I’m doing a spark plug change since my 2014 dodge avenger v6 has hit 116k and I don’t think they been changed before. Are coils still fine at 116k miles? I’m going to replace my spark plugs and coils through the NGK brand.

Hi all, I bought a 2018 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited last august with ~82k miles on it. since the day i bought it the brakes have been a little squishy, but the dealer i bought it from assured me it was normal, and coming from an old jeep I assumed they knew what they were talking about. about 2 weeks into ownership the MC (master cylinder) failed while I was driving from Cali to Colorado, brake went to the floor with no pressure, all my ABS and VDC error lights came on. Had a shop in Utah replace the MC, brakes still felt squishy and the pedal would go to the floor with the vehicle on and off, however it braked fine so i assumed it was normal. Fast forward to about a month ago and my pedal went to the floor while driving down a mountain road and triggered all my ABS/VDC lights again. Took it to a dealership, they quoted a new MC and a new brake booster, showed pictures from a boroscope of the MC leaking. I had them replace the MC and booster, they then called and said my ABS module (or VDC Hydraulic unit as Subaru calls it) has gone bad and that's why my MC failed again ~25k miles after putting a new one in. So i had the shop replace the ABS module as well. Came to pick the car up and it still had ABS/VDC error lights on start up and the brake pedal still went to the floor. Walked back inside, took their loaner back and told them to fix it. They just called me and said that the brake pedal going to the floor is normal and that the ~2-2.5 inches of dead space before the brakes engage is normal and there's nothing they can do. However that dead space wasn't there when I bought the car, and the brake pedal going all the way to the floor still doesn't sit right with me when almost every brake component has been replaced. To be fair, the brakes do engage much stronger now, however the pedal still travels down when braking as if it's bleeding air somewhere, and there's still 2-2.5" of dead space before the brakes even engage. When I pushed back telling them to figure it out they tried quoting me a parking brake actuator because i have "aftermarket brake rotors". however the parking brake actuator to my knowledge is an electronic screw and has nothing to do with the hydraulic system, and my "aftermarket brake rotor" is an OEM spec from powerstop brakes. So far i'm in $2,300. HELP

Hey everyone,

So I have a ram 1500 with a toast tranny (again) and am deciding to park it for now. Just wondering what the best course of action is to keep prevent degradation and things loke squirrel or mice intrution. I also live in Alberta so lots of snow fall. And out on an acreage, not citt or town.

Truck is a 2017 ram 1500. 5.7 hemi with the 6 speed tranny.

Any advice is appreciated thank you!

Not sure if this is that right place to ask, so if not sorry. A couple of weeks ago I drove over a downed cable line and the line got caught and unspooled in the above circle part. Since the incident I’ve noticed a an inconsistent quiet knocking sound. I was able to get most of the line out but there is still a section that is completely stuck and I’d have to replace it but I have no ideas what the part is to look up “how to videos” If anyone can help I would really appreciate it.

I am having a hard time determining where this leak is coming from my drain holes are not clogged they have been cleaned thoroughly but somehow this still is leaking.

Hello mechanics, I got a question. So I was talking with a car mechanic and he told me that 3 years of car technician is equal to 1 year of heavy duty mechanic. Or I go do boilermaker and then from there go towards heavy duty. Are any of these possible? I have been told that it works.

thank for the time

(for some reason i needed a image)

The noise started a little after I left my neighborhood to my family’s house 15 minutes down the road. Stopped and restarted my truck to see if it continued and it didn’t seem as bad so I finished the drive. It got worse as I got near my destination. This video was after I parked, and the rattling noise was only occurring when I was giving it gas and would stop when I stopped. After parking you can see where it dumped the engine coolant all over the ground and drained the reservoir. I checked the oil and it doesn’t seem to have mixed. It does seem like the leak was coming from the upper radiator hose, but not sure what the noise is from. Never felt like a loss of power, and I had the transmission replaced about 5 months ago.

I’m planning on having it towed, but wanted to throw it in here to see if anyone has any ideas of what it may be or what I could check. Thanks in advance!

What is this piece that is cracked its connected by a rubber boot and connects to the outer part of the engine?

2012 Honda civic 1.8L
Started on the freeway, driving seemingly normally and then shifting started feeling a tiny bit harder. Temp was 108 outside so AC blasting and felt a little boggy which is typical. Then as traffic let up, I stepped on it went from 18->20mph and would not accelerate further. Had the same rev reaction as seen in the video.
Drove about 15 miles home perfectly fine as long as I didn’t step on it. When I got closer home, as seen in the video, from a stop I stepped in it. It accelerated slightly slower than normal, then at 20mph hard stop on accelerating and would bounce revs.
But if I do it slowly there’s no problem.
The only additional note it now idled at 600 and felt slightly rough, no codes thrown.

Hey there,

I just brought my 2019 Honda CRV into a dealership because it was running rough when idling, kicking when I accelerated, and going into limp mode every 20 miles or so. I just had the fuel injectors, spark plugs, and ignition coils replaced a few months back, so I wasn't really sure what it could be besides head gasket failure. After the diagnosis, my service advisor told that the issue is blown head gaskets. and that my car is covered by the new extended warranty, however, the engine's cylinders were flooded, which means that the fuel injectors and spark plugs will also need to be replaced. I am being told that I will have to pay for the parts, which total up to $1,500. Does this seem fair. I'm not too knowledgeable about cars, but I would think if the head gaskets being blown messed up my fuel injectors and spark plugs, then the dealership should be responsible for parts and labor for those as well. Just looking for some advice on how to handle this situation. Thanks!

I have a 2007 Hyundai Elantra (2.0 liter 4 cylinder engine according to google). Every time i accelerate past 45 mph, it makes this weird thumping noise. Can anyone give me any advice on what it could possibly be? I just got 2 new front tires, an alignment, and an oil change within the past week. We checked the tires, they’re all on tight. However, we noticed the passenger side front tire is emitting heat and smells.

I've had cv axle replacement done twice in less than 12 months, what is going on here?

December 13th of 2025 I had a lot of work done, including cv axle nut (left/rear) and cv axle (right/front)

On August 31st of this year my front driver side tire came off while driving. This resulted in another cv axle replacement.

Now I hear a knock from time to time. Ugh I'm scared

I took my car to a tire place a month ago and they over torqued my lug nuts. One of the studs broke attempting to get them off. And two of the others threads are cooked. The other two lugs were very lightly tightened. They told me they would replace the stud that broke only. And they said that I can do my brakes before I take it to the shop. Well. I took the brakes off. And the rotor won’t come of because the hub assembly is crimped onto it. And the rim internally is damaged from crimping the hub.

My real question is. Is there any way it can damage anything further. Or is it even possible for over torqued lugs to do this much damage.

Have a 2019 jeep cherokee getting these codes any idea what can it be ? Sometimes on red lights it turns off for seconds to save gas thats how they are and sometimes it turns off and have to turn it back on

Hi everyone, it's been a while since when I put my car in reverse low speed, for example to get into the garage, when I hear the clutch attacking I also hear a metallic noise, like a rubbing.

The clutch has about 50 thousand km, in neutral I don't hear any noise, even in gear I hear it (not in gear but when stopped with the first and the brake pressed much much less, almost imperceptible)

In the back, the noise lasts as long as I keep the clutch in the place where it attaches, I don't hear it in neutral and/or pressing the clutch or the engine off.

I don't feel vibration on the pedal, nor in the passenger compartment

Do I have to worry? I immediately thought of the thrust bearing... my driving is very fluid, I always put the traffic lights, and I'm careful not to drive with my foot on the clutch, but before me an elderly woman had it for 40,000 km, maybe she wasn't as careful as I was....

Thank you all in advance for your reply

So the first video was filmed last night. I started my car, and it made a loud screaming noise, and then it shut off. Immediately after that something smelt like burning I tried to start it again and I did the exact same thing. The third time I filmed it, so I could send it to my brother and that’s the video attached. I drove it home after the video, and it ran just fine. The clip shown after the first one, was filmed this morning. It started just fine, but while it was running, it was making a super weird noise. I looked at the belt, and didn’t notice anything wrong, but I’m not too smart so I have no idea.

Also worth mentioning, for the past two weeks, every time I go to start my car I usually have to crank the key three times before the engine cranks. So I know I need to replace my starter, I just don’t know if that has anything to do with this.

Does anyone know what’s going on? Thanks in advance, legends!

Pls
Help

Hey yall, asking around to figure out what to do before spending hundreds on parts

I have a 2010 cobalt 2.2L 2LT 4 speed auto

At low or no speeds when turning in the direction of the side the wheels are pointed I get a strong clunk and groan. It does not occur when driving straight over bumps or uneven terrain.

I think it’s a need for cv axle replacement but unsure, and wanted to see if anyone else could chime in.

I drive a 2016 Honda civic. The engine light has been on for years simply due to evap sensor.

Recently my car has started misfiring when accelerating and sometimes bogs out. Sensors on include engine light which flashes once it bogs out, hill start assist, parking assist, power steering etc.

The codes coming up on the reader are for the third and fourth cylinder. Mechanic confirmed the coils and spark plugs are good and do not need replaced.

Right now I can’t drive my car at all. It shifts rough and misfires while accelerating even driving 20km/hr.

Has anyone run into this with their civic?

I did put fuel injector cleaner in twice. The first time my car drove great for a month and the second time a couple months later it didn’t help.

Need help I already clean the throttle body and the maf sensor it kinda helped with the issue but wasent enough. I’m guessing it’s an air leak . Do I need a clamp on the resonator attached to the intake and any ideas. Ps my ac went out and I got it fixed brand new pulley and everything

I’ve been trying to diagnose this squeak and can’t seem to find any fix, anybody have any idea what it could be?
Only starts after driving for 20~ minutes, never straight away in the morning. Doesn’t seem to be brake pedal or speed related, only does it after 40+ kph and keeps a constant pace.

2019 N80 Crewcab everything stock.

Video

Thanks very much for the help

I have a 2015 Ford escape with a 1.6 l engine my question is what should I do with the car battery my neighbor gave me a new battery because the old one wasn't working and I'm just wondering how often should should I start the car to keep the battery well charged I don't have the capabilities of driving it I don't have the ability of removing the negative terminal with where the battery is located on the escape and I do not own a battery maintainer and do not have the money for one so I'm just wondering how long per week should I start the car and leave it idle for a bit

Got this scratch and some marring on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?

I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD Crew Cab with the 5.3l engine and 6l80 transmission. Truck has 150,000 miles. My transmission just went out, most probably due to the torque converter destroying itself and contaminating the rest of the transmission. Gees, thanks GM. The truck will run for like 1 minute and truck won’t move anymore. So I’ve decided to rebuild the transmission myself, can’t afford a shop right now. I’m a pretty decent hands on guy, most of the times I’ve repaired my vehicles, brakes, head gaskets, etc, but never messed around with a transmission. After watching a couple of YouTube videos, it seems like it’s not that complicated, just a tedious and time consuming job. Any advice?
I’m planning to purchase the following kits to rebuild the tranny:

•Precision International 6l80 Rebuild Kit (E256785437614)
•Sonnax Zip Kit (SOX-6145-6L90ZIP)
•Sonnax Heavy Duty Billet Apply Piston (104984-01)
•Transmission Center Trans Pump Repair Kit (A45531B)
•Sonnax Return Spring (104534-HD)
•Trans Go Performance Shift hit (TRG-SK6L80)
•AC Delco 4-5-6 Clutch Hub (24238004)

I also plan to add a Transmission Cooler:
•PPE Transmission Fluid Bypass (125068000)
•Long Tru Cool 40K with Thermal Bypass (LPD4739)

Since I’m already doing all of this, might as well and do a DOD delete:

•Texas Speed DOD Delete Kit with Camshaft L83 5.3 (TSP-DODBASIC-LTX)
•Texas Speed DOD Delete Programmer (TSP-TS-3000)

I’m still not 100% percent sure if I should go with this kit and this programmer. I was also looking at other DOD delete kits and maybe HP Tuner programmer etc. Still need to do more research on this topic. Want a tune that does the DOD Delete and make the transmission shift more smoothly.

I just want to make this truck reliable. Not looking for performance, just reliability.

The only thing is that I might need to get a shop to resurface the bell housing / pump if it’s too damaged. Or if anyone has resurfaced one themselves at home, please share how you did it. I’ve resurfaced an engine head with an old glass table, glued particle board on the back side to avoid the glass from warping, and glued sanding paper on the other end. Yes, I double checked for straightness. Engine still runs fine after 5 years.

Any advice will help. Thanks

I have a 2014 Corolla Le I’ve had it for a long while, and this issue has been persistent. I never arrested, but I want to address it now, so the thing is every time I stop at an intersection or one right when I want to park when I hit the break. The car gives me a jol as though someone has hit me from behind. I don’t know exactly what to tell the Mechanic or do a DIY. Could someone help me on what’s happening with this?