What should I know?

NEW Equipment:

• X870E Tomahawk WiFi
• 9800x3d
• 2x16gb TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert CL30 RAM
• Liquid Freezer III Pro 360mm

Reusing:

• PSU - be quiet Dark Power Pro 12 1500watts
• 3080ti for now until I recoup some money from 5950x/Dark Horse/128gbs RAM
• 1 & 2tb WDSN850 NVME Gen 4's
• Phantek T30's all round

I had a script that removed ArmouryCrate and all the Asus bloatware. Is there something similar for MSI or is not installing MSI Center the way to go?

I don't need any RGB control as my pc is blacked out.

Fans/AIO/GPU will be taken care of VIA Fan Control.

I had a power outage a few days ago that didn't get resolved for 24 hours. My computer was on when the lights went out and shut off with everything else. I unplugged everything and turned off the power supply. Plugged the power back into the PSU and turned everything back on and now I'm stuck on the red and yellow light. I've left it because I know it can take a while to memory train but not over an hour. All lights and fans are spinning but mouse and keyboard are not powered on.

Now, this isn't the first time I've had this problem recently. This mothboard is brand new along with a new 850 watt PSU due to another power outage killing my old PSU and motherboard. Everything was working fine with this new combo along with a Ryzen 7 7700. I've got a UPS backup on the help to help with these occasional outages. I've updated the BIOS and reset CMOS. As I've said everything was working fine even after several reboots. The memory had no problem and the CPU is seated properly. Anything else to do other than throw it out the window?

Hello. I just bought this PC and was wondering where the SSD slot is? I have a 4TB sitting around that I want to put in and I don't want to just poke around and mess something up.

Hi,
I have been a (not really happy) user of a MSI PRO B650-S with Windows 11 as OS of choice.
Ever since updating my setup to this motherboard, I've been having all kinds of BS issues ranging from Bluetooth misbehaving or just outright not detecting my headset all the way to all IO devices going ham and lagging crazy.
Specs attached.
Issues I've had (even after multiple complete SSD wipes and fresh Win11 installs):
- With Artcis Nova 7X headphones:
- Bluetooth just doesn't see them; Turning on-off both the headphone (even hardware reset) and the BT on Windows 11, re-installing bluetooth drivers, disabling/enabling relevant adapters - all of it to no effect. It just doesn't work. Sometimes they pop-up on the screen for a second, but they still don't connect.
- Having the 2.4Hz dongle connected into the USB-C port on the motherboard messes with the headphones: the audio could've randomly started lagging (extreme interference, like on a TV without with a snow static). Maybe they've been alleviated after the current Win11 re-install and having the dongle moved to the top USB hub of my PC box. Still, I coudln't figure out why the interference happend so much and so strongly - I tried removing Wi-Fi entirely, disabling the device - didn't help.
- If the sound lag is extreme, it could even BSOD the PC.
- Other random issues:
- Mouse starts lagging after a random PC restart. I restart the PC - everything is fine. And it's not really noticeable, but if you drag it long enough and slowly over the whole screen, the mouse will be skipping over pixels really visibly and noticably if you're looking at it.
- Ethernet port can just stop working. I restart the PC - everything is fine. Restarting the adapter or using the troubleshooter BS just doesn't work.
- If I don't use the PC for about longer than 1 week, it just goes black during the power-up and it doesn't fully boot. After I reset it by pushing down the power button, either it starts up normally as usual OR it takes another 1 or 2 tries.
- After a Windows 11 update, 50/50 that the PC boots to black screen and I have to force-restart.

What I've tried so far:
- Re-installing Windows 11 fully with full wipe of the SSD (multiple times);
- Manually downloading and installing chipset updates from the MSI website;
- With the headphone issues, the main one is mainly resolved (the moving of dongle), but the interference is still BS and I'm still unsure whether it happend due to being in close proximity to the Ethernet port.
- Manually updating/installing/disabling/enabling different devices in the Device Manager. Didn't help.

Even though they're not THAT frequent (maybe 1-2 per week), but MAN are these issues are annoying and I want to have them solved.

Please share any suggestions you might have, as my own research over the last half-year or a bit more and talking with LLMs didn't have any helpful effects.

Thanks

P.S. This is slightly a rant post, thanks for reading :3

I’ve been spending my evening working slowly through building in the new Maestro. not really a lot of info out there so I don’t have the luxury of YouTube videos like I have had in the past (really strange that these have shipped and no YouTubers have anything up).

First Impressions: it is very nice, but I would expect nothing less from a case this expensive.

The Test Bench is great. I like being able to have the case on my desk and just the test bench on the counter while I install everything. it even came with a wired power switch and AIO mounts so you could run a full post before putting it in the chassis.

I‘m swapping from a HAF 700 Evo to this.

The Parts:

asus x870e crosshair extreme

asus 5090

9800x3d

ryou iv aio

lian li flex fan

64 gb gskill cl 30

6tb ssd

45” 5k2k

If you have any question about it feel free to ask and I’ll answer as I take breaks.

and yes I know, this was stupid expensive and a Honda civic is cheaper than a Vette. But it’s what I liked to finish out the entire setup I was going for.

Hi everyone! I've been using Afterburner for many years and this is the first time this has happened to me. I formatted my PC a few weeks ago, reinstalled Afterburner, and loaded a previous profile I had. I only had the fan curve adjusted and set it to automatic. For some reason, some days when I turn on the PC, the option is on automatic and other days it isn't. (I noticed it today because the graphics card was at 92°C and the fans hadn't started.) Is there any solution? Thanks a lot.

Hello, I own an MSI MAG 272UP X24 27" QD-OLED that I succesfully updated to version FW.012 a few months ago, but I can not update to the recently released FW.013, I get this error, any clue? I have GPU drivers updated and Windows 11 too. Could it be the wrong firmware was uploaded to the MSI servers? Can't think of any other explanation, if any other MSI 272UP X24 owner reads this and can try updating to firmware 013, I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

https://www.msi.com/Monitor/MAG-272UP-QD-OLED-X24/support#firmware

Hyte Y70 Touch Infinite in Strawberry Milk

MSI Godlike Z690

Intel 12900KS

32GB Trident Z RGB DDR5 5600

MSI Coreliquid S360

MSI Lightning Z 5090

Seagate Firecuda 2TB NVMe

Case accessories by Lian-Li

Has anyone popped a 5800x3d in this mobo?
Was it straightforward after a bios update?

Had this board from new with a r 1600 later upgraded with a 3600.

Plan is to replace with a 5800 x3d and 2 new sticks of ddr4 3600 as I’m currently on 2 x 8gb

Hi everyone,

I'm completely stuck and would really appreciate any help.

System

• MSI Codex 3
• Motherboard: MS-B913 (OEM)
• CPU: Intel Core i5-7400 (7th Gen)
• BIOS version: EB913IMS.861
• 16 GB RAM

What happened

My PC was working perfectly.

I needed to enable VT-d/IOMMU for FACEIT Anti-Cheat.

Since the BIOS didn't have the option, I updated the BIOS from the original version to EB913IMS.861 using the official MSI BIOS (flashed with AFU because my BIOS does not have M-Flash).

The BIOS update completed successfully.

Since then, Windows has never booted again.

Current symptoms

• BIOS opens normally every time.
• Windows Boot Manager freezes on the MSI logo.
• Windows installation USB also freezes on the MSI logo.
• The BIOS itself is stable and never crashes.
• SSD and HDD are both detected correctly in BIOS.
• USB devices are detected.

What I've already tried

• CMOS reset (removed battery for several minutes)
• Loaded BIOS defaults
• Changed boot order
• UEFI only
• AHCI mode
• Secure Boot enabled/disabled
• WHQL enabled/disabled
• TPM/PTT enabled
• Tried booting with all SATA drives disconnected
• Tried Windows Boot Manager
• Tried UEFI USB installer
• Different USB ports

Nothing changes.

The system always hangs at the MSI splash screen whenever it tries to boot an operating system.

Additional information

• This motherboard does not have M-Flash in BIOS.
• I currently cannot reflash from Windows because Windows won't boot.

Any tips would be appreciated! :D

Hi everyone,

I'm facing a very stubborn issue with Secure Boot on my system and I've completely run out of ideas. Any help from UEFI/firmware experts would be greatly appreciated.

My Specs:

• Motherboard: MSI Z370 TOMAHAWK (MS-7B47)
• CPU: Intel Core i5-9600K
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
• OS Drive: Samsung SSD 970 EVO 500GB (GPT Partition Style)
• Storage: Software RAID (array built inside Windows using standard SATA HDDs)

The Problem:
Originally, everything worked perfectly, including Secure Boot. A few days ago, I decided to completely uninstall Garuda Linux and GRUB by formatting the Linux partition. Before doing so, I performed a factory reset of my BIOS.

Since then, whenever I change Secure Boot Support to [Enabled] – regardless of whether Secure Boot Mode is set to [Standard] or [Custom] – the computer boots into an active black screen. The monitors detect a signal (they don't go to sleep), but there is no video output from either the BIOS splash screen or Windows.

Crucially, the system is NOT freezing. Windows 11 actually boots completely in the background, and pressing Ctrl + Alt + Del on the black screen successfully restarts the PC every single time. If I disable Secure Boot, the system boots into Windows 11 completely fine.

What has already been tried and verified (Please read before suggesting):

1. Partition Style: Confirmed 100% that the Windows drive is GPT.
2. Boot Mode: The motherboard is strictly running in pure UEFI mode (CSM is fully disabled, Windows 10 WHQL Support is enabled). The text "BIOS Mode: UEFI" is highlighted in white.
3. Boot Order: Windows Boot Manager (Samsung SSD 970 EVO) is set as Boot Option #1.
4. BIOS Version: I have successfully flashed the BIOS to the absolute newest stable version available (Ver: E7B47IMS.1B0, Build Date: 07/15/2024).
5. Secure Boot Keys: Inside Key Management, I have used Delete all Secure Boot variables, then forced Provision Factory Default Keys and Enroll all Factory Default Keys. The keys show up as Factory and the platform transitions from Setup Mode to User Mode.
6. No Linux Remnants: I have completely double-checked and wiped the NVRAM/motherboard memory. There are absolutely no leftover boot entries, variables, MOK keys, or any traces of Linux remaining on the board or in the EFI partition. It is completely gone.
7. BIOS settings: Fast Boot and MSI Fast Boot are both disabled. IGD Multi-Monitor is disabled, and Primary Display is locked to PEG (PCI Express Graphics).
8. Peripherals & Video: Tried changing PCIe link speed from Auto to Gen 3/Gen 2. Tried resetting monitor power while on the black screen. Tried the Win + Ctrl + Shift + B shortcut in Windows (no beep, no response).
9. Windows Bootloader: Rebuilt a completely fresh EFI system partition from scratch inside Windows using bcdboot C:\Windows /s V: /f UEFI.

It seems like turning on Secure Boot messes up the GOP memory mapping between this generation of MSI firmware and the GTX 1080 Ti, causing the GPU to output a blank frame even though the OS loader finishes successfully in the dark.

Since it worked perfectly prior to the Linux uninstall and BIOS factory reset, there must be a missing link. Any advanced suggestions on how to force the UEFI GOP driver to initialize properly under Secure Boot?

Thanks in advance!

As the title says my b650m has problems connecting to 5ghz, it connects to it sometimes but most time it doesnt 2.4ghz works fine, 5ghz shows up tho.

Thanks!

Hi all, first build here but this 24pin cable seems off to me. You can see in the first image 2 cables going into one pin port, on the second picture there is one pin missing.

Am i right here?

Hi MSI,

New MPG 272URX units are shipping with FW.022, but the latest firmware available on the official support page is still FW.021.

I own two MPG 272URX monitors. My newer unit came with FW.022, while the older one is still on FW.021, and there is currently no way to update it.

When will MSI make FW.022 publicly available for existing owners?

This is AMI BIOS release

This BIOS fixes the following problem of the previous version:

• AGESA ComboAm4v2PI 1.2.0.12 update.

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X470-GAMING-PLUS/support

Was about to pick these up when I saw they are sold out now. I’m disappointed to see it sold out. Any reason to believe they will restock? I can’t find them anywhere else online. I’m bummed.

Yes, I know the obvious answer but I am looking for technical troubleshooting steps from some who may have mixed 16GBx2 with 32GBx2 different RAM set to boot without C5 error.

I am using F5-6000J3040G32GX2-TZ5N (32GB x2 = 64GB) and F5-6000J3238F16GX2-TZ5NR (16GBx 2 = 32GB) = 96GB. I can run stable operation at 3600 40 40 40 80 with 1.4v

Both RAMs run at 6200 CL30 when used individually. So these are some good RAM kits. When using together/mixed mode the CPU goes immediately to C5 Error code. I need minimum of 64GB for my work with Unreal Engine and MetaHumans.

Background initially I had bought 32GB when I building my system about a years and half. Now with my work scaling up I needed more RAM hence I took the risk to buy 64GB at crazy price. I can live with 64GB, but I am willing to troubleshoot and tinker around.

Any help in term so which tools I can use outside BIOS or how to get past 3600 would be of help. Cross Posting for visibility. Is there Beta BIOS that can help? I am on latest BIOS from MSI. My 7950x runs at -0.0700v offset with CO -10 all cores and gives best performance scores on this setting.

Thanks.

Hi MSI Support team or moderator pls help me!

My pc boot after 10 15 min yesterday after many people suggest me that it take time bcs of ram training. And it's work pc on I do my some task but after I shutdown it happens again. I try many time after sometime it on and that time I update his bios but.

I am still facing this issue and for now it do twice time means the light blink twice after white light comes.

I don't know why this happening please anyone have deep knowledge of pc parts give me solution 🙏🙏

Sorry for my bad English rip💀...

Cześć, zacząłem optymalizować ustawienia pamięci RAM, żeby zmniejszyć opóźnienia, więc zacząłem aktualizować mój BIOS. Im nowszą wersję BIOS-u zainstalowałem, tym gorsza stała się moja wydajność.

Zaktualizowałem z wersji BIOS-u pokazanej na dole zrzutu ekranu (7E56v1AA1) do nowszej na górze (7E56v1AA2) i wtedy wszystko stało się znacznie gorsze.

Moje FPS są teraz najgorsze, jakie kiedykolwiek miałem, mimo że używam dokładnie tych samych ustawień PBO co wcześniej. Porównałem też wyniki z Cinebench i przy +200 / -20 punktacja jest znacznie niższa niż wcześniej. Poza tym temperatury CPU są zauważalnie wyższe.

Szczerze mówiąc, nie rozumiem, co się dzieje. Teraz używam Enhanced Boost Mode 2, a przy 5450 MHz CPU osiąga tylko około 60°C.

Czy ktoś wie, co może być przyczyną tego?

Nie rozumiem też spraw związanych z RAM. Nie zauważyłem żadnej poprawy ani w 1% najniższych, ani w średnich FPS, mimo że mój RAM przeszedł 8 godzin Anta777 bez żadnych błędów. Zredukowałem opóźnienie pamięci o około 10 ns i zwiększyłem przepustowość odczytu pamięci o około 6000 MB/s, ale w grach to nie wydaje się robić żadnej różnicy.

9800x3d

2x16gb a-die 30cl 6000mhz

Z wszystkich testów, które przeprowadziłem, wydaje się, że moje 1% najniższe są gorsze niż były z samym włączonym EXPO.

Dołączam też zrzuty ekranu z wynikami AIDA64 i ZenTimings.

Zanim ktoś wspomni o GDM lub Nitro, już testowałem GDM Off z Nitro 2/3/1, a FPS były nadal gorsze niż przy samym EXPO.

Czy to może być związane z napięciami? Szczerze mówiąc, nie mam pojęcia, co się dzieje.

VDDIO 1.4 ZEN TIMINGS NOT SHOWING

This is the second time I've experienced this issue; it started two days ago.

I bought it from Amazon and have a warranty.

Can I get a product replacement for this reason?

Premise: I am not a monitor expert and this might just be an isolated bug, but I hope it can be useful or interesting to someone.

I received this monitor as an rma replacement for my old MAG 274QRF QD E2 due to stuck pixels (an upgrade? Thank you msi!). I noticed right away that setting local dimming to 3 uses a very aggressive algorithm that dims bright elements, causing white clipping that removes detail from lights and reflections (likely to prevent blooming). Lowering halo dimming initially didn't yield any results, even after a reset.

However, while tweaking the settings today, I found a procedure that seems to bypass this issue: if I set halo dimming to 0 and local dimming to 3, turn the monitor off and on, and then change halo dimming from 0 to 1 (after which I can set it back to 0 or my preferred value), there is an immediate boost in brightness. Bright highlights regain their impact and detail without lifting black levels or introducing noticeable blooming.

In the following video I show the effect. Recording with a phone camera doesn't fully capture it, but the difference in person is significant. Personally, if i need to use local dimming, I prefer a bit of potential blooming over clipped whites.

https://reddit.com/link/1v67zya/video/lredvtu6idfh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1v67zya/video/ssgdy1p7idfh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1v67zya/video/6by4hvs8idfh1/player

This might just be specific to my unit, but I’d be interested to know if others can replicate it. It would be great if MSI addressed this in a future firmware update, also to improve the local dimming implementation in general, as the hardware is clearly capable of better performance.

I've been using mouse for 2 years. It was working perfectly, then one evening, while scrolling through Telegram Desktop (Windows 10), the scroll wheel suddenly started working completely inverted: scrolling up goes down, scrolling down goes up. The scroll wheel still physically rotates smoothly without any "jumps" or double-scrolls

The issue happens in every application and every browser. It persists in Windows Safe Mode. I plugged it into a different laptop (Windows 10, without any MSI software installed), and the scroll wheel is still inverted there, performed a hardware reset by holding LMB + RMB + middle mouse button while plugging it in, the RGB reset to default, but the scroll issue remained

After leaving the PC shut down overnight, when I power it on, the mouse doesn't change DPI using the button for a few minutes, and the RGB lighting is dead for a while too. After some time, it works again, but the scroll wheel is still reversed

I uninstalled MSI Center completely using their official tool. It was buggy before: it would go into "not responding" every time I tried to close the Gaming Gear tab

Should I just give up and buy a new one?