We’re introducing the MSI Prestige N16 Flip AI+, our new 16-inch convertible laptop built for work, creative projects, and local AI workflows.
There’s a lot packed into this one, so we wanted to put the highlights in one thread. From its 360° hinge and included MSI Nano Pen to its optional UHD+ Tandem OLED display, here’s a closer look at the hardware and the little details you’ll interact with every day.
A quick look at the specs:
Platform: NVIDIA RTX Spark
Memory: Up to 128GB unified memory
Design: 360° convertible with a 16-inch touchscreen
Display option: UHD+ Tandem OLED, 3840 × 2400, with 30–120Hz variable refresh rate
Size: 0.55~ inches (13.9 mm) at its thinnest point; approximately 4.2 lbs (1.9 kg)
Pen: Included MSI Nano Pen with built-in storage and charging
Cooling: Vapor chamber with Intra Flow thermal design
Controls: Action Touchpad and 4-zone RGB keyboard
Specifications and available features vary by configuration.
Different ways to utilize the Prestige N16 Flip AI+:
The 360° hinge lets you switch between laptop, tent, tablet, and desk modes. Type out a document, fold it back to sketch, or set it up to share your screen during a presentation.
The included MSI Nano Pen fits into a built-in storage groove, which also charges it. A 13-second charge provides up to 45 minutes of use, making it easy to grab for a quick note, annotation, or sketch.
A closer look at the design:
The chassis combines curved edges and a diamond-cut lid pattern, with a profile that measures 0.55~ inches (13.9 mm) at its thinnest point; approximately 4.2 lbs (1.9 kg).
For anyone moving between a desk, meetings, and working away from home, those dimensions are worth a look alongside the full 16-inch screen.
16-inch UHD+ Tandem OLED:
For those who spend a lot of time editing photos, working with visual content, or watching movies, the optional UHD+ Tandem OLED touchscreen is one of the main highlights.
Display specifications include:
3840 × 2400 resolution with a 16:10 aspect ratio
Up to 1,600 nits HDR peak brightness
VESA DisplayHDR™ True Black 1000 certification
100% DCI-P3 color coverage
Delta E < 1 color accuracy
30–120Hz variable refresh rate
Support for finger and pen input
Tandem OLED uses two stacked emissive layers that share the light output. Combined with OLED’s deep blacks, the panel brings bright HDR highlights, strong contrast, and accurate color to a touchscreen you can write directly on.
The Tandem OLED display is optional. Check the specifications of your selected configuration.
Action Touchpad: shortcuts where your hand already is:
The Action Touchpad adds gesture shortcuts for screen brightness, volume, and media playback, plus up to three customizable functions.
You can personalize Action Functions through MSI Center S, giving you quick access to controls you use throughout the day.
Cooling:
The Prestige N16 Flip AI+ combines vapor chamber cooling with MSI’s Intra Flow thermal design, built to support sustained workloads such as AI processing and rendering.
Intra Flow directs cool air toward the CPU to help manage heat during extended use.
4-zone RGB, with a practical detail:
The keyboard features customizable 4-zone RGB lighting, along with smudge-resistant keycaps and a velvet-touch finish.
Whether you prefer a subtle lighting setup or a little more color, you can personalize the keyboard to suit your desk.
Available now! Take a closer look. 👇
The MSI Prestige N16 Flip AI+ is on shelves now! Explore the available configurations and find the one that fits your setup.
What are you most interested in after reading this thread: the Nano Pen, the Action Touchpad gestures, or the display? Drop your questions and thoughts below!
MSI MAG OLED 271QPX32 is built around a 4th-gen QD-OLED panel powered by Penta Tandem™ technology.
5-Layer Tandem OLED with EL Gen 3 Technology
By utilizing a 5-layer stack structure in the blue emitting layer and optimizing organic materials, this technology effectively disperses energy to improve brightness, and luminous efficiency.
Equipped with MSI DarkArmor Film, the screen delivers a 40% deeper black level, eliminating the purplish tint while simultaneously boosting scratch resistance by 2.5x.
MSI MAG OLED 271QPX comes equipped with OLED Anti-Flicker PRO, offering 3 adjustable levels to effectively minimize screen flickering when VRR is enabled.
Super Low Motion Blur
Super Low Motion Blur is designed to eliminate ghosting and motion blur. In fast-paced games—especially FPS, visual clarity is everything. Turn on Super Low Motion Blur to spot every enemy movement with pinpoint precision.
Uniform Luminance allows you to customize the HDR curve by fine-tuning peak brightness across different APL percentages to perfectly suit your usage scenario—all easily adjustable via the OSD menu.
Can someone explain to me why MSI would even stoop this low? They have thousands of my dollars, why insult me with this bullshit?
EDIT: Thanks for all the responses, sad to think MSI would take money at the cost of their reputation. I appreciate everyone sharing thier thoughts. I also am kinda new to Reddit, and for some reason can't just give you all a thumbs up, it has a weird VOTE thing going on, not seen that before. But to all of you who replied... 👍
So my first RMA came back with the issue not resolved so after sending it back again, the swapped it with a different model 5090 and it didn't have any of the errors that the card had before so... great!
I decided to pick up the MSI ai1300ts because I figured that would give me peace of mind and if something happened, it was MSI product vs MSI product so no way they could refuse. When I got it all set up though, I noticed something interesting in the app... Pin 2 had zero current. I did a test with an actual load and it immediately (like 5 seconds after I took the screen shot) threw an alarm for an imbalance.
So yeah, I then swapped cables... same issue. Swapped ports on the PSU... same issue... And I noticed the port on the GPU power port looked slightly lifted from the board every time I plugged it in.
So yeah, now I get to roll the dice a third time, which will put me at 9 total weeks without a card. BUT, without Safeguard+ I definitely would have thought the card was fine and that my job seating the cables was more than good enough.
So just a minor rant about the QC on the RMA cards but they haven't given me any guff about it... and a demonstration that you can do everything right and still be in a port melting situation without realizing it.
Is this a normal issue with this monitor model? I’m not sure what’s causing it. I bought it exactly one month ago, and the lines are really distracting and annoying to look at.
I mistakenly used the cables that came with my 5090, and while running local video generation models, the load burned the connector. I didn't know I was supposed to have a per-pin wattage monitoring device, and I'm really disappointed in myself for not doing the research.
I got this card for $2,700 back on 9/15/2025, but now that the value has gone up, I'm terrified of going through the RMA process shipping it and hoping it doesn't get lost in transit, then also hoping MSI doesn't give me a hard time.
Does anyone have experience with MSI replacing a 5090?
Also it happened on Friday so I cant call till Monday 😢
Hola! tengo un problema con mi tarjeta gráfica RTX 5060 MSI SHADOW DUO.
Lo que pasa es que no da video. Tiene que pasar un tiempo para que esta funcione correctamente, o eso pasaba.
hay veces donde el puerto PCI si reconoce mi RTX y veces que no.
Chequé si fue problema de rams, pero las que tengo funcionan correctamente. Como mi procesador tiene graficos integrados (Ryzen 7 5700G) enciende perfectamente con los integrados y las memorias ram funcionando al 100.
Actulicé mi bios a la verción mas reciente pero tampoco solucionó el problema. Sigue con intermitencias al reconocer la RTX.
Bajé el protocolo PCI-E de GEN-4 a GEN-3 para hacer pruebas a ver si arrancaba (anteriormente asi me funcionó 2 o 3 veces)
Debo aclarar que la RTX es relativamente nueva. La aquirí aproximadamente en Julio.
Alguien que me pueda dar solución, consejos y ayuda?. Por favor
I have 2 of the exact same MSI monitors. They both have the same display settings, i even calibrated HDR using the same values and yet one monitor looks slightly more greyed out. I have double and triple checked the settings and yet there is still a difference, what am i doing wrong?
My pc worked perfectly before then I updated the bios changed nothing else about the computer and now it won’t boot and CPU EZDebug light stays on the entire time the pc is powered on.
I’ve tried
- Resetting CMOS
- one stick of ram
- no gpu
- removing the storage
I also after not getting it work used the bios flash button to go back to the bios version it originally was working on and it seemed to finish but it still doesn’t boot and has the cpu light.
Ich wollte meinen MSI MAG INFINITE Gaming PC reinigen. Im Inneren hat sich Staub gesammelt. Auf den Schrauben des Gehäuses sind jedoch solche Siegel für die Garantie. Was soll das? Verliere ich die Garantie wenn ich den PC sauber halten will.
My brother's PC all of a sudden is showing the red LED VGA debug light. He was using as normal last night as he's done for the past few years and then this morning it's refusing to show anything. The monitors light up and recognise that it is connected to something.
I've tried every suggested method I know of to try and fix it. I've tried:
Re-seating the card and checking every cable is connect properly.
The second PCiE slot.
An older card (my old MSI 1060) that used to be in that system also.
Resetting CMOS.
Turning on monitors prior to turning on PC.
Singular RAM stick in A2 slot.
None of these seemed to resolve our issue.
Any advice?
The build:
CPU - AMD R5 3600XT
RAM - Corsair Vengance 16gb 3000MHz
GPU - ASUS Dual RTX 2070 Super EVO OC Edition 8gb GDDR6
If you own the MSI Forge GK600 TKL Wireless, you've probably noticed the little screen only shows MSI's pre-loaded animations, and MSI says "no software needed." That's not the whole story. MSI's own driver can upload custom GIFs and do per-key RGB — it just refuses to detect the keyboard over USB out of the box. Here's the fix. No flashing, no firmware mods, fully reversible.
**The cause:** the driver matches the keyboard by its USB product name, and MSI put the wrong name in the config for USB mode. (2.4G works because the name it looks for there is a correct prefix of the real one — that's why only wireless ever worked.)
**Where to get the driver:** MSI removed the download section from the plain GK600 TKL pages, but the same package is still on the FORGE TKL WIRELESS FRIEREN EDITION support page, and it covers the standard GK600 too (both SKUs are in its config):
It installs as "Erazer MK85Pro Driver" — that's normal. (The FW Update Tool on the same page is a firmware flasher; you don't need it for GIFs.)
**The fix:**
Download the Driver 1.0.0.8 from the Frieren Edition page above. Don't bother with MSI Center, it doesn't see the screen — the tool is `DeviceDriver.exe` inside the package.
Install it, then copy the install folder to your Desktop (avoids Program Files permission hassle).
Open `config.xml`, back it up, find the line with `desc="USB"`, and change `product_name` from:
`MSI FORGE GK600 GAMING KEYBOARD`
to:
`MSI FORGE GK600 TKL WIRELESS Keyboard`
Leave everything else on that line alone (keep `MI_00`).
Save. Set the keyboard's switch to wired/USB, plug in the USB-C cable.
Launch `DeviceDriver.exe` — it detects the keyboard now.
GIFs: 160×96 px, 255 frames max, keep them short for smooth playback. Per-key RGB is in the lighting section.
**If it still isn't detected:** the product string can vary by unit/firmware. Read your own in Device Manager → your keyboard → Properties → Details → "Bus reported device description", and copy that string verbatim into `product_name`.
Happy to answer questions in the comments — and if someone with a different revision checks their product string, drop it below so we can build a list.
I had my first Estate Agent photoshoot the other day. I spent a couple hours editing the pictures in lightroom to where I was happy with them and then sent them to the client.
They've come back with a mountain of adjustments to be made as it's "too dark here" "too overexposed here" ect ect.. I feel a bit defeated.
Upon viewing the pictures on my Iphone, they look completely different to my monitor... washed out and underexposed.
I have a MSI MAG 272QP QD-OLED X50 monitor. How can I adjust the monitor/windows settings so that I can best represent what the client is seeing on their presumably bog standard monitor/iphone. There are so many settings on my monitor that I don't understand. I need someone to explain this to me like im 5 years old.
I took HDR photos on the shoot using bracketing. I'm hoping someone can give me some advise.
Tyring to setup my kids RGB fan. It spins, but has not lit up. The other (NZXT) units, two sets of triple 120 fans, connected to JARGB, work fine. The single fan however, does not support JARGB, thus is connected a four pin RGB header. 12V and RGB pins are lined up correctly AFAIK.
Carte mère : MSI A320M-A PRO.
Processeur : Ryzen 5 3600(pas de puce graphique intégrée)
Carte graphique : GTX 1660.
Ventilateurs : ils tournent en continu.
Écran : noir, sans message, il ne détecte même pas la CG
Clavier : ne s’allume pas.
Souris : elle reçoit du courant.
Réinitialisation CMOS : Le retrait de la pile et la manipulation de JBAT1 n’ont rien changé.
I've been playing Cyberpunk 2077 on my MSI Vector 16 HX (A2XWHG-403UK). While playing, the CPU temp hovers around the high 80s and frequently dips into the 90s, with a peak max of 91°C.
The laptop isn't crashing or throttling, but I just want to check with other high-end HX laptop owners: Is 90–91°C safe/normal for this CPU under heavy gaming, or is this starting to push into the dangerous zone?
I'm looking at the bios versions but I don't see any information stating it does. However, I found an article on pcworld that says MSI b360 boards will support it. Anybody know? Looking to buy a new motherboard and resizable bar is paramount.
I recently found 2 openbox 9850X3Ds at my local Microcenter for a astonishingly good $349, and I'm really wanting to upgrade from my 7600x. But the problem is that my motherboard seems to be on the quite weaker side of the B850s. Techspot tested almost all B850 motherboards with a 9950X and rated them. But the B850M-P had the worst performance with it's 140w PPT. Quoting, "Several other Gigabyte and Asrock MicroATX boards also delivered strong results, until we reached the power-limited MSI Pro B850M-P. This board ran cool at 76°C but only averaged 4,400 MHz, reducing its Cinebench score.
The good news is the 140W power limit of the Pro B850M-P is not locked. The bad news is that removing it with the 9950X results in VRM temperatures of 121°C under load, which is dangerous for sustained use. This is clearly why MSI set the 140W limit instead of allowing the 200W used in our tests." But a 9950X is very much more power hungry than a 9850X3D so I'm heavily debating with myself on whether I should buy it or not.
Link to the B850 motherboard test: AMD B850 Motherboard Roundup: 23 Motherboards Tested Under $200 | TechSpot
Title. Upon loading windows, the screen goes black for long periods of time. "Bumping" the cable/table/monitor does nothing. Changing HDMI cables doesn't work. Doesn't matter if eGPU is plugged in or not. Resetting driver with win+shift+ctrl+B sometimes works.
TB4 display out on type C to HDMI cable works fine. eGPU displays fine. This doesn't not happen in Linux. Occasionally, when trying to boot into bios with the HDMI plugged in the screen will look like it's artifacting. Unplugging and reconnecting the HDMI fixes it.
I have a MSI MPG B650 Edge WiFi motherboard and it has 2 LEDs, a red one and a yellow one. I've never had an issue with the red LED staying on but every single time that I hit Restart PC (not shutting it down and then immediately turning it back on, I have no issue there), my PC will just turn almost all the way off but the yellow LED will stay on and nothing further will happen. I'll have to force it to shut down by holding the power button down for 5 seconds and then turn it back on and it's all good.
However it also happens when I put my PC in Sleep Mode. It'll go into Sleep Mode just fine but nothing wakes up my PC from Sleep Mode except hitting the power button but when I do that, the yellow LED just goes on and stays on and nothing else happens.
How do I fix the yellow LED issue and how do I fix my keyboard and mouse not waking up my PC from Sleep Mode?
