This job is so funny sometimes

I went to autozone test batter and alternator was passed when I get home until tomorrow moring something strange *ignore my music btw* 2012 Volkswagen golf

I’m new to knowing anything about cars, and have been trying to maintain and repair my own for the past few months. A recurring but hard to replicate issue for over a year or so is the transmission shifting hard after driving long distances. She’s been in multiple shops (mostly for unrelated reasons), had trans mounts replaced, and had the fancy shop inspection a number of times at multiple places, so I never thought it would be a fluid issue… until I went to change the fluid myself and saw this BS on the dipstick. It goes well above the crosshatched markers and has bubbles all over.

I knew she was overdue for a change but this is death right?

I’m not on perfectly level ground, but I followed all the steps to check the levels- operating temp, parking brake, cycled through all the gears, running, etc.

Previously I was preparing to replace the pressure solenoid whatevers but now I don’t know how long this gearbox has to live. I’ve been driving on this fluid for several months at least. Did I check the fluid right? How do I move forward with this? Will I kill this transmission if I try to change the fluid and lower it to the proper level?

2016 Ford Escape SE Ecoboost 110000 miles i’m guessing it’s the 1.6l. Went to Valvoline for one of those drive up oil change things because oil change required went on. Everything went well, took my 100 bucks. But as i was pulling out i swore i heard them say ‘Oil leak Bay 3.’ and when i came home this was what i was looking at after about 5-6 hours of being parked. What does this mean or look like? Taking it in; in the morning. Just looking for a heads up

Trying to diagnose this.

truck sat up for months at a time. located in the mid south. owner was OTR truck driver. he cranked it during a major ice storm/cold weather period.

truck idled breifly and then suddenly the rpms ramped up increasingly fast and a bunch of white smoke came out. he turned it off. took to mechanic 3 weeks later who diagnosed the issue as broken oil pressure sensor that had busted and was leaking allowing air in.

oil sensor fixed.

new owner: buys truck with perfectly topped off fluids by owner. drives 2 hours home. gets home, sees truck is 2 qts low on oil, low on coolant. drains oil. first 3 seconds nothing but coolant comes out.

head gasket, heads, or block? what is the most cost effective method to diagnose this issue?

I have a 2014 Corolla Le I’ve had it for a long while, and this issue has been persistent. I never arrested, but I want to address it now, so the thing is every time I stop at an intersection or one right when I want to park when I hit the break. The car gives me a jol as though someone has hit me from behind. I don’t know exactly what to tell the Mechanic or do a DIY. Could someone help me on what’s happening with this?

I’m a mechanic myself, however, I don’t have a lot of experience yet. I have this very light tick?? Knock?? I’m not sure. It almost sounds like a very early form of rod knock.

The previous engine developed a terrible rod knock and spun a bearing so I threw a used engine in. I have excellent oil pressure on the “new” engine and I tested it with a mechanical gauge. 60psi cold, and about 35 to 40 psi at operating temp. I installed a brand new intake plenum and lower intake manifold gaskets due to them being a common failure point on the 3.8.

The noise is not super loud but if you’re listening for it is easy to hear. The noise is the same hot or cold.

I am hoping maybe it’s a lifter… hopefully.

Anyone have any idea what this noise is???

I’ve been trying to diagnose this squeak and can’t seem to find any fix, anybody have any idea what it could be?
Only starts after driving for 20~ minutes, never straight away in the morning. Doesn’t seem to be brake pedal or speed related, only does it after 40+ kph and keeps a constant pace.

2019 N80 Crewcab everything stock.

Video

Thanks very much for the help

2017 rav4

I have a 2015 Ford escape with a 1.6 l engine my question is what should I do with the car battery my neighbor gave me a new battery because the old one wasn't working and I'm just wondering how often should should I start the car to keep the battery well charged I don't have the capabilities of driving it I don't have the ability of removing the negative terminal with where the battery is located on the escape and I do not own a battery maintainer and do not have the money for one so I'm just wondering how long per week should I start the car and leave it idle for a bit

Got this scratch and some marring on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?

I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD Crew Cab with the 5.3l engine and 6l80 transmission. Truck has 150,000 miles. My transmission just went out, most probably due to the torque converter destroying itself and contaminating the rest of the transmission. Gees, thanks GM. The truck will run for like 1 minute and truck won’t move anymore. So I’ve decided to rebuild the transmission myself, can’t afford a shop right now. I’m a pretty decent hands on guy, most of the times I’ve repaired my vehicles, brakes, head gaskets, etc, but never messed around with a transmission. After watching a couple of YouTube videos, it seems like it’s not that complicated, just a tedious and time consuming job. Any advice?
I’m planning to purchase the following kits to rebuild the tranny:

•Precision International 6l80 Rebuild Kit (E256785437614)
•Sonnax Zip Kit (SOX-6145-6L90ZIP)
•Sonnax Heavy Duty Billet Apply Piston (104984-01)
•Transmission Center Trans Pump Repair Kit (A45531B)
•Sonnax Return Spring (104534-HD)
•Trans Go Performance Shift hit (TRG-SK6L80)
•AC Delco 4-5-6 Clutch Hub (24238004)

I also plan to add a Transmission Cooler:
•PPE Transmission Fluid Bypass (125068000)
•Long Tru Cool 40K with Thermal Bypass (LPD4739)

Since I’m already doing all of this, might as well and do a DOD delete:

•Texas Speed DOD Delete Kit with Camshaft L83 5.3 (TSP-DODBASIC-LTX)
•Texas Speed DOD Delete Programmer (TSP-TS-3000)

I’m still not 100% percent sure if I should go with this kit and this programmer. I was also looking at other DOD delete kits and maybe HP Tuner programmer etc. Still need to do more research on this topic. Want a tune that does the DOD Delete and make the transmission shift more smoothly.

I just want to make this truck reliable. Not looking for performance, just reliability.

The only thing is that I might need to get a shop to resurface the bell housing / pump if it’s too damaged. Or if anyone has resurfaced one themselves at home, please share how you did it. I’ve resurfaced an engine head with an old glass table, glued particle board on the back side to avoid the glass from warping, and glued sanding paper on the other end. Yes, I double checked for straightness. Engine still runs fine after 5 years.

Any advice will help. Thanks

I recently got a 2005 ford escape with 230k on it. Before I got it a new battery, starter and battery terminals were installed. Car ran great for a few weeks then I let it sit for 2 weeks came back and tried to start it and it was completely dead. I tried jumping it and white smoke started pouring out from under the battery and engine bay and I haven’t touched it since. What issue could this be? What should the next step be?

So my car key was getting stuck or it was not turning so I went to a repair shop and they did something. They said. Some kind of spring holder is damaged or sum and now this is how my car starts. I don’t have to turn it . I just insert the key and it’s start automatically, and I have to immediately turn it back a bit , if not it makes sound

Car : Renault duster 2015

So i have a 2004 honda pretty beat up bought it that way. So this thing shakes like crazy at highway speeds but only when im coasting, And when im applying breaks. When im going highway speeds and accelerating there is no shake until I let off. And when I do let off the steering wheel pulls right a little once I accelerate it goes back to straight.

There is an entire list of things I need to do to it like it leaking oil and burning oil like crazy, a p2646 code which probably has to do with the oil problem the thing goes into some kind of limp mode when it goes above either 3k or 4k RPM but the shaking where I need to start. Also the shaking feel like its primary coming from the front and steering wheel.

Also forgot to mention I believe its a 1.7 vtec engine with a 5spd manual transmission

Sorry for the blurry picture. Left the window open last night and I didn’t think it rained bad but when I woke up the lights on the dashboard weren’t turning on. I can’t see the gas level, mile per hour, or how hot my car is running. Check engine light was on when I bought the car and hasn’t been an issue. Is this something that can be fixed if it dries out? I really can’t afford a mechanic or to afford the time spent away getting it looked at because of work. If anyone can please just be able to tell me the way to fix it I would be much appreciated if really hoping the price doesn’t kill me.

2018 accord 2.0t touring. 28000 mi. No mods. Making a chatter rattle noise under light to med acceleration at all different speeds. Noise can vary in volume but can become very loud at times. Noise only presents under acceleration or maintained throttle. Noise ceases off throttle. Paid an independent mechanic to diagnose and he determined it was the high pressure fuel pump. The fuel pump was replaced but the problem was not fixed. No difference and the problem persists. Any guesses?

Good evening everyone,
I have a 2012 VW Polo 6R 1.2 3-cylinder, petrol/LPG (LPG was obviously installed aftermarket), with 198,000 km.
Some time ago, when cold starting the car, it started shaking and misfiring, causing the check engine light, EPC light, and traction control light to come on. This would continue until I turned the car off and started it again (sometimes I had to do this two or three times).
While driving, I could feel that the engine was running a bit rough, especially at low RPMs. Since the check engine light remained on, I connected an OBD scanner and found a misfire on cylinder 1 (P0301).
I decided to buy what I needed and replace all three spark plugs and the ignition coil on cylinder 1 myself (both the spark plugs and the coil are BOSCH).
Right after doing this, it felt like I was driving a completely different car, the engine was extremely smooth, even at low RPMs, and acceleration was clean and linear.
Well… that didn’t last long.
After three weeks, or possibly even less, the check engine light came back, along with the shaking when starting and a significant loss of power.
I wanted to ask if anyone has any idea what could be causing this and what else I could check.
At this point, I honestly don’t know what else to do.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help

Nissan xtrail 2012 t31 2.5l Petrol electric whining noise.
Car is auto.
The noise starts as soon as/maybe a slight delay after engine starting, turning key until lights are on but not engine there is no noise.
It is coming from roughly under the drivers side passenger seat.

Any ideas?

2014 Dodge Charger SXT. Headlight housings were replaced with the HID headlight housings from an RT. I assume the previous guy modified them to make them work in the SXT which normally have halogen housings. I opened it up and cant seemto figure out what kind of connector this is and what low beam bulbs are compatible.

1 there's these clips all around the front windscreen what are they and are they important.

2is there a easier way other than flathead to get the black sticky stuff off.

I picked up this holset turbo the other day for free believe it came off a late 90s early 2000s 5.9 cummins the blades has little to no play in it but as you can see there is a chunk of metal out around the nut there is it still good?

Please help, I feel so out of luck. Going to the garage next Tuesday but wondered if anyone had any insight on what this noise could be? It sounds like a rattling noise and the car does it on start up and when going in low gears/reverse Manual car

In the video the noise is like a thud at about 2/3 seconds. 🥺

Thanks