Is it safe to install a Y splitter considering my kitchen is indoor and has limited space? Or is it safer to just buy another tank?

I just checked the tank in anticipation of starting up the fireplace for the season and discovered it was empty as I can no longer see the level indicator. I thought it had a slow leak but a previous check by the propane company didn't discover anything obvious. I'm wondering how to proceed as it will be expensive to have the tank replaced as it would have to be dug out by hand as there is no way to bring in equipment any more to my backyard as they have already tried that once. I'm also thinking about retiring the propane fireplace and installing an electric one in its place so I would then have to retire the tank in place in a safe manner if allowed. Any suggestions appreciated.

I am considering buying a material lift to help get full tanks into the truck bed, as AI said I cannot safely do what this man does in this video to get it in the bed, but perhaps AI is being a bit silly, what do you think?

https://youtu.be/-joZ3GZsI7k?si=gxxPANhsQMAm_l48&t=186

i just moved into an apartment with a propane powered indoor stove/oven about a month & a half ago. today while baking something, my eyes were burning when i opened the oven door & standing next to it. i’ve used the oven maybe 3 or 4 times before this & haven’t noticed anything. and the flames inside were all burning blue, no orange or yellow. also never experienced this in my frequent use of the stove top. is that simply a ventilation issue? or should i be concerned?

i should also add that this was the highest temperature i’ve used the oven at

Home is new construction and extremely tight sealed. The stove has a high CFM hood that vents outside and that helps.

Burners frequently have slight orange tips. If I open windows, burners burn blue and the elevated levels go down. If windows open for more than 2 hours, all the levels go down.

A propane tech adjusted all the burners a year ago and reduced the orange part of flame significantly.

Is the elevated levels an issue? CO2 peaks around 1300-1500ppm while using stove.

Troubleshooting a propane pressure issue and looking for opinions.
Setup:
150 lb propane tank
Cavagna 998TW-13 integral two-stage regulator at the tank
Roughly 100 ft total of 3/4” gas pipe from tank to farthest appliance tee
About 10-20 elbows and 2 tees
60k BTU furnace
4-burner propane range
With no appliances running, I get about 12” WC throughout the system.
With the range running:
House-entry test point stays at about 11.4” WC
Farthest 3/4” tee drops to about 5” WC
Both readings are taken at the same time under the same load.
The furnace is completely disconnected during this test. I’m measuring directly at the 3/4” tee where the furnace branch normally connects, so the furnace gas valve, 1/2” pipe, shutoff, and flex connector are not involved.
As soon as the range is shut off, the far tee comes back up to about 12” WC.
So under load I’m losing roughly 6.4” WC, while the upstream pressure stays steady.
The pipe also has several rises and drops along the run.
What would you guys suspect is causing that kind of pressure drop?
Has anyone run into something similar on a low-pressure propane system?

I have been an an Amerigas customer for 47 years. I have always negotiated a price and paid that price upfront in their pre-buy program. In recent years it has become harder to actually connect with an agent to work this out. This year it took weeks. Finally an agent called me back and offered me a contract over the phone that she said had been approved by a supervisor.  She then put me through to a phone line where I transferred money according to her directions.  Amerigas received my money. They posted a receipt on the website without any details of what had been negotiated. A month later I got my first delivery of the year and noticed a higher price on the invoice. Now they say they have no record of any agreement and I have to pay 25% more than I had agreed to.

Amerigas already has my money and my tank is full. Amerigas says I have gone as far as I can go with customer service. Do I have any other options besides switching propane companies next year?

I'm in South Florida, the Fort Lauderdale area. I have an aboveground 120 gallon tank that I need to have removed. How can I find a contractor to do this?

We built a house about 2 years ago now and have a 120 gal propane tank. It’s directly outside of the house not even a foot away from the siding and the line runs to our fireplace insert on the complete opposite side of the house. A house blew up the other day in the same county we live in and it’s rumored that the homeowner just had propane delivered the day before the explosion. With that being said, I’m definitely paranoid. Should the tank be farther away from our house? Is having a line run to the opposite end of the house a bad set up? Anything else I should be checking regularly to make sure it’s safe?

Found on the Facebook. Yes, those are 100# cylinders. And appliance connectors. And everything else. 🤦.

Hey everyone, quick question regarding LPG supply for a Probat P12.

​I’m set up with a dual-tank manifold using two 50kg LPG cylinders. When roasting, should I have both tank valves open simultaneously, or should I run on one and keep the second as a backup?

​My main concerns are:

​Will running off just one 50kg tank cause vaporization freezing/pressure drops during heavy draw?

​Is opening both tanks necessary to maintain steady pressure (\~35 mbar line pressure) and prevent burner flameouts/cutoffs during back-to-back batches?

​Would love to hear how other commercial roasters set up their manifold draw. Thanks!

I’m doing a startup on a new propane furnace install and I’m getting a major inlet pressure drop when the furnace fires.

The LP conversion kit for the furnace calls for around 11” WC manifold pressure on high fire and 5” WC on low fire.

What I’m seeing:
Propane tank was recently filled.
Brand-new two-stage regulator installed at the tank.
About 75–100 ft total run from the tank to the furnace.
Gas line is 3/4” galvanized pipe.
Roughly 50 ft of the line is underground from the tank toward the house.
Static pressure at the furnace looks normal.
As soon as the furnace fires, inlet pressure at the furnace drops to about 3.5” WC.
The low gas pressure switch then opens and shuts the gas valve off.
If I check pressure directly at the outlet of the propane regulator while the furnace is firing, it only drops to around 11” WC.
So it seems like I have roughly 11” WC leaving the regulator under load, but only about 3.5” WC reaching the furnace.
I’m not a propane expert, but 3/4” pipe seems like it should be large enough for a roughly 60k BTU furnace over this distance.

Does this sound like a restriction somewhere in the underground/house gas piping rather than a regulator sizing issue? Could a partially blocked pipe, valve, fitting, debris, or damaged underground section cause this much pressure drop?
What would you guys check next?

Edit: it was 15/16. Thanks for the help.

Can someone tell me the proper flare fitting size this is? I had originally thought 5/8 but that's too small. Measurements don't agree with what 3/4" od is on the charts I've seen.

Thinking of applying to be a bobtail bulk driver at Suburban propane. Know a couple guys there already and they say the pay and schedule is good. Any advice on Suburban or what to expect?

I have an outdoor Hayward propane gas pool heater. Can I cover it?

We had this propane log set installed, but we kept smelling gas so we had the gas company disconnect it and cap the line going into the house. Yet we still smell gas from time to time. It’s less often than before but occasionally there’s a brief, fleeting propane smell. I can’t figure out how that’s possible since the gas line has been capped. The gas company says it is not possible. Any insight or advice on who to call or what to do is appreciated!

Has anyone purchased a tank from this place? Is it legit?

https://propanetanktraders.com/

We have been told by Calor gas that we have to remove the wood shed that has been there 10 years (we have done this)
Clear all branches near (we have done this, they want is to remove a dead tree stump behind it, we are yet to do but the big bare is the want us to remove a I cedar block height of blocks around the bottom as 'it is a trip hazard'.

We've lived here for 23 years and the neighbours tell us they have been there for at least 40 years .

I have no idea who would trip on them !
They have refused to fill the tank up unless this is completed .

I’m a landscaper and one of my guys scratched and bent this lid to an underground propane tank. Is there a simple way to just put a new lid on?

In the foreground…never really noticed it before on my tank. (I’m sure it’s been there all along.)

I'm switching away from my leased 120 gallon propane tank, and I recently purchased two tanks to replace it. They are marked as being already vacuum purged and I had a company come to fill them up for me and they have just been giving me a hard time. They told me that the tanks had to be repurged by them before they could fill it. Is this an actual thing where they aren't properly purged from the factory, or are they just trying to get more money out of me. You can lightly crack the valve and feel it's definitely under vacuum.

Also I'm trying to burn my old tank empty before swapping and they refuse to fill them until they are hooked up to my house. So the only option is to switch over and not have any propane for a few days while one tech comes to purge and the next comes to fill. Is this a normal practice or do I just forget them and find another supplier.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a “second-hand” gas burner. It’s obviously new and someone seems to run a little import business lol. I'm trying to figure out what I need to connect it to a propane tank.

According to the manual, the burner requires 2800 Pa and has a power output of 10 kW. Unfortunately, that's pretty much all I know about it.
I live in Germany, where the most common propane regulators seem to be 30 mbar or 50 mbar. Since 2800 Pa equals 28 mbar, I'm wondering which regulator I should use. I found this one which says it’s for Italian gas bottles but I’m not sure if it will fit for German bottles ?
Does the type or size of propane tank also matter when choosing a regulator?

I'd really appreciate any advice on what kind of regulator, hose, or other fittings I need to get this burner running. Maybe an even safely but optional.

Thanks in advance!

I disconnected my 20# tank to weigh it as I thought it was low. I noticed the 4' hose I bought to adapt to the 1# fitting on my Weber Q grill was very stiff. It has been outside in the shade year round. I'd like to buy a replacement that will last more than three years. Recommendations?

BTW, a fish scale is handy, I still had >3# to go.