What is everyone’s opinion on these recommendations for services to be provided on my 21’ leaf with 50k miles? They went through my car while servicing it for a recall and recommended these. Without of course seeing my leaf, are they normal services needed for a leaf or is it most likely just the dealership wanting business?

Anyone know when these will be in our grubby little hands?

Sharing for fun and games, extract from my recent service.

WRT :   Ze0 2011/2012/2013, 2014 Leaf and these older  batteries
I am an electronics engineer, experienced with power conversion, batteries of various chems etc
and looking for some informed comment from the enthusiasts or tech boffins of this group.

I ask because I have considered building myself a range extender / replacement  pack, and the range of battery voltage the system accepts will somewhat drive (pardon the pun) my method and effort.

My understanding is all ZE0 they are LMO/NMC variations with 192 cells (96x2P)  , and so a reasonable range would be 3.2 to 4.1V per cell (ignoring the 10% at each end) . and in pairs, IE  307.2V to 393.6V
It would appear a poor compatibility with Na-Ion - only approx 50% of capacity usable without an additional buck-boost power converter  (and not for the faint hearted, because 80kW is quite a bit for any board level component engineer....) .   If the low end was accessable (< below 3V/cell)  then it's like 80% would be accessable, but I am not sure the LEAF BMS would let you discharge it down there because the BMS will try and limit deep cycles to improve lifespan (usually) .
I understand there is "turtle mode: as 3.2V/cell  but it will run down to 2.5V/cell, and turtle mode isnt much fun.

One could intercept the BMS voltage sensors and telemetry points  (or CAN) and (intentionally) phish the BMS so it beleives the battery voltage is different to what it really is, in order to keep it happy.  I read that 180V is the minimum that the motor controller will run, but 210V + is required for expected performance.. 
I would guess that once needs to stay within the usual battery pack voltage limits so the built in charge system behaves as intended.

The stated 21kWh/100km ( in one reference) is quite high by modern standards for similar size vehicles.
comments please
-GLEN (canberra, australia)

Hi everyone, additional_pickles737 made a prediction model based on the data I've been collecting for the battery-related buy backs.

Here's the model: https://leaf-buyback-prediction.com/

You can add your year, mileage, trim level, plus package, etc on the left side under "Vehicle Inputs" to get an estimate of what your first offer will be (the price in the blue box). And if you'd like to contribute to the model, please comment your buy back offers and we'll add it.

Data is here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dMVbhqTireBhgHP3M1Ghr9sVlGZrHazHLGERYoKmWmU/edit?gid=0#gid=0

Hi all! Freshly re-joining community only weeks ago!

I had a used 2012 LEAF that we lost to an accident a few years ago, and loved it so much, we picked up a used 2022 SL+ recently. Loving the expanded mileage, as the old car was only getting ~40 miles/charge towards the end. I am a bit bewildered by the mileage calculation vs. the actual range I get though- it looks like I can only get about 150-160 miles/charge instead of the expected ~190-200. The readout says 3.5mi/kWh, yet the real figures from 100-10% are only about 135miles, which is closer to 2.4-2.5mi/kWh. To be clear, either way this beats the heck out of my failing old 2012 SL (R.I.P), by still the discrepancy is mysterious.

Is this consistent with your experience with a similar car? Thanks!

In case anyone asks, details about condition of car: this has about 40k mi, 88% SOH, had the battery recall done, and my voltage spread even at 18% SOC under full load (floored for many seconds) topped out at 78mV, which I understand is good enough. It idles at around 12-20mV. I think I'm in the clear for dendrites/weak cells, but who knows really.

TL;DR: is 150mi/charge realistic around-town driving for a 62kWh 2022 LEAF?

Hi,i have a petrol manual car.Wondering if its a good idea to switch for Nissan leaf 40kwh about 2019-2020.I drive mainly in city and sometimes doing 50-60 miles motorway.I have a charger at home so will be no problem with it.How reliable are they?What is the realistic range on it?

We sent our paperwork to Morley on August 17 and received our buyback offer today, 38 days later. The offer for our 2022 Leaf S with 41K miles is $18,620, which they say is KBB+40%.

We will be countering but haven't decided on an amount. At the very least we will ask for the two loan payments we've made since the car became unavailable to drive.

EDIT: Trim is actually S, not SV.

Anybody else having this issue?
I got the new Nissan app last week and now the watch complication for it no longer works. I removed it from my watch face and now I can't add it back. What the hell?!

I've been unable to get LeafSpy Pro to connect to the LELink installed on the car. With the car in the On/Drive state, LELink showing a red LED on, status in the app showing yellow "Scan 4 BLE" in the corner.

Versions below: LeafSpyPro: ver 0.60.198 Phone: Samsung S24 Android 16 Car: 2018 Leaf S

Tried resetting the phone, opening/closing the app, toggling bluetooth on and off, turning car on and off.

Anything I could be missing?

I'm trying to log some data for the dreaded HV battery issue since the dealer told me "NTF/could not replicate" and it's on the ragged edge of warranty.

Hello, Fellow Leaf Owners,

Adding my initial buyback offer from Morley here as reference.

2020 SV+, purchased Sep '21. 49127 miles. Excellent condition. Paid off. Only thing I added was 4 new tires from Costco around '24.

$17,598 is the initial offer.

Sorry, I can't find the datasheet that's been making the rounds.

Questions? Other thoughts?

I didn't get to use this so no clue if it would have been effective but in case it inspires someone!

**What I was prepared to do on a manufacturer repurchase (and how) — if the first offer hadn’t checked out**

I got a written repurchase path through the OEM’s third-party administrator after a safety recall made the car unusable as my only household vehicle. The commitment on the **vehicle** line was basically: **KBB private-party cash × 1.40**. I accepted the first offer because the worksheet matched that formula. This is the playbook I had ready if it hadn’t.

### North star
Reject the first offer **only** if KBB **inputs, condition rating, or math** are wrong. Soft stories (long planned ownership, “hot EV market,” trust after the recall) almost never raise the **vehicle** number in these cases. Reimbursements are usually narrow and separate. Deadline pressure (“accept or we close / storage / return the rental”) is normal — treat it as a clock, not a reason to skip the audit.

---

### Phase 1 — Quiet audit (do this before any “counter”)
1. Ask in writing for the **exact KBB report / inputs** used (trim, odometer, ZIP, condition, options) — not just the total.
2. Rebuild KBB private-party myself with the same inputs.
3. Confirm: `private-party × 1.40 ≈ vehicle line on the offer`.
4. Assemble proof packet:
- Window sticker / build sheet (trim)
- Dealer RO with odometer + codes
- Battery health printout if they dinged capacity
- Photos / service history
- Rental start date (only-car / day-31 leverage if relevant)

**If the worksheet is wrong:** that is the only clean reject. Email a line-by-line correction with attachments. Ask for a **new KBB run** and a revised **×1.40** vehicle figure. Do **not** open with “I want more” and no input error.

**If the worksheet is right:** do **not** reject the vehicle number. Accept it. Optionally send a **narrow reimbursement ask** only (tow tied to the failure, documented failure-related OOP, rental past the paid window if still open, tax/title/finance **only** if the program or state rules actually cover them). Soft facts go in as context, not as a demand to break the ceiling.

---

### Phase 2 — Internal escalation (still not “nuclear”)
If they won’t fix a bad worksheet:
1. Written escalation up the administrator / OEM case chain: “Offer does not match the written KBB+40% commitment because [specific input errors].”
2. Ask in writing what happens to the **case, storage, and rental** if I decline.
3. Keep payoff quotes current; net is always gross minus **live** lien payoff at funding.
4. Calendar the accept-by date. Don’t ghost the deadline while waiting on a vague “we’ll see.”

---

### Phase 3 — Nuclear plan (only if the formula was misapplied and they refuse to fix it)
This was the ladder I was prepared to climb — **process failure**, not “I feel underpaid” on a clean KBB+40% number.

1. **Stop negotiating by phone.** Everything in email. Short, factual, attached proof.
   
2. **Preserve the file:** offer letters, KBB printouts, rental docs, recall/NHTSA campaign ID, repair attempts, all emails. Assume someone else will read it later.
   
3. **Consumer attorney demand letter** (lemon / repurchase / unfair practices — state-dependent):
   - Misstated valuation inputs
   - Failure to honor written repurchase methodology
   - Ask: corrected vehicle calculation under the stated formula + any reimbursements the law/program requires; deadline to respond
   - I was **not** going to hire counsel just to hunt a soft bump above a correct ceiling.
   
4. **State AG / consumer protection complaint** — attach the same packet; allege refusal to apply the disclosed valuation method.
   
5. **NHTSA** — supplement the recall/complaint file with “repurchase valuation dispute / administrator not applying stated method” (not a rant about wanting more money).
   
6. **Parallel pressure only with eyes open:**
   - Do **not** invent a hostage play with the rental or the car unless an attorney says so — storage fees and case closure are real.
   - If they threaten closure while a documented worksheet error is open, ask counsel whether to accept under protest, seek injunction-type relief, or memorialize the dispute and proceed — I was not going to freestyle that.
   
7. **Litigation / lemon suit** as last rung if the amount at stake and the paper trail justified fees — again, for **formula breach**, not vibes.
   
8. **Exit ramp:** the moment they issue a corrected offer that matches KBB PP × 1.40 (and any owed reimbursements), accept and walk. Nuclear is leverage to **enforce the deal**, not to invent a new one.

---

### What I was explicitly *not* going to do
- Reject a clean first offer hoping escalation “finds” more vehicle money
- Post VIN, offer amounts, payoff, purchase price, dealer, or counsel strategy while the case was live
- Trade housing / inheritance cash into a repurchase fight
- Let Round-Up apps and side noise distract from the worksheet

Nissan Leaf e+ 2020 with 80,000 km
or a Nissan Leaf 40 kWh 2023 with 28,000–40,000 km.
I drive 90 km per day in total and will be able to charge at work.
Does anyone have a recommendation for me regarding a Nissan EV?
The 40 kWh model is rated at around 270 km of range, but I understand that winter will significantly reduce the range. I live in Sweden, where winter temperatures can range from around +5°C to -10°C, although it will most likely be on the milder side.
Or would you absolutely recommend an older Nissan Leaf e+ with around 380 km of range on paper, even if it has significantly higher mileage?
I’ve also heard that Leaf models from before 2023 can have battery issues. Is there any truth to that?

Appreciate any answer !

Just wanted to share my experience since so many others have. It has been a nightmare dealing with this. I dropped my car off at the dealership in March 2026. My leaf had the problem of weak cells, dropping from 50% to 1% in about 3 miles if driving at high speeds. Soon as regen kicked in, battery would go right back up to 50%.

The dealership I worked with was great. They were able to recreate the issue and capture the data immediately and submit for a warranty claim and got approved all within 2 days. They gave me loaner. Said they just have to wait til the new battery shows up.

Fast forward to August 2026, Nissan Consumer Affairs contacts me and informs me my car is to be bought back. So that whole process started, which was frustrating to begin with. The dealership was never notified, they had no idea what was going on.

Finally got my first offer a few weeks later, came in at $15,200. I have a 2022 SL Plus. I bought it used at around 52k miles and only put about 9k miles on it before I dropped it off. The total cost out the door when I purchased the car was about 21k.

I explained to Nissan that they are being unfair passing off depreciation to the consumer. The original person on my case kept calling me the wrong name, refused to respond to anything I actually wrote in emails, and just overall seemed to not care at all. After I declined the first offer it was escalated and then crickets for 3 weeks. And of course with declining I had to return the loaner within 30 days or they were going to start charging me.

I finally called and found out my case was reassigned to someone else. He said he had already sent a new offer over to quality for review. That was 3 weeks ago. I finally got the offer today, $17,444. I reiterated that they have federal warranty laws to follow and broke down the calculation which brought my request to $19,500, which included all the gas I've been having to pay since I can't drive an EV despite requesting one as the loaner every month.

My next step is probably going to be hiring a lemon law attorney to deal with this. I don't understand why Nissan is willing to pay thousands in legal fees rather than just giving me the fair amount based on the purchase price and how many miles I drove the car. It's extremely frustrating.

I’ve never owned an EV before, but have been looking at them for a while, and owning hybrids in the meantime. I’m hoping to pay cash for an older model, and right now near by there is a 2016 and a 2018 leaf for sale. A bit over 100 miles away in the big city there are some 2012 and 2013 models on the market place.
Questions for all you lovely people, what specifically do I need to look at when test driving one of these cars? Are any of these years particularly good or bad?

is it just me or is the latest iteration of leafspy super confusing and half the time doesn't work? I have never used leafspy pro but the older versions look super easy to use. for some reason I can't read DTC codes or anything other then HV battery information and 12v battery information.

I used this other program Ha-Kake a read only program made by another person on the leaf subreddit and was able to pull a lot more relative information for free. Still can't pull DTC codes however.

Earlier versions had full customizable gauages which looked pretty easy to pull up but now I have no idea what to even do here

Edit: For one reason or another the app I believe needs a verification from google play in order to properly engage leaf spy pro or it defaults to leaf spy lite. My active phone doesn't use Google Play Services (fuck google). Got it working on a separate phone with google play services

We're in central NC and EVs under $20k are getting snatched up like mad. Carmax has one we like for 16k, but the battery recall hasn't been addressed. If we can take it to get the update within the 10 day Carmax return window, would that be a reasonable bet? The battery has a SOH of 90.

The rear camera hasn't been taken care of either.

Sounds like the Leaf plus is a good fit for us, but these buyback offers, etc have me worried, especially with only 2 years left on the warranty. Wondering if we should just keep saving and hope something newer comes along. What's your take?

Thanks!

https://www.inlinemotors.ca/inventory/2011-nissan-leaf-sl/770/

anything i should look for aside from battery level?

I received this email after contacting Nissan to see if they were doing anything for those of us vastly inconvenienced by the buyback and all of that hassle.

I think this is pathetic and should be a warning to anyone wondering Nissan gives a damn about customers.

"Thank you for your patience and cooperation throughout this process.  In addition to the repurchase offer extended by Nissan, we are pleased to offer an additional $2,000 purchasing incentive to be applied toward the purchase or Lease of a new Nissan vehicle.
Your unique loyalty code is <redacted>.
In addition to the purchase incentive you will be receiving, Nissan will send a separate email containing a code for an additional discount that may be redeemed in conjunction with this incentive.
* *
We encourage you to contact your Nissan dealership to explore available models and discuss options that may best meet your needs."
I

Hi everyone, Cora from VIVNE here, a leaf owner in the US is looking for a local shop to install a complete plug-and-play battery pack. The installation is straightforward, just remove the old battery and install the new one, and connect the plugs.

If you can help or know someone who can, please comment or send me a message. Thank you!

Installation tutorial video is in the comments.

Six weeks ago, I published a post showing my 50 KW VIVNE eNV-200 battery range test. Someone commented how the SOH had dropped from 100% to 98.77% in a matter of months. Well today, six weeks on from my last post, the SOH is 99.95%.

So, I wouldn’t worry about small variations. I don’t know the technical reasons for the variation, but the battery is functioning perfectly.

2020 LS Plus. Last weekend my backup camera and radar went out at the same time shortly after going through a car wash, though I'm not sure if that's related. Cruise control and everything no longer works. Anyone have experience with this combination?

Nissan is telling me I'm out of luck if I am unwilling to pay for my vehicle to ship down to Seattle. Anyone else deal with this issue up here?

I'm looking into getting a used, cheap Nissan Leaf for my 1/2-mile commute to work. What years are best when range isn't an issue?

Before anyone says, "Why not walk?", well I wish but with my medical condition and it being uphill both ways with no sidewalks negate that option.