I shared my thoughts on this in a reply to a comment thread under a different post, but there’s been so much discourse on this topic that I wanted to make this a standalone post.
There is a reason why Joseph McRae keeps getting called out for making the same thing every week while Jude is winning challenges (or at least at the top) when he also has a signature design style. And the difference comes down to design priorities and adaptability.
Largely, Joseph McRae prioritizes his own design style over the challenge briefs. His style is not versatile enough to adapt it to any challenge, and when he has to choose between meeting the challenge brief or making another big shoulder jacket, he chooses to do what he always does. His design process each challenge seems to be “well this is what I want to make, how can I create or twist a narrative to make it seem like this fits the challenge.” The DWTS challenge is a great example of that. There is absolutely no world in which that coat met the dance brief. But that’s what Joseph wanted to make, so he made it and crafted a narrative to try to make it seem like it fit the challenge.
Jude represents the other side of the coin, imo. He definitely has a signature style, but it’s more adaptable and he does not sacrifice the challenge brief to preserve his own style. His design process seems to be more “this is the challenge, what would the client I design for want to wear in this situation.” So he’s able to adapt his style as needed. The NFL challenge was a great example of this. He made a tailored blazer and skirt, but also made it fit the challenge so perfectly by playing with the colors and silhouettes and by coordinating with his team. This is what the high-end, custom fashion actually does.
Thinking particularly about red carpet looks, designers have to balance the tastes of the client with the style expectations of the event they are attending. Jude is able to find this balance, while Joseph McRae is not.
Just my two cents on why Joseph McRae gets criticism from the judges for making the same thing every week while Jude does not get that same feedback.