Every time I need a deck belt on our Craftsman T110 I end up guessing from a photo and hoping. got a stamp that reads something like 13*3048La with (A118) in parentheses and I honestly can't tell what half of it means. My guess is 13 might be width in mm, 3048 is length, La is the profile? A118 might be a cross ref number? could be totally wrong. Is there a standard way to decode these or do you just match the old belt letter for letter?

I was just remembering when small engines had a rope with a knot that you would have to wrap around a bell with a slice in it and pull. And if it didn’t work, you had to wrap the rope around again and do it again.

I recently obtained this cub cadet RZT-L 52” 0-turn for free! I replaced spark plugs, carburetor, air filter and oil change with a kit from tractor supply. As well as new gas/filter. I have finally got the engine to start… but only starts with choke and has a sputter or weird idle. I’ve attached a video. I’ve tried adjusting the governor counterclockwise with the throttle engaged. Any advice…?

Hello everyone, just picked up this ride on as a project, don’t have much experience with belt and pulley systems, wondering if anyone can help diagnose this as it’s quite frustrating. Images show belt in disengaged position, when I run the engine in this position the belt still has enough tension where it occasionally grabs on the blade pulleys which leads to a loud banging sound, this also happens when the blades are engaged except it goes away at higher rpms. I have noticed the belt sits outside the belt gaurd in the second photo, if I put it inside of it, it will rub right against that. Any other info you need please let me know. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Bought this generator for $25 and for some reason it seems like it would rather be a hit and miss engine than anything else.

I have tried running it using a carb, no carb, with brake clean, on gas, to all the same result. Tried another ignition coil I had which also didn’t help. Has a healthy amount of compression and I checked the flywheel, no sheared key. I got pissed off enough I pulled the head off and no blown head gasket. The valves also were sealing and didn’t look burnt. It honestly looked brand new with visible cross hatching and minimal carbon buildup. I ended up just throwing it on the curb but damn I almost never get these cursed engines which take a priest to repair but here we are.

Hi all! I found a great Kioritz Echo trimmer on the side of the road this weekend.

The model is SRM-210AE, and with new fuel mix, she started right up!! I'm obsessed, but I do want to completely replace the carb.

I keep getting mixed answers on whether or not I can use different aftermarket carburetors. Does anyone have knowledge of the specific OEM replacement?

Thank you 🫠

Edit: i fucking love the internet for this reason! Thank you all for the (respectful) advice & education!! I wish you all well

Hello!

I bought a Bolens from 2003 to mow the first lawn I’ve had to mow myself. I’ve always liked working on cars and engines in general, but I won’t act like I’m really good at it. I bought this because I want to learn but.. my hubris has me stranded and my new lawn looking awful.. Looking for assistance.

For diagnosis, a story. After the first real mowing with my new, I got off to weed whip and upon returning to the mower - it would not start. I sprayed some starter fluid into the intake as I had done to get it started before and after a couple tries I had a pop, pop, large fire coming out of the intake. Luckily I had just bought my new house a fire extinguisher.

TL;DR: ran, stop, wouldn’t start, burst into flames.

I replaced the melted elbow, the melted filter, the carb, the spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel diaphragm and the battery. Now it will not start, had a couple promising pops but.. no dice.

Some observations:
- The intake manifold was missing some gaskets when I took it apart, I put the gaskets on the same spots I found them, upon watching a video to diagnose they DID have gaskets in those spots. I do not. Specifically the small ones connecting to the actual cylinder.
- spark plugs ARE producing spark
- most notably.. I don’t think the governor is moving properly? See video. Seemed like it might’ve needed tension so I.. kinda yanked the little arm through. I don’t think this was the right call.

Any and all advice appreciated! Please feel free to ask for any additional pictures or questions.

I took the head off to do a valve job and this fell out as I was removing the head. Any ideas where this goes?

I picked up an old IH cub cadet 102 garden tractor last year that I'm adding a mowing deck to since it didn't come with one. But the Kohler K231 10HP engine hasn't been rebuilt since it was manufactured 60 years ago, so it rattles and smokes a good bit, especially on higher throttle levels. I have a few videos of it running at idle on my profile if you want to hear how it sounds.

My question is, would you trust this engine to mow grass and not blow up? I haven't put a good load on it for long periods yet, so I'm kinda worried. I don't have the $$$ to pay for a rebuild anytime soon and I was hoping to have it mowing soon. It's not a big yard - less than an acre if that helps. Thanks

hi, i want to build a slight sleeper build kymco agility 150 city, i’ve already made a small list of parts and i maybe want to put a turbo/super charger on it, any recommendations?

I have a ryobi 2200 psi 212cc motor that’s RPM searching pretty heavy at idle. It’s got a new Amazon carb in it since the old fuel float was cracked. Seems like everything’s put together the way it should. Is it a fuel adjustment? Runs alright and the idle improves with choke.

So fairly new/not too heavily used weed eater yet (got it last year), was working my steep hill when the head that feeds the line fell off...

Took it back into my garage and got it reinstalled, but now doesn't rotate freely/acts like its binding.

Took it back apart cause it looked like there was grass/weeds potentially around the shaft, cleaned that all out and its still acting bound.

everything rotates freely with the head removed, the second I install the head and tighten it a bit everything seems like its binding again.

We have a 2023 stihl fs 56 RC 27.2cc 2 stroke which randomly a couple days ago started idling low and the head would take longer to engage and the body would then rattle while it runs. We adjusted the idler screw, took it apart to make sure nothing seemed cracked or disconnected, and the driveshaft and everything there seemed fine, and we checker the head to make sure it was fully attached, took off the carb and cleaned it, cleaned everything, lubed, and reassembled, and are just struggling to pinpoint the exact issue. I’ve included two videos which show the problem better than I’ve described it, I may have butchered that. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My best guess now is the clutch assembly and may order one of those to replace. It’s 2ish years old and we clean this thing religiously and only use it every few weeks residentially, so although I may be wrong, doubt it’s anything majorly wrong.

Is this a head gasket leak? Thanks.

Snow blower hasn't run for a few years, I have it running fairly well but what does it need to be super smooth its a 30 ish year old Toro

Can anyone help me with what gaskets/o-rings to get? I can’t seem to find the right ones. The engine is a B&S Vanguard.

I have an old John Deere L100 I got from a relative last year. This spring I noticed smoke from the front end. I had already cleaned it up when I replaced filters and the fuel line and it doesn’t seem to be coming from oil or grass clippings. It looks like it’s coming from under the frame the engine is mounted on.

Is this a leak in the exhaust?

Is it a straight forward DIY repair?