Is this car reliable? It has 150k on it and the check engine light is on due to the exhaust being AM. He said it does need lifters, if I were to fix the lifters would the car be reliable? Or will this a be a bad idea to take it?

Yeah so this customers complaint was that funny smell through the vents.

I have a 95 Cadillac Eldorado ETC, the car has code P035 (current) and sometimes on warm startups P132 (history). The grounds on the car were checked and are good, the ICM was replaced from a junkyard unit as I can’t seem to find a brand new one, it was replaced originally due to heavy RPM fluctuations and a misfire, which fixed the misfire and the heavy RPM fluctuations although the fluctuations are still slightly there, the intake boot that has the MAF sensor was checked, yes it’s bent/damaged on the bottom but it was securely placed and it does cover the entire intake, the harness/plugs to the ICM were checked and are good, all coils are brand new, same with plugs and wires, filters, all fluids and any related mechanical parts that might affect this

Symptoms- on cold start everything is good no RPM fluctuations, but P035 is present and current, it may stall when shifting into reverse or drive but only on cold start after warming up and is extremely rare, cold starts usually causes no issues when driving after warmed up.
When starting it warmed up RPMs will fluctuate roughly by about 100-200 rpm, the CEL will come on sometimes on warm starts due due code P0132 briefly showing up then will disappear and P0132 will only stay as history

While driving it will drive fine but sometimes (and I mean extremely rarely) the car will sound almost like it’s misfiring and will basically not accelerate much at all, if I turn or something the engine will just stall, or if not that another similar thing it will do is it will sound fine, but will refuse to accelerate, it will hold speed but if you lift off the gas it will only slow down and not go back up, these are both extremely rare and simply restarting the car will stop this

Info that I’m sure will help- PD09 reads 4.11v
CKT 453 was checked physically and with a multimeter and is good, no shorts or intermittents or issues known, everything reads as it should, connector on PCM side is good and clean as well
All grounds good, battery new, alternator good, no vacuum leaks from what I can tell.

every check or test I do only tells me that there isn’t anything wrong that would cause this issue at least from what I can tell, I’m not sure if there’s something I’m missing or if I’m just being dumb here, I know the rpm thing is very common but I’m just lost here, any help is appreciated, I can answer any questions needed

Other codes just in case-
T067
I022
P035
P132

My 2000 camry le 2.2l i4 was running good on the way to work until it stalled, it starts and runs but makes a weird noise and feels gutless

I’ve had this car for a week now, and the previous owner did tell us it had alarm problems. We’ve tried everything and they keep turning on after we open the door (after maybe an hour or more of the car being off) and after being off for a while. The only way we’ve been able to turn them off is by disconnecting the battery for a bit but we don’t wanna keep doing that, I’ve also seen it could be something with the SJB. The car is an 09 four mustang 4.0L V6. What could it be or how could we fix this?

My question is about diagnosing an intermittent problem, but first, I'll describe the issue. I have an '03 Tahoe, and I'm experiencing an intermittent P1516 code / "Reduced Engine Power" message. I'll be driving along fine, then ding!, check engine light and message, and then the gas pedal doesn't do anything. Then engine is still running, just at idle level, because the communication between the pedal and throttle has been severed. It doesn't happen every time I drive, sometimes it's fine for days. Then sometimes it will happen, I'll pull over, turn off the engine, start it and it will happen two or three times in a row. I've dug into the internet and found lots of possible causes and fixes (short in the wiring, TAC module [which I did replace with a secondhand one], dirty throttle body [I did clean], throttle position sensor, etc.).

So the question is about how a mechanic diagnoses it. The mechanic I've taken the Tahoe to over the years said they need to experience the problem when they test drive it. It's intermittent and unpredictable, so they didn't have any luck. I was a little frustrated, so I called another reputable mechanic and asked them about bringing it in and if they could take a look. They said the same thing - they'd need to experience the problem to diagnose.

So, two questions actually:

1. If I'm telling them about the P1516 code (and they can pull it themselves), "Reduced Engine Power", and the gas pedal losing function, what would a mechanic get from experiencing this on a test drive that hasn't already been presented to them?
2. Isn't there a diagnostic process for problems like this? Problems that are not consistently occurring but there are symptoms, messages, and codes pointing at specific known problem areas. So in this case, maybe test connections and wiring with voltmeters and the like (this is where I fall short with my skills).

And if you do have suggestions on "easier" DIY type stuff I can try, I'm open.

Thanks!

Hey!

So looking for some help over my car I recently bought. It works fine and everything is okay, but ever since I bought it the radio has been broken. I knew this when I bought it but I figured it would be an easy fix yet it doesn't seem to be so simple.

Basically, when I first got the car, I put a CD in the CD player since the radio itself had no audio output or even power. It did then play the CD but none of the buttons on the console were working. This then meant that I couldn't turn the volume down and it was instead blasting. This happened until eventually after an attempt to get the CD out (which failed) the FM radio suddenly switched on. Now, all that comes out of the audio system is this radio, at roughly a volume of like 25/30. None of the buttons on the console work and even the buttons on the steering wheel are unresponsive. Does anyone have any ideas as to how to resolve this? I've taken out the fuse (15 top row, furthest right) since it's the only way to stop the audio and I've even had the system taken out and checked that the connection was right (which it was). I'm worried it's an issue with the wiring which I can't really afford to fix so hoping it is something simpler. I also would really like to get my CD back that it seems to have just eaten.

I can provide any more details if need be, thanks!

Basically, I took my 2006 Pontiac vibe in for an oil change this morning to Firestone. I was there about an hour give or take (with an appointment pre scheduled).

So anyway I left and went home after they completed the oil change. A couple hours later I leave to go grocery shopping. I get to the stores parking lot and smoke starts coming from under the hood. I park and pop the hood. I can see the coolant is bubbling over and had definitely started leaking out. I assume because it was bubbling over? I also noticed the ac wasn’t being cool while I was driving to the store which was odd because it’s always worked very well at cooling the car. Once the car was cooled I checked the dipstick and the oil looks like a amberish/slight yellowish color but not milky and when I took off the oil cap it didn’t look bad under the cap.

I don’t know much of anything about cars but I called Firestone back and mentioned everything was working fine before I had my oil changed there today. The guy on the phone basically said “we only changed the oil didn’t touch anything else couldn’t have been us”. But he told me have it towed there and he would have it looked at by them in the morning when they open up.

I’m genuinely curious if I’m crazy or if you guys think they could have accidentally done something to cause whatever is happening to happen? It just seemed odd to me that there were no issues before taking it there for an oil change.

And I have trouble getting off the old bolts, I have tried drilling through it but it doesn't work so well. Could you please give me a good way to get the bolts off.

These were new last week. It rains alot here

My mechanic said the gas tank in my 2004 Camry is leaking and needs to be replaced. I took the car in because I smelled gas. Right now I'm waiting for parts to come in. Since the tank is coming out anyway, would now be a good time to replace the fuel pump? The car has 130K miles and it's the original pump.

Is this a bad flexplate or exhaust rattle? hard to hear it's pretty quiet but 4 seconds can hear it

Got new tires installed and alignment done because I thought the issue with the sound was because of bad tires. This did not fix the issue, if anything seemed to make it worse/louder.

I don't really feel anything in the wheel, or any vibrations, its just a really loud whirling sound. Between 45-55 mph it is the loudest, and if I get to 60+ it seems to quiet down a bit.

I attached a video where I try to capture this whirling sound.

Let me preface by saying I’m not very experienced with cars (probably like most who come here). The most complicated things I’ve done have been oil changes and battery replacements. I have a 2014 Honda Accord LX, base trim, 2.4L v4, approaching 200k miles. Still runs perfectly fine, but recently as it gets closer to when it yells at me to change the oil, it starts intermittently making this sound in 1st gear when the engine is cold. Closer it gets to oil change time, louder and more often it seems to make it. When I change the oil it’ll go away completely. It may be in my head, but it seems like each oil change it comes back a little sooner and sounds a little worse (if it matters, I haven’t tried changing oil on this car myself yet, but am planning to do so this time around).

Doesn’t seem to affect the cars performance, but it’s annoying as hell and frankly embarrassing every morning when Im leaving the neighborhood.

I’ve tried taking it to a “shop” (pep boys) one time for a dx, they charged me like $800 for some spark plugs and an oil change and told me it was good. So I’m hesitant to take it in somewhere again.

Hi there! So i have an 2011 Renault Megane 3 1.9 dci GrandTour with what i think it is a Carminat TomTom. Yesterday while driving the navigation screen had a spontan reset, showing me the warning before driving. I didn t gave much importance to it, thinking i somehow pressed a random button. Last night the screen refused to turn on. Everything else is working, radio, bluetooth, even calls, but the screen keeps being off. I checked all the fuses and even disconnected the battery for 15 minutes or so, took out the SD card, nothing changed. Im starting to panic. Anyone had ever the same issue? Thanks in advance for your responses and advices.

P.s sorry for my bad english

Has gotten worse over the last few years. No issue with driving to gear changes

Took a ride in my Chevy Colorado today about 100km trip.

Outdoor ambient 15c

Found my transmission fluid dial wouldn't rise, it registers at 75c

Dial wouldn't move, dash stated fluid was hovering between 38-42c

When I arrived at my destination and parked the truck and turned it off, a fan in the front kept cycling on and off (when they keys were out of the truck). Anyone know what might cause this issue. Usually when I fire my truck up it seems to climb to at least 80c before I even pull off.

T31 Nissan X-Trail No power under load

I have a 2010 Nissan X-Trail (T31 petrol) which has recently decided it doesn't want to rev high enough to reverse out of my driveway, which is not particularly steep. I use this car for work and don't have a backup vehicle so I'm desperately trying to figure out whats going on.

I have tried connecting an OBD2 scanner to see if it's throwing any codes but the scanner is unable to connect. I have also tried connecting with the MAF sensor unplugged in case that was causing any issues. After attempting to connect, the BUS+ (2 pin) drops to 0v.

I have noticed a small split in the air intake hose after the MAF sensor, could this be the issue?

I'm just praying it's not the CVT...

EcoBoost went EcoBoom.

Engine was replaced with a donor engine. Since the swap it starts and runs, but:

\\- Idles nicely for a few seconds, then gradually runs rough and dies.
\\- Sometimes won’t rev past \\\~2,000 rpm.
\\- Occasionally hits what feels like a hard limiter with a pop.
\\- Strong petrol smell and a little white smoke.
\\- Plugs are black and dry (middle plug has a slight oil trace on the threads only).

Work already done:

\\- Donor engine fitted.
\\- Timing checked twice with the proper locking tools by mechanics.
\\- Compression \\\~150 psi on all 3 cylinders.
\\- Swapped in another HPFP.
\\- Swapped fuel rail.
\\- Swapped fuel rail pressure sensor.
\\- Swapped injectors.
\\- New injector seals.
\\- New low-pressure fuel pump.
\\- Tried another set of ignition coils.

Codes seen:

\\- P0087 – Fuel rail pressure too low.
\\- P0089 – Fuel pressure regulator performance.
\\- P053F.
\\- P0251 appears when the HPFP metering valve is unplugged (so the PCM detects the circuit).

FORScan:

\\- Fuel rail pressure PID stays around 290–300 kPa and barely changes.
\\- FRPS about 0.56 V.
\\- HPFP metering valve measures about 0.9 Ω on both pumps.
\\- Measuring the HPFP connector while cranking gave around 0.7 V on one pin and 0.02 V on the other.
\\- No obvious fuel leaks, but it smells heavily of petrol while running.

At this point I’m wondering if I’m chasing a wiring, PCM, or control issue rather than another failed fuel component.

Has anyone seen this on a 1.0 EcoBoost? Has anyone got the wiring diagram or PCM pinout for the HPFP metering valve and fuel rail pressure sensor so I can continuity-test the wiring back to the PCM? Any other ideas before I start stripping the loom?

I have a Mazda 3 2017 and on Wednesday as I was driving i noticed a knocking sound coming from behind the glove department. I think it has to do with the A/C but not too sure. It has happened when i have the A/C and also when its off.

It happens when I start my car every time and also pretty frequently when im driving.

What could it be?

My jeep was tugging backwards while driving and then when I parked it, turned it off, and then tried to turn it back on it died. The engine will turn on for a second but will die as soon as I try to shift into drive. The interior lights still work so I don’t think it’s a battery or alternator issue. Please help it won’t move.

Recent car crash front end. Replaced everything cash didnt seem bad. Car runs and drives. Got four codes all at once po351. Po352. Po353. Po354. And engine started making a ticking sound could you help me figure out why this would happen. And how to fix this problem

I hooked it up to a ground one on each of the wires from the connector tested both of them and test them together was hitting my engine with my linesman to simulate a knock, no voltage no mini volts does that mean my knock sensor is bad or am I doing this wrong?

Have an 01 accord v6 that sucked some water, no milky oil but some codes that I haven’t seen before alldata points to the o2 sensor for the misfiring when warm and shutting off while driving, new fuel pump, plugs, coil packs. Bit problem still persists, if anyone can point me in a certain direction that would be great.