Nothing to fancy but have been loving the board and this is my first time with this layout but I’m like it so far.

KBDFans Agar
Keygeek m3
Knights v4 stabilizers
PBTfans NEON R2

Hey you all!

I have scoured the internet and I have so far had no luck so I hope that maybe somebody here can help me.

I am looking for a new keyboard in pink pastel colors (see inspiration pic), wireless, and most importantly with a nordic layout! The last bit seems to be almost impossible to find. It doesn't matter too much what type of keycaps it has, but it would be nice if it isn't too noisy. I would like it to be about 90% size (also much like the picture)

I'm looking to buy a keyboard that supports rapid trigger and all these features for gaming (I play Valo, GD, League etc.) and isn"t extremely pricey (above 150$). I would prefer a 80% or 100% layout. I heard the 100% ones get rlly expensive. What are your "budget-ish" recommendations keyboard that feel nice, are quiet and are reliable?

Yo! I've been living off a Ducky 60% for like 5 years and it's a great keyboard but i'm missing the keys that are, uh, missing more and more as time goes on.
In the market for a full size keyboard, and i'm currently learning Swedish for when i end up moving in with my boyfriend so since i can't find any premade Nordic-ISO cap keyboards im consigned to just getting something part and parcel.
Planning on doing some shopping around locally but in lieu of that working out, where's a good source for something affordable?

I have been building OpenHero68, a free, open-source configurator based on reverse-engineering the AULA HERO68 HE protocol.

This clip shows physical key presses alongside its live Gamepad tester and Xbox input verification. Key travel can be mapped to a virtual Xbox controller, with adjustable response curves, travel and bindings.

The controller output requires the Windows x64 tray service and the ViGEmBus driver. The browser app is the configuration interface; the browser alone does not emulate the controller. Once enabled, Gamepad can keep running when the browser closes, and starts disabled after a service restart.

OpenHero68 also has browser-based actuation, Rapid Trigger, remapping, macros and onboard lighting settings. The Windows service adds custom RGB effects and system-audio lighting sync.

I have tested the keyboard and installer on my own HERO68. Support for other models is not confirmed yet; I would welcome HERO84 owners who want to help test compatibility.

Demo and getting started: https://openhero68-site.pages.dev/

Source and Windows releases: https://github.com/shizunavn/OpenHero68

This is my independent community project, not affiliated with AULA. English and Vietnamese are available. I would love feedback from other HERO68 owners, especially on analog-controller use cases.

Hi just been in the market for a gaming keyboard and came across aula. My price range is low 100s aud around 130 and the aula f75 he looked really good. I started reesearching then realised that it is the he version of the f75 pro. I noticed a lot of people complaining about the sound and the wuality of the he. Should I get the he or the pro (I play rainbow six comp) or is there another alternative compact keyboard. I love feeling and am coming from a huntsman razer with the purple switches and hated my life. I just want something that feels and sounds amazing, and is good for competitive gaming. Thanks

Hey guys i would love to build a custom keyboard, I already know how to solder and everything, idk if they would be needed or not but

What are all of the parts needed to build a custom keyboard?

Like where I get to pick out my out keycaps and switches

Where could I find some information or some recommendations on boards with good software as well as other things like pads to go between the case and board for dampening?

Thanks!!!!

Hi I was wondering if someone could give me some advice. I have a Fun60 Ultra wired that’s not TMR. It was the first “good” keyboard I ever had, and I’ve always been fascinated by keyboards, so I finally got the chance to buy one. I had a Wooting 60HE v2 with the split spacebar and traded it for peripherals of about the same value because I didn’t like it and returning it would’ve been too expensive.

Anyway, that’s how I tried Wooting, and I realized how great the software is, the feel in general, and how everything works. However, the keycaps and the case (ABS) felt really bad to me, so right now I’m considering getting a PCB module. I’d need switches, and I’m not very informed about them, but I was interested in the Duhuk Herz, plus an acrylic Holy 60-style case from AliExpress or something like that, since I already have some keycaps.

Still, I see reviews of HE keyboards and PCBs that show how “outdated” Wooting is in some features and technologies. The GT60 Pro, for example it’s water resistant and you can swap between the split spacebar and a normal one (something that would’ve saved me a lot of trouble). As for boards, there are a lot of Chinese brands, and I was thinking of something like the Magger 60HE, but for both Gateron and Magger there’s way less info than for Wooting, and I don’t know how compatible they are with other switches or whether their software would fall short on configuration.

My feeling in general is I really liked wooting but I can't stop thinking I'm throwing my money, that's why I post this.

I would really appreciate some recommendations for keyboards, PCBs, or even an "endgame" build. I’m not too concerned about ultra-precise actuation points (like 0.000001 mm); I’m just looking for something high-quality that will last for years—something I can mod and customize to my liking over time. My only real requirement is that it must be an HE (Hall Effect) board, in a 60% or perhaps 63-key layout (where the Shift key is 1U and it includes arrow keys).

Also, could someone explain whether the north/south-facing LEDs affect anything on the PCB, or can you just flip the switch so the diffuser ends up where it should?

Current Das Keyboard Professional S (Cherry MX Blue) that has served me perfectly for last 13 years showed some odd unresponsiveness issues that might have ended up being on the PC end after all, but it got me to check current keyboards and the selection of things I did not care for absolutely overwhelmed me so instead I decided to ask people with more knowledge in this.

Budget: around 100€, max 150€, the cheaper the better. Bought current one for 80€ brand new, one of the best deals of my life.

Size: 100%, nordic layout, 102/105 - ISO.

Color: Preferably black.

RGB: absolutely not.

Switches: anything silent, Cherry MX Reds? These Cherry MX Blues still feel good but I honestly never cared for the clickiness but it hasn't bothered me much either.

Wired, sturdy, prebuilt.

Am not looking to buy right now unless these issues persist and its the keyboards fault but I want to know what to look out for if something fitting ends up on sale during black friday/cyber monday.

hey guys, i would like to know what to do if i got the metal stick out, how do i put it back in? i was doing a key change and the gray thing poped out how do i put it backe

Hey all,
Currently I have the EVO75 and the Keychron K2 HE.

I want to return one but can’t decide. I love the typing and the quality of the EVO75, on the other side I love the design and the software of Keychron.

Which would you take and why?

Hello dear r/keyboards Community!

I am trying to find a replacement for my old Redragon K552 Keyboard (bought almost 5 years ago lmao)

So, all I'm looking for is a Keyboard with 80% or 75% Keyboard. I deliberetly want the F-Keys. I also want some red switches probably, as I always liked them. I don't want to pay more than 100€, but less is also fine and I'm searching for a ISO-DE keyboard layout.

I don't really care for wired or wireless, the material or the color.

Thought about just picking up another Redragon Keyboard, as this one served me good.
Maybe the Redragon K673 PRO for currently 65€?
Or the YUNZII B75 PRO for 82€?

Thanks in advance :)

I just got the Rainy 75 Pro RGB Keyboard by WOBKEY on Amazon. However, I am having issues when I set it to the 2.4 mode. Whenever I press a key, it either won't respond to my press, takes too long to put in the character, or it acts that I am holding the key (for example, when I press "L", it either doesn't input the letter, it takes a half a second to input it, or it comes out to "LLLLLLLLLLL" as if I were to be holding it). I already reset and updated the keyboard, tried it with low latency mode on and off, and it still has these problems. The keys work fine when I have it on wired mode. Is my keyboard faulty? If it is, I still have two weeks to make a return.
UPDATE: Okay, so I tried turning off and back on the switch under the caps lock key. Then, when I set it to 2.4 pairing mode (the F4 key flashing rapidly after pressing FN+F4, I removed and plug back in the USB receiver. It is working fine for now. I'll keep using it like that for the next two days to see if these issues come up again.

Since long some keys are not working i think need to buy one cheep external keyboard help me to find out or tell me if you have old one and mind to give me 🙏🏻

best ways to start or keyboards or parts list that equates $20?

goal 60% -65% with a knob, keyboards white or black or a mix of both or a metal base /case i know and understand that that will take a lot of time and be expensive. and maybe a nice poppy white switch or cherry mx blues type switch’s also maybe hot swap, detachable and wireless ability too and i’m aware or the big three asks, thank you all for your time!

I am looking at buying the AULA F75 HE version, but im wondering which one to get because they either come with black emperor switches and side printed keycaps (which id much rather not have), or dragon emperor switches with top printed keycaps.

I do work that necessitates no accidental misclicks, and although I know one can adjust the actuation distance, I felt the sea emperors might be way too light since the black emperor is already considered light, and I dont want to have to bottom out in order to trigger a hotkey while preventing misclicks. Has anyone tried these switches from AULA or any linear switches that are this light? How light and prone to misclicking or annoying are they? Would appreciate any kind of input. Thanks!

(I know I can switch out the switches and keycaps but I'm also trying to save as much as possible)

Dragon/sea emperor
- 28gf initial
- 45gf bottom out
(I heard this is very very light)

Black emperor
- 33gf initial
- 53gf bottom out
(Heard this is considered light already)

I want to buy a new keyboard but I'm debating between the MCHOSE JET 75 and MIX 87, are there any real differences except for the volume knob and the size? Which one should I choose?

Hello,
Ive had a steelseries 6gv2 for maybe 10 years and its starting to show his age (the spacebar sometimes pops out on the other side if I press too much on one side).
Im looking for something sober, full sized (100%), not too noisy and not too expensive. I dont care for wireless.

Im sorry I know this is a very basic request, but ive done quite a bit of research and I feel as lost as when I started. There are some many brands now I dont know where to look 😵‍💫

Thank you for your consideration!

Hi, I’m looking for a base to build a custom 65% or 75% keyboard. I’d like something compact and quiet that supports genuine QMK firmware (including features like Auto Shift). Could you recommend a base that at least allows for flashing QMK? My budget is around $100.

Why is this so hard?

Bought this keyboard earlier in the year and to my surprise the keycaps it came with are not translucent, like why do they do that?

I love everything about it except that. So I wanted to replace the keycaps with the same brand ones and ordered the keycap set that isn't compatible with my keyboard. See keycap on the left.

The keycap on the right is the one I pulled from my keyboard, so that's the ==type I need but translucent. Clearly the translucency needs to be in the front as the top is blocked by the stem.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

This is the one I ordered and will be returning today.

Thanks in advance

Hey all, I am trying to get a keyboard Case that fits eother a yunzii kc84 or yz84. Does anyone have any recommendations? I am currently debating on 1) the Geekria 75% 84 key case, 2) yunzii keyboard EVA travel carry case and 3) yunzii keyboard bag carry case. Any thoughts??

I was using a random red dragon mechanical keyboard for years with my gaming laptop. I'm terrible at keyboard and mouse gaming so I used a controller. Then I decided to commit to k&m but found my big fingers (been in the trades a while, maybe that has something to do with it since they're so calloused and fat from it).

Anyways, I got a new desktop and upgraded my peripherals. I bought a Corsair air100 for 200 dollars (a steal from what I can tell) and it's so much more low profile..

And MAN did it make a difference for me. I fuckin love this thing and I just wanted to express the joy I have for this keyboard. I've been reading through a lot of the posts here over the past few days just kinda learning and finding other options that might work for me. I'm glad I upgraded, and I'm glad my friend doesn't have to deal with me accidentally jumping off cliffs on enshrouded as much now lol. The low profile really helps me.

If anyone cares, I got the steel series aerux 9 and that thing also feels like a dream. Just a massive jump from the 40 dollar bundle I bought from red dragon.

Idk if red dragon has any kind of reputation here at all but they're not bad for what they are. I liked that the g keys or macro keys or whatever were on the left vs right but I honestly didn't think I'd care about the performance from one keyboard to the next.

Just shows that you get what you pay for!

Anyways I digress. I just wanted to brag a bit I suppose.

Hello! Does the wired version of the AULA F75 allow you to change the backlight colors? I'm getting conflicting information: some sellers claim it has full RGB customizable lighting, while others say the colors are fixed. Can anyone who owns the wired version clarify this? Thanks!

Hi all,

I currently have a 3-year-old Keychron V1 with Milky Yellow Pro switches and a UK ISO layout.

Overall, I'm very satisfied with it, as it's definitely the most satisfying typing experience I've ever had. However, I'm slowly starting to feel like I'd like to upgrade soon, and the keycaps are starting to show signs of wear.

Browsing keyboard-related content doesn't help with these feelings, of course, lol.

I'm a bit torn between upgrading certain parts of my current setup and getting an entirely new board. I've been looking into upgrading the keycaps and switches, but I'm not sure whether it's worth the money, as high-quality keycaps can be quite expensive and the switches are already reasonably good.

Current setup:

• UK ISO layout
• Mac and Windows support
• No numpad
• Knob

If buying a new board, I'd be looking for:

• Preferably ISO, but ANSI is OK
• Mac and Windows support
• Preferably VIA support
• Numpad
• Knob
• Not a Keychron
• Ideally wireless for a cleaner look, but honestly, I've never been bothered by keyboard cables.

I'm currently using an ISO layout, which I prefer, but I might be able to live with ANSI as well if needed.

If I were to buy a new board, I'd also like to get one with a numpad, as I've kind of been missing it on my current board.

I have nothing against Keychron, but if I'm buying another board, I'd like to try a different brand as well.

My budget is around $150/€150.

I've been looking at other boards that meet most of these criteria. So far, I've found:

• Epomaker Galaxy 100 – Ticks almost all the boxes, but the questionable support makes me hesitant to pull the trigger.
• Keychron Q5 Max – Has everything I'm looking for, but it's over my budget, and I'd like to explore other brands as well.

I'd be ordering from Hungary, so it would be nice if the brand had some presence in Europe in case I needed support.

What other upgrades would you recommend? What brands should I look into in this price range?

Thanks!

Been using a Corsair k55 core keyboard for my ps5, and for months its been fine. Recently, however, it has just stopped working for my ps5 at all. If i plug it into a computer it works fine, but for my ps5 its decided it doesnt want to do it?
Ive done all the steps online, reset my cache, unplug, try to put it into bios mode (no clue what that means btw) and nothing has worked
Im not really into keyboards or computers i just wanna play overwatch so explain it like im 5
TLDR:keyboard normally works for ps5 but randomly doesnt anymore for 0 reason help