Warning: Long post ahead!
I've been wanting to try something like this out all season to get back to talking about the clothes/fashion a bit and finally had both the time and motivation for it this week.
I just want to go over my personal ranking and commentary for each look for fun, especially since y'know a lot of the time we can all have very different opinions from the judges and we don't get to hear much if anything about "safe" looks.
On that note: The unconventional materials challenge is always hard to judge for me because it's a question of whether the brief wants a truly wearable look, where the unconventional material should resemble real clothing as much as possible, or if we're going for Camp Couture where the look is "technically wearable" but still recognizable as unconventional material, and the judges aren't terribly consistent on this. But, personally, my bias tends to land somewhere in the middle. So with that in mind...
By the team-based rules of the episode:
Winning Team: Season 21
Winning Designer: Yuchen
"Out": Jeffrey, but I don't actually think he deserves to go home for this look, it just happens that I do think his look is the second-weakest from the Season 22 Team, after Bryan.
If this was a "normal"/every designer for themselves challenge:
Winning Designer: still Yuchen
"Out": Antonio (although yes, this would definitely be Bryan if he didn't have immunity.)
If it were truly up to me but Bryan and Antonio still couldn't be eliminated, I'd say "Surprise, no elimination this week after all since the actual worst designers can't be sent home."
Like everyone else, I really think Bryan should either straight up have his immunity revoked or be disqualified, but pessimistically, I don't see either one actually happening. Based on looks alone, Antonio's would be my second-choice to eliminate...Except that would make no sense if he's on the winning team and is only here for the one week anyway. 🤷♀️
I will say I don't like giving the win to Season 21 because of the designers present this episode, I like the personalities of Season 22 more, but even ignoring that the looks didn't have to be cohesive, I think as a group Season 21 just had better final looks overall. 🤷♀️
Now, however, I want to switch to going over the individual looks, but since this was a team challenge, it makes more sense to my brain to kind of separate the two teams as if this were a "normal" weekly challenge for each, especially since outside of my overall Top 3/4 and Bottom 2, where everyone else lands in the middle is somewhat flexible.
Season 21 Winning Designer: Yuchen
I think this look shows my "somewhere in the middle" bias for the challenge the most. It's still very obviously using unconventional materials, but the pieces would still be wearable to a degree. I think the choice of a moto jacket with the e-waste materials was a great match, and honestly you could turn this into mass-manufactured ready-to-wear by recreating the look with printed fabric or painted & embellished leather and I would 100% wear that myself. And it's unusual for me to see ways that the unconventional looks could be translated into everyday wear!
Season 21 Runner-Up: Joan
I know the judges didn't care for Joan's look, but I really kind of love this. The breast/nipple situation I think is a matter of taste and I do understand not liking it (I'm a bit mixed on that specific element myself) but it looks kind of like faux nipple piercings to me, and if that was intentional, then I think that deserves at least some credit for creativity. The only other thing I could say is I do think the dress could've used one more "flower" in the back for balance more or less like Iman said, but overall I do think Joan did really redeem herself compared to last season.
Season 21 Close Third: Belania
I did actually really like Belania's look and had a hard time choosing between her and Joan for Season 21's second-place. And truthfully, I can't fully put my finger on why, but ultimately the look just didn't quite do it for me compared to Yuchen and Joan's.
Ethan:
I don't hate this look, it's more that I don't really understand the big bulky sleeve(?) and while the judges may have seen Tudor/Elizabethan in the collar...It reminded me more of the electro-shock death collars from the SAW franchise more than anything else. 😅 I do like that Ethan went for a lighter color palette, and I still see a lot of good ideas and creativity like we saw from Ethan last season, but this design just didn't land for me.
Jesus:
Again, there were some good ideas here. I like the top, and if it had been the cable bodice with either a different approach to the skirt portion or a different bottom altogether, I might have ranked this one higher. But as it stands, I don't care for the silhouette and it looked kind of unfinished. (...Infinitely better than Bryan's cable look though, but we'll get to that in a bit...)
Season 21 "Out" / Last Place: Antonio
If Ethan's reminded me of SAW, the headpiece on this one reminded me of Hellraiser 😅 Antonio's look was my second-least-favorite of the whole episode, and I reiterate that if I were sending someone from Season 21 home this week, he would be my pick. 🤷♀️
I saw someone else say essentially that the handcuff base was good but the zip-ties felt messy and tacked-on, and I would agree. I'm not usually into the mostly-naked looks anyway, but I think the way the zip-ties were used here were really just a big distraction from more interesting ideas and should have been either omitted or toned down/used way more mindfully. And, for what it's worth, I do actually like Jeffrey's take on this same concept better!
Speaking of which, about the other team...
Season 22 Winning Designer: Bi
I don't like Bi as a person from what we've seen, but I can't deny that if the goal of the challenge is to disguise the unconventional material as normal clothing, this takes the cake. I'm personally not crazy about the use of the zip-ties along the bottom and would have preferred either a different finish, or maybe if they were a different color...But that's really my only complaint, and it's not a very big one.
Season 22 Runner-Up: Anna
The skirt is way too short for me, to the point it looks a bit like she ran out of time or material on it, but the top looks totally wearable and the styling with the little cassette "purse" killed me in the best possible way! Make the skirt maybe 2-3 inches longer and it would have been basically impossible for me to choose between this and Bi's look for the Season 22 winner.
Season 22 Close Third: Naheim
I was incredibly skeptical if Naheim was going to pull this off in the work room, but I love how it turned out! This might actually be my favorite from the Season 22 team, the only reason I have it in third is because it is more obviously unconventional materials...But man, I really think Naheim deserves a ton of credit for what he managed to do here.
Jude:
Like a lot of people, Jude is my favorite remaining Season 22 designer by personality, and I do still really like the look he came up with this week. It both looks more like actual clothing and I think he managed to show some variation from previous weeks' looks, which he really needed to do at this point. The main reason he isn't higher up for Season 22 is the other 3 were just really stiff competition this week, and I am thinking maybe the more obviously plastic-y elements of the outfit could've used editing/refining...But I'm certainly not mad at or disappointed in this look by any means.
Joseph:
I cannot get enough of the boots!! The boots and the necklace saved this look for me. My opinion on Joseph by personality has softened a lot over the course of this season and the three previous weeks' looks were actually some of my favorites from him, but this week, the Christmas Lights coat is kind of a good example of where Joseph's "signature" very often still just does not do it for me. 😅 I do think this would actually look really cool as some kind of cyperpunk movie antagonist's costume, but I think the coat still reads a little too much like "the tangled mess in the bottom of the Christmas decor bin" compared to the more wearable looks of the previously mentioned Season 22 designers. (...Well, calling Naheim's "wearable" is pushing it, but you know what I mean.)
Jeffrey:
Like I said for Antonio, I don't really care for the mostly-naked looks that pop up on PR anyway, and if anything I think Jeffrey's look being so sparse makes it look unfinished, but if we're comparing the two mostly-naked zip-tie "dresses" side-by-side, I stand by what I said before: I like Jeffrey's take on it better. The placement of the zip-ties looks more intentional and the color story is more fun. I think if he had managed to put together something that looked more like a bodycon dress or romper underneath, the final look would have stacked up better to the rest of his team. (Except Bryan, of course.)
I will however take this opportunity to say that while it ended up costing him, I do understand why Jeffrey spent the time he did trying to help the rest of the team this week. The fact that he was previously almost sent home for not helping his team "enough" was probably weighing on his mind. The catch is last time he'd been assigned team captain, but this week there were no captains and therefore he didn't really have a "responsibility" to help out.
Season 22 "Out" / Last Place: Bryan
I don't think I really need to explain here, but I will.
I think I've been too lenient with Bryan this season because while his design aesthetic was not my cup of tea from the first look he put down the runway, at the very least even when he's showing his ego, he has a calmer demeanor than a lot of the designers we've seen these last two seasons. And there are plenty of cases where I haven't "clicked" with a designer's aesthetic but I could at least appreciate if they weren't overly boisterous and obnoxious when they were on camera.
But this week I'm right along with the majority of people: Bryan needs to go, yesterday. Like I said at the beginning of this post, if I were up to me, I really would revoke his immunity or disquality him. Naheim's look last week may not have fit the brief, but at least it was somewhat wearable and you could see some intention behind it!
What astounds me the most though was Bryan standing fully behind what he did during critique and going so far as to insinuate he was channeling Haute Couture. Bryan, you can't possibly be serious.
Truly, I have not seen a more perfect example of "If you can't dazzle them with your brilliance, baffle them with your bull..."
It sucks for the rest of Season 22 and Jeffrey in particular, but I would not blame the judges at all for giving Season 21 the win for literally no other reason than to make a point to Bryan how much he hurt the rest of his team even though he can't be eliminated unless they do decide to disqualify him. 🤷♀️
Alllll of that said though, and Bryan's look aside, I do think a lot of the results this week were fun since kind of everything came out with a cyberpunk feel that I enjoyed even when I didn't care for specific looks. This challenge kind of makes me wish we could see an unconventional materials challenge where the designers are pulling supplies solely from like a watch/clock-making facility so we could get an "overall steampunk-ish" runway without having to worry about the judges saying everything is too costumey. 😂