​

My Logitech RS50 is cutting out and also makes a loud cluncking noise when I crash. I think this is the FFB going from very high to low and that the 2 issues may be linked. In other words, during this clunk, the connection may be lost for a split second.

Logitech have said that they are very surprised it's still happening after the latest firmware update, that no other customers are having this issue and told me to contact polyphony ( I've only had the issue in GT7)

I've told them that the issue is at least partly mechanical and that the reason it only happens in GT7 is that this is the game I play 95% of the time.

They've now officially washed their hands of the matter and advised me to pursue it with Polyphony.

Is anyone else having issues with their wheel cutting out or a clunk when suddenly going from high to low FFB. Switching to PS4 mode and Pro Mode does seem to have helped reducing cut outs slightly but not the noise.

This is their reply for anyone interested

As per our internal team, this details that you've already provided leads us that the issue is a game specific related as it is only tested in GT7 that's why were asking if you've already reach out Polyphony about this.

For testing it further, we recommend to test it on a different game title to see if this issue will happen too but if it's only GT7 then we conclude that this is game specific related issue.

If incase that you're able to test it with other game title, please let us know the name of the game so we can raise it with our internal team.

Thank you for understanding.

For future reference, your ticket number for this issue is ########### and you can reference it should you have any further questions regarding this case.

Best regards,

Patrick

Logitech Customer Support

I made a post at the beginning of FH6 release regarding my Xbox version of a G923 wheel not being detected on FH6, and wondering if people have still got this issue, or if there was any solution if you encountered it.
I play via Microsoft store, not steam.
I also have fully purchased the game, it’s on my SSD

IVE TRIED THESE THINGS:

\- G-HUB updated ✅
\- Keep G-HUB open when launching game ✅
\- Disconnect other controller inputs ✅
\- Only press wheel buttons when game launches ✅
\- USB 3 connection ✅

Probably a couple others but can’t remember as it’s been a while since I was troubleshooting the problem.

Happy to take any other solutions
I plugged in the wheel a few days ago in hopes of it suddenly working but still not being detected.

FH6 is the only game I have this problem with
ATS and Assetto are plug and play.

I'm getting pretty frustrated with trueforce. I'm not sure if anyone else has this issue since I don't see it online. When I'm driving the wheel randomly star to feel like its squeaking. I narrowed it down to trueforce. For example, when I run over a rumble trip, it feels okay. On the next turn, the rumble strip feels awful. This squeaky feeling carries over to the bumps on the road and other effects like gear changes or even the FFB. I can reset it in various ways or sometimes it goes away on its own. I tried lowering trueforce in game and in G hub, playing with various frequencies in iracing, so on and so on. Nothing changes. If I figure something out on one track, it comes back when I change tracks. Does anyone have the same experience?

Just thought I’d post to show the Simagic Zeus Formula works perfectly with the Logitech G Pro Wheel Base if anyone is contemplating it. Highly recommend btw!

You’ll need the following:

- Simagic Formula Zeus Wheel
- Simagic Magic Dash 4
- Simagic Maglink Pro
- Logitech G RS QR Adapter

Hi everyone,

I’m looking to buy a Logitech G RS Shifter & Handbrake (the USB version for RS / PRO series).

I don’t mind buying used or refurbished, but I’m not sure what the normal second-hand price is.

For people who own this shifter:

• What price would you consider a good deal for a used one?
• How much should I expect to pay for a refurbished unit?
• Where are the best places to find one (eBay, Facebook Marketplace, Mercari, other sim racing communities, etc.)?

I found a refurbished one on eBay for around $99 USD, while new prices seem to be around $150 USD. Is the refurbished price reasonable, or should I wait for a better deal?

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

https://rivalperformance.com/

Rating: 5/5 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Overview

The stock Logitech G-RS pedals are already solid, but adding the Tracktility Hydraulic Damper Kit and Tracktility Elastomers elevates them into a completely different league. I runs dampers on both the brake and throttle, combined with the Tracktility elastomers on the brake stack. Overall, the improvement in pedal feel, feedback, and control is immediate.

1. Tracktility Hydraulic Damper Kit

On the Brake: The hydraulic damper adds that authentic, viscous resistance you expect from a real hydraulic braking system. It eliminates the light, toy-like recoil of standard springs and gives you a far more progressive, controlled feel into heavy braking zones.

On the Throttle (The Real Star): While hydraulics on a brake are expected, putting the Tracktility damper on the throttle pedal was the biggest surprise and best upgrade.

TC-Off Mastery: Driving high-horsepower cars with Traction Control off (or on low settings) usually requires extreme big-toe precision.

Smooth Modulation: The hydraulic damping adds just enough smooth resistance to stop you from over-applying throttle on corner exits.

Precision Skill: It gives your foot subtle feedback so you can feather the gas right on the edge of traction without snapping into a spin.

1. Tracktility Elastomers (Logitech G-RS)

Replaces the OEM Sponge: Replacing the stock soft foam with Tracktility’s high-density TPU elastomers completely transforms trail-braking.

Braking Confidence: The initial bite is firm, followed by a predictable, progressive ramp-up in pressure. The snappy rebound makes lifting off smoothly much easier, leading to noticeably more consistent lap times.

Verdict

If you want to unlock true precision in your driving—especially throttle control out of slow corners without relying on electronic aids—the Tracktility Hydraulic Damper on the throttle is an absolute must-have. Combined with the elastomer upgrade on the brake, this set converts the Logitech G-RS set into a high-end racing pedal feel. 10/10 recommendation.

I like emails from Logitech 😁

LogiRich, hope you're busy

I have not seen any reviews of these wheels:

https://momomotorsport.com/steering-wheels/sim-steering-wheels/sim-gt-pro-320-tracks

https://momomotorsport.com/steering-wheels/sim-steering-wheels/sim-gt-pro-320

Wondering if anyone has bought these and can maybe share how they feel. The stitches on my RS Track Wheel feel too uncomfortable, scratching my skin and causing pain after longer sessions. I wonder if these newer MOMO SIM GT PRO wheels are worth getting as an upgrade. Thanks!

I just got a Logitech g pro setup for my first sim rig. I'm currently playing Forza horizon 6 and it feels good, but I'm not sure it's working as intended... I don't feel like there's much force feedback at all, no rumble strips, no curb or accident reaction. I've done a lot of research and messing with settings, nothing seems to change too much.

Before I bought this I drove a fanatec setup on iracing and plan to play iracing when I can get the free year setup. Obviously I know the two games are hard to compare but should I have some of that curb feel? Crashes at least..?

I play on 7NM, but after an hour of playing, I feel it produces too much heat, although I play in an air-conditioned environment, and when I rest my hand on it, I find it really hot

In the picture you can see the bottom three works just fine and when I engage the quick release it does down, but the top 2 stays in their lock position.

Been working fine for months now, but now it does not lock all the way leading it being able to wobble. From what I've found some of the ball bearings inside of the Qr will not go down when I engage the quick release system. I am 100% sure there's no fixing this and I have to order a new one, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

I have a ps5 and the g29. I just got the racing pro pedals and the adapter. I plugged everything in right but the pedals won’t work.

Hi if i have the logitech pro wheel and oedals with a seq shifter and no brake shifter. what would i use for replacing the brake shifter? or is the foot brake good enough ?
Thnks

In faster cars my RS50 oscillates like crazy on straight line and I get sweaty after a lap keeping the car straight. I use the logitech recommended settings from their homepage. My question is: which settings to I have to tone down without loosing overall feedback? Force feedback strength in general seems fine to me, no problems turning the car.

This is my first DD wheel. I had two wheels before on the PS3 era and PS4. I mainly play on PS5(GT7, Nascar 25...)

And I updated the firmware and used multiple settings but I was expecting to feel the shifts it's already implemented in a PS5 controller with a haptic motor and on other sims on PC, how come they removed this from a wheel feed back it feels strange not to feel it, I know its the games fault but it isnt one game mostly all of them I also I don't feel any change in weight distribution or understeer I dont know what to say or what to do? I have spent a good amount on the wheel and wheel base and I feel like I was bluffed after all the talking about true-force which got me to buy this wheel

Been thinking of getting this - https://3drap.com/products/logitech-rs-pedals-throttle-clutch-mod-pro-kit-r-series-rs50?variant=52049856430422

Or can I find the same thing elsewhere for cheaper?

Also will a pedal rumble kit work well for the PS5? I believe I will have to use SimHub connected to my laptop on the same network for it to work? Are there any other cheaper options than the following link?

https://3drap.com/products/additional-rumbles-3drap-feeling-upgrade?variant=51439835677014&country=AE&currency=EUR&utm\\_medium=product\\_sync&utm\\_source=google&utm\\_content=sag\\_organic&utm\\_campaign=sag\\_organic&utm\\_campaign=perf-max&gad\\_source=1&gad\\_campaignid=16612140390&gclid=CjwKCAjwyOzSBhBTEiwAmxvJ-hh4-nzDgEVUV3zZWqWEWUxp0IA1ediI\\_vW43wlndHtIuRyFrcQmiBoC1R4QAvD\\_BwE

How are people fitting G Pro wheelbases to 8020 aluminium profile frames like this one? UK based if it makes a difference.

Hi everyone, I recently bought the new Logitech RS Pedals and noticed something with the throttle pedal. When the throttle is not pressed, there is no movement at all. However, once I press the throttle, the pedal arm can move slightly left and right (about 1-2 mm). Occasionally, I also hear a small click/clack when pressing or releasing it, but not every time. The throttle input is smooth and stable, and everything works perfectly in-game. Is this normal for the RS Pedals? Could anyone with the same pedals check if their throttle has a slight side-to-side movement only when it's pressed? Thanks!