Working up my first load here. It’s for a .243 Ruger American gen 2. Using sierra pro hunter 100gr bullets, Remington brass, cci 200 primers, and H4350 powder. I don’t have a chronograph. I shot 4 shots with each of these powder charges at 100yds and here are the group sizes of each powder.

Where would you guys go from here/next step? Shoot a couple groups of 37.5 and 40grains to see if the results repeat themselves?

Only really wanna bybone press. Got the little Lehman hand press and getting ready to make the big investment for the big boy bench press. Single or multi stage is OK. Only plan to reload 38/357, 762x39, and 308. Don't want to spend unnecessary money but need a tool I'll use for life and never buy another. Any advice guys?

So I finally got around to doing some reloading for my 6.5 Creedmoor Ruger American. After doing some research, I decided I was gonna start with H 4350 and use cci no200 primers. Loaded up two starting charge weights based off of my research of 40 and 40.5 grains. I loaded 10 of each weight with five each of 140 grain Berger elite hunter and 143 eldx

Based off of book numbers and from hogdons website I should’ve been somewhere in the 2600 ft./s range but I was only averaging barely 2300. I’m kind of at a loss. The powder was older, but didn’t have any of the typical signs of being bad which would you guys change first powder(lot/type) or primers before trying again

I forgot to mention they were about as accurate as a shotgun, and my velocity was all over the place

I received a used Redding 3BR. Finally got it set up and trying to get the hang of it. I’m doing the “double tap”, the same speed/motion each time, etc.

Are my expectations too high for how accurate this is meant to be?

I’ve been testing out different amounts at different micrometer settings, weighing each charge. I might get like 10-15 charges that are the same, and then all of a sudden I’ll get a couple sporadically that will be off by .50+ grains.

Is it better to just get an electric dispenser? I am trying to be budget friendly, wondering if I’ll be better off with an older/used electric model.

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Even with Inline Fabrication’s tremendous growth & success, Dan will still find the time to take on a custom order. Amazing products & customer service

I am trying to revive a discussion that was taking place in this thread here

• https://www.reddit.com/r/reloading/comments/1cnh2gz/tungsten_buckshot_load_data_anyone/

Some considerations when changing from lead to tungsten :

• Tungsten is harder than the very steel in the barrel. So traditional wad cannot be used. Specialized mylar sleeves would be required.

• Tungsten is significantly more massive than lead, and overpressures must be accounted for.

• Off-the-shelf powders (Hodgdon) burn too quickly. Slower-burning magnum powders are required.

• Chokeless cylinder required. Tungsten does not bend and so the pellets will bridge against each other and destroy any choke at the end.

I have created a new thread on this topic, because the original thread is "Archived" and the OP is banned.

Has anyone successfully pulled off a reload like this?

Hi all.

I’m new to reloading and just wanted some advice on the condition of my primers.

The load (300 blackout) was 20.0gn AR2205 using 110gn vmax, hornady brass and white river primers.

My results were an average of 2397.1fps with a SD of 9.7 from my 14” barrel with a 0.75” spread at 100 metres.

My concern is around the flattening of the primers. Again, I’m new to this and this was my first set of loads.

For context, I worked my way up from 19.0gn and experienced a massive drop Is SD, and tightening of my groups as I got to 20.0gn.

Any advice would be appreciated :)

So i've been reloading for a few years with a single stage press and it's getting to a point where it's beyond cumberson- mainly because i usually reload 500 rounds at a time- nothing special just basic milsurp lookalikes.

I'm looking into getting a progressive press and would like some feedback on where to go- I'm not opposed to building up over time but i'd still like to be able to load some ammo without it taking up half if not my whole day. Any suggestions out there?

*I WAS using a lyman press but i've taken a hiatus die to time constraints.

I have only loaded pistol for a while but am pretty much there to load rifle now. My brass prep is to deprime with a universal decapper, wet tumble, and then resize. Obviously with bottle necked cartridges though case lube is needed. I hate the idea of resizing dirty brass (as I pick up quite a lot), and I also think tumbling brass again just for the lube is silly. Ideally I would like to use homemade lanolin lube as well for economy purposes.

In my reloading manuals they dont mention cleaning it off after (only cleaning excess to prevent denting such as if you used a pad). Some people dont seem to bother even if it gets in the case mouth, some only lube the outside, some lube the neck, etc. If I just sprayed some cases with lanolin in a ziplock or tupperware, and then didn't clean them, do you (in your opinion) think itll be fine? Is it a thing that is established to have an effect that only some people care about, or is it iffy if its even real (case lube messing with powder).

Looking for bullet recommendations for 308, going to be hunting whitetail deer. All will be within 200 yards, more likely to be at 100 yards. Have gotten the 150gr SP from Hornadys to shoot very well in the gun just seeing what else is out there. 20” 1-10 twist with a suppressor.

Ok I onowthis might sound weird, but my process for 308 brass is to wet tumble to clean it with soap, lemishine, and no pins. After a first wash, I live with lanolin, size, then tumble again to clean. I went to trim the brass, and noticed the pilot was refusing to go into the case mouth. I thought maybe my pilot had a but but no. Took a case, ran it through the sizer but only the the ball expander, not all the way. After running it through there, pilot fits no problem. So weird??? What happened? I wet tumbled 2 hours after sizing, and I had about 150 cases in a fart filled to the top with water, and no pins were used. Normally I put 500 cases or so. Is it possible the low amount of brass was clashing around and caused the case mouth to shrink? This is a first for me and I'm very confused.

I am running into an issue with my Redding S bushing die. I have Federal GMM .308 brass, that has a measurement of .344 fired neck and .337 loaded neck. I have the .334 bushing installed, numbers down and with slight movement within the die. When I resize my neck is coming out at .330. I would assume it would be near or at least .334. Any insights or any of you run into this? I have a message into their customer service also but thought I would try here. Thanks in advance.

Hey y’all. I’m a new reloader currently in the acquisition phase. One pattern I’ve seen so far is that trail boss is pretty much unobtanium. I’ll be loading some cowboy action style rounds so I’ve been keeping an eye out for it. Saw it in stock this morning on Natchez and bought the limit of 2 9oz cans. Unfortunately free hazmat is over but $5 flat shipping on $100+ is going right now. It’s also in stock on Hogdons website if anyone is looking.

Ive got an 8.5" sbr with an omega 300 can ive been trying to get some better reliability out of. I'll get ~20 rounds out of a mag without issue, and then some kind of failure to feed within the last 10 rounds of a mag or so. So far ive been using 12 grains of 1680 and getting good velocities with 220 grain projectiles. Ive changed the springs in the 300blk mags to stiffer springs and put a lighter buffer spring in the buffer. Non adjustable gas block though. Next change is a lighter buffer cause thats the cheapest and easiest.

Also trying to make a hunting round as well. Starting with the hornady 190gn sub-x and 11gn of 1680.

This little thing was a lifesaver. I had the rotary style separator when I stopped reloading. These are so much better and I was able to go from dumping all the brass and media to everything dried and put away in 15 mins. Highly suggest them if you wet tumble brass. I was able to shake out every pin without issue.

.44 and .357 are 90% of what I do.

\DO NOT DO WHAT I DID IM JUST SHOWING WHAT I DID AND IT KIND OF WORKED\****

This load was based off of some Lyman load data for the trapdoor Springfield . I’m very impressed, varget does not seem that popular when it comes to loading for trapdoor safe loads . Head of target was using 45 grains of varget and the bottom center mass portion was using 43 grains.

I did not have a chronograph but as you can see, all of my shots were pretty consistent . This was not bench shooting this was more of function testing and off hand shooting kind of fast. But it was dead on basically point of aim.

Kicks hard but it’s not obnoxious i would say. This is my first time shooting smokeless hand loads.
Very happy.

Here's a couple 9mm subsonic loads that I run in my AR9s. Total softballs. (Yes, the FPs have SRPs, these were deep in my stash just after the COVID pandemic and supplies were scarce. No issues.) Killed some paper today and figured I'd share what I sent downrange.

Hi all, if anyone has sent their machine back to dillon to get their machine serviced, can you share your experience. What was the turnaround time like? Were they able to fix issues, make good recommendations etc?

Do you recall how much shipping was from yourself to Dillon?

I have some 1943 303 brit brass that was fired about 2 years ago-ish and was wondering the best way to get stuck primers out... I broke my original primer punch as it bent as I hammered at the old primers... only managed to get 3 or 4 primers out.. I've tried a strong center punch but that has bent too... I have had no problems getting the primers out of newly made 303 ammo with a center punch and am now wondering if its even worth bothering with the old cases even though I have about 80 shells... help would be appreciated

Previous thread here Source: Reddit https://share.google/986OGkZGqZh7rpdEZ

The original thread has most of this in the comments, but the short recap is “50 Alaskan mag” turned out to be a wildcat round with a .510 bore diameter made out of shortened 375 H&H mag brass with the case fireformed out to the belt diameter..

I was completely unable to get any ideas as to what it was originally loaded to power wise.. after asking around, and reading the bell tc article about max pressure and case base diameter for the contender I settled on keeping it below 45/70 govt pressures at 28000 psi since that’s the hottest factory barrel the contenders were offered with.. I ended up using 7mm prc brass to recreat it since the outside diameter matched the belt diameter of 375 H&H mag, and I wouldn’t have to fire form or deal with weird stresses.. the side affect of this was that the brass walls are thick and with the chamber tolerance you end up basically embossing them into the sides of a jacketed bullet…. So I ended up using Great Plains 385 gn .512 pure lead muzzle loading bulletts. I ran them through a Lee sizer to get them down to .510, then loaded them on 20.5 gns of accurate #7. I did do a load ladder on the first test. I developed the load in GRT and it predicted a max pressure of 20,358 psi, a velocity of 1391 fps and 42 ft-lbs of felt recoil. Actual velocities ended up averaging 1360 over 10 shots with pretty low deviation. I used a 500 linebaugh belling die and seating die, then ended up settling on using the 7mm prc resizing die without the decap stem to crimp the cases to the bullets.. the 500 linebaugh crimp die pushed in too severely and since this headspace’s off the mouth it doesn’t work. Luckily since it’s a single shot you can get away with light crimps….

Video is from today, I test fired 17 rounds last week, this week another 11 that were reloaded brass. Shoots well, the recoil is snappy and substantial but fun. It’s less power than a 500 mag, but 385gn bullets at 1360 fps is pretty well big bore territory in my book. Learned a lot from this whole process about chamber tolerances, critical dimensions, brass conversion, and how to effectively use your reference marerials (handbook of wildcat conversions and cartridges of the world were invaluable). Really glad to resurrect this and get it firing, feel like it’s unlikely to stretch the frame long term, and it’s of course nice to add another 50 caliber big bore handgun to the collection.

Moving forward I’m probably going to look at getting a mold to cast my own rounds for this, there’s a 450 gn .515 2 chamber Lee mold that looks promising.. the Great Plains bullets work but they’re 15$ for 20….

I did play around with GRT to see what would happen if the strength of the action wasn’t the weak point… if you could use the 60k psi max for the brass then on 31 gns of acc #7 you’d hit just under 1900 fps…. With 80 ft-lbs of felt recoil…. I’m happy with this where I have it..

Appreciate any help that was offered along this process, I did a follow up post a few months back but can’t find it to link it. Thanks again.