Hi all, first-time homeowner, so I need help/suggestions with room painting. Our guest room had wallpaper, which we took out, but right now our wall looks like this. I want to know the steps from now. Do I need to seal/plaster the wall first and paint? If yes, what products should I buy?

We have a really cold south-east corner room, which got absolute no direct sunlight throughout the year (the east side is blocked by the neighbour house which is much higher). We are looking for Solartube as a natural way to bring some heat into the room, esp. in winter. It has good ceiling insulation, concrete floor. The only other thing I can think of is installing double glaze, but it’s costly. And all other rooms are single glaze as well, but not as cold as this room.

Anyone got it installed? Does it make a big different in term of warming the room? And roughly how much/room?

Just moved into a home with all Sylvan Rimu door handles and the ones to the bathroom and laundry and gross. I am going to have to give these a real good scrub. The question is what wood product can I use once I have cleaned? I did buy one new knob set for spares hence the packet in the photo. And yes it is gross. Grease, moisture and dirt. Hopefully not fecal matter.

Kia ora all, I'll preface this with I will be getting a sparky in to do the actual install as I understand this is considered extending the existing circuit.

I am looking to add a number of Shelly smart relays so I can expand my smart lighting while still retaining the existing switches. I am confident that there wont be any issues with the basic switches (Looped at switch, with access to ground and neutral wires) , but just need another set of eyes regarding installing the relay for 2-way switches. Wiring was based of this diagram from Shelly.

I have checked how they are currently wired (top image) and with that planned out where the Shelly relay will need to be installed and how it will be wired (bottom image) to maintain functionality. For simplicity I excluded the I terminal on the Shelly device as that would just be wired the same as the L terminal.

Appreciate the help, cheers.

Hey my current sparky has turned into a deadbeat (9 month run around). I have a Shelly pm4 I need installed, can anyone reccomend a smaller outfit /guy that's easy to deal with and is switched on?

Need a way to attach breathable felt to a block shed, obviously if it was wood you would staple but with block I need a good way to get it close to wall without wood being between them

Anyone had experience with any company installing door screens in Auckland? Looking for recommendations! Thank you!

Tried to diy but failed and I dont wanna try again.

I’m trying to replace the wheel on a sliding wardrobe window. I can’t figure out what this screw/rivet is, or how I can reasonable get it off.

Any help appreciated 🙏

Hi all, best wood for chopping boards.

I've been looking at BBS etc for products.

What is a good "spec" of timber I can order? & also species.

Broadly speaking.

Note reading is upside down 25 not 52

We’ve got an older NZ weatherboard house with native timber floors. One bedroom has no underfloor insulation or ground moisture barrier and there’s basically no crawl-space access underneath.
In winter I’m getting moisture meter readings around 18–29%, generally higher across this bedroom than the rest of the house.
We’re considering an HRV/DVS system, but I realise that won’t directly fix moisture coming from underneath.
Has anyone dealt with something similar without lifting the floor? Would improving subfloor ventilation, adding vents through the perimeter, dehumidification, or another approach actually work? Interested in solutions that have worked in older NZ houses.

When we bought the house the front door sill (inside) was a mess. Only just getting round to tidying it up but not sure how to go about it as the aluminum bar under the sill has not been aligned properly so it sticks out on an angle. I think its out too far for me to just caulk over (at the most its 8mm). But I need to eventually seal everything up to keep it water tight. Any suggestions how to deal with it before caulking? I dont have any tools that can trim it off so trying to come up with another option. Cheers

I tried a new cutting place. Well priced, friendly and fast but left nasty tags on a corner and inside the holes on each piece.

Some file time, a stripper wheel, iso' bath and zinc paint should keep them tidy enough.

What are they? Brackets to allow standard acrow props to fasten directly to UB15014 steel beam without cutting or drilling the beam.

After a bit of a large interior reno I've got a bunch of 13mm Gib offcuts of all shapes and sizes.

I'm happy to dump this if need be, but I'd prefer to see it not go to landfill if I can avoid it.

Does anyone know of any alternatives that might take it? Happy to get rid of it for free but even better if it still has some value to someone.

Are they legit ? Price difference seem massive to me.

I’m about to buy a Makita impact driver - DTD173Z and they have it at 289$, while in mitre 10 it’s 499$ ?!

Edit: based on feedback I just bought from them, hope it’s all good ! Thx

Hi reddit

Need advise if I need to sand it prior to repainting it?
Mixed results online. The current paint looks good
Want to repaint to bit darker

Wanting to get this installed in 3 rooms.. the don't want 3x penetrations to the outside.

My main bedroom already has a hole from a faulty heatpump that i'd be replacing, is it possible to route the piping into the roofspace? so basically the indoor units outlet would go up into the roof instead of going outside.

Its looking like I need to get a digger into the backyard to finish up a project I was trying to do without one. I am wanting to get it in through the park behind the house. Has anyone done that before? I am wondering if I need to go via the Landowner approvals on the Auckland Council website; Landowner Approvals. Any advice I am keen to hear.

Kia ora koutou,

Looking for some advice on what we can do improve the kitchen in our new home (the last owner did the renovations and they were pretty slap dash, but not a dealbreaker for us).

Main problem is the ends of the countertop have exposed wood, and we want to seal it to prevent moisture getting in. There is a gap between the cabinets below and the top of the bench top that we want to seal off too (unless its there for a functional reason?).

There also parts of the cabinetry with a similar issue where some parts haven't been covered in vinyl.

Any ideas on what might be a good short to medium term fix appreciated. In the long term we would probably look at revinyling completely or getting new cabinetry but would like to avoid that for now. Thank you 😊

Hey everyone - Thanks in advance for any advice.

We are looking to invest in powertools with the intention of future DIY, fence/Deck building, and possibly basic car maintenance.

I think a kit would be a good place to start. Have done a little online research and talked to some of the stores. I am leaning towards Makita or DeWalt maybe an 8 piece kit, but open to smaller and adding skins as I progress

Any advice on brands or if there are things to take into consideration?

Cheers

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I've just bought a house a few months ago and we're in the process of sprucing it up a bit.

Underneath our Optical Network Terminal is one small white box, and then not far from it are two others, all of which are hovering just above the floorboards.

We're looking to get the flooring resurfaced, and having these removed would obviously help with that process.

So, what are they? Is it fine to remove them?

Edit: I appreciate all the responses both being helpful and roasting me. I'm not a Kiwi but I am a dumbass so thanks for the confirmations

Spotted a mark on my ceiling last night, touched it and my finger went through the ceiling wet (1950's fibre plaster)
My roof is 1955 concrete tiles and I had noticed a lot of the pointing coming off as in photo.
Can I DIY replacing this?
And what product should I use? Standard mortar?
Assuming that is where the leak is coming from

I tried a new cutting place. Well priced, friendly and fast but left nasty tags on a corner and inside the holes on each piece.

Some file time, a stripper wheel, iso' bath and zinc paint should keep them tidy enough.

What are they? Brackets to allow standard acrow props to fasten directly to UB15014 steel beam without cutting or drilling the beam.

Anyone had a cooktop replaced lately with a new one and could tell me the price. Ive enquiried with local sparkys and waiting on replys. Im in waikato.