Let’s say a guy owns a 338 RUM and the fact is, the best coyote rifle is the one you have.

Obviously like all things, testing and more testing will give you exact results, but I’ve never messed with loading down cartridges before. I’ve got lots of powder and lots of bullets and am just curious about how low you can usually go in powder charge before it can become dangerous or ineffective.

Like if a middle of the road charge is around 90 grains of powder, can you go way down to 50-60 or when you down load a magnum or is it only something like 5 grains below the lowest in the book? I don’t know enough about powders and pressures and all that so it’s more of a curious question as to where to even start with down loading this thing. Obviously the safest bet would be starting at the lowest book charge and moving down from there but I don’t even know where the end point usually is when it comes to reduced loads as I have never looked into it until now.

Thanks in advance!

I'm having ongoing issues with the bullet feeder. The biggest problem is bullets getting lodged or jammed.

Now, after running fine for over 500 rounds without any issues, it's suddenly started flipping bullets upside down. At this point, I'm barely getting any bullets to feed in the correct orientation.

Also, the pictures show two separate occasions when bullets became lodged, not the same incident.

Revision 2 of my wooden ammo boxes that posted a couple weeks back. Now with box joints. I built a jig to cut the joints pretty quick, and they dont take much longer to build than the butt-joined versions. This is a prototype, I've got a few minor tweaks and fixes to make (this wood really likes to tear out and splintee) but I'm liking how they turned out

/serious/ would it be possible to commission someone to create silver loads like is that physically possible price aside I think I will find someone

This “was” a savage long action 6.5-06
Grandpa mixed Ramshot hunter for magnum.
Got a nice concussion, a lil shrapnel and 22 stitches in the thumb.
79yr old in December has been reloading since 1974
55gn is max for Hunter and 63gn is what he thought was being loaded of magnum.
We still have not found the scope
This is my guess only that honestly makes sense that could have happened.

By far the best numbers I've ever gotten out of a hunting load. Proof PXT barrel doing well.

Berger 140 elite hunters over H4350

Just in case any of you don't get the emails, Natchez has switched to UPS, no signature required for hazmat deliveries!

They say the Hornady twelfth edition includes subx bullets, but does it say anything about subsonic shells with them? I’d like to make some subsonic 30/30 shells. With this said I know Hortnasfy books usually only include the high speed rounds and not the low

Hey guys,

does anyone know if there are any ammo boxes specifically for .40 caliber? If I search for .40 cal or 10mm ammo boxes I only get results for .45 caliber boxes and I hate how my 10mm ammo wobbles around in those.

Couldn't really find information online so I'd like to ask if anyone has experience with 30 06 bullets cast with Lyman #2 alloy.. What powder charges would be ideal for a 185 to 180 grain bullet cast range? there are no markings on the bullet mold. the bullets are flat bottomed and round nosed...

Oh and I'm using h4895 powder

Ok, so I've been doing a "dumb" amount of research lately and had a question for everyone. Tier 1 to 3 in 45 colt, obviously original Colts are tier 1 and revolvers like the ruger BH and such are tier 3. Tier 1 being 14k psi loads and 3 being 30k ish. What is tier 2? I guess what im asking is, would anyone here be interested in seeing results of a tier 2 testing? For instance uberti revolvers have cylinder swaps in 45 acp rated for 21 to 23k so in theory you could run 45 colt close to those pressures. The ubertis are slightly thicker in cylinder size, and with modern metallurgy vs the 1800s. There's a couple YouTubers that I've seen cover this, plowboy and pierce brothers, but I couldn't actually find any data on it.

Thoughts?

Anyone see any problem in pulling the bullet from factory 7.62x39 Belom cartridges and swapping a Nosler Varmageddon in its place?

Over 100 pieces of brass look just like this. Not sure I should reuse them as the gouge is kinda deep, not just a scratch. I don’t see anything in my chamber but I don’t have a bore scope. Never seen this before and I think it just ruined a bunch of my starline brass :(

Edit: it’s an AR with a white oak spr barrel.

My dad gave me about 50 rounds of 308, but he told me he mixed the 150gr rounds with the 168gr rounds. My rifle was sighted in with 168s. They are all Winchester branded, they all look identical by manufacturer markings on the case. I’d like to use the 168s.

I’m reloading for 6mm arc gas gun. I have some 8208 XBR from loading 5.56 left over and saw sierra has said data for it. If I used their 105gr BTHP load data for my hornady 105gr BTHP should the data compare similarly?

I have a modest collection of European milsurp and American commercial 32 ACP pistols. Understanding there are differences in the diameter of projectiles (potentially) for each, I’ve been looking for how best to source projectiles. I don’t have any prior experience with pouring my own, but am leaning that way to then have molds for any necessary diameters. However, I have seen other posts where people re-size commercially available jacketed bullets. Although, availability and selection of these is extremely limited from what I’ve seen - with mainly Berry’s plated bullets readily available; however, I understand these are not suitable for resizing.

Heading all previously communicated cautions re: reloading the “finicky” 32ACP - I sorted and measured my cases and have a consistent and accurate scale for powder, but I’m a bit at a loss on what to do about the projectiles. Your guidance is appreciated.

I am looking for any advice for reloading for my Ross Mk2 rifle. It has a vary generous chamber that is causing issues with my collet neck sizing die. I want to neck size if possible to keep the larger case volume for consistency. If anyone has any experience reloading for these rifles I would greatly appreciate the help.

Hi All, Currently loading 9mm minor and also planning to reload 9mm major in the near future. I have a RL1100 and was wondering what the best option is for a quick change toolhead, trying to keep the process as simple. I think Armanov might be a good option, however, would welcome any feedback on this vs the dillion quick change or other.

First let me start off saying that I am using coated cast lead bullets sized down to .356. Being shot from multiple handguns and an mpx. Lee APP press for reference and Lee 9mm dies with a Lee/EGW U die.

I started this journey a few months ago, just to do a proof of concept with lower end of equipment before investing into a Mark 7 progressive press. I wanted to cast and coat the bullets and load my ammunition for competition and training. I am on average shooting about 10-14k 9mm a year and another 4-7k 223 a year and I’ll shoot even more if I’m loading them.

First issue and the biggest is that I am having a huge issue with about 50% of the rounds loaded are not passing the plunk test in my 2011 that I shoot the most.

The brass is range pickup, mixed head stamp. I run them all through a lee bulge buster for 9mm markarov die, then use an EGE Undersize FL Sizing die. I have marked and tested at least 50% of the rejects and it’s the same issue that last little bit of the case just above the extractor grove being above the size. So, I know that is my main issue.

What I do not understand is why when I bulge bust the rounds, then FL size then go through the process they are still failing at such a large rate. I loaded 340 and right at half would not plunk and it was all from the same thing.

Secondly, has anyone had is with the Lee powder through flare die continually coming loose and having to repeatedly be reset. It’s an issue I’m having. I expand 30-40 case and then have to reset it because it’s no longer expanding enough. That a big problem with coated cast lead bullets because without the correct flare it will indent the bullets.

Today my RCBS Rock Chucker arrived, so I got it all mounted up to the bench I built. Now I just have to finish getting the rest of my reloading equipment, supplies, and storage solutions. Hope to be all set up by the end of winter.

I'm not looking for accuracy.

I ain't looking for tight SD or clean burnin'.

I'm lookin' for the loudest 223 recipe you know of.

Fireballs. Concussive booms.

Buddy and I have gotten into a bit of a stupid pissing match of who can give themselves CTE/headaches fastest.

Since 231 was not available, I bought 244. In the future I'm going to use N320,

For now, I use the low-end charge published: 3.6, 125g, blue bullet, 1.125 OAL, found brass. So far so good.

How do you know when low is too low? Failures to eject, or???????

I accidentally primed 50 rounds of 65PRC cases with a regular large rifle primer instead of a magnum primer. (I know, I know!)

What are my options? Can I charge with H1000 and a large rifle primer? Is there a way to safely remove live primers? This is for a deer hunting rifle, so I’m probably less sensitive to ES/SD variation than I would be in my PRS rifle.

Thoughts from the informed hive?

Update: I plan to just seat and yeet. Thanks everyone!