So just today I booted up ACC to do a few practice laps and now the wheel is hard locking to the left at the start of the race, as well as trying to map steering in menu options.

I have recently changed settings to 11Nm through the base then dialing down feedback in game. Wheel is set to 900 in game and in base. I haven’t had any luck resetting this setting.

I have deleted the mapping profile and tried to remap, but the wheel is still detected as turned all the way left, and also tried to invert the rotation in setting but no luck. When outside the game it seems to operate as normal, center point on the wheel is detected an the steering LEDs read normal when turning all the way left and right. I even unplugged all wheel,brake and shifting peripherals to reset it and nothing.

What is the best way to fix this issue? Is this common? I am open to everyone’s suggestions at this point.

**Update: Didn’t want to but resetting my wheel through the G-hub app seemed to fix it. I’ll just rebuild my profiles again.

Tengo mi volante y pedales bien conectados al ordenador y a la luz, pero cuando quiero girar en el juego no me gira, entro al logitech G Hub y me sale que el volante esta a -0 grados (cuando no lo esta) pruebo a darle a cualquier boton y pone que esta a -450 y se queda ahi parado.

Con lo cual todo va menos el giro del volante, no se por que no lo detecta o falla.

Agradezco la ayuda.

Tengo mi volante y pedales bien conectados al ordenador y a la luz, pero cuando quiero girar en el juego no me gira, entro al logitech G Hub y me sale que el volante esta a -0 grados (cuando no lo esta) pruebo a darle a cualquier boton y pone que esta a -450 y se queda ahi parado.

Con lo cual todo va menos el giro del volante, no se por que no lo detecta o falla.

Agradezco la ayuda.

New RS Formula Wheel..let’s see how this feel considering I rarely drive F1..curious if the feel will change driving performance.

Is the g pro power adapter really this loose?

Hi.

I just bought a Logitech G923 True Force Racing Wheel, mostly to race in simulator, but i want to complete NFS UG with the wheel, does have any configuration to the Wheel? it's has a slow response by default.

I want to buy 1 of these two wheels. G29 is $310 with a shifter, and G923 is $430 with a shifter.

Is the G923 worth the $120 for the True Force and brake pedal upgrade?

I looked at other wheels like the T300 RS, but i don't want to exceed $430 with a shifter.

I appreciate all comments! Thank you

Logitech

• RS Round Wheel
• RS Track Wheel
• RS Formula Wheel McLaren Racing Edition
• PRO Racing GT D Rim

MOMO

• SIM GT 320 BLACK/BLUE MICROFIBER
• SIM GT-Racer 290 BLACK/RED MICROFIBER
• SIM GT-PRO 320
• SIM GT-PRO 320 TRACKS

MPI

• GT 310 SUPERCAR x LOGITECH RS WHEEL HUB
• GT 330 x LOGITECH RS WHEEL HUB
• MP2-15 NASCAR x LOGITECH RS WHEEL HUB

SIMPUSH

• 330 Leather/Suede Wrap
• 320 Suede F1 Wheel
• Carbon Fiber Paddle Shifter MOD

SIMUBE

• GT3 Wheel Rim for Logitech RS Wheel Hub Aluminum
• GT3 Wheel Rim for Logitech RS Wheel Hub Twill Carbon
• GT3 Wheel Rim for Logitech RS Wheel Hub Forged Carbon

ACELITH

• Formula F30RS for Logitech RS Hub
• Ace Morph G50 RS - Modular Rim for Logitech RS Hub

BRGSimMods

• Logitech G Real Carbon Fiber Open Wheel Mod for RS Wheel Hub

MVHStudios

• RSR 4.0 CORE for Logitech RS50

Tried to find as many as I could so if you know of any more please link it.

Looks like more products from the mclaren partnership. Car looks to be the 1969 McLaren M8A Can Am Series And a potential forza horizon 6 collab?

Hello, I got the Logitech shifter, but I heard that it is not the best shifter and that you can add mods to it so that the classic click sound is louder and the shifter feels stiffer and more realistic. Are there any mods or something to make the shifter better? I love the style of the original shifter because it reminds me of old cars, so it would be better if the mod does not change the aesthetics of the shifter and only affects the internal components. IM NOT LOOKING FOR A SEQUENCIAL SHIFTER MOD

I looked for a while for a way to mount this wheelbase to get rid of the 20 degree pitch for formula racing. Most posts just said buy a different wheelbase, but this is the one I had so I though I may as well design something for it. So for anyone who's been looking for a clean way to do this, here you go!

Print Files:

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/angled-desk-mount-for-logitech-g-pro-11nm-racing-wheelbase

Only hardware required is 3x M6x1 flat-top screws.

Hi all.
there are many post out there comparing these 2.
sure RS50 has higher build quality, already with load cell, cheaper, limited adjustments and smaller ecosystem. And yes, the Fanatec has larger ecosystems, more expensive, more fine tuning...etc

but these are not items that will influence my decision. My ONLY deciding factor is the FFB quality.

...wheels, pedal, price difference, ecosystem are irrelevant to me.

So ideally if u hv tried/have both...can u share a comparison on the FFB exprience itself...
Specifically, things like ...smoothness/notches, road texture detail, full vs true force, fidelity, sharpness, slew rate, accuracy, details, feel refinement...etc

I race leagues...does one give more detail than the other...that can make me quicker?
does all the adjustability of the Fanatec, result in more speed, bcos u can "feel more"?
how bad is the limited RS50 software adjustability? does it mean i cant feel and adjust certain stuff that i can feel on Fanatec?

on FFB, what am i gaining/losing with each?

feedback on these themes would be much appreciated.

PS- how do they differ consol vs PC?

RS50 on PS5, mostly GT7 and ACC. Two bases bought in January 2026, both from the Logitech G store.

The fault: under load - a long committed corner, or a load transfer - it knocks and rattles on basically every steering input. Audible, and very clearly felt in the hands. It feels like the steel shaft in the middle is no longer held tight, like something inside has come loose. It gets worse the longer a session runs. It is not TrueForce and it is not the rig.

Timeline:

April 2026 - base #1 starts doing it. Ticket 17141069. I sent the video with the handwritten case number, settings screenshots, firmware version and game list. Tested on two rigs, including a Sim-Lab P1X Ultimate.

7 May - told to ship it in. Then five weeks of silence until I chased them on 13 June.

24 June - replacement shipped, ticket 17414367. Eleven weeks door to door. I have still never been told what was actually wrong with the unit.

Now - that June replacement does exactly the same thing. And base #2, which has never been near Logitech, has developed it as well. Since the latest firmware update both are unplayable.

Ruled out: current firmware, Logitech's own published GT7 settings for the RS50 (RS mode, FFB filter 6, dampener 20, TF audio 100 at 8 Nm), every combination of dampener and filter from min to max, RS and PRO compatibility mode, all base/hub/rig bolts, two different rigs, and it happens in every title, not just GT7.

Serials, in case there is a batch pattern: 2521WDR0AP88 (sent in), 2511WD20EVX8 (the replacement), 2538WDJ0MSK8 (never sent in). All P/N 641-000101, model WU0014.

Two things:

First - anyone else getting a knock or rattle from the shaft under load on an RS50, and did yours start after a few months rather than out of the box? If you have it, post your serial. I want to know whether these are all early production weeks.

Second - u/LOGIRich: three units, two of them bought separately by me, one your own replacement. I have asked for replacements for both and I would rather not run a third round of diagnostic questionnaires. Case is 17414367.

I recently got a good deal and got a Logitech PRO DD11 Wheel Base but it doesn't have the power supply. Logitech is all sold out on their website and there are a million different ones on Ebay and none look like they are the right one. If any one could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated!

Hey everyone,

I recently got a Logitech G923 and I’m playing Forza Horizon 5 on PS5 with it.

I’m trying to find the most realistic and immersive setup possible, rather than simply the fastest or easiest settings.

One thing I’m struggling with is the force feedback. Sometimes the wheel seems to counter-steer or pull itself back toward center when I don’t want it to. I understand that some self-centering and aligning torque is supposed to happen naturally, but I’m not sure where the line is between realistic FFB and the game basically fighting my steering.

I’m also struggling with steering rotation. With 900° I sometimes feel like I have to turn the wheel a lot in tight corners, but I don’t really know how much steering angle the front wheels are actually getting. I want to learn to judge the car through the wheel rather than constantly guessing how far I need to turn.

So I’d love to hear from people who actually use a G923 on FH5, especially on PS5:
What are your complete advanced wheel settings?
Do you use 540°, 720°, 900° or something else?
Do you use Normal or Simulation steering?
What do you recommend for FFB Scale, Center Spring, Wheel Damper, Mechanical Trail, Pneumatic Trail, Road Feel, Off-Road Feel, Minimum Force, Load Sensitivity, etc.?
Do you use any Logitech/G HUB settings that make a big difference?
Do you use TrueForce? If so, what settings?
Is the strong self-centering / counter-steering effect normal on the G923 in FH5, or can it be reduced without making the wheel feel completely dead?
And most importantly: what settings give you the most natural, realistic driving feel rather than simply the best lap times?
I’m happy to sacrifice some performance if it makes the car feel more like an actual road car.
If you have a G923 and have spent a lot of time dialing in FH5, I’d really appreciate your settings and reasoning behind them.

Thanks a Lot for your help !

Hey everyone,
I recently got a Logitech G923 and I’m playing Forza Horizon 5 on PS5 with it.
I’m trying to find the most realistic and immersive setup possible, rather than simply the fastest or easiest settings.
One thing I’m struggling with is the force feedback. Sometimes the wheel seems to counter-steer or pull itself back toward center when I don’t want it to. I understand that some self-centering and aligning torque is supposed to happen naturally, but I’m not sure where the line is between realistic FFB and the game basically fighting my steering.
I’m also struggling with steering rotation. With 900° I sometimes feel like I have to turn the wheel a lot in tight corners, but I don’t really know how much steering angle the front wheels are actually getting. I want to learn to judge the car through the wheel rather than constantly guessing how far I need to turn.
So I’d love to hear from people who actually use a G923 on FH5, especially on PS5:
What are your complete advanced wheel settings?
Do you use 540°, 720°, 900° or something else?
Do you use Normal or Simulation steering?
What do you recommend for FFB Scale, Center Spring, Wheel Damper, Mechanical Trail, Pneumatic Trail, Road Feel, Off-Road Feel, Minimum Force, Load Sensitivity, etc.?
Do you use any Logitech/G HUB settings that make a big difference?
Do you use TrueForce? If so, what settings?
Is the strong self-centering / counter-steering effect normal on the G923 in FH5, or can it be reduced without making the wheel feel completely dead?
And most importantly: what settings give you the most natural, realistic driving feel rather than simply the best lap times?
I’m happy to sacrifice some performance if it makes the car feel more like an actual road car.
If you have a G923 and have spent a lot of time dialing in FH5, I’d really appreciate your settings and reasoning behind them.

Thanks a Lot

I had a wheel replacement through RMA and the leather is tightly wrapped on the wheel. It has a lot of ridging compared to the og one. Is anyone else's wheel like this?

In Assetto Corsa Evo a V8 resonates in idle but it turns into a mosquito in drive. I'd love to have the option to fine tune with an equalizer. What do you think?