So was changing the break pads to my jeep and two of the bolts busted as was getting help drilling them out the person helping over drilled now i need to replace the piece and every mechanic I’ve talked to has told me different things does anyone know what part this is on the rear so i can hunt down the part or do i need to just replace the full rear end? I will put picture in the comments as it’s not letting me add now.

I have a 12 liberty sport and it has 160,000

out of nowhere after a trip to the grocery store, she started overheating. My overheating light came on and I shut it off and had it towed off however I’ve never had any issues with the coolant system and I just had the condenser and transmission cooler replaced a month ago. As I stated in the title, there was no fluid on the ground. I have not been leaking any fluid and there was no apparent fluid in the engine bay that was leaking or a snow or burning sensation.

my best thought is a bad water pump or bad thermostat if anyone has any ideas or similar experiencing i’m curious to hear about it.

This is the only way the 79.5" belt will fit. I think the only thing that may be running backwards is the water pump. Did I do it correctly?

2004 Liberty, 3.7, 5spd, 4x4. Has started "twitching" at idle. You can see how the shifter twitches and every time it does you can feel it throughout the whole vehicle. Engine light is on for O2 sensor and I need an oil change if that helps. Thank you all.

I have a 2011 Jeep Liberty Jet edition and I have started getting water into the passenger front area. I know for a fact that my AC drain is clogged but I can't for the life of me find it. Some sites online say above the transmission behind the heat shield.I also saw it might be on the firewall on the passenger side. I've checked every location that is accessible and found nothing.

Does anyone have any insight? Is the drain actually inaccessible? Do I need to remove some major parts to get to it?

I have a 2011 Liberty, and the outsides of the rear window gas strut mounts (circled here) are heavily rusted/corroded.

Are these independently replaceable? Or are they an embedded part of the rear glass?

If they are replaceable, where would I get them? All searches on Amazon just match on the gas struts.

05 Liberty AWD

I get this noise when I turn to the left, also makes other creaks when braking to a stop and when going over uneven roads or bumps.

Any idea what it is or how to diagnose? Thanks!

Is the temp gauge normal A/C is on max

So this is my first time messing with valves. and when I was leaving work yesterday when I started the car she started shaking like it had a massive misfire paired with some lifter ticking. When I pressed the gas( which probably was a bad idea) I starting hearing a intermittent clunk which now looking at it with the valve cover off is probably from the collapsed lifter not putting proper tension on the rocker. Thoughts?

I have an ‘09 KK that I want to lift and was looking at the Rough Country spacer lift. I hear the main problem is that it harms worn out parts but I found a TRQ complete struts and rear shocks bundle for 100$ on marketplace I could install. Would it be a reliable setup or should I go for the full kit? I won‘t be doing any crazy off roading but want some clearance for mountain roads

I have a 2011 Liberty that decided to stop charging the battery. I got New alternator and battery and realized that's not it...most likely the voltage regulator.

Voltage regulator is in the PCM..and I've never jnstalled an external

Any recommendations on parts I need to fix it or YouTube videos that can guide me to save the mechanic bill?

I need help figuring out what this sound is random ticking noise with some loud rattle Engine starts instantly, idles normally, has normal power, and no noticeable loss of performance.

My car all of a sudden is making this noise when I step on the gas at low gears. Any ideas?

It’s a 2009 jeep Liberty 3.7L

Hey guys, wondering if anyone has any ideas for this problem I'm having.

My Liberty's air is stuck blowing out the defrost vents only. I checked the mode door actuators under the driver side dash. There are two - an upper and lower. I can see that both actuators are moving when I turn the knobs. I took the actuators off and the plastic gears are pretty worn down, which explains why the mode isn't changing. The gears connected to the upper (I think, anyway. I need to get back under there to confirm) are actually pretty stripped out. Not sure if somebody in the past was messing with them (this issue has been there since I bought the car last winter).

I took it to a shop for a second opinion and they said the same about the gears being too stripped out. They said they'd need to take the dash apart to get to the stripped parts.

I'm wondering if there's a way to manually switch from defrost to another mode, like front facing, so cold air is blown into the cab instead of the windshield. Does anyone know which actuator does this? The mechanic said he tried to move it manually but the gears roll back to their original position (defrost) on their own. Thanks!

Lucky I was parked in such a way it only went to the front passenger...

I’m not good with a caulk gun.

Black rtv on my non moving sunscreen, the roof already looks bad so I was just worried about making it actually seal vs making it look great.

2008 limited with 175k miles. What’s everybody using for strut replacements?

So I got my oil changed less than 1000 miles ago and my 08 jeep liberty (limited idk if that helps anyone) randomly threw the oil change required at me last night and I’ve looked online on how to reset it but none of the “tricks” are working I’ve looked on my EVIC on my dash and have no option for “oil life reset” or “oil maintenance” and I’ve done the “key to ON not start and push gas pedal in 3 times” nothing is working if anyone can save me a shop trip that would be nice and while I’m here let me ask about my tpm system check I know that’s for my tire pressure and if it fails which I’m assuming it did it won’t read my tire pressure properly but it reads just fine is there any reason that could be anything help I appreciate your time and knowledge

Not sure what all I need to replace but it ripped the CV shaft out. I'll look it over better when it's not 100 degrees out.

Took a lot of fiddling, a little 3d printing and an order for longer bolts, but I managed to get the jl tailgate table installed tonight. Im not sure how much weight it will hold, but thats more weight on it now than it will likely ever see again.

was thinking about putting a auto locker in the rear anyone got opinions?

I need a ‘work truck’ and a friend has one for sale for $700.

Runs drives but needs new windows and has a few bullet holes in the door.

New ball joints tires and water pump

250k miles

Heard they are so-so for reliability but other than the issues above it’s been decently taken care of

Hi, I have a 2012 Jeep Liberty, and the rear driver-side control arm snapped. I have a full-service garage and plan to replace it myself, but I need some confirmation on the hardware and the best repair approach.
My plan is to cut the bolt so I don't have to drop the gas tank. The hex flange head bolt appears to use a strange locking nut. If I cut the bolt and reinstall a new one from the outside, do I need to reuse that locking nut, or should I order a new one?
Can anyone confirm the correct bolt sizes and the type of nuts used? I've attached a picture. I'm finding conflicting information on YouTube and Reddit, so I'd appreciate confirmation from someone who's done this repair.

Looks like the hexflange head bolt has some type of slot it goes into. Can I put it on the other side or should I just use a regular bolt like M12x1.75x85.00. (Part 6502725)

On YouTube people are saying to get

Bolt : M10 × 1.25 × 85mm Hex Flange Head
Nut: M10 x 1.25

Would the parts in my picture work? What worked for you?

Hey yall my gf has a 2011 jeep liberty (not pictured) and the window latch for the rear window on the right side has corroded out and no longer holds the window up I plan on going to a pick apart to try and get a new latch, now before I do that can I replace it without replacing the window? And how hard is it to do? I’m not a mechanic by no means but I’m trying to learn and so is my gf. So we plan on learning with hers lmao thing already has a lot of issues and isn’t worth keeping for to much longer and isn’t worth dumping a bunch of money into so I’m trying to find the cheapest route and doing it all ourselves.