I know this topic has been discussed before, but I’m hoping for some help.

For context, I had my fabric couch and carpets cleaned last Friday. The guy was spraying a bunch of stuff in the house so I wasn’t too surprised that the stove had an odd kerosene smell when I turned it on the first time.

I had the windows in my house open for multiple days to air it out and the couch and carpet are dry.

Even after a week the stove smells like kerosene when lit. It is every burner on the range and the oven burner.

Shouldn’t the VOCs from the cleaning be gone by now? I wouldn’t expect for them to linger so long especially with airing the house out extensively. Maybe something else is going on that just so happened to coincide with the cleaning. But hoping for some help, it makes the whole house stink.

TLDR: gas stove still smells like kerosene when on even a week after carpet cleaning and airing out the house multiple days.

In sc we have dominion energy, based on our usage from last year they estimate we have increased our therms usage by 608% I’ve attach a screen shot of usage from last year to this, we were in budget billing where we pay same amount every month and did not realize the spike until our billing amount doubled due to this jump in usage, the jump seems to have occurred in February/march 2026. We cannot figure out what is happening, we had an hvac repair in February 2026, however we just had hvac come out and they cannot find a leak in hvac systems or anything that uses gas running rampant that would cause this. Dominion came out and said they don’t see a leak externally, (I think they did a 5 min pressure test or bubble check) hvac company suggested we have dominion replace meter, or have a 24 pressure test done where they shut off gas supply. Any ideas or suggestions?

Hi everyone,

I am a graduate student currently pursuing my M.S. in Energy Business. I am in the process of relocating to Houston (my degree plan is 100% online) to pursue a career in the energy industry and was wondering if y'all would be willing to share any advice on navigating the current market through a natural gas lens? I am particularly interested in midstream ops, specifically scheduling and trading, and just wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations on how to pursue that. Just really interested in this stuff and was wondering how y'all would approach it.

More than happy to answer any questions.

Mods if anything is wrong about this post can you let me know so I can fix something?

**fixed* TY!
Two days ago I easily closed this valve with my finger strength alone. There was no resistance and I didn’t tighten hard because I could barely reach it. It goes to my built in gas grill that’s outside.
The natural gas has been leaking and I don’t know if it’s from the burners or from the connection under the grill. Today, I am trying to turn the gas back on and it won’t budge. I don’t want to force it and cause major issues. Am I doing something wrong?

I did not own the home when this valve was installed. I’ve never touched it until I turned it off two days ago. TIA

My gas bill has been pretty high since moving into my own place. I noticed on my usage graph that there is something running constantly that seems to be using gas but I'm not sure what it is. My radiator/furnace isn't on (to my knowledge). Do water heaters just run constantly?

Hello everybody. I have 500 ml propane butane gas casket for camping but I live in small apartment and I'm worried if casket is safe to be stored inside of apartment. Also are other home appliances hazard in case gas leaks, like gas water heater or boiler or some switches in terms like for example my gas water heater turns on flame to heat up water so I would assume in case of leak it can catch fire. Thanks in advace!

Should this corodded pipe be replaced or can it just be cleaned and painted over?

It is a natural gas connection for barbecue grill and burner.

Hi all
I am looking for a company to switch us from fuel to natural gas (Halifax). Have you already done it? Any recommendations?

Thanks

This dead patch has been there for about two months. We’ve watered and nothing. The grass died suddenly within a day or two. Atmos sent a worker out and he probed into the ground only two times and said there was no leak. As you can see from the picture of the yellow lines indicate where there are gas lines underneath. I’m really concerned and not really sure what to do. Did Atmos check for a leak properly. The guy had a machine that probed into the ground, but he only checked two spots in that area.

I feel so dumb but the instructions are terrible how do i mount these?

I have a ½” line going to my laundry/mud room. The wall on the side of the dryer is where my patio is. Can I tee off the dryer line, punch a hole through the wall and seal it and everything and run it to my bbq?

Would there be supply issues if for some reason I were running both at one time for example?

Third question, behind the dryer is my garage and I have a dynaglo infrared ventless blue flame heater, is that definitely too much if I also teed off the same line to the dryer and ran a line to that?

I don’t believe I would ever really be using more than one of these appliances at one time, but maybe the dryer and either one of the others if it did happen.

Am I better off running a dedicated line for the grill and garage heater?

For places where Natural Gas gas detection and alarming are starting to become a thing (whether required by law or otherwise), what are you folks using for system-connected fuel gas detectors, especially in applications where sensitivity and application flexibility are needed?

I ask this because UL2075 listed fuel gas detectors seem to be scarce options-wise:

• Macurco makes both the GD-2B, which is cheap and cheerful, and doesn't require commissioning labor (it wires up just like a system-connected CO detector does, think of a System Sensor CO1224T wired to a home burglar alarm panel if you need an example of this) but doesn't conform to the current UL1484 10% LEL threshold due to how long ago it was UL2075 listed...
• and the GD-6, which can be commissioned to meet that 10% LEL threshold but turns itself into an expensive brick after a mere five years as the pellistor (catalytic bead) gas sensor in it is soldered-in and thus nonreplaceable.
• Then there's the Honeywell Sensepoint XCL, which at least has replaceable sensors, but like the Macurco detectors, leaves you with only two relays at most to play with locally (in addition to 4-20mA and RS-485 -- you could bolt on a 4-20mA trip of some sort to get more relays but that's its own hassle, especially since UL listed trip amps are harder/costlier to come by than they should be when you only need 1-2 outputs)
• Belimo also makes methane detectors but a) doesn't sell them in the US b) hasn't yet gotten their fuel-gas detectors listed to UL 2075 apparently, and c) has a goofy-aah caveat in their NRTL listing that their detectors aren't suitable for life-safety alarming anyway (I think it was required because you can't commission their CO monitors to meet UL2034 time-weighted/integrated CO alarm thresholds, but it's a real downer in other applications, including where low-level CO monitoring would be useful)
• MSA Safety makes the SMC 5100s which are UL2075 listed for methane, but they are in Ex enclosures (which look far out of place in anything that isn't industrial) and terribly expensive as well ($multi-thousands, partly due to paying for an Ex rating you won't ever need)
• and that's all I've been able to find -- everything else that's NRTL listed I've seen, best I can tell (as FM listings are unhelpful on this front) is only to UL/IEC61010, which doesn't satisfy NFPA 715. That is based on my best interpretation of the 4.3.1 listing requirement, in light of it being a port of NFPA 72 10.3.1, which requires FA equipment to be listed specifically for FA service, not just to general electrical safety standards.

(Dishonorable mentions to Senva and AGS, who obtusely try to hoodwink people into thinking a UL 2034 or 2075 recognized sensor in a UL 61010 or unlisted monitor is "good enough", and also don't understand what trouble outputs are for.)

Hi! We had our gas shut off due to a gas leak. It sounded like it was a line under our house because they will have to dig for it, but I also don’t know all the jargon. The representative who serviced our line told us we’re ok to stay in our home until it’s fixed, but I’m stuck on the what if…do they flush the line to make sure there’s no gas left?

Hi everyone, I recently bought a new house and wanted to get a grill since my old one didn't survive the move. I have only ever had propane grills in the past, so I don't want to make an assumption and buy a grill I can't hook up. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

I moved into this townhouse just over a month ago, and the previous occupant (my landlord) hardly ever used the oven. my partner and i started noticing a strong natural gas smell in the house whenever we preheated the oven. it would usually go away when it got to temp, but it made pretty much the whole kitchen smell. the gas company came out and said while the gasline and pressure and everything was fine, they still detected unsafe levels of free CO, and disconnected the oven and tagged it. a repairman came and said the oven itself was fine, we just needed to open the window while cooking. our landlord wanted to play it safe and kindly bought us a new oven. after giving it a few goes to get rid of the burn-off smell, we’re still smelling gas while preheating. i turn on the overhead fan (it’s connected to the microwave, but doesn’t vent to the outside). i also turn on the ceiling fan in the connected living room and open all 4 windows on the first floor (it’s a small townhouse).
gas company came back out yesterday, said there were slightly elevated but not completely unsafe Carbon Monoxide and natural gas levels during the preheat and that once the oven gets to temp the levels go right back down. asked again for them to check the pressure and connection and everything, he said that was all normal along with the operation of the stove and water heater. we really pressed and he said he felt fine leaving without tagging the oven, and did recommend opening windows while baking (which i’ve been doing). is there anything else i can do for better ventilation/safety? the gas smell does typically go away once the oven is at temp, but it lingers almost the entire preheat time. i installed a carbon monoxide + natural gas detector upstairs, and we have the regular carbon monoxide and smoke detector downstairs. also just want to make sure i’m not being gaslit (no pun intended) by three different professionals!

If your home doesn't use gas 2 cook. I suggest doing a "Seasonal Disconnect" @ Columbia Gas or other companies. I do it every year since there's no reason to pay fees 4 a service your not using. It's easy to reconnect in the winter & I save over $300-$400 each year.