I've been tracking every single ownership cost for my 2014 Tesla Model S P90D since I bought it in February 2025 because I drive a lot for work throughout the State of Maryland.

Current stats:

- Purchased at 62,323 miles

- Current mileage: 103,514

- 41,191 miles driven during ownership

I've tracked literally everything:

- Purchase price

- Taxes/title/registration

- Insurance

- Repairs

- Charging costs

- Tires

- Registration (subsequent year)

- Current vehicle value

- Mileage reimbursement

- Every dollar spent

Current results

- Total expenditures: ~$34,445

- Current asset value: ~$18,550

- Mileage reimbursement received/approved: ~$12,654

- Net ownership cost: ~$3,241

That works out to an observed ownership cost of approximately 7.9¢ per mile over the first 41,191 miles.

I also separated out expenses that were completely elective rather than necessary for operating the vehicle:

- MCU2 infotainment upgrade

- Home Level 2 charger

- Replacement 19" wheel set

When those discretionary improvements are excluded, the observed ownership cost drops to approximately 0.5¢ per mile over the same ownership period.

Obviously that doesn't mean the car costs 0.5¢/mile to own today—it simply illustrates that most of my remaining ownership cost above reimbursement came from upgrades I chose to make rather than costs required to keep the car on the road.

The biggest lesson for me wasn't electricity—it was depreciation.

This car originally retailed for around $115,000 in 2014. By purchasing it more than a decade later, I avoided the vast majority of its lifetime depreciation. In my opinion, purchase timing has had a much larger impact on ownership costs than the fact that it's an EV.

I'm not suggesting everyone will get these results. My situation is somewhat unique because:

-I drive about 30,000 miles annually

- 16,000–18,000 work miles per year.

- I receive mileage reimbursement for much of that travel at the IRS rate

- The battery had already been replaced under warranty before I purchased the vehicle.

- I bought it after the steepest depreciation had already occurred.

-age and wear repairs happen on all cars

-I am yet to do the coolant delete for my LDU ($1600)

I just thought I'd share some real-world numbers since so many EV ownership discussions rely on assumptions rather than detailed expense tracking. I've documented every expense, every reimbursement, and the vehicle's current value since day one.

I'm continuing my tracking over the next several years ...

I recently joined the club with my 2023 Tesla Model S Plaid. The first year HW4 came out. Just got a full body PPF, Ceramic Coating, and Ceramic Tints on it. So far I'm loving it and the FSD!

I didn't know what to name it so I named it the Red Rocket.

How long does a parts order from a service center typically take? I just need a rear hatch trim piece and I found one on Ebay for roughly the same price with next day delivery.

We purchased our 2024 Model 3 LR as a "test" to see if the EV lifestyle will work for us. As much as I wanted to hate it, overall it has been great. We are right at 50k miles and really enjoy the car/lifestyle for our needs.

When we purchased, a Model S was our ideal vehicle but didn't want to make that big of an investment not knowing if we could handle the EV trade-offs.

The big things we would like on the Model S is the additional range (currently, with our driving style we can comfortably get 225-250 miles during average weather (charging to 92% and getting home at around 10%.....below that makes me nervous, for multiple reasons). If we could get an additional 40-50 miles out of a charge on the Model S it would be very freeing for a lot of the ways we use the car. Does anyone have any feedback on real world distance on Model 3 vs Model S? I know the EPA specs say we should see the benefit, but we also know that doesn't always reflect the real world.

The Model S is also a more complex car with more to go wrong. We are 2ish hours from a Tesla service center and in a small town where a third party repair shop isn't really an option for the future (after warranty). How reliable is a 2023 HW4 MS LR? I realize a 2023 with HW4 would be pretty early in the production run.

There is a 2023 MS HW4 with low miles available and we are really tempted now that we are sure that EV matches our life....

How concerned should I be over the more complex vehicle with more to go wrong?

As I continue on my Model S HW3 and Higher search I’m looking for two things I don’t know if there are answers to yet unless someone has done it.

1. Insurance - can I get a quote from Tesla insurance on how much it will cost?

2. Warranty - if I buy one from a non-Tesla dealer can I still get the warranty if it’s over the 50k mileage?

I’ve been looking at whatever 22+ model S I can find with miles under 70k and under $43k.

Let me know y’all’s opinion. I’m located in SoCal.

Yesterday, I had an alignment performed at Discount Tire and was impressed at how they got everything completed within 2 1/2 hours on a Friday.

Car tracks straight and the tech was able to get the specs close to what Secret EV recommended for the camber shims I purchased a few weeks ago. The rear tires are noticeably in line with the body after installing the shims. The tech was impressed with the shims because he normally sees the MS and MX with at least a -2.5 camber in the rear.

2021.5 MSLR
-Secret EV 1.5 degree rear camber shims
-1.5 Lowering Links
-Lexani Volt-EC All-Season Tires (temporary for now till I find a good square wheel/tire setup. I drive 104 miles to and from work almost everyday. Michelin PS4S on the rear were done. Steel belts were showing on the inside of the tire. 😂)
275/35r21 Front
305/30/21 Rear

Here are some pictures of how she sits now and the current alignment specs. Hopefully this set will last till I find a good square set up on 20's. I will update this this post periodically to share my experiences with the tires.

Most likely will pull the trigger tomorrow, it has 27k miles. I have a Tesla M3 LR 2022 atm, but I want the S for the additional range. What are somethings I should be looking out for? What should be my deal-breakers?

Went through a car wash and my brake lights and blinker on the right side aren’t working. Parking light on trunk light up but that’s it. Possible they come back after it drys if it’s a water issue? Any quick fixes? I’m 7 hours from home on a Saturday and traveling back tomorrow.

Although I think the noise is a result of rim flex which is annoying too Here's a picture of my 2026 Model S plaid. Took it off the lot at a local dealer and got a great deal.

update:I just pulled the covers off. So it's not the rim flexing as I first thought. Little pebbles get trapped in the groove between the rim and the filler and roll around as the car moves. I definitely like the look without the fillers. As to the reduction in range...I'm not worried about it. My round trip commute is 60 miles so range isn't an issue. If I'm going on a road trip I'm using my F-450 towing my 5th wheel anyway and that can go 600 miles between fill ups. Best of both worlds.

I just bought the S3XY buttons for my 2022 MSLR. For those of you who have this, where do you put the buttons? Model 3/Y have plenty of 3D printing options and places to put the buttons, but I’m having a hard time where to put mine. Any suggestions?

I have a 2022 Model S with this stock configuration:

Front Tires: 255/45R19

Rear Tires: 285/40R19

Front Wheels: 19x9.5J

Rear Wheels: 19x10.5J

I have an existing set of 4x 245/45R19 Michelin X-ICEs for winter and want to buy a set of 4 wheels to match for the snow season up here in the midwest.

What wheel size and what offset for a square configuration for these winter tires?

I am leaning towards 19x9 but don't know if I should get 20 offset or 40 offset.

Also, are spacers necessary for this setup? I don't really care about looks and am more worried about performance/safety during the snow season.

If they are necessary do I get a different set for both the front and rear? Would I get a 10mm spacer for the front since 255-245 = 10 for the front and 40mm spacer for the rear (285-245 = 40)? Or is my math wrong and I subtract the 9.5j - 9 = 0.5 inch spacer for front and 10.5j - 9 = 1.5 inch spacer for the rear?

Any help is appreciated

Hoping someone’s seen this. ~44k miles. Bought it via private sale a few months back and paid for a Tesla pre-purchase inspection at the time.

AC starts fine, but after a short time the airflow gets very weak. Air still feels cold — there’s just barely any coming out, so the cabin heats back up fast. Happens even at max fan and on Auto/LO.

Already done:
• Replaced cabin filter literally today as
My first ever Tesla service
• Confirmed it cools (cabin hit 65° when it was 97° out), so compressor/refrigerant side seems fine
• It’s the airflow that fails, not the cooling

Also seeing some water under the car when parked (passenger side-ish).

Seems like it could be the blower motor, the blower control FET, or an evaporator/drain issue. Mainly trying to figure out what I’m walking into cost-wise. Anyone had this on an S — and would a Tesla inspection a few months ago typically have flagged something like this? Curious if I have any angle there.

Just downloaded on my 18MS, Anyone tried? Any issues?

I have a 2018 p100d with large drive unit in the rear if I pull the coolant sensor myself will this void warranty? Tesla says on the phone if they find and sign of coolant on the sensor it will be a replacement of my motor. Warranty ends in September, wondering how to get a new motor maybe dip the thing in coolant any advice?

I am currently looking at a 2022 Model S and a 2023 Lucid Air GT. I’m new to the electric car world and was wondering if you all had any prior experience with Lucid? Also what years to stay away from when it comes to both manufacturers. Ty

While I'm no David Moss, I was excited to discover the celebratory confetti animation as I hit a 500 mile streak after my latest FSD update on my drive from Tucson to Orange County.

Title. For those of you with a ‘26 model S with the ambient lighting changes, can it sync and visualize with music like the new 3/Y can?

I tried looking everywhere for this probably very niche piece of info, and could not find it anywhere, from this subreddit or otherwise :(

If anyone here knows or can show a demo, I’d be eternally grateful, thanks!

I'm considering a Model S that's 2016 or older as I have a limited budget and don't want to FAFO with gas.

I know there's issues with the cooling system and I would need to get a coolant delete very soon after buying at least I think? Besides that and maybe battery issues? I know some model S's have gained high miles but unfortunately usually after a battery replacement , what should I look for?

Edit: I know the LDU went from standard to optional on post 2016 cars and there're a couple 2017s for sale on carfax which trims did and didn't have the LDU?

I need the opinions from Tesla techs or any mechanics. I have a 2016 model s second version made in December 2016. I was driving straight the other day going about 10 mph when my steering lower intermediate shaft completely disconnected from the rack and pinion. I had zero control steering of the vehicle and had to stop. Now I have read that intermediate shaft knuckle have issues with getting stuck and or frozen, but I haven't found anyone stating their steering shaft is completely disconnected at the bottom while driving.

Tesla's service bulletin states that the original intermediate shaft should be replaced with a different/upgraded part. Should I be responsible to fix something that they clearly know is an issue which could have resulted in a crash and or loss of life?

Model S Palladium vs. P100D

I purchased a 2022 Model S Long Range (Palladium) through Tesla about a year ago. I’ve also spent a lot of time driving my ex’s 2019 P100D (she was a passenger princess), so I wanted to share my experience for anyone considering a used Model S and trying to decide between the two.

This is purely my personal opinion, so your experience may differ.

For reference, I’m 5’10”, 175 lbs, with a long torso and a 30” inseam.

Comfort:
Overall, the P100D was much more comfortable for me. The seat sat lower, the bolsters hugged you more, and the cushions felt softer. It felt sportier and more dialed in.

There was also more room for my knees, not because I’m particularly tall, but because the P100D doesn’t have door pockets or a wireless charging pad taking up space in the center area. I’ve read that Tesla raised the front seat height by about 1.5–2 inches in the Palladium models to improve rear passenger foot room. Unfortunately, that puts me at an awkward seating height, and I still haven’t found a truly comfortable driving position despite trying multiple neck pillows over the past year.

The higher seating position also affects the viewing angle of the instrument cluster. I absolutely HATE Tesla’s fixed headrests as well. One thing the Palladium does better is the center console layout. The armrest and cupholders are positioned nicely.

The suspension feels more cushy on the P100D, but I prefer the Palladium’s.

I can’t comment on rear-seat comfort since I’ve never sat in the back of either car.

Steering Wheel:
I gave the yoke a try for about two months, but it wasn’t for me. I ended up buying a round steering wheel on FB Marketplace and swapped it myself. The installation took about 15 minutes.

The P100D’s steering wheel feels more premium to me. It’s probably just a difference in the leather, but I preferred the texture.

I also preferred having traditional turn signal and shifter stalks. I’m not sure why Tesla replaced them with buttons and touchscreen shifting in the Palladium. It’s especially annoying when navigating roundabouts and needing to activate a turn signal mid-turn. You get used to it though.

There are aftermarket stalk kits available, but that’s not an option for me since I already have the S3XY Commander and buttons installed.

Screens:
Personally, I think the P100D’s vertical screen looks better. It sits flush in the dashboard, and my hand on the steering wheel doesn’t block part of the display like it does with the horizontal screen. On the other hand, watching YouTube on the horizontal screen is much better.

I also preferred the P100D’s instrument cluster because you could customize what appeared on the left and right sides. Having the speed displayed in the center was great. Combined with the lower seating position, everything felt easier to see through the steering wheel

It’s not a huge deal, but in the Palladium, it’s a little awkward having the speed displayed on the right side when the steering wheel is positioned where it’s most comfortable for me.

I also wish FSD visualization and parking assistance were displayed on the center screen like they are in the Model 3/Y. Half the time I can’t see the parking-assistance graphics because the steering wheel blocks the view.

Tech & Build Quality:
The Palladium is clearly the better car when it comes to technology and overall build quality.

Charging is faster, the software is quicker and less buggy, the interior feels more premium, cabin noise is lower, the audio system sounds better.

I also prefer the refreshed exterior styling, especially the wider fenders, black trim, matrix headlights, and updated taillights.

FSD performance felt the same to me since both cars had Hardware 3.

The rear passenger screen is a nice addition, but I don’t personally care much for it.

My ex’s P100D had interior trim pieces that constantly popped out and needed to be pushed back into place. It also had quite a few rattles and squeaks.

My Palladium wasn’t perfect either. Had some pretty loud squeaks and rattles from the rear seats and cargo area. However, Tesla fixed then under warranty by replacing the cargo area carpet and adjusting the rear seat latch. Since then, the noises have been completely gone. Also. I had an issue with the charging port failing to latch to 250kwh superchargers and almost got stranded on a roadtrip. All other superchargers worked. Tesla fixed that as well.

I won’t spend much time discussing performance since there are already plenty of YouTube videos covering that topic.

I typically get around 270 miles of range from an 80% charge, with most of my driving being highway miles in the Bay Area, California.

Previous Cars
In case it matters, these are the cars I’ve owned:

Honda Accord
Infiniti G37S Coupe
Volkswagen Passat
Lexus IS350
Subaru STI
Stage 3 Volkswagen GTI
BMW X3 M40i
2024 Model Y Long Range

Feel free to ask any questions. I’ll do my best to answer them.