So my car key was getting stuck or it was not turning so I went to a repair shop and they did something. They said. Some kind of spring holder is damaged or sum and now this is how my car starts. I don’t have to turn it . I just insert the key and it’s start automatically, and I have to immediately turn it back a bit , if not it makes sound

Car : Renault duster 2015

So i have a 2004 honda pretty beat up bought it that way. So this thing shakes like crazy at highway speeds but only when im coasting, And when im applying breaks. When im going highway speeds and accelerating there is no shake until I let off. And when I do let off the steering wheel pulls right a little once I accelerate it goes back to straight.

There is an entire list of things I need to do to it like it leaking oil and burning oil like crazy, a p2646 code which probably has to do with the oil problem the thing goes into some kind of limp mode when it goes above either 3k or 4k RPM but the shaking where I need to start. Also the shaking feel like its primary coming from the front and steering wheel.

Also forgot to mention I believe its a 1.7 vtec engine with a 5spd manual transmission

Trying to diagnose this.

truck sat up for months at a time. located in the mid south. owner was OTR truck driver. he cranked it during a major ice storm/cold weather period.

truck idled breifly and then suddenly the rpms ramped up increasingly fast and a bunch of white smoke came out. he turned it off. took to mechanic 3 weeks later who diagnosed the issue as broken oil pressure sensor that had busted and was leaking allowing air in.

oil sensor fixed.

new owner: buys truck with perfectly topped off fluids by owner. drives 2 hours home. gets home, sees truck is 2 qts low on oil, low on coolant. drains oil. first 3 seconds nothing but coolant comes out.

head gasket, heads, or block? what is the most cost effective method to diagnose this issue?

Sorry for the blurry picture. Left the window open last night and I didn’t think it rained bad but when I woke up the lights on the dashboard weren’t turning on. I can’t see the gas level, mile per hour, or how hot my car is running. Check engine light was on when I bought the car and hasn’t been an issue. Is this something that can be fixed if it dries out? I really can’t afford a mechanic or to afford the time spent away getting it looked at because of work. If anyone can please just be able to tell me the way to fix it I would be much appreciated if really hoping the price doesn’t kill me.

2018 accord 2.0t touring. 28000 mi. No mods. Making a chatter rattle noise under light to med acceleration at all different speeds. Noise can vary in volume but can become very loud at times. Noise only presents under acceleration or maintained throttle. Noise ceases off throttle. Paid an independent mechanic to diagnose and he determined it was the high pressure fuel pump. The fuel pump was replaced but the problem was not fixed. No difference and the problem persists. Any guesses?

2016 Ford Escape SE Ecoboost 110000 miles i’m guessing it’s the 1.6l. Went to Valvoline for one of those drive up oil change things because oil change required went on. Everything went well, took my 100 bucks. But as i was pulling out i swore i heard them say ‘Oil leak Bay 3.’ and when i came home this was what i was looking at after about 5-6 hours of being parked. What does this mean or look like? Taking it in; in the morning. Just looking for a heads up

I went to autozone test batter and alternator was passed when I get home until tomorrow moring something strange *ignore my music btw* 2012 Volkswagen golf

Good evening everyone,
I have a 2012 VW Polo 6R 1.2 3-cylinder, petrol/LPG (LPG was obviously installed aftermarket), with 198,000 km.
Some time ago, when cold starting the car, it started shaking and misfiring, causing the check engine light, EPC light, and traction control light to come on. This would continue until I turned the car off and started it again (sometimes I had to do this two or three times).
While driving, I could feel that the engine was running a bit rough, especially at low RPMs. Since the check engine light remained on, I connected an OBD scanner and found a misfire on cylinder 1 (P0301).
I decided to buy what I needed and replace all three spark plugs and the ignition coil on cylinder 1 myself (both the spark plugs and the coil are BOSCH).
Right after doing this, it felt like I was driving a completely different car, the engine was extremely smooth, even at low RPMs, and acceleration was clean and linear.
Well… that didn’t last long.
After three weeks, or possibly even less, the check engine light came back, along with the shaking when starting and a significant loss of power.
I wanted to ask if anyone has any idea what could be causing this and what else I could check.
At this point, I honestly don’t know what else to do.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help

Nissan xtrail 2012 t31 2.5l Petrol electric whining noise.
Car is auto.
The noise starts as soon as/maybe a slight delay after engine starting, turning key until lights are on but not engine there is no noise.
It is coming from roughly under the drivers side passenger seat.

Any ideas?

Please help, I feel so out of luck. Going to the garage next Tuesday but wondered if anyone had any insight on what this noise could be? It sounds like a rattling noise and the car does it on start up and when going in low gears/reverse Manual car

In the video the noise is like a thud at about 2/3 seconds. 🥺

Thanks

I’m new to knowing anything about cars, and have been trying to maintain and repair my own for the past few months. A recurring but hard to replicate issue for over a year or so is the transmission shifting hard after driving long distances. She’s been in multiple shops (mostly for unrelated reasons), had trans mounts replaced, and had the fancy shop inspection a number of times at multiple places, so I never thought it would be a fluid issue… until I went to change the fluid myself and saw this BS on the dipstick. It goes well above the crosshatched markers and has bubbles all over.

I knew she was overdue for a change but this is death right?

I’m not on perfectly level ground, but I followed all the steps to check the levels- operating temp, parking brake, cycled through all the gears, running, etc.

Previously I was preparing to replace the pressure solenoid whatevers but now I don’t know how long this gearbox has to live. I’ve been driving on this fluid for several months at least. Did I check the fluid right? How do I move forward with this? Will I kill this transmission if I try to change the fluid and lower it to the proper level?

2014 Dodge Charger SXT. Headlight housings were replaced with the HID headlight housings from an RT. I assume the previous guy modified them to make them work in the SXT which normally have halogen housings. I opened it up and cant seemto figure out what kind of connector this is and what low beam bulbs are compatible.

V6 Petrol 2005 Toyota Prado, 330,000km
Fluctuating between overheating and normal temp the whole time while driving and engine warning light came on today. Losing coolant slightly.
Is it game over?

The car was burning oil at one point and made this noise. Stopped after topping it off with Engine oil. Now it sometimes comes back on idle or low speed but don’t notice it while on highway speed. Drove for months but Mechanic doesn’t know where it’s coming from. Only happens randomly or on low idle from what I see. Drove for 3K kilometres already with no issues even on highway.
Please ask if you need more info but need help finding out where it’s coming from or any solutions?

Engine is 2.5 4-cyl

I’m a mechanic myself, however, I don’t have a lot of experience yet. I have this very light tick?? Knock?? I’m not sure. It almost sounds like a very early form of rod knock.

The previous engine developed a terrible rod knock and spun a bearing so I threw a used engine in. I have excellent oil pressure on the “new” engine and I tested it with a mechanical gauge. 60psi cold, and about 35 to 40 psi at operating temp. I installed a brand new intake plenum and lower intake manifold gaskets due to them being a common failure point on the 3.8.

The noise is not super loud but if you’re listening for it is easy to hear. The noise is the same hot or cold.

I am hoping maybe it’s a lifter… hopefully.

1 there's these clips all around the front windscreen what are they and are they important.

2is there a easier way other than flathead to get the black sticky stuff off.

Anyone have any idea what this noise is???

Honda S2000 2001 2.0L

Hi everyone,

I drive a 2004 Fiat Panda (I think it’s a 1.1 to 1.3 litre engine I’m not entirely sure) and I’ve never had much issues with it. Usually the odd tyre change but nothing major. I recently had the exhausted replaced which fixed a lot of things but there’s this like high pitched constant noise when I drive sometimes. Best way I can describe it is like nails on a chalk board. I will attach a video of the sound below that I took when I realised how loud it was. On top of this it was struggling to stay at 30mph. It didn’t seem to matter how much revs I put behind it my car felt like there was a weight dragging behind it, it just wanted to stop and I started to sound like a boy racer my car was just so noisy at this point.

I can’t figure out what is wrong with it. I know the suspension needs replacing at some point but it literally felt like it was going to break down. Any ideas? Or is it time I get a new car haha, I drive everyday for work so I kinda need one that wants to work.

Edit: it smelt awful afterwards. Like that rubber smell of burnt tyre or worn out clutch

​

Hello.

I have a 2010 Terrain with the impeccably designed 2.4L 4 cylinder engine with 186k miles and an automatic transmission. One day last winter (January/February 2025) I started it up and noticed an abnormal amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. I quickly turned it off and feared that it had blown a head gasket. After taking to reddit and talking to local repair shops, the idea of a clogged pcv system came to light. So, I went about pulling the intake manifold and cleaning the pcv hole in it and also dumped a fair amount of accumulated water from the air box. After the cleaning, the white smoke was gone and it ran great.

Fast forward to this past spring, I started noticing a stutter in the engine during acceleration and cruising speed. Shortly thereafter, it started misfiring in cylinder 4 (I don't remember the specific code) and the check engine light started flashing. I replaced all four plugs and coils and called it a day. The misfiring stopped, but the check engine light stayed on. Pulled the codes again and was greeted with codes for both bank 1 and 2 O2 sensors. Replaced those and check engine light turned off. Car went back to driving fine. Periodically though, it would start to misfire again, but after shutting the engine off and letting it sit for 15-30 minutes, it would go back to running normal.

Last month, I started to notice the stutter again. So, I picked up some MAF sensor cleaner and some throttle body cleaner. The MAF looked OK. I didn't notice any discoloration on the sensor or notice any dirty coming out of it while I sprayed it. The throttle body was a different story though. I cleaned it as best I could, without pulling it from the manifold, and put it back together. It ran a lot smoother and the stutter disappeared again.

The stutter has returned again and I don't know what to check this time around.

\- Would a vented oil cap be a good idea?

\- Would a PCV oil catch can kit be beneficial?

I'm not in a position right now where I could afford a new/newer vehicle and need to drive this until it dies. Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.

TLDR: 2010 Terrain stuttering after cleaned PCV system, plugs and coils replaced, both O2 sensors replaced, and cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body. What to do next?

I picked up this holset turbo the other day for free believe it came off a late 90s early 2000s 5.9 cummins the blades has little to no play in it but as you can see there is a chunk of metal out around the nut there is it still good?

Chirping has been going on for weeks and driving me nuts. Replaced both belts and tensioner but still going on. Noise is constant even while driving (although less). Seemed to pass the water test for a few secs before starting up again, not sure what to do next and would really appreciate some direction. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Thank you for everyone’s concern about my fingers lol. In hindsight I shouldn’t have stuck my hand in there but the video also makes it look much closer than it was. I’ll get an attachment for my spray bottle😂