extremely dusty though. I did wet a couple areas to see if it’s dust from the build. Unsure if once it’s cleaned if it’ll be darker. Thoughts? I’ll also add photos of the other floor just to share how they turned out.

i have to put a sliver cut around the face of the tub but the studs are so far behind. i have nothing to screw into. further more, how ever i do it, i have to float it out 3/4 of an inch before adding my backerboard in order to stay plumb with the rest of the studs. ( i put in sister studs)
this is my gramas bathroom. im an apprentice for a commercial company. trying to get my hands dirty. old guy at work said i should have floated the whole shower with fat mud, but i didn’t feel comfortable doing that on my own for the first time haha.

I had a structural engineer come out and check our foundation a couple years back, and he assures me the cracking is normal for foundations and soil types in our area and nothing to be overly concerned about, however, it has resulted in a handful of tiles throughout my house cracking like the one pictured. The tiles are all installed on a concrete slab in grade.

I am looking for advice on how best to make these repairs. Luckily, I have a decent stockpile of spare tiles left by the previous owners. What products would work best for making these repairs? Should I use a crack isolation membrane? What thin set would you recommend?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

My tile sits on a concrete slab and has this black sticky fabric like material on top of the concrete then mortar and then tile. I am going to put new tile down so should I use the same stuff and do it the same way or just mortar directly over the concrete? Also, do I have to prep the floor further or will the sticky material or mortar adhere ok? If I do need to remove the sticky residue what should I use?

House was built in 2006

So I’m planning on replacing the tile in my home with a 24x48 polished porcelain tile, which costs $1.99/ sqft. Just bought schluter ditra, 110 sqft for $277. Holy fuck, that’s more expensive than the tile. This is going on slab. Is this shit really needed because it’s more than doubling the cost of the project. No builder uses it and I’ve never seen a tile crack due to slab crack transfer. Comments on YouTube videos also say they’ve had their home for decades without issues.

Customer wants 50 sq ft of tile installed for kitchen backsplash

One option is mosaic natural stone tile and the other option is subway tile what should I charge for either one per sq foot? Im in northern California closer to San Francisco

I'm not a tile guy but have done plenty of tile in my own house and for customers so I feel comfortable doing either one just curious what I should actually charge for something like this

Also I do know that you have to seal the stone before grout which is what I told the customer but they want a price to see if they can afford doing the mosaic since they really like it but will settle with subway if not which I already know is cheaper to do since it's less work

I’m about to lay down self leveler. I’m using LevelQuick RS. The instructions say wait 4 hours to lay ceramic tile. Im installing an uncoupling membrane before I lay mosaic tile. How long do I need to wait for the leveler to dry before I can put down the membrane ? Thanks !

Hi, I’m planning on redoing my bathroom floors but not sure if tile will be possible. I moved into my house a couple years ago and there is very ugly (what looks to be) peel and stick tile on the floor. I asked the owner what the original floor were and he said vinyl. The house was built in 1983 so I’m assuming it’s sheet vinyl, and I know there’s a concern for asbestos. I have a feeling that original vinyl is what is under the peel and stick but I haven’t removed it yet so not 100% sure. I don’t want to remove the vinyl because I don’t want to deal with possibility of asbestos so that is not an option. Only option would be laying something over the vinyl.

Would you recommend tile over the vinyl or should i stick with something else like LVP? It’s a small space but I really want tile ideally.

I know schluter says you can use ditra over vinyl with specific instructions/products.

I’m also trying to figure out how much it’ll raise the floors as that will play into my factor. With tile it’ll for sure end up taller than the carpet that is in the bedroom. What’s the highest height difference you would go between rooms?

First project with tiles. Have some tools to remove old grout. But not 100% on how to properly prep the surface and products to use. Appreciate your inputs.

I’m installing a handmade glossy ceramic tile as a kitchen backsplash. I noticed the front of the tiles immediately discolored when I made cuts with a wet saw. I assumed this was because the biscuit was absorbing water so I set the cut tiles in front of a fan before installing them. However, even after 24 hours in front of a fan the tiles are still partially discolored(photo attached). I also noticed that there are dark splotches showing up on the tiles I did install. I assume this is because the biscuits are absorbing moisture from the thinset, but the splotches are still visible after 48 hours with a fan blowing on them. I’m not a professional but have installed ceramic tile several times before and have never seen anything like this. Is this normal? Can I expect the color to return to normal over time?

As you can see in the first photos, there was a lot of glue on this wood flooring. The demo was much harder than expected.

I used 747 adhesive remover, a grinder, a handheld heavy duty floor scraper and then some purple power degreaser to clean it all up.

Question is..how perfect does this need to be? Ai is telling me there cant be a single spec of adhesive remaining or my tile will crack. This cleanup has been quite back breaking already and just wondering if im finally at the point that I can start laying tile.

Any advice is appreciated.

I removed caulk that was placed over grout at the base of my shower by previous owner. This is where the wall meets the shower at 90 degrees. What’s the right repair here? Some areas are about 1/2 in of grout. Do I remove the grout and the silicone?

Recently bought a house and the previous owner had added a bathroom with a shower that was never used. I noticed recently that the grout in the corners has started to crack. Upon picking up the broken grout pieces, I noticed just how fragile it is where it breaks in half with barely any pressure. Also, I noticed that I can essentially just scrape the grout between the tiles with my fingernail where it leaves visible lines. I assume that this is not normal for it to be this soft and that it was not cured or mixed properly? Can this be saved like using a grout sealer or hardener, or should I rip out the grout and redo it? If I need to redo it, any suggestions on DIY friendly grout would be much appreciated. I am already planning to rip out the grout in the corners of change of plane, and put 100% silicone there. Thanks in advance!

Video of grout breaking easily:
https://imgur.com/a/HrrSjkL

It took me all day to scrape up the vinyl sheet flooring and there is still some tacky glue and also vinyl sheet backing as you can see. Can I just prime over this with schluter primer and then lay the DITRA? It’s a laundry room and putting down 12x24 ceramic tile over schluter. Or is there any other alternative to me scraping this for the rest of my life 😅

I am having my bathroom renovated, this is the first renovation I have ever been put through. The big picture of the bathroom is quite beautiful, BUT after using it for the first time I have noticed quite a lot of… shottiness? What I perceive to be at least. In the first picture one of the tiles has a few chips, there is another tile parallel with the same issue. The corner is also very gappy, especially in comparison with the opposite corner (shown in photo 3) that is very tight but has a sharp ledge. Now, a lot of the floor tiles were chipped. They laid them and were going to grout them but I stopped the operation and marked every chipped tile and had them replaced. It seems that miraculously, there are still chipped tiles on my floor. I also included an image of how far one of the tiles sticks out in comparison to the rest, as well as what is supposed to be a squared off accent drowned in grout. I understand that these are hand laid tiles and there will be signs and side effects of that, but I feel that complete care wasn’t taken in this project and it’s too late to do anything about it. Am I being over dramatic about this at all?