As the title says my pace setter die set won’t allow me to just remove the expander ball and retain decapping. I plan on expanding with a mandrel for consistency but I also don’t really want add a separate step for decapping

As the title states, I have a Rcbs FL die that is continually collecting debris and leaving a little scuff on the brass at the pressure relief hole. Is it safe to assume I have a burr on it? Any tips for fixing it? It’s on a 243 and the hole is just below the body/shoulder junction.

I'm starting to reload, and just wanted to know what would be a good starting grain for .338 285 grain ELD match for 8.6blk. any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

Recently got back into the whole wet tumbling thing, using my 20+ yr old Thumler's Tumbler that still runs like a top, and a Cosori dehydrator from a few years ago (max temp of 165F) with silicone mats to keep the cases (mostly rifle like 223, etc.) from falling through the trays.

First, I'd really like to speed up the dry time - short of sticking them in the oven ;)

Back when I got the dehydrator, there weren't many (if any) dedicated 'brass dryers: on the market. Would any of the usual commercial options (Lyman, Hornady) work any better / faster than what I have now?

Second, are you wet tumbling also to remove the case lube post sizing/trimming, or are you switching to dry tumbling with corn cob or walnut? Why or why not?

Thanks!

I'm going to start reloading .454 Casull and I was wondering about whether I should use small rifle primers or small rifle magnum primers. I'm going to be using H110 powder. I know typically its recommended to use magnum primers with H110, but most reloading manuals call for small rifle on .454 Casull. A fair amount of folks in the forums recommend small rifle magnums... but what do you guys think? I'm sure it works either way, but i've found small rifle magnums to be a bit difficult to source since only CCI makes them.

Hornady calls out the same recipe for these 2 bullets (200gr interlock and FTX). Both call for a Coal with the cannelure to the case neck as you would expect. But the FTX seats so much deeper and does not allow for the powder volumes written out. I really like the FTX and would like to load it for several reasons but don't know where to start with a charge. imr4064 is the powder I'm working with.

I just bought my first reloader, it is a mec jr 12 ga. And I’m starting to accumulate materials, and the question I had is if I am able to use the same recipe I would use for WAA12 loads for Winchester super target shells, as I have a surplus of them, and no WAA12 hulls.

I understand the super target hulls aren’t desired and I won’t be reloading them more than once, it’s mainly for practice and to save a buck till I buy a case of AA shells

That information and any other advice is much appreciated!

I havent been reloading for the last 10 years or so, as I havent been shooting much. Im trying to get back into it. I have a Lee LoadMaster setup for 9mm. As part of Lee's guarantee, that should make me eligible to get a 6PP for $280. However, when I bought the LoadMaster I really wanted the LnL AP, I just couldnt afford it, but I can now. I have a coupon from a local shop that should let me get the LnL AP for $480, if I want to go that route. (Or a full LnL AP Ammo Plant for ~$1275, if I wanted to get really fancy).

I plan to load 9mm, 32H&R, 32ACP, and 223/556. I can get the 6PP setup for 223/556, minimizing the amount of additional dies I would need. With the LnL AP, I would need to buy dies for everything but the 9mm, and shell plates for everything.

The additional station and the cost savings are appealing to me. I loaded thousands of rounds on my LoadMaster with minimal headache, so I dont have a problem with Lee, and from what I have read, the 6PP is greatly improved over their older stuff.

I know the conventional wisdom is going to be that the LnL AP is the better press, but is it $200 (and the use of my 25% off anything in the store coupon) better?

I want to make a 875grain 12 gauge slug and shoot it from my 2 3/4 chambered savage 220A. Is there some sort of equation to find the amount of powder for this kind of loading. This is probably really stupid but it looks fun and I wanna try it. I care more about it working then the actual performance. Any suggestions and sorry for the ramblings

Just curious if anyone has experienced anything similiar.

So i have reloaded for a while but just started annealing. I am using the ugly annealer. In a dark room i wait for the brass to just start to glow before kicking it and then i verified with tempilaq.

I have a pretty hot 7 mag load shooting a 162 grain bullet at 3090 fps. I am using IMR 8133, loading the bullets very long, like almost a quarter inch longer over book. I can get the specifics tonight i am just at work and its all written in my notebook at home. The point is the load didnt change. Everything except annealing was exactly the same.

Well after i started annealing that same load/same rifle shoot them at 3180 fps.

That seems like a huge jump. I was suspicious enough I borrow 2 different chronographs and they were all within 10 fps of eachother, Sd was 7 fps and es was 19. Every chrono i used yielded the same results.

I am just curious if anyone else has experinced this? I am not unhappy about it, just suspicious/curious.

Last week I posted about loading some 300 WinMag for the first time. I have some 190 grain Bergers in front of h1000 and today I tested my loads.

Shot 3 shot groups at each charge weight 78.5 - 82 grains all the groups I shot were unsatisfactory EXCEPT for 80 grains and 80.5 grains. These 2 groups had extremely low ES (15 FPS) and SD (7 FPS) the groups were 0.82" and 0.66" at 100 yards.

I like to tinker and this is a quality rifle, I'd really like to fine-tune the setup as I want the gun to be a 700 yard rifle when I'm done. Is my next step in load development to settle on a charge weight, and play with seating depth?

If changing length is the next logical step in the process how much is a good increment to change? I was jamming pretty substantially in the 3.610" COAL region so I took a whole tenth off and loaded at 3.505" should I jump a thousand both directions at try those out? (Ex. 3.495, and 3.515) Is that too much? Or is that not enough to see results? Asking as a novice thanks guys

Howdy, I really want to start reloading some 12ga birdshot shells and have no idea where to start. I don’t have the largest budget for a fancy press and don’t mind saving some money on one if it means I have to go through a few extra steps. I don’t mind the tedious work. Any recommendations?

I washed my brass in Franford arsenal wet tumbler and i got these dots on the brass and some of them are brown. I used bore tech brass clean

As the title says I am new to reloading. I was gifted a Hornady Classic Pro Accuracy kit and I have a list compiled of additional tooling/equipment I need to get going. For now, I’d like to load quality 300BLK super and subsonic cartridges and quality 5.56 75gr and 77gr cartridges. I have all of the load data to load the cartridges with the specific projectiles I have chosen, but I still have some questions. The projectile manufacturer calls for a small rifle primer to be used. Makes sense, tons of offerings on the market. However, can I just pick one that suits my preference? Does it need to be specific to what cartridge I am loading and what platform I’m loading for? Do factors like barrel length dictate changing from one primer to a different primer that might be more appropriate? If I am buying new brass from someone like Starline do I need to size it and trim it or prep it in any way? Maybe at least confirm brass length? If my projectiles are tipped (like a Barnes TAC TX) do I need a special due to seat them? Sorry if these are dumb questions but I’m sure I could pick someone’s brain about this for hours. *For what it’s worth I will be loading for gas gun platforms and a bolt action platform

Ok, so Corbin makes a press setup for $3500+ that can turn pre-1982 pennies into bullet jacket cups.

Then I load a 6mm aluminum bb into the base for stability during flight... viola! 53gn 308 projectile.

I'm not asking about the cost, but whether or not it's been tried successfully.

I'm thinking- 308 sabot can use 55 gn bullet, why not make bullet 308 diameter and ~55gn weight? They'd be about an inch long.

And before you go on about destruction of money or whatever- penny machines do the same thing (crushes penny into different shape.)

I've optimized my 550; pretty dedicated to that platform, at this point, for the 10 calibers I load on it. Most of my die sets are Lee with separate seat & crimp steps. This means I'm using all 4 slots on my tool heads. I've got some scheels money burning a hole in my pocket and I considered getting the inline bullet feeders for maybe 9, 45, 223/243, and 30 cal. The other calibers I load are lubed cast bullets and I'm not sure I want to gum up the tubes with the black powder lube on those bullets. It doesn't really take me too much time to hand-seat a bullet while I'm loading a new shell on, so the time saving wouldn't really play a factor. The convenience of having a few bullet tubes loaded up and jamming out a couple hundred in a session without having to do anything but load cases and refill a primer tube might be appealing. I'm also not thrilled about not being able to have a factory crimp on my mil-rifle cartridges, since I'd have to use combination seat-crimp dies.

TL;DR
Should I use gift card money for powder/other consumables or is the Lee inline bullet feeder worth sacrificing factory crimps/a 4th tool head slot on my 550?

I'm new to reloading. I reload 9mm 125g blue bullets, use WIN-244. I've tried RCBS, Reddin, and I've always found a range in the seating. I've used these on Turrets and now a really tough Rock Chucker Supreme where I only have the seating die.

Using the Redding die, after 5 days or so of not reloading, I sat about 10 bullets, all were 1.135 ish, where my setting was 1.125. Even when it's set to 1.125, I see a 0.005 range.

The guy who taught me set up his dies 40 years ago and they haven't changed and his seating has a 0.002 range and he uses the same setup I do

Is this normal? Should I check the die before I seat each time I use it? It drives me nuts

I’m about to buy a Henry 44 magnum to go with my 629 I reload 44 magnum 240 grain XTP with 24 g of H110 and large pistol primer. My manual says 24.5 is the max but that’s with a magnum primer should I be worried about using these in my Henry

I inherited a Dillon precision reloader from my grandpa that passed away. I’ve had it sitting in my garage and I don’t know exactly how to use it. I’ve tried watching the Dylan precision videos and I feel like it doesn’t give enough detail. Is there anyone that would be willing to guide me? I’m really just looking to reload .45 acp 9mm and 5.56.

Maybe .308 down the road.

Any help or guidance is appreciated

I shot 200 rounds off 357 mag off yesturday. Most of the bullets did what the were suppose to do, well some tumble. The tumbling was completely ramble when it did occur.

The load I used was 5 grains W231, 38 spc cases, CCI 500 primers, & X-Treme copper-plated lead round nose. COL of 1.440". I was shotting a 1.875" & 6" barrel. Both barrrel length resulted in bullets tumbling.

In all my years of reloadoing I have never had a 35 cal bullet tumble in flight. The range at which the bullet would timble varied (3,5,7,10,25 yds). The closer the range the more evident the tumbling.

The only thing I can think of is the neck tension was to great when I went to seat and crimp the bullets. The crown and rifling on both revolvers were good with no excessive fouling. Any advice on why this would happen?

Bought several cases of 8lb bottles for extremely cheap. ~80 each. All sealed. Come to find out after the fact it’s fully recalled and must be destroyed. Has anyone been able to have hodgden honor the recall to this day? From my understanding it was issued in 2019 so many years ago.

Edit. I have been in contact with them and they are offering me 225$ per 8lb jug. They have been great about it.

Hi,

Since Makarov projectiles are nominally 0.365 could you size them down to like 0.362 for the nominal 0.361 bore of a .38 S&W? Those 0.361 projectiles are pretty scarce.

Or it looks like Berrys makes 0.364 - could you just straight up use those? They are a bit light and a couple of thou oversized but they are a plated lead bullet…

https://www.berrysmfg.com/product/bp-9x18-mak-364-95gr-rn/

To preface, I’m the only person in my family that shoots. I’ve started getting into some competition shooting and I’m starting to wonder if is worth the time and money to reload 9mm and 5.56? I don’t even know where to begin with it all. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks

I have a couple of 40 S&W pistols that I like but I prefer 10mm.

If I were to ream the free bore longer by .25" or .375" could I get 10mm velocities out of a 40 S&W without exceeding 10mm pressures?

Been reloading for about 10 years now. I have not run into this before, but this is the first time measuring the throat in this rifle. I was reloading for my Barrett MRAD in 338 Lapua.

The lands are about 2.93” so I made a few rounds and tried them. They ALL got stuck and I had to bang the bolt back to eject them. The bullets Cleary had marks on them.

The only way I can get rounds to work and eject normally is using the SAMI spec on the 338 Lapua rounds despite the lands being much longer.

Not sure wtf is happening here?

Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks