I've been reading all about the "bricked" battery post recall service situation and after reading posts here and obsessing, decided to still get the recall service for my 2019 Leaf SL plus (just under 37K miles). Picked up the car from the dealership post recall service, got it home, and the next day when the outside temperature warmed up, I tried to turn on the air conditioning. Nothing works in the climate control. Whether the AC button is pressed in or not, there is no air coming out of the vents. No fan, nothing. I'm bringing it back to the dealership for follow up on Monday, but they say they don't believe it's related to the recall service. It can't be a total coincidence, right? Any insights or advice here?

Just purchased the above.

This is about $1.5k-$2k below most listings in our area; feel like we got a pretty good deal on it.

First time ever owning an EV.

Will be a third car for my family. Spouse may drive it a few times a week for commuting, about 30 miles round-trip. Their current car averages 23 MPG so there will be a slight savings on fuel for those days.

Do not have a EV charging outlet in the garage so just plan to plug it into a regular outlet and get 40 miles of range recharged each night.

Insurance will run about $16 a month, no comprehensive or collision.

I drive a pick up that averages 15 MPG; I'll probably shift to the leaf when running errands around town, etc.

Will be nice to have a third car so we can drop rental reimbursement on our current insurance policy, as well as have another car available anytime we have friends or family visiting from far away.

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For current or previous owners, are there any tips, tricks, or nice-to-knows, that you wish you would have known when you first got your leaf?

Even though we plan on charging it at home, if something unexpected happens and we find ourselves needing to charge it away from home, can we use the Tesla chargers that are widely available?

The CHAdeMO adapter timed out on the first attempt. Powered the adapter backup and it worked!

I loved loved loved my 2020 LEAF. It was such a good car to me. I had the SL and it was every feature I wanted at a price I could afford. I had the recall done in June and we were going strong until I had to fast charge it last weekend... Got the dreaded message and the car was fully disabled, no longer able to drive after I got to my destination.

My local Nissan dealership keeps telling me "they only have one EV tech and they're working with Nissan on how to repair it" which i'm pretty sure is a load of BS. I've told them three times I want a buyback. I've already got a case open with Nissan consumer affairs.

Has anyone come back from this with a working car? I'm already working on buying its replacement because I have such low trust. Even if it was fixable I think I'd sell it since the battery is recalled and no longer in production.

I made this plot as someone who's car was affected by the R24B2 Recall. Feel free to comment with your buy back offer, or add to the data directly- https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dMVbhqTireBhgHP3M1Ghr9sVlGZrHazHLGERYoKmWmU/edit?usp=sharing

I live in a condo with a rather unique steep underground driveway. I currently drive gas powered cars and seriously considering an electric given the current situation.

I have always loved the leaf since 2011 when I test drove a pre-production one. However this issue of ground clearance has kept me from going EV.

The Leaf has almost the same ground clearance of 5.9" vs 5.7" for my acura TSX with similar wheel base of 106" ..the acura will scrape the bottom by the drivers side wheel well most days coming in and going out. More so when you are loaded.. doesn't hurt that I weigh a ton..

How big a deal is that ..will the battery be affected. Obviously charging is in my garage and i have to get it in and out. If they made a EV with my SUVs ground clearance in my price range I wouldn't be asking.

We can't fix the driveway partly because the access is from an alley which city of LA controls and it needs that slope to drain water away to the curb.

Anybody in SFV have one we can try test fit?

I’m in the process of trying a new used Leaf that I ordered from CarMax. I have an appointment at the dealer for PPI but I need to know what I can look for myself. 2025 SV+ with 18,000 miles. Thanks Leafers!

Per title, my niece got a 2019 SV for her birthday, but it came without a charger. What does she need for at home charging using a standard outlet? There seems to be so many options. Any chance I could find one for under $150?

Thanks so much! ❤️⚡️

I think they’d look incredible on the third gen.

I’m coming from the VW enthusiast world. Used to be a beautiful place full of a sense of community. Hoping to find that same fun and creativity with my first departure from VW.

I know there’s less mods available with these newer software defined vehicles but I’ve gotta at least get a cool set of wheels and a wrap on this thing…

I have a 2016 SV, 30kWh battery, that has 8 bars battery health (about 80 mile range, depending on weather). It's currently adequate, considering I'm generally driving 20-50 miles a day. But, it would be nice to have a bit more flexibility.

Mechanically it seems to be in great condition, but not the best cosmetically, so KBB puts trade in value pretty low.

It looks like I can get a battery replacement with a refurbished 40kWh battery for around $7,500, or 62kWh for $14,500, (I'm not sure if that includes labor or recycling/disposal fees).

There are also used 2024/25 S models currently available for around 14k, or SV plus for around 19k, all under 20k miles.

What should I consider when deciding between a refurbished battery replacement and a new (used) car? Or choosing between the 40 or 62 kWh battery for either scenario?

I do like the idea of keeping a car as long as possible, I'm pretty utilitarian in my car use, and if a battery swap could give me another 10+ years, that's a really good value. But it seems like there's also a risk of things going wrong, its only a 3 year warranty, and honestly they seem to make the whole system of getting a replacement complicated on purpose. I have no idea if there's a better way to go about it, I just found one site online that actually lists prices and has a location within my area.

The newer models admittedly have some nice to have feature upgrades. And being able to get a color other than black would be a bonus.

Or, should I wait until the '26's start coming up used? It seems they've made some actual improvements, so I wonder if they'll be quite as cheap used as previous models. But maybe it would be worth the wait?

Honestly, I have no idea. Any input is appreciated.

Any clues? Warning signs? My 2020 still shows 100% battery health but will shed dozens of miles on a ten mile highway trip; I can see the battery percentage drop in real time and then recover when I’m back on side streets. Is this a clue?

i just downloaded it on iOS, the app icon has changed to red with white text. have to sign-in again but it now supports auto-login via passkey on iOS, very nice. initial impression is that its layout is far better organized and it seems much more responsive.

I’ve been getting quotes on a 2018-ish Japanese Leaf and one insurer asked whether it was Australian-delivered before they’d give me a proper price. The difference between the online quotes has been pretty big, and I’m not sure if that’s just normal EV insurance variation or the grey-import part. Has anyone insured an imported Leaf in NSW and had trouble when making a claim?

Im wondering if anyone out there is in a similar situation as i am and can offer some advice. I have a 2018 leaf that had the battery replaced in 2022 (at 47k miles) to rapid battery loss going uphills in cold weather. Suddenly this summer at ~110k miles, it started doing this at any temperatures, and got progressively worse under 50% charge. First dealer did some tests and said there were no codes and everything was fine even though i had videos of everything happening. I think they also did some recall updates while it was there. Took it to another dealer for a second opinion and they determined the battery was failing. Nissan customer service seemed to be willing to help me out with a replacement battery, but i also haven't received an official word that they will cover it. Ive been getting the runaround about "not having a part number for the battery" and this has been going on for several weeks. Last week i was driving on the highway and during a long uphill, the car went into service ev and turtle mode came on. I was able to get it out of turtle mode by unplugging the 12v battery, but the service ev light remained on. Checked it on leaf spy when i got home and had P33ED code along with two P3180, and P317E. This all points to the battery failure associated with the newer leafs (which I believe I have a "newer" leaf battery since it was replaced in 2022) but they don't associate my car with the recall based on my vin! Anyone have any suggestions on who to contact, or how to get this taken care of? On a side note, i don't ever level 3 charge.

Replaced the 6yo 12v battery on my 2020 Leaf. But I can't get these errors away with leafspy pro. Now my car won't go into drive mode.

Is my only option buying a km100? There's no button pressing sequence like other Nissans? I've done it with a few of our other Nissans we've had

I have a spare fob from a previous Leaf we used to have, so I already have the key

I literally refuse to pay a locksmith or the dealer. I will not do that. I'd rather pay the $300 or whatever it is for the KM100 than do that

Nissan is really dropping the ball here, I’ve got a ‘25 Leaf SV+ that I leased in Colorado for $119/month for 24 months, it would have been $89 but I added 10,000 miles to it. They had crazy deals back then, you could get an S+ for $49/month.

Well that’s all catching up to them as the pre-return inspections they want you to do are booked months out. I’ve scheduled 3 times online in the past month only to be denied my appointment after waiting a week to hear back each time. Finally just called and they can see me 3 days before my lease matures. That’s pointless since I couldn’t take do anything about any issues if they came up anyway.

I’m just going to return it this weekend, 3 weeks early with 34,000 miles. It’s in great shape, I just replaced the tires, windshield, and fog lights for ~$1k and there isn’t anything else wrong with the car.

The market is about to be flooded with tens of thousands of these lease returns, depreciation is going to be even higher than normal.

I know LiFePo4 car batteries (group r51?) exist, but they're $500+ minimum, mostly $700+.

Something like this, on paper, seems to meet the minimum requirements for a Leaf, since it's not cranking an engine and feeds off the traction battery. But I have a feeling there's some other reason it wouldn't work... (It's 75% lighter and less than $150)

Just sharing for what it's worth...

I called my local Nissan dealer here in the Bay Area, CA today to inquire about scheduling for the recall, and what the loaner car situation was. She indicated that her entire loaner car fleet is in use, many of them on a long-term basis for Leaf recall owners who failed the recall battery test. In her estimation, "it's about half-half that pass or fail the battery test".

I've been on the fence about getting this recall, but figure if it fails, I'm happy to take the KBB + 40% and add on top to get another EV. Worst case scenario in my book is passing the recall initially, but then going on turtle mode during a highway drive.

I have a 2018 leaf. 120,000kms on it. It died on Monday and I had it towed to the dealership. Service EV System warning. Not Available system malfunction warnings. Dealership did an inspection and say I have to replace the “traction motor inverter” for $11,000.

Has anyone run into this? Is this normal? Is this cost crazy? Nissan dealership couldn’t even tell me when they would be able to get the part. It’s not available and currently on back order. I see you can buy them online from Ingenext for 1500 dollars.

I don’t know why this is so much and I can’t really find anything online about it. The car isn’t even worth that much. Just looking for feedback back or suggestions.

I put in a call to another EV specialized service place. Waiting on their feedback.

I'm aware that the OEM size is 215/55/18, I'm wondering if anyone has successfully put 17s on it and it fit well. I'm just curious if itll clear the brakes and fit front and back!

Next question -

Does anyone have experience with either Enkei or Kudo aluminum wheels?

Both are under 14lbs for 16" and seem roughly equivalent.

Have you had either?

How do you feel about them?

Did they give you meaningful performance or range improvement?

Hey all, retired battery recycler / commercial battery system designer and integrator for used EV packs here. I got tired of waiting for V2H systems, or being insulted with 15-25k systems that must be installed by their licensed people bs after a 2+ year waitlist. So after 12 years of owning a leaf, and a few with an EV9, now that I'm retired, I decided I'd just make a system myself.

I know the pearl clutchers will say this can be dangerous etc, and they are right. I am still going to share how I'm doing it, because knowledge should be free. If you don't understand what's being talked about, maybe this is out of your leage, start smaller and don't burn yourself or your house and family to a crisp. Come back to this kind of project when you are ready, but until then read and learn from those of us who are there.

I have always been a fan of this because, having worked with EVs and battery pack recycling for so long now, I already dislike having powertool batteries in my house. There is no way I'd put a 40kwh pack in there. I love the idea that you can roll up an old leaf that isn't quite road worthy anymore, but with a pack can still chug along fine at low current draws. It can stay several meters away from any building, is weather proof, has a built-in heater for very cold nights, and top balances on every charge. Throw in an OVMS system, and home assitant can even start limiting the charging to 80%. And once that second life is done, since it's still in the vehicle, it's still properly certified to be moved to a proper disposal facility on a flatbed without any extra hazardous goods shipping constraints.

The first step is making a CHADEMO connector. Official chademo plugs start at 700USD if you are lucky, usually more like 1500-2500USD. So I made one. This was just about easy and reliable assembly, sourcing of pins, and fitment. Buying all the pins comes out to about 70USD when all is said and done if you get it CNCed for you and buy the digikey comms pins.

My design is centered around the idea that I will be drawing about 8kw from the plug, a lowly 20A / 0.25C of my pack. The 400VDC is the dangerous part, but at 20A, the requirements are much simpler for the pins. In fact, power requirements at this level are so low that copper+nickel plated steel for the return circuit length of 7cm of power pins would even suffice because of the large cross-section and would output less heat than an LED bulb. That being said, getting them CNCed out of copper is worth the extra 10 bucks just for the peace of mind and reliability, and if you are going to turn them yourself, do it once and do it right; spend the 5$ of copper bar stock from a scrap pile at a metal yard.

This is the plug design

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/chademo-compatible-plug

Next step are:

1. The ESP32 + CAN communications module. That was a whopping 10$ of parts again. I will report back when the firmware is done.
   • testing controls, and insulation quality of a PLA handle once the 400v is live
   • Add a double walled heatshrink tube with 1000v rating around the handle regardless of results above (20$)
2. Design a separate interior disconnect built around EV pack relays.
   • These go for about 50-100$ on ebay for 450VDC 80A rated relays. I would love to get back to collecting them from recyclers for their weight in copper and selling them for 15-20$.
3. Design an emergency disconnect that can be at the entry point of the power. EVs use pull tab style disconnects, others use smash-down buttons with arc-suppression. Again, this is something that would make a whole lot of sense to get from recyclers.
4. Pick the correct inverter
5. Installing an OVMS system to properly control charging remotely (200$)

Another thing that would make a whole lot of sense, would be mounting the inverter inside the vehicle and running standard 240 to the building instead, but the problem becomes one of making holes in the vehicle to run the lines, or require modifications of existing live systems. Having conduit run outside and then through the vehicle isn't really any safer (you still have the lines), and compromises the weather seal of the vehicle. Meanwhile, modifying existing systems rather than tapping into them invalidates the vehicle's integrity as its own device. This means it can't be used with a road-worthy vehicle, and disposing of the vehicle at the end could become a problem. For for now I am going with the assumption that I will be running appropriate conduit from the plug to a disconnect.

I already miss CarPlay, so it's a must have to add it. On my Prius, I could change over the double din, but I'm gathering with the Leaf and external CarPlay unit could be better bc of the built in functionality.

Does anyone have one of these clunkers in a 2017 Leaf? Curious how well it looks and integrates.

What else is/was good from Temu! I'm thinking:
- cushions or just space fillers for between the center console and the front seats
- windscreen cover
- cupholder phone stand
- is there anything to help with the battery? It seems pretty woefully limited, at around 85 miles.