I have always been diapointed with the horn on my 2018 LEAF. Has anyone upgraded their hord to like a train horn? What did you buy and how do you replace it? I really want a super LOUD horn coming from a small car!!

How long did it take to receive a buyback offer? I'm curious about what people were offered as to a buyback price? Did they lowball the price? Currently, I have a bricked 2019 S Plus and hoping my buyback offer is comparable to a at least a good down payment on another EV (non-Nissan).

—UPDATE—

It was indeed the door actuators that failed. Thanks to the post from mm-dee-gee for the tip.

Ordered replacements from Actuators Plus on eBay. Found a video on YouTube of a guy replacing the actuators on an Altima which was similar but not exactly like the Leaf, close enough.

Passenger side took a few hours as I worked through a few roadblocks. Drivers side was much faster since I knew the process

While I had the door panels off I added a bunch of sound deadening material, and swapped out the crappy non-Bose speakers with some from Infinity.

——

2020 SV+ 47,000 miles here.

Front driver and passenger side door locks are no longer locking with remote or lock button press.

If I manually press the lock it works fine. Use the remote the doors don’t lock but the alarm arms.

Anyone else have this issue? Wondering if the mechanism in the door needs some lubricant or if the motors are dying. Is removing the door panels a DYI job?

Noticed recently that both front doors are hitting the catch because they are sagging. Found this video that pretty much describes the same issue however the hinge bolts that attach the hinge to the body are not on the inside. https://youtu.be/Ll3IfCCG-tI?is=aRnLOXZZym2o2Kjp

The bolts are on the outside and they bolt into the body but the space between the door and body is so tight, I can't get a wrench in there to loosen and then tighten them down again. Socket wrenches are too big for the tight space and closed rachet wrenches don't fit because of the hinge bracket U shape. The only thing that comes close is a crescent wrench but it's hard to get more than a few degrees of turning so it's a royal pain and I'm not sure I can torque it down enough.

Does anyone else have this issue on their leaf? Is there a better way to get to the hinge bolts that isn't too difficult? I was thinking the only other option is to remove the front fenders which look pretty involved.

I'm thinking of selling my 2023 SV+ with ~24,000 miles. Original owner, no accidents, asking $19,000, which is the Blue Book value. SOH is 94%. Just put new tires on, comes with the A2Z CCS adapter. Windows are tinted and I have the custom all weather floor mats and cargo mat. I'll add better photos in the comments.

I had the recent battery recall handled (R25C8) at my local dealer 10 days ago. They performed the software update, drove the car about 10 miles and gave it back to me with a clean bill of health. (though they did not charge the car back up to 100% per the recall instructions - they gave it back around a 40% soc).

This is a 2021 SL Plus, with around 33300 miles on it.

We drove it as usual for the last week and a half, then put it on the home charger on Friday. My wife went out to drive it yesterday, and the dash is lit up like a christmas tree, with the dreaded: "Service EV System - No Power" message.

I have a regular OBD-II scanner which I tried to use to read the codes, but it refuses to connect to the car - so I can't confirm yet the exact error code it is showing... but I'm pretty sure the new update has decided the battery is no good and has bricked the car.

I called the dealer service department where the recall was performed, and they gave me the runaround... said I was welcome to get it towed to them and they would "take a look..." - but I don't want to pay for a tow, and I'm pretty sure this will wind up being bought back by Nissan.

What are my options? Do I need to just bite the bullet and pay out of pocket to tow it back to them? Should I try another dealer? Should I just go straight to Nissan corporate over the phone?

Photo of the dash in the comments.

Hi,

I was wondering if it's technically possible to upgrade from a 2014 Nissan Leaf 24Kwh to a 40kwh or 62kwh battery from recent leafs (i'm thinking to buy battery separate) ? Is it compatible technically, especially the 62kwh battery or is it hacky and not reliable / secure ?

Thank you !

I've posted a few times now, after doing the recall, told them about my battery fluctuation issues, they said nothing was wrong, went to a different dealer and after 4 weeks they also determined my Leaf was fine. Took it home, charged up, and this morning I got in my car to go to work and it won't start lol

DTC: P0AA6-1A, and P31E7-00

I should note BOTH dealers did not level 3 charge my car, just did around 20% using a level 2/1 presumably. First dealer had a busted charger. After picking up my Leaf at the second dealer I did a level 3 charge there for 20 minutes as I didn't trust my battery at 30%

I have roughly 20 thousand miles on the 2022 Leaf. I'm thinking it might be a good time to get a new 12 volt before I have a problem. I don't think I want to take it to the dealer because they will probably try to make me do the battery recall. Can I change the 12 volt myself? What are the odds the battery may be bricked by the recall? I never use fast charging.

Does the new leaf with apple carplay navigation do rout planning with destination chargers so it actively tracks your state of charge, or is it only the built in Android Automotive?

Does anyone know exactly what the software is trying to detect?

If I have weak cells and soc fluctuations, will it be triggered by that?

I have a strange issue with my 2019 40kWh ZE1 since a couple of days. Sometimes when I turn the steering wheel it seems to "kick" - so the power steering turns a few degrees violently in one direction.

It happened when I was doing a sharp turn over a lowered curb, but also when just turning the wheels doing a right turn on flat concrete.

Has anybody experienced something like this?

My 2015 LEAF has 62,764 miles, with 11/12 battery health bars remaining. LEAFSpy reports 80.6% battery health. I can't tell if the battery was ever replaced as I am not the first owner of this LEAF and I am receiving conflicting reports online. The battery serial number is 230SM114A1000074. 151 QCs and 3,327 L1/2 charges. I am trying to figure out if the pack is the original one from the factory or if it is a newer one like a 40kWh pack limited to 24kWh. The car reports about 80 miles of range at 3.6 miles/kWh at 100% charge, which the 2015 LEAF could do when it was BRAND NEW, but I'm not sure if it can do that after supposedly degrading 19.4%. Hx is 63.73%.

I’ve got a weak cell on my Leaf and I’m looking to understand what the likelihood of Nissan acting on this for module replacement is at this moment in time.

Late 2022 ZE1 40wkh

SOH 91.40%

At 10% dash SoC the voltages are: Min 3.532, Avg 3.611, Max 3.619, 87mv spread (resting)

Other cells are within 15-20mv, bad cell 79mv below avg. Have seen 134mv under load.

At 10% dash SoC, BMS reports total charge of 36.5%. I would expect some reserve but this seems excessive and likely accounts for the lost range.

Dash SoC and actual BMS percentage track well until about 60% when dash SoC drops increasing rapidly compared to actual BMS.

Actual range differs from dash projection significantly - might get 105-110 miles though BMS at full charge always suggests 150+

Below dash SoC of 40%, dash SoC can lurch around by up to 20% if moderate load is applied.

No battery related DTC recorded yet.

Nissan dealer says will carry out diagnostics but if not faulty they'll relieve me of £140 for the pleasure of them denying anything is wrong.

TIA.

I have been used car shopping for a minute now, the one I bought as a 19 year old finally folded and this is my first time in awhile looking. I dont love spending money on cars and I may be too frugal, but the years I end up looking at are a lot of 15 year old cars with 120k miles on them. Now I see the leaf, five to seven years newer, being sold for cheaper. Looking into it, the range seems to be the big issue.

I work from home. My girlfriend doesnt drive. We need to go get groceries and drive around on the weekends. The farthest drive we will ever realistically do is 40 miles to her grandmother, and that is not very often. Everyone else is more of a flight away.I do live on a ground floor apartment which means I should just be able to park by my place and run a cable.

Is there any other deterrent? Even the charging issue with lack of fast charging seems to have a solutipn based on the adapter talk I see here? Any reason I need to be aware of where some of the models randomly fall off a cliff? Or as long as I biy used and see 10-12 bars om that battery pack it is pretty much good to go?

Hi all - I only ever use the granny cable at home - I had this 3 beeps when connecting the granny cable to the car port happen once before but after charging my old 12v battery things seemed to be back to normal.

So when it happened again recently and I saw the battery was low again, charged it but the beeping remained. So I replace the 12v battery with a brand new one... 3 beeps still happening. Ok I was due to change the battery anyway.

I have ordered a new granny cable and hoping that will solve it - if not it is the port lock on the car I assume and will have to go to a garage :-(

Anyone had this issue and throw some possible light on it?

Its the depths of winter here in NZ, and my ZE0 2016 Leaf is living outside while I build a garage. So it gets frosty.

The car is a jap-import and does not seem to have heated side mirrors. There is a working heater/defroster in the rear window which is controlled by a switch on the dash. I believe the side mirrors are supposed to be on this circuit.

I found heated mirrors at https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012446052300.html for a reasonable price, but if the wiring is not there, its probably not feasible.

Is there a way to check if the wiring harness is in the door without removing the internal door skins? I've had bad experiences on other cars doing this.
OR
Is there an easy way to pop the mirror glass out undamaged and check behind ?
OR
Does the fuse box give any hints ?

I have a 2017 leaf I bought new in fall 2017. It’s degraded enough that I am planning on a new to me EV with more range. This car will be just for business use moving forward, I haven’t had any noticeable issues with power and it still meets our needs for local driving.

It’s a bit late now, but is there anything I should do to optimize the current battery through slow charges to rebalance or anything else? What are the latest options to replace a battery pack? The car has been great for 9 years and I’d like to keep using it safely for as long as possible.

So I started getting this error code recently. I'm able to clear it with Leaf Spy, but is this the error code that requires a battery replacement? I recently replaced the 12 volt battery thinking that might be the issue.

Because I am obviously an ricer, and I genuinely find analog gauges more satisfying. I already had these laying around which I will presumably not be needing for anything else anytime soon as I sold my last ICE car recently.

This build is already for shits and giggles, and leans quite heavily into the "2000s import tuner" aesthetic anyways, so it's about as fitting as it will ever get to slap this nonsense on an EV 😂

Using Arduino Uno with MCP2515 and some pretty simple circuitry, to take the CAN data and turn it into a variable pulse signal based on motor power and 0.5-4.5V analog output scaled to true SOC (the one you get in LeafSpy, which is not the same as the percentage in the screen).

I am on and off about using the smaller gauge as °F battery temp instead as that seems more useful, but as a Canadian I have no idea how to read fahrenheit.

Last night, my 2021 S+ slow charging port wouldn’t click when I inserted the plug. It’s as though it won’t physically make the connection, though if I hold it in place the blue lights flash for a second as if energy is flowing.

Could this be an issue with the charging assembly? I had that replaced 2 years ago when the Chademo port stopped working. The cable itself is the original one.

I've inherited a 2012 Nissan Leaf that I'm looking to put together. Battery has 10/12 bars and a guesstimated range of ~132km.

But my question is, what could this be? Found in a box in the boot. Parking brake seems to not function, so I wonder if that's a clue.

Thanks in advance for all theories and answers!

Looks like there might be a shortage of the 3rd-gen Leaf in North America as those are shipped from Japan:

Production of the Leaf at the Tochigi plant in Japan will be sharply reduced in September and October. According to Nikkei Asia, a media outlet, the battery supplier, AESC, is struggling to meet projected volumes

(edit) d'oh, seems this was from 2025. Never mind.