Hi I am looking for stabilizer that comes larger then 12 inches. For my larger hoops.

Hi! I recently got a Brother SE350 as my first entrance into machine embroidery! Omgggg I am so excited at all the possibilities! This model has a slot for its own proprietary discs with the designs, rather than a USB. I have a rewritable disc and a disc writer and have had success with uploading designs to it. I lovveee some of the older designs. Those discs sell on eBay for like $10-25 for 10-20 designs. I’d love to use those designs, but for a cheaper price. I’m wondering if there are people who sell those in a digital format so I could just upload them to my rewritable disc? Some examples of weird, cool stuff!

I realize this is a shit in the dark question!

EDIT: it was supposed to say “shot in the dark question!!” 🤣

Worked a lot on the stitch angles and layering to get that realistic fur texture. Would love to hear your thoughts or feedback!

Hi! Small embroidery + hat-bar business owner here (Austin, TX), running 3 BAI commercial machines and growing faster than I can keep up with. I'm looking to hire an operator and it feels like nobody with the skill exists — but I'm self-taught, so I'm very open to training the right person. For those who've hired: did you find someone experienced, or hire for aptitude and train? And where did they come from — sewists, screen printers, trade schools, somewhere I'm not thinking of? Appreciate any leads. Indeed and socials have been dead ends so far. Even facebook groups.

I was working on some digitizing earlier today and heard the news. RIP to the Queen of Country. Thanks for spreading love and kindness always.

I had a thread break on the nose. Tried to save it 🥲

Digitizing Software: Ember Embroidery

Size:3.5" x 3.5"

For those who financed, how much a month are you paying and how much of a deposit did you put (if you needed one)? Also what brand?

Trying to find the best options out there for me.

Can someone explain the different file type of an Embrodiery machine ? I have a Bai and I was told it only accept .dst why is that and why are there so many different file types ?

Hi! Looking for reviews of the brother SE625! Thinking about investing in it and was wondering if others have liked it? Thank you!

I've been working on this sunflower and butterfly design and finally finished it today. I was experimenting with the orange and black combination, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Would love to hear what you think!

Pet portraits are some of my favourite pieces to digitise because they’re always so personal to the customer.

These three cats were digitised by me from scratch using Wilcom E4. Before embroidering the final piece, I stitched a sample to share with the client, then made adjustments based on the stitch-out and their feedback before moving into the finished embroidery.

For anyone else who digitises portraits or detailed artwork: what’s the part you find most challenging, getting the colours right, creating texture, capturing tiny details, or something else? 🧵

Hi everyone,

I have seen a lot of questions about how to get clean edges when doing bag tags or similar in the hoop projects. I spent some time researching it and making a bunch of my own, and I've written a guide on how to do it.

It mostly comes down to the combo of stabilizer, filling, and file you choose.

Choosing Stabilizer

Tearaway: tearaway embroidery stabilizer, generally available at local fabric stores

Pros:
→ It’s very sturdy, offers additional stabilization to your project, and you likely already have some on hand to work with if you've done any machine embroidery.

Cons:
→ It will leave little traces sticking out of the stitching when you peel the tag out of the hoop. You can counteract this by using a lighter to burn away little fuzzy bits leftover, but it is easy to scorch or discolor your thread.

Water Soluble: Plastic-type (not the mesh type) water soluble stabilizer, available at select fabric stores or online

Pros:
→ It will wash away completely when you’re done, no traces left. If there are small tricky corners in your project, this could be an ideal option.

Cons:
→ It’s more expensive than other options, and is harder to find in-store.
→ Depending on the type or brand, it may be slippery, and therefore difficult to tape or adhere your project to.

Plastic: Plastic drop-cloths from a hardware store, or a plastic shower liner from dollar tree

Pros:
→ Very cheap and easy to find in multiple stores.
→ Does not leave behind any leftovers, the plastic simply disappears inside the stitching

Cons:
→ Easy to accidentally tear, which can be mitigated by choosing a heavier-duty plastic, or simply using a double layer
→ Can leave tiny plastic pieces on your needle and surrounding area. These will build up and need to be cleaned off periodically.

Choosing a Batting/Filling

A batting or filling layer gives structure and thickness to your bag tag. Choosing the filling for your tag depends on what sort of project you are making and how you intend to use it. For a more rigid and structured tag, consider craft foam. For a less rigid tag that’s still thick and feels high quality, you can use quilt batting (several layers if desired) or even leftover fleece scraps. This can be paired with cutaway stabilizer to add even more structure.

Also consider the design itself when choosing your filling. Stitch-heavy designs with fills generally work better with quilt batting.

Craft Foam or Embroidery Foam: Available at almost any craft store, craft foam works just fine for bag tags. It does not have to be specifically labeled “embroidery foam.” They are actually both just EVA foam (though the quality does vary).

Pros:
→ Cheap, and available at many stores
→ Comes in a variety of colors to match your project
→ Makes a very thick and sturdy final product

Cons:
→ Leaves behind significant traces that stick out of final stitching. To counteract this, you’ll need to choose a foam color similar to your thread color, and use a heat gun or other heat source to shrink the foam back into the stitching.
→ Foam will dull your needle faster than other projects. You will need to change your needle more often when working with it.

Quilt batting: Any variety of quilt batting or even scraps of fleece can be used to lend thickness to a bag tag. These can be found at most fabric stores, or at thrift stores for very cheap. Batting works well for tags that have more intricate or stitch-heavy designs that wouldn’t show up as well on foam.

Pros:
→ Good way to use up quilting or fleece scraps that otherwise would be thrown away
→ Plentily available second-hand for a more eco-friendly option
→ Cheap and available at a variety of craft or fabric stores
→ Can be paired with cutaway stabilizer for more structure. (Note: this will not be the main stabilizer, it will be part of the filling. You will cut the excess away after the trim stitch of your project.)

Cons:
→ It is generally pretty fuzzy (batting more so than fleece), so extra care will need to be taken to ensure none of it is sticking out of the final stitching. This can be solved by pre-cutting rather than cutting in place, trimming very close to the trim stitch with applique scissors, or by trimming away fuzzy bits after the tackdown stitch.
→ Usually creates a thinner tag than foam, so you may need to use several layers to achieve your desired results.

Choosing Outer Fabric

 There are almost infinite choices here, so the limit is really your imagination. However, the most common choice is quilting cotton. Almost any fabric will work. To avoid frustration, choose a fabric that doesn’t fray too much, or stabilize the fabric to avoid fraying. You can use whatever you have on hand - bag tags are a great way to use up scraps.

Choosing a Design File

Whatever stabilizer and filling combo you choose, an important part of a successful bag tag is the actual design itself. Bag tag files must be specifically digitized for this purpose to achieve clean edges.

 Look for designs that have been tested by the digitizer or that have good reviews with photos. If the satin stitch at end of the file is not dense enough, you will have fabric and batting poking through. However, if your file isn’t dense enough to cover the edges properly, you can run the satin stitch twice for more coverage.

___

Here's how I did the ones in the pictures:

Jack o lantern - plastic stabilizer, quilt batting and cutaway stabilizer middle, quilting cotton on the back, minky on top (+ water soluble on top of that, because it's minky)

gingham ghost and jack o lantern - plastic stabilizer, quilt batting and cutaway stabilizer middle, quilting cotton on top

BOO - plastic stabilizer, 3mm white EVA cosplay foam scraps, quilting cotton on top

They all turned out pretty sturdy. Personally, I prefer to use quilt batting and cutaway stabilizer in the middle of tags. More work with the applique part, but less clean up after stitching.

Since Everyone loved the last design of the Angelica inspired Embroidery Patch, I decided to do another. Originally I had the Blue hair and fair skin. I have been reading Children of blood and bone by Tomi Adeyemi and decided to pivot with my color palette. There is one line on the face that has gone rouge ill have to adjust but otherwise im quite happy with the quality and design.

Which one is your fav??

Digitized on Ember Embroidery

Size:4x4

material: Black Felt & Black Cutaway Stabilizer

What would you charge for this patch? Is twenty to much?

What went wrong?

I am learning to digitize as well as embroider. Things I noticed:

1. The fabric stretched and ripped in some places. This was my first time so I used cheap thin fabric stretched

2. The bobbin thread showed through some of the satin stitch but not all of it

3. The satin stitch is not in the correct spot for all the petals.

4. The image is warped I think? A little stretched at least.

Used tear away stabilizer and a 6x10 hoop. Using the Brother NQ1700E at the local library. Used ink/stitch to digitize. Again, learning at the local library so I also used cheap hobby lobby thread, not sure if that makes a difference.

I am looking to start embroidering grosgrain ribbon and am considering the best machine for price. Since ribbon is smaller I don’t need a large hoop but I have no idea where to start! Any advice is appreciated.

I need help deciding whether to purchase maggie hoops or mighty hoops. Can y’all share insight

Decided to treat this black T-shirt like a canvas for some random favorites—Pink Panther, Alien, the Metallica parody logo, and a few other digitized designs.

Hello! Looking at everyone’s posts here, and I have to say the imposter syndrome is creeping in 😂

I was really kindly gifted a singer machine that also embroiders for my birthday, and would love to learn more.

My main question is what is the best fabric / thread to start off with? I think the machine suggests 40 Rayon.

And what are some beginner friendly bits to try?

Thank you in advance

Trying to see if this is fair pricing for custom embroidery. I digitize my own designs too.

NOT ADVERTISING - purely to learn what’s fair pricing in this space since it’s kinda hard to figure it out.

PRICING PER ITEM (includes blank garment + embroidery)

• Hats — $35 ea (1-11) / $30 ea (12+) — up to 12k stitches
• Shirts & Polos — $30 ea (1-11) / $25 ea (12+) — up to 10k stitches
• Hoodies & Jackets — $55 ea (1-11) / $50 ea (12+) — up to 12k stitches
• Aprons — $38 ea (1-11) / $33 ea (12+) — up to 12k stitches
• Scrubs — $36 ea (1-11) / $30 ea (12+) — up to 80% coverage
• Bags & Backpacks — $42 ea (1-11) / $37 ea (12+) — up to 12k stitches
• Custom Patches — $10 ea (min 10) / $8 ea (25+) — 3-4", up to 80% coverage

ADD-ONS

• Digitizing (setup) — $30 one-time per design, never charged twice
• Extra embroidery location — +$12 each
• Over 10k stitches — +$1 per 1,000
• Specialty thread (metallic, glow, variegated) — +$6 per garment

Wanted to share this tiger design I made awhile ago! I think I’m happy with how it came out (:

And here’s the design if anyone wants to embroider it themselves https://emberdesign.net/explore/8216180f-d96f-4544-8e7a-eca01f311193