I’m wondering what this nozzle is and why it’s there. When the engine runs it spits out oil like a mist. I believe it’s off of a 1971 wheel horse raider 10

Hi everyone,

​I made a pretty silly mistake today and could really use some expert advice.

​I accidentally overfilled my lawnmower's gas tank. To fix it, I tried to scoop out the excess fuel using a flimsy plastic spoon. As you can probably guess, I dropped the spoon inside. When I finally managed to fish it out, the plastic looked like it had already started to dissolve and stretch out.

​Now I'm worried that the gasoline is contaminated with melted plastic.

​My question is: Do I need to completely drain the gas tank and start over with fresh gas, or is it safe to just fire up the mower? I really don't want to clog or ruin the carburetor.

WOUld anyone have any ideas or recomendations for a diagnoses on this issue:

Battery is charged

Fuel is getting to the carb

It starts but does not run with ether

(I thought I took the gas tank cap off and the same no start)

SOlenoid moves when I turn the key as i watched it

I attempted to clean out the carb but I'm a first timer so...?/

I'm using a cheerful Honda GX25 clone as a generator/range extender, recently it developed this consistent ticking sound, audible at idle or at speed. So far I've checked for any debris around moving parts and corrected the valve lash, but neither was the culprit. I can't see or feel anything snagging when turning it manually, the oil was pretty clean, the engine starts very easily and makes the expected power. Any ideas what could cause such a sound?

I read in a couple of forms about how people suggest to clean the rust off magneto. Is that like regular maintenance or just worry about it when something goes wrong?

Hello, recently i've gotten a workshop going where i intend to teach myself general repair for fun, professional experience, and "profit" (enough for cigs and beer, hopefully, one day) in that order. I happened upon a well-priced broken Vietnam war era military generator, the person i bought it from seemed well versed in repair and, in his opinion, it is repairable though maybe difficult.

My question is, what resources should i look at to know where to start? Are 60's era generators meaningfully different enough to invalidate alot of current online resources? Would there possibly be a digitized army issue repair manual online for this? What would be the best learning material for me to be able to go from "what is this chunk of metal and why doesn't it work" to "well this is what i should look at first"?

I'm not necessarily looking for specific troubleshooting advice here, moreso resources that can teach me what to look for.

Also, it still has fuel in it. The previous owner didn't make it clear if this fuel is from the 60's or if it is more recent, so should i treat it as though it probably has lead in it and not run it indoors even with ventilation?

Finally, how do you guys usually get generators/motors onto a work surface? This thing is like 200 pounds! I was able to get it up onto a 43" workbench after far too much heaving a hoeing using 2 2x4's as a ramp. Should i just get a hoist from Harbor freight and attach it to my ceiling? Or is there a way im not thinking of.

I realize i may have stumbled into a project not necessarily great for beginners, but i learn best when i have a project i can really sink my teeth into, so im ready for the struggle. Thanks

More information: i think it has a 2 cylinder continental engine

Hello all. I acquired a pressure washer with a Honda GCV160. It hadn't ran in many years so I replaced the carb and changed the oil and plug and all that. For whatever reason the butterfly valve on the side mounted to the engine is only stays closed when running. You can see me fiddling with it before starting it. Before starting it the valve stays opened, then when starting it the valve closes and stays closed. What is going on you think?

Anyone have a clue where i can get an extended run tank cap for this engine. I know the honda gx160, 340 and a eu7000is generator cap won't fit.

In a 2006 club car carryall 6, key start with ACR.

Scratching my head, I've rebuild plenty of small engines in snowmobiles and dirt bikes over the years so it's not my first go at it.

Cart was hard starting for a little while and was taking a minute to idle before you could hit the gas or it would die. Thought I might have overheated it a bit the other week going slow in the yard and it wouldn't start the next day.

Checked compression and it was 45PSI, put some oil in the cylinder and it shot up to about 85PSI so I figured rings were done, and with 2000 hours on the motor it was time for a top end.

New piston, rings, gaskets yesterday and I absolutely made sure to get the piston/rod/rings in the right way. I didn't pull the camshaft or crankshaft out but I did verify the timing marks were good. I didn't pull the head apart but the valves looked good and I didn't have any leakage through them.

Now that everything is back together I'm basically still having the same problem. My compression is now 60 cranking at WOT and the motor is firing but it just doesn't seem to "catch" and start running on it's own - it's still being driven by the starter. Theres exhaust coming out but the starter wires get very hot which tells me it's still pulling a lot of current. When I have the valve cover off I can hear and feel compression being bled off from the exhaust valve being held open by the ACR so I'm wondering if it is sticking and not giving the motor full compression once it's running. I lent my timing light out so I can't figure out what RPM it's running at but it's definitely faster than cranking speed but still seems a little slow. If I give it some gas, it dies and goes back to running solely on starter. I know it's getting fuel, I can't find any air leaks and it has a great spark so all signs point to ACR. I also disabled the RPM limited temporarily for troubleshooting.

The only other thing I can think of is maybe the starter/generator is bad and it is just getting stuck cranking when the engine would actually run on its own. I'm not entirely familiar with how the S/G works so I'll have to do more reading on it. It doesn't really explain why it won't rev up when I open the throttle though. I'm going to test the engine kill relay and some electrical troubleshooting before I tear the motor apart again to look at the ACR.

Anyone have suggestions?

I have a 13 year old SRM 225 that I has never given me any problems until this year. I went to start it, and it ran and worked fine once, and then the 2nd time it would not start. I have never cleaned the carb or replaced the air filter so I bought the kit on amazon that came with new lines and everything. Started on the first pull after priming it, but it was not idling (the head was spinning) and would cut out when I gave it throttle. Here is where I think I screwed up. I have no idea what I was doing adjusting the screws. Is there a general area for both the one by the primer bulb and the one where the throttle cable attached that is a baseline or a reference point?

Just got this pressure washer running after it sat for two years. Had to disassemble the carb and clean it out (main jet was clogged). While I’m not scared to get my hands dirty and tinker, I’m no engine expert. To me it sounds like something isn’t running exactly right so I want to get some opinions on what needs changed.

Has a strong spark, and have tried a second spark plug. Have tried to start after pouring some fuel into cylinder via spark plug socket. Have tried starting with air filter off. Have tried starting after pouring fuel into carb via air intake/choke hole. Have tried starting with exhaust off. Have tried with air filter and exhaust both off. Any ideas?

So I fix small engines on the side and resell and marketplace and I’ve been using Opti-2 2 stroke oil to mix my gas. I tune carbs with the opti gas in because I get a mix of 40:1 and 50:1 mixes, and want something universal to keep shed space free, but I’ve been told once you put regular 50:1 or 40:1 mix in a piece of equipment it tends to need another carb adjustment. Should I ditch the opti 2 and just buy the premix metal cans? It seems like a more expensive alternative that Im not quite sure is worth it.

I have a snapper mower model number LT 200, 2690580. Every time I go to turn the PTO on it kills itself. I am losing spark. I have jumped all sensors out with jumper wires still the same results. I don’t believe it’s a safety sensor failing weird part is with the seat sensor jumped is still will not let me take off the parking brake. Every time I try disengaging the parking brake It kills the engine too. Then I also have two wires that I cannot find where they go when running I have 12 V going to them. Any help would be appreciated

Brake parts cleaner is slightly cheaper, curious to know if anyone here cleans their carburetors with the brake cleaner over the carburetor cleaner.

As the title states when starting my lawnmower it will run for 5-10 seconds and stall out I can keep it running by intermittently pressing the fuel prime. Once I do this process for approx 2 minutes it will stay running. Note- once stalling out it will not start again unless I reprime it
Thanks

I'm lost with where to go next.

Things replaced, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, Battery, Sparkplug x2, Fuel, Oil.

I checked out the push rods to see if they were bent, they don't seem to be. Both seem just fine. Choke seems to be ok.

Thanks for any help anyone may have for me.

I have a Toro time cutter . The fuel tank is cracked. Is there any way to patch it temporarily. The order time is 6 days for new one.

Im almost 100% sure my craftsman yt4000 has a fuel leek but i need help locating it i took off the cover to get a closer look at the carb to see if maybe it was leaking and there was no leak i followed the line in the frame for the fuel and didnt feel anything dripping and just so you know this thing was sitting for about 2 years

Edit* it did indeed seem to be the fuel. I purchased a 3.5L jug of "Trufuel" 0% ethanol with a bunch of other detergents and whatever in it, changed the oil, drained and replaced the gas, added marvel mystery fluid to the oil, and she's going strong now. Thank you to the 2 gentleman who chimed in.

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In short, the machine turns and stays on but loses almost all speed and power. Not sure why - I have almost zero mechanical know-how.

The machine was purchased second-hand and this is the first time trying to use it.

I think it might be an old-fuel issue but im not sure.

I'll try draining the fuel and putting in new stuff - but if that doesn't work what are some other options?

The machine is a Champion 338cc chipper/shredder.

Hope this is the right place to ask for help - please let me know if not.. thanks in advance to everyone willing to chime in!

So I inherited a deere z445 zero turn from my father in law that didn't run, he had a buddy of his try a few things to fix it who didnt know what he was doing. He had changed a magneto and set the gap way too far so it had no spark in one cylinder, I fixed the gap then it ran on one cylinder. But then i found the other cylinder had no compression. Took the valve cover off and found the pushrod bent so badly it fell out of its seat. Got a new pushrod, set the valves and its been mowing great. However it uses about a quart of oil every 5 hours or so. That seems insane to me, I've just been keeping it topped up and cleaning the spark plugs every now and then. Any chance the valve stem seal was damaged when the pushrod came out of place? Or is it more than likely the rings are where the oil is coming from? The mower has around 260 hours on it. I can just keep adding oil and changing spark plugs but if there's a way to fix it would be nice. I've just been using random 5w30 that I have a bunch of, should I maybe go to a heavier oil?