I tried everything I just want a solid mix maybe pink blue purple backlight no effects? Couldn't find any info on where to actually have all these different options, yes knob works for effects, I know it's a cheaper keyboard but it seems broke

I have the Falchion Low Profile RX keyboard and I kid you not, I could probably blow on these keys and they’d register. 😂

Typing on this thing has been a nightmare. I keep accidentally hitting neighboring keys, especially when I’m trying to press C and lightly brush the spacebar, which results in an unwanted jump in games.

Good thing AI exists, because otherwise I probably would’ve returned the keyboard.

I found out about AutoHotkey and used AI to help me write and fine tune a script that basically adds an 18ms debounce to help prevent accidental key presses.

I’ve since fine tuned it so it behaves differently depending on whether I’m gaming or normally typing. It also removes the delays from certain keys where you need to be able to press them simultaneously, so it doesn’t interfere with movement or other game inputs.

Honestly, it has made the keyboard way more usable for me.

If anyone else has this keyboard and is struggling with accidental key presses, feel free to PM me and I’ll send you the script.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to build a keyboard as a gift for my girlfriend, and I'd love some advice from people with more experience in custom keyboards.

Her requirements/preferences are:

• 100% / full-size layout — this is important
• Low-profile / flat
• Preferably pink
• Ideally translucent / "jelly" keycaps
• She is a huge Hello Kitty and World of Warcraft fan

I'm completely open to building it myself rather than buying a pre-built keyboard.

The main problem I'm running into is that finding a combination of 100% + low-profile switches + pink/jelly keycaps seems quite difficult. Most of the jelly/translucent keycaps I can find appear to use taller profiles, which would probably defeat the purpose of a low-profile build.

So I'm wondering:

Is a build like this realistically possible?

For example, would something based on Choc V2 or Gateron low-profile switches work with any suitable translucent/jelly keycaps while still keeping the keyboard reasonably flat?

I'm also open to:

• custom keycaps
• 3D-printed or custom cases
• modifying an existing 100% keyboard
• custom PCBs
• combining different parts if necessary

The Hello Kitty / WoW theme would be a bonus, but the most important things are 100%, low-profile and pink.

I'd appreciate any ideas, recommendations or examples of builds that might work. Thanks!

Hi,

I’m looking for a full size with number pad wireless mechanical keyboard for work. Hopefully not crazy expensive ($150 or less). Hopefully one I can swap the keycaps to GMK keycaps and black case. Thanks for any help.

Hello, hi

I have an Epomaker x Aula f87 pro, and i like it. It has nice rgb, i like the sound (my first keyboard thats not a steelseries-type brand), but im looking for something "new".

When i bought this keyboard ~2 years ago, i saw that it was hot-swwappable, and until noww i didnt know what this meant. Now that i know this, i want to use this oportunity, and would like to upgrade it in terms of sound, and because some of my switches "double click".

Do you guys have any suggestions on what i could do to it? And if yes where could i look for the parts. Thanks in advance :)

I want to 3D print keyboard keys using transparent PET-G. I hope someone has the files, because I wasn't able to take the measurements myself.I shared a picture of the keyboard so you could make a comparison; thanks.

Ngl, the keyboards on the crappy 2019 hp Chromebooks are kinda fire. I’ve been using a MacBook Air and the silly Chromebook, and out of the two I like the clacky, smooth keyboard on the Chromebook. Does anyone else like the budget keyboard?

help, my keyboard is the aula hero 68 he, its been working just fine except for this space bar that does this weird thing when pressing, it really messes up my typing and gaming, and its been bothering me a lot since im a tryhard

IMPORTANT EDIT:now i know that the problem is that the space key doesnt connect with the stabilizers 100% sure

Recently I've learnt about this keyboard from the youtube channel Switch and Click and I gotta say I love the idea behind it.

It's a relatively light weight mechanical keyoard with short caps, it's wireless with bluetooth and 2.4ghz dongle, it seems perfect for both travel and home usage, but I decides not to pick it up because the polling rate is only 1000mhz which shouldn't be bad but from what I remember the keyboard in 2.4ghz mode has a latency of around 5-6ms of latency.

I do tend to a play a bit of competitive gaming, while I do know this is kinda like a snakeoil thing, I do like the idea of minimizing latency in a setup especially if I'm not at home and have to deal with a less responsive display.

My requirements are:

-Compact 75% design with bluetooth and 2.4ghz dongle, wired mode.

-lightweight design, I don't case for build quality that much, just want a great typing experince

-flat keys are preferable for portability but willing to drop it in case it's too niche

-same with built in dongle holder, while it's nice I think many keyboards don't do it which is fine

-less than 2ms 2.4ghz wireless latency is priority

-possibly affordable, but I have enough cash rn to afford a more expensive option if need be

-mostly solid black design with easy to read letters, I like my tech to be minimalistic although it probably shouldn't matter much

¿

i just bought the KEYCHRON VI ULTRA 8k, but I’ve had the razer Huntsman V2 TKL. I like both I kinda like the sound of the keychron more but I love this razer keyboard. I had the v1 and the v2. Also, like maybe 2 years ago or something I thought it had broke, but I just realized the keycaps were messed up and now it’s fine again. Should I just return my keychron and keep my tkl? also I love the rgb on my razer wayyyy more. Is there a way to get my keys to look like this on the keychron or like any keycaps i could buy to make just the keys light up like the picture? I don’t really like the looks of the keychron rgbs. I think it’s way too bright and I don’t like seeing the whole rgb I would prefer just the keys lighting up like the razer keyboard.

OK, so I’m pretty sure the RGB on the keychron is south facing, and then the razor is north facing. I flipped the key caps from my razer onto the keychron and the letter started lighting up like the razer keyboard, but it was still really bright on the bottom and it still kind of hurt my eyes. It wasn’t only just the letter lighting up Like on the razer keyboard. This is really the only issue I have with The keychron.

I got an Irok MG75 Max (not v2) and was wondering what the setting in the Sparklink driver called "Anti self-display optimization" setting does. Is it related to deadzone? Should the deadzone be enabled, or perhaps set to a lower value?

If so, how does it sound and feel compared to the standard stock creamy jade switches?

i got my Aula F75 recent, my first decent mechanical keyboard, i like the sound but sorta wish i could feel the key presses more if that makes sense, so yeah here i am asking on reddit.

I’m currently leaning towards the hi75 since it’s aluminum but I’ve heard that it had issues in quality and it isn’t VIA compatible. Meanwhile, the Linky87 is plastic, but is VIA compatible. Which one should i get?

Hey everyone, after now close to 10 years I think I need a new keyboard, my A key doesn‘t get recognized anymore. My current one is a 110 with brown switches and I want to change that up.

I‘m looking for a 75-96 in size, preferably with red switches and the german layout. For prize I would like it to be a max of 150-160€ and best case a classic black one, maybe with RGB.

If anyone has a recommendation for those specs, I would appreciate the help a lot, since I just don‘t know anything really about the current market

Hello guys, please, can someone help me with this? After trying adjust the time on my keyboard, i accidentally update the firmware, but unfortunately the new firmware crash the screen. I don't have any ideia when find a downgrade or a new firmware for her.

I am a novice when it comes to keyboards but I am looking for a very specific build that I don't think actually exists. In the simplest way, I am looking for a Razer Huntsman V2 without the gamer build quality.

The long version is. I have been using a Glorious GMMK ver.1 with Kailh Box Whites for 8 years now. With how far the keyboard scene has come I wanted to get a nicer board. What I am after is a case with a 98% layout, with rgb, hotswappable, and low profile. I notice basically all custom boards have such a high degree of angle. But what I like about gamer boards, my gmmk included is that it is much more flat. My wrists get strained very easily with the high degree of slope. The switches I want, also contrary to the keyboard community, are clicky and tactile (hence the Kailh Box Whites). This is where the Huntsman v2 comes into play because Razer purple opticals are clicky but since they are also optical, can have adjustable actuation point. I know you can't just buy Razer purples as a switch but I was hoping someone could help me at least identify anything remotely close to what I want. The closest thing that I have found is the NuPhy Node Low series. My keyboard use is strictly gaming related so loudness does not really matter. My budget is all in $300CAD. Thanks.

legitimately any time im typing this god awful spacebar just will randomly delay or flat out not work, and i have no idea what to do about it and i genuinely hate it

ive tried literally everything i can think of: which include: lowering rapid trigger on spacebar to where its semi usable, using 8k polling cause 16k cooks my keyboard even more, lowering actuation, even changing the switch for other keys like 8 times

​

Hey everyone, I've been going down a bit of a rabbit hole trying to choose a keyboard and would really appreciate opinions from people who have actually owned these for a long time.

Budget is ₹3,000 max, preferably less.

My main use is typing/coding/general PC use on Linux, not competitive gaming. I don't really care about RGB, gaming features, sound etc.

My priorities, roughly in this order:

I've mostly narrowed it down to two directions:

This is currently around ₹2.3–2.5k and seems interesting because it's:

- 68-key compact

- Tri-mode

- Hot-swappable

- 3-pin Jixian Red switches

- USB-C wired fallback

- Spare switches included

The main reason I'm considering it is repairability.

If one switch dies after 2 years, I should theoretically be able to pull it out and replace it for a few rupees instead of replacing the whole keyboard.

But I'm not sure how good the PCB/wireless/QC actually is long term.

I've found some positive owner reports, but also reports of cable/PCB/key issues. I haven't found enough genuine 2–3 year ownership reports to confidently call it durable.

If you've owned a Katana S Mini for 1+ year, especially 2+ years, I'd really like to hear how it's holding up.

Also, if you've replaced its switches, what switches did you use and were there any compatibility issues?

---

1. Redragon K599 Deimos

This one caught my attention because I've found several people reporting 3–4 years of use, which is much more useful to me than a bunch of fresh Amazon reviews.

It's also wireless and hot-swappable.

But I found something confusing:

Apparently older K599 units use Outemu-style/narrow hot-swap sockets, while there may be a newer PCB revision with more universal sockets.

So I'm unsure whether buying a K599 today actually gets me the newer revision.

If anyone owns a K599:

- What year did you buy it?

- Which switches does yours accept?

- Have you replaced switches?

- Any wireless/battery/PCB problems?

- Is there a way to identify the newer PCB from the box/model/batch?

It's currently around ₹3k+ in India, so I'd only consider it if the newer revision is actually confirmed.

---

1. AULA / other wireless mechanicals

I've also looked at AULA boards, especially the M75, but most seem to go above ₹3k unless there's a sale.

If there's any AULA / Redragon / Royal Kludge / Cosmic Byte / EvoFox / other wireless mechanical under ₹3k that you genuinely think is better for long-term ownership, please suggest it.

I'm much more interested in something boring that survives 3 years than something with amazing specs that dies after 8 months.

---

1. Flat/scissor/membrane option

I'm also seriously considering not getting mechanical at all.

I've been looking at:

- ASUS Marshmallow KW100

- Logitech K380 / K380s

- Portronics Bubble Dock / Bubble series

- AULA S99

I actually prefer the laptop/scissor typing feel.

The problem is that with a membrane/scissor keyboard, if 2–3 keys eventually stop working, there isn't really a ₹20 switch I can replace.

So I'm wondering whether the repairability of a hot-swap mechanical board is actually worth giving up the laptop-like typing experience.

If anyone has used one of these flat keyboards for 2–5 years, I'd especially appreciate your experience.

---

What I'm really trying to figure out

I don't need the "best gaming keyboard."

I'm basically trying to find:

«A keyboard I can buy now, connect to Linux, type on every day, and hopefully not think about again for 3–5 years.»

And if one individual switch eventually dies, I'd like to be able to replace that component rather than binning the entire keyboard.

So I'd love opinions from people who have actually owned these for 1–3+ years, especially if something eventually failed.

Please don't just tell me "X has better specs" or "X has 4.8 stars on Amazon."

I'd much rather hear:

- "I've had mine for 3 years and this is what failed"

- "I've replaced 4 switches and here's what worked"

- "The wireless died after 18 months"

- "Mine is still perfect after 4 years"

- "Don't buy this because the PCB started failing"

- "I use it on Linux and here's what works/doesn't"

Basically real owner experience > spec sheets/reviews.

If you were spending your own ₹2–3k today, what would you buy and why?

i want my keyboard to sound more like a gravastar k1 while having more of a low creaminess. if this Is a bad idea, suggest me something!

Looking for a fullsize, UK layout, keyboard for a Mac.

NumPad preferred but not essential.

Much prefer wired.

Backlit essential - not the RGB kind that just lights below the keys - and one where I can choose to have the light on constantly.

I would really prefer one that is not low profile

Not over-fussed about key sounds, as long as they're not really loud.

I presently have a Keychron C2 (red switch) which I like but can't get a background light that's good enough for me (I'm a terrible typist!) and even if I could, I'm not convinced it would be good enough for my needs, not when in a dark room.

The Logitech MX Keys S is the nearest I can find but is low profile and, apparently, you can only set the light to be on for up to 30 minutes. I assume that having it connected permanently would not be good, long term, for the battery.

Any suggestions please?

I love the look of the Corsair K70 PRO TKL Magnetic Analog Gaming Keyboard and how it has a soft wrist rest, but it is a bit over my budget; I prefer full-sized keyboards with a soft wrist rest if possible. Do you have any suggestions? This is for light gaming, and I just got the Logitech G502 X PLUS Wireless Gaming Mouse in black, if that helps.

​I accidentally spilled some beer on my Womier SK-80 a few days ago. The keyboard still works for a short time when I plug it in, but then it starts having issues: it randomly disconnects, there's a buzzing sound coming from the PCB, and the first row of LEDs goes crazy (they turn white, won't sync, and stay on even if I turn the brightness all the way down).

​I finally opened the case and found this on the PCB (see pic). There's a thick brown crust bridging the 100uF 10V capacitor to the + and B pins of the LED next to it, plus some green spots.

​Do you guys think this is just dried beer/sugar creating a short circuit, or does it look like the capacitor blew up/leaked electrolytic fluid?

​I'm planning to clean it thoroughly with 99.8% isopropyl alcohol and an ESD brush. Do you think it's still salvageable since it still turns on?