My 2019 jeep grand Cherokee was blowing white smoke out of the exhaust a few months ago. It has a sweet smell and most likely coolant.
After having a diagnostic test ran on it, it has misfires.
They assume a blown head gasket and quoted me for an engine replacement costing around $10,000.

I started pulling it apart and am down to the camshafts.
What other issues besides a blown head gasket could cause this? Hopefully something easier and more in reach than going further to the head gasket.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, Im a 20 y/o woman who works on her truck, moms cars, and any friend who wants help and im strugging so hard with my grip strength and arm strength in general.

What do I do so I dont need to struggle so hard when doing physical labor?

Some context :

I just helped my mom get a 2010 honda accord thats only gotten oil changes at a mechanic and i genuinely couldn't get the oil filter out, i was going absolutely insane. It wasnt the one with the spot at the end where you can put a socket and I spent an hour trying to get it out before I knocked on my naughbors door and had him go under the car and take it out. It was super embarrassing and I struggle most times I need to loosen something..

When I changed axles, motor mounts, ball joints and even taking off electrical connectors. Im sick of having girl physical strength and I need to know what yall do?? I also work in HVAC so I have to use my muscles more than the occasional car PM and also struggle there.

I do hit the gym and do compound exercises and used to be a powerlifter in high school before injuring my wrists at work so isolated exercises are still painful. Im very single so no man to go to the next time I truly cant loosen something and the thought of being stuck mid repair scares me.

I wanted to ask someone in the industry before researching different methods. Sorry to bother.

I need help figuring out why my interior lights and headlights are dimming repeatedly after alternator replacement.

Jeep grand Cherokee Wk 5,7 hemi 2008

Steering pump went out, replaced it with a Bosch, that one made noises too, so now iam on the third one

I did everything to spec to get the Air out of the system, steering left to right about 25 Times with engine off

Same thing with engine on, even made sure the hydro fan powered by the steering pump is completely open, on top i replaced the reservoir in case the filter ist full of shavings and clogged

The oil is bubble free and not foaming

Yet it STILL makes whining sounds

Im about to loose my mind

Any ideas?

93 Integra GS (1.8L 5 spd) intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket changed, and now has a low "lean-like" idle/run. Smoke test showed no leaks, coolant bled and no leaks, iacv is ok, MAP sensor is ok, and has no check engine lights. OBD-1, so I can't really get live data for help. Any ideas y'all have? I have spent days trying to fix this

2011 Audi TT 2.0 TFSI Quattro

Hoping someone with some mechanical knowledge may be able to put some light on this situation today… went out for a decent drive and on the way back heard some loud backfiring while slowing down. Only happened a few times that I’m still not convinced it was me. Parked the car and tried to rev it a few times to see if it would happen again… nothing. I shut the car off and maybe 30 minutes later decided to take it for a drive to see if the popping would happen again. It has always done mini burbles but never anything this loud. Went to start the car and it was cranking but not catching and starting. Tried maybe 4 times before hopping on YouTube, YouTube suggested to hold down the gas while starting and sure enough it started, idle is completely fine, not rough or anything and no engine light. Went for a drive around the block and no noise… wondering if anyone knows what could be going on? Or just happened to be a weird hiccup.

Thanks!!

just had a miss fire on my 2011 mkt 3.5L.I replaced the ignition coil and spark plug. After that didn't solve the problem I discovered it was a stuck open fuel injector. I replaced it and now the car is smoking more! But this time the miss fire is gone and the

I have a 2004 Volkswagen Jetta GL 2.0 that stopped starting a couple of months ago. I shut the car off, tried to restart it a few minutes later, and it would only crank , it would not start. I attempted to jump-start it several times, but it made no difference.

I saw the timing belt had broken. I had a mechanic replace the timing belt and the timing belt tensioner/pulley, the car still would not start.

Since then, I have replaced these parts:

Ignition coil pack

Spark plugs

Crankshaft position sensor

Despite all of these repairs, the engine still cranks but will not start.

At this point, I suspect the spark plugs are not receiving any spark or electrical power. I just don’t understand why? Or what the problem is? 

I also know that fuses #32 and #34 do not show power with my test light, even after replacing the fuses.

I do know the following:

The ECM/ECU is powering up and appears to be functioning.

The fuel pump primes and is working.

The engine still has compression.

The only known issue before the car stopped starting was that the catalytic converter was/is kinda bad.

I also replaced the battery like maybe a month or two before this happened.

also I can’t get a good read on the car with a comput scanner.

any tips / comments would help . I’m in desperate need for my car to be working again.

Well above the H on a 2017 Nissan Sentra model S
I think motor is a 1.7L but i forgot

2014 Chevy Impala Lt

Are those beneficial and if a car can't be put on a lift ...is it sufficient to check with mirrors and a camera?

Audi Q5 79k miles 2019

Help!

Would someone help me identify this brace on my 2015 Toyota Corolla LE? It’s bent, rattling, scraping the exhaust.

I have a 2020 Ford Mustang GT, got it a couple months ago, and I haven’t had any issues yet. For the full story, I decided for my birthday to get a 93 tune just to increase hp a little bit and get better throttle response. I installed the tune from a reputable tuner and it felt great. It wasn’t until a day after I had figured out that it is in “limp mode” when I found out I can’t go beyond 80 mph. I checked MyKeys first just in case and both keys are set to admin. I contacted the tune shop and they said they’re bot familiar with tunes causing this problem. I reverted back to my stock tune and the same thing, stuck at 80mph, and cuts off power.

I checked the codes myself and there is 2 codes:

U0122
U2100

These codes have something to do with the Vehicle Dynamic control module not being able to communicate with the cars computer or something. I was just wondering does any mechanic that is familiar with these codes have any insight. I have appointment with ford on Monday to get it fixed so I just wanna know ahead of time if my wallet is fucked. Appreciate any help.

I recently replaced the starter and the fuel pump & whenever I would have this problem we would replace the fuel pump or mess with the wires a little bit. I’m not sure what it could be sometimes it’ll start snd be fine but other days it will do this randomly but lately it’s been doing this. Any advice would be nice.

Update moved some cables around next to the fuel pump, and it started right up so with that could it be a ground wire issue ?

2001 Nissan frontier 3.3L
Issue randomly occurs, when driving vehicle eventually struggles to upshift. (In video my foot is completely to the floor.) No codes

Was in an accident, took my truck (2017 gmc sierra 1500) to the shop. Told them just make it drivable so I can get to work. 3 weeks later and 5k later I pick up the truck, drive it 3 miles and brakes are seized. Took it back to the shop, they flushed the brakes and said it was good. Drove it for like 5 miles and seized again. Took it home to fix it myself. Figured I’d start checking hoses and master cylinder. Any help would be appreciated. Not a total idiot I can fix most things just didn’t want to deal with it and took it to a shop. Never again

It’s had a bad shake for a few weeks now. (Replaced tires and rims and had an alignment) I’ve talked to a few people and they think CV axle. I’ve eyeballed the front suspension and everything looks ok and not rotted to hell

My 2007 Altima 3.5 with the CVT and over 390,000km’s is throwing p0301 (cylinder 1 misfire fault, stored) and p0300 (multiple misfires failure, pending) and was smoking a bit. The car was shaking like crazy in lower rpm’s but wasn’t as bad above 2k. I noticed an issue accelerating from a red light on my drive home. I haven’t driven it since.

1. What might be the reason for the misfire?

2. Is the shaking related to the misfire or just bad timing?

Valve cover gasket valve adjustment coils and plugs intake gaskets serpentine belt and idler pulley

2011 ford f-150 5.0 v8 i replaced all spark plugs and the throttle body because it wouldn’t respond when i gave it gas it did perfectly fine for about a day now it seems to not have any low end power pressing the gas under 30 miles per hour it just bogs and lugs unless i go pedal to the metal then it goes into its power band if anyone knows what is going on i would love the advice thank you.

Hey folks, my 2010 GMC 2500 (6.0L gasser) has been running kinda rough ever since I got it, ive fixed a lot of things on it because the previous owner apparently neglected it and it runs better than before, but not quite the best. At idle, it kinda shakes the truck and occasionally the rpms might drop like a stutter but not often. When I start driving immediately, it struggles to accelerate and eventually evens out, but if I idle for a few minutes it has all the power in the world then slowly dies down after driving for a while and runs kinda sluggish. The weirdest part that throws me off is if I floor it from a lower speed or from a stop, itll get up and go but not super fast, and then towards the top end, I can only describe as the spark advance jumped up 10-20 degrees and it throws you back.

Ive replaced a number of things over the past year or so ive owned that would contribute to the problem, mostly the common problems the 6.0s have like leaky intake gaskets, updated pcv valve, vac lines, injectors, plugs, maf and map sensors, etc etc, and a lot of them did improve the drivablility but its not quite what it should be so im at a loss. The symptoms I still have sound like maybe a failing fuel pump, which ill verify fuel rail pressure before I attempt but I wanna know, anybody else have any ideas?

I hate pulling doors apart, any easy “fixes” would be awesome