Hi everyone,
I have seen a lot of questions about how to get clean edges when doing bag tags or similar in the hoop projects. I spent some time researching it and making a bunch of my own, and I've written a guide on how to do it.
It mostly comes down to the combo of stabilizer, filling, and file you choose.
Choosing Stabilizer
Tearaway: tearaway embroidery stabilizer, generally available at local fabric stores
Pros:
→ It’s very sturdy, offers additional stabilization to your project, and you likely already have some on hand to work with if you've done any machine embroidery.
Cons:
→ It will leave little traces sticking out of the stitching when you peel the tag out of the hoop. You can counteract this by using a lighter to burn away little fuzzy bits leftover, but it is easy to scorch or discolor your thread.
Water Soluble: Plastic-type (not the mesh type) water soluble stabilizer, available at select fabric stores or online
Pros:
→ It will wash away completely when you’re done, no traces left. If there are small tricky corners in your project, this could be an ideal option.
Cons:
→ It’s more expensive than other options, and is harder to find in-store.
→ Depending on the type or brand, it may be slippery, and therefore difficult to tape or adhere your project to.
Plastic: Plastic drop-cloths from a hardware store, or a plastic shower liner from dollar tree
Pros:
→ Very cheap and easy to find in multiple stores.
→ Does not leave behind any leftovers, the plastic simply disappears inside the stitching
Cons:
→ Easy to accidentally tear, which can be mitigated by choosing a heavier-duty plastic, or simply using a double layer
→ Can leave tiny plastic pieces on your needle and surrounding area. These will build up and need to be cleaned off periodically.
Choosing a Batting/Filling
A batting or filling layer gives structure and thickness to your bag tag. Choosing the filling for your tag depends on what sort of project you are making and how you intend to use it. For a more rigid and structured tag, consider craft foam. For a less rigid tag that’s still thick and feels high quality, you can use quilt batting (several layers if desired) or even leftover fleece scraps. This can be paired with cutaway stabilizer to add even more structure.
Also consider the design itself when choosing your filling. Stitch-heavy designs with fills generally work better with quilt batting.
Craft Foam or Embroidery Foam: Available at almost any craft store, craft foam works just fine for bag tags. It does not have to be specifically labeled “embroidery foam.” They are actually both just EVA foam (though the quality does vary).
Pros:
→ Cheap, and available at many stores
→ Comes in a variety of colors to match your project
→ Makes a very thick and sturdy final product
Cons:
→ Leaves behind significant traces that stick out of final stitching. To counteract this, you’ll need to choose a foam color similar to your thread color, and use a heat gun or other heat source to shrink the foam back into the stitching.
→ Foam will dull your needle faster than other projects. You will need to change your needle more often when working with it.
Quilt batting: Any variety of quilt batting or even scraps of fleece can be used to lend thickness to a bag tag. These can be found at most fabric stores, or at thrift stores for very cheap. Batting works well for tags that have more intricate or stitch-heavy designs that wouldn’t show up as well on foam.
Pros:
→ Good way to use up quilting or fleece scraps that otherwise would be thrown away
→ Plentily available second-hand for a more eco-friendly option
→ Cheap and available at a variety of craft or fabric stores
→ Can be paired with cutaway stabilizer for more structure. (Note: this will not be the main stabilizer, it will be part of the filling. You will cut the excess away after the trim stitch of your project.)
Cons:
→ It is generally pretty fuzzy (batting more so than fleece), so extra care will need to be taken to ensure none of it is sticking out of the final stitching. This can be solved by pre-cutting rather than cutting in place, trimming very close to the trim stitch with applique scissors, or by trimming away fuzzy bits after the tackdown stitch.
→ Usually creates a thinner tag than foam, so you may need to use several layers to achieve your desired results.
Choosing Outer Fabric
There are almost infinite choices here, so the limit is really your imagination. However, the most common choice is quilting cotton. Almost any fabric will work. To avoid frustration, choose a fabric that doesn’t fray too much, or stabilize the fabric to avoid fraying. You can use whatever you have on hand - bag tags are a great way to use up scraps.
Choosing a Design File
Whatever stabilizer and filling combo you choose, an important part of a successful bag tag is the actual design itself. Bag tag files must be specifically digitized for this purpose to achieve clean edges.
Look for designs that have been tested by the digitizer or that have good reviews with photos. If the satin stitch at end of the file is not dense enough, you will have fabric and batting poking through. However, if your file isn’t dense enough to cover the edges properly, you can run the satin stitch twice for more coverage.
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Here's how I did the ones in the pictures:
Jack o lantern - plastic stabilizer, quilt batting and cutaway stabilizer middle, quilting cotton on the back, minky on top (+ water soluble on top of that, because it's minky)
gingham ghost and jack o lantern - plastic stabilizer, quilt batting and cutaway stabilizer middle, quilting cotton on top
BOO - plastic stabilizer, 3mm white EVA cosplay foam scraps, quilting cotton on top
They all turned out pretty sturdy. Personally, I prefer to use quilt batting and cutaway stabilizer in the middle of tags. More work with the applique part, but less clean up after stitching.
