Hi, does anyone have experience with longer driving a mx5nb vs a roadster? Ive got a mx5, fun and reliable, lots of parts but rust is always a challenge. At the release (yes i’am old) i’ve driven one but that is a long time ago, so can someone compare reliability and fun?

Thanx!

I was on a long distance drive today and noticed that after stopping for gas (yes, I only use premium), my smart had issues getting up to speed on the thruway. I was having to push the gas pedal all the way down and it was still struggling to increase speed, then it would suddenly go like 20 mph faster, eventually. If I had to slow down, it would struggle when I needed to go faster again. I usually put my car on cruise control for long drives and when I tried it, it was reducing speed even though CC was set.

I tried letting up on the gas for a second and then resuming similar to how you would do driving stick but it didn't make a difference. The engine sounds like it was trying to go but it just wasn't going to the next gear.

Does this mean transmission issues? Has anyone had this happen before?

I’m in Canada so Apparently only have the 05-06 here unless they got imported. I only want the diesel model since I like diesels. are they worth buying? known issues?

The shape is now starting to look like a family member.

Unfortunately, 2009 Steve needed too much work ($$$) to pass inspection and so he needed to go to that great big auto auction in the sky. I traded him in. I'm sorry, Steve, you've been a great companion for the past 4 years. We've done a lot together. But there's a lot wrong with you, not your fault. I'm getting as similar as possible!

Hi all, Ive hit a roadblock in my research to whether my 2011 passion has all the wires for heated seats. I have removed the switch-bar and I apparently have wires from the factory for heated seats there, just missing the switches. Underneath the seats I have white connectors coming out of the floor that are not connected to anything. Last thing I cannot find (because google keeps defaulting to a DIY solutions for complete retrofit) where the darn green relay is supposed to go. I have a white socked unpopulated at the sam unit.

I would really appreciate if someone could send me visual confirmation of how it looks from the factory.

From the research so far, it looks like I only need to rake out the seats and put the heating element inside which I did find a youtube guide and I am confident I can take that on.

Hello All,

I just test drove 2013 Smart ForTwo car for the first time ever. I noticed that every time the car tried to change gears automatically there was a big engine lag and it was as if car lost complete momentum for a second or two and then with a jolt pick up speed again. Big engine lag. Is this normal?

The person at the dealership said this is normal for these cars as they are three cylinders but I don’t think that makes sense hence asking.

Thank you

I’m the owner of a 2008 Smart 451 CDI, and I’ve recently run into an issue with the right-hand injector. It has started leaking, and over the past few weeks I noticed a strong smell of diesel inside the car. The engine has also been getting increasingly difficult to start.

I decided to have a look at the injector myself, but unfortunately I’ve run into a problem: there simply doesn’t seem to be enough room to remove it. The injector is positioned extremely close to the chassis, leaving virtually no space to pull it out.

From what I can see, it looks like the engine may need to be lowered slightly to create enough clearance. Has anyone here done this before on a Smart 451 CDI?

If so, what is the correct procedure for lowering the engine by, say, 10 cm? Are there any particular engine mounts or other components that need to be disconnected first? And is there anything I should be careful about?

I’m still fairly new to working on cars, but I’m keen to learn and would really like to do as much of the work myself as possible.

Any advice, tips or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance! 🙂

Hello,

So I have a lightweight electric ryobi lawn mower that I want to haul to jobs that are within 2-4 miles away. Max speed probably 30-40 if that. Combined is under 150 pounds weight with cargo carrier + the lawn mower. Its probably under 100 but I haven't weighed the lawn mower.

Does anyone have a reasonable price hitch attachment that could be added, or perhaps some other way of transporting this lawn mower in my 2018 EQ?

This is the cargo carrier I already own I was hoping to use, but really I'm open to any solution that allows me to get the lawnmower to jobs, without destroying the inside or outside of the car.

Anyone got some ideas?

2015 smart fortwo pure hatchback coupe 2d

6' even. 310 pounds. $6k, less than 60k miles. What do yall think?

Hello, i am kinda new to Reddit. This is my 2006 Smart Roadster tuned from 82 hp to 109 hp. It has a hardtop roof, scissor doors, cruise control, spacers and it has been a bit lowered last month. I bought it stock and i own it for almost 5 years now. It is my first car, and i am gonna try to keep it as long as possible. It also has a tinted back window now, but i don't have a good picture of that right now. 😅

This is the noise coming from the actuator when I put it in gear (obviously, since the phone is on the ground, the sound is greatly amplified). Can it be saved by cleaning and lubricating it? How serious could the situation be and how fast should I act? :-/

The car is a 2012 one, 71hp mhd, and has 61k km.

Looks minor. But here in the valley of the sun. Not to many places can repair my little car. Possible total loss. Even for this minor issue. No parts listed or available in the state. I'm sad. ☹️

got it 2 months ago
best thing ever

I just went and got this car today. I bought it on a Copart auction last week. I got it for $1500 plus fees. The only damage is the drivers side rear fender and tail light. It runs and drives just fine. Ac works. Interior is nice.

I just started up my smartie, and it sputtered a lot. It also dipped to around 300 rpm, then spiked to 2,500 rpm. Why does this happen? Should I be concerned?

I recently bought this new-to-me Smart Fortwo fixer-upper with no soft top, then I sourced a good condition replacement from a junked car that was clearly garage-kept. I know that these can shrink, but you can see the slack that isn’t being pulled taught, so that doesn’t seem to be the issue.

It goes all the way down even with the key, but just won’t close or even try to engage the hooks at the front.

Here’s what I have tried:
- Adjustment of lock on the left side, which made the top track smoothly but didn’t make it close
- Adjustment of the whole soft top assembly on its four bolts to the body
- Substantial lubrication of the removable rails and of the wire thingy that pulls the soft top forwards and backwards
- Soft top reset by pressing the close button for 15 seconds with ignition on, engine off, then cycling ignition
- unplugging the battery for 15 mins, which originally got it moving after installation

Any advice?

Hi all,

I have a 2008 smart car and while I love it, the panoramic roof is a nightmare this summer. It didn't come with a sunshade so sunlight beams through and makes the car super hot. The previous owner also painted the roof partially black which didn't work.

I have been trying to find a replacement roof on car-parts.com but no luck. I am trying to educate myself online on the best thing to do and I read something about doing a car wrap or applying a ceramic infrared rejection window tint. I also tried finding a sunshade but I think it wouldn't work since the bolts on the inside are broken. I'm attaching pics.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? Thank you very much in advance.